FLRN

harrison_wintergreen

how much money are we talking about here? on the one hand, I get it and sympathize with the goal. on the other hand, the dollar amount matters. if you have $5,000 in this savings account, the difference between 3% and 4% will be about $50/year. not a life-changing sum. I know people who burn $10,000 worth of brain calories to get $500 worth of interest yield and credit card rewards per year. it seems like a wasted effort, a very stressful hobby with spreadsheets. they could earn more cash with an overtime shift every month, but seem to enjoy gaming the system and feeling clever. so keep things in perspective. but for all I know you have half a million cash and 1%/year will be a substantial difference, in which case go nuts. ETFs with "collateralized loan obligations" and "floating rate debt" are not guaranteed and have a more risk and potential tax complexity than HYSA. but they are relatively stable and tend to have a price that hovers in a certain range over the long-run. the yields can be attractive. JAAA has a ~5% yield, JBBB has higher risk CLOS with a 7% yield. FLRN has a yield in the 4-5% range. for a few examples.

rackoblack

Keep DCA'ing, with same or larger amount. Put the balance in something that will beat inflation safely - T-Bills, maybe some in PULS, FLRN, SKOR - the ETFs are easier to trade in/out of when you need that capital (share prices don't rise much, they just throw off dividends, so no CG tax worries). You don't say whether it's in a taxable or tax-advantaged fund...

rackoblack

You can find some bond alternatives about as safe as that (PULS, FLRN) to boost your return slightly. You don't say how much you already have in and going into retirement accounts. If those aren't maxed yet, use this to do so. If after that change there's still more than half of the 250k left after 10 years, that's not enough, do more. In that case, start putting it into VT. If your broker can automate it, quarterly or monthly. You also don't say if you own a home or want to. If not and you want a home, this will more than cover a down payment. Statistically, I've seen it declared that lump sum is slightly better success rate than DCA. I'd rather go with the less stressful and safer route of DCA. Don't take longer than a few years to get it all in. I always say it's better to have some investments on the taxable side, especially if FIRE is a goal at all.

rackoblack

Keeping 10% or more cash or cash equivalent is important for active traders who are researching daily to find the next buy out there. That's not most investors, by a long shot. Put it in an investment. If you want it to preserve value or think stocks are overvalued right now, SGOV, FLRN, PULS are good options. If you want it to grow aggressively (with more risk of downside), VT or VTI. You've always got credit cards (not carrying a balance obviously) to use immediately and give you a full month or so to raise the funds by selling something.

rackoblack

FLRN and PULS are great options as well. ETFs, so they close quickly when you need to reapply those funds elsewhere, and the share price barely budges so minimal or no LTCG when you do.

rackoblack

SCHD is a decent hedge against the tech heaviness of VOO. If you want non-equities, PULS, FLRN or SKOR maybe.

WittyFault

FLRN is a good dividend ETF that pays monthly. Look at the chart on a 1 year scale and tell me what you notice.

rackoblack

I use PULS and FLRN for my bond position. I'm only 10% bonds and am already retired.

Soft2CT

I'm half SGOV, half FLRN FLRN should make 0.5%+ more with low principal risk (lost 0.6% in 2022)

Desoto178

I have an account at Marcus, but all of my Treasuries are bought through Treasury Direct. I like the convenience of the auto reinvestment. My iBonds are there also. The website may be antiquated but so am I. Ha! I also have positions in SGOV, TFLO, FLRN, and USFR as cash positions inside various brokerages.

_WhatchaDoin_

$BLRN, not $FLRN, but both indexed on floating rate. ​ $BLRN might be riskier, if only due to the signifcantly higher yield.

Sugamaballz69

Long floating rate bonds: USFR, FLRN

gti17

what you're looking for is Floating-rate bonds. quick google search yields these 4 tickers. market value is stable since, well, it's duration neutral ​ iShares Floating Rate Note Fund (ticker: FLOT) Van Eck Market Vectors Investment Grade Floating Rate Bond ETF (ticker: FLTR) SPDR Barclays Capital Investment Grade Floating Rate ETF (FLRN) Pacific Asset Enhanced Floating Rate ETF (FLRT)

GoodAtStocks

In some cases, the stock is just a fund that owns predictable bonds or other assets which will never change in value. Like FLRN which just holds which is basically equivalent to a floating rate note which is barely fluctuates in price. The share price will always reflect the value of the underlying assets which in some cases, will never change unless the $ becomes worthless and therefore if you buy them, you’re basically buying something that everyone in the market knows the value of 1 year from now.