VUSB
Vanguard Ultra-Short Bond ETF Shares
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Why does the graph of some bonds look like a sawtooth wave while others don't?
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Why t-bill ladders with options like VMFXX and VUSB available?
Where is a decent place to park cash these days?
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Plus, "cash" is usually not specifically cash, its short term bonds type stuff. VUSB will likely return over 5% this year. I have about 70% in that, and 30% spread across international etfs and SCHD. Will likely do fine this year, and have money ready to put in on big dips
I haven't seen anyone really answer how BND works for your portfolio.. all of those "Bond etfs" just pay a monthly dividend. BND yearly dividend is around 4% so you get 12 payments a year that will equal a roughly 4% return on your investment. If you look at long vs short bond etfs, you will see how rate changes affect their prices. EDV for example - vanguard long term bond - the price REALLY changes with rate changes. Back in 2021 it was $177 a share, now it is in the $60s. If rates go up, price goes down. That's because all ETF dividend payments are a constant, so if rates for the underlying bonds in EDV go from 2% to 4% for example, and the dividend payment is $2 a year, then the price will move accordingly with the rate change. In this example when rates are 2%, the price of EDV would be $100 a share (so the $2 yearly dividend is 2% of the price). When rates go up to 4%, the price would drop to $50/share so that the $2 in yearly dividend is now 4% of the share price. Short term bond ets dont move much in price, take VUSB (vanguard ultra short bond) as an example. The price since 2021 has moved between $49-$50 and rates have been around 4% the whole time, as you'd expect for short term bonds. I personally am holding a large amount of VUSB right now for the 4% return.
Exactly. The "risks" that were becoming apparent were crazy ass tariffs and who knows what else to come. The amount of anti-US sentiment generated is part of the fallout. No need to accept these risks. I went 70% VUSB (short term bonds) and 30% spread across international (IVLU and a couple others) and some SCHD and one or two homeowners ball stocks (ASTS, which i have been holding). VUSB will likely return 5%+ this year, so 70% getting 5% return, plus whatever from the 30% equities, is not nothing. "Cash" does not mean 0 return
I'm using VUSB. Slightly higher dividend I believe but they are close.
So, most people sitting out are not putting their money in mason jars and burying it in the backyard. They (me included) have it in things like VUSB (5-6% return likely this year) and potentially some other things that may return similarly. And also european etfs. So if the market does go up 10-15% by chance, I won't be maxing out returns (I never seem to, anyway regardless), but I'll take my 6% over the risk of losing 30%
I don’t think you took a look at the holdings or exposure breakdown. Got to read more than a summary on yahoo. 5.7% is the emerging market exposure. This fund is mostly MBS or other collateralized securities, hence the low risk. Has over 3000 holdings and very short terms. Lots of reasons the risk is low. For comparison BND risk score is 19/100 BINC is 10/100 VUSB is 3/100
Shorter duration bonds, VUSB averages around 1 year duration, have less interest rate risk, and less risk in general.
I sold all, but reallocation to a (very) conservative blend with the equity portion being much more international/european value. But about half in VUSB (which gets 5-6% stable return). If things keep dropping i will buy back in slowly
Yeah, I'm moving everything into VUSB until things show some improvement.
I'm like 95% in VOO and VUSB. But that other 5% is a Goddamn clown show
With $200K in cash and a short-term horizon (a couple of years), your best strategy is to balance liquidity, safety, and yield. Here are some solid options: 1. High-Yield Savings or Money Market Accounts (4-5%) Fully liquid and FDIC-insured (if at a bank). Some accounts offer 5%+ APY right now. Good for keeping some funds accessible while earning something. 2. Treasury Bills (T-Bills) (5%+ APY, risk-free, short-term) 3, 6, or 12-month T-bills through TreasuryDirect or a brokerage. No state/local tax on interest (big plus in high-tax states). Roll them over if rates stay attractive. 3. Brokered CDs (5%+ APY, liquid if sold early) Higher rates than bank CDs. You can sell them before maturity (potential loss if rates rise). FDIC-insured up to $250K per bank. 4. Ultra-Short-Term Bond Funds (4-6%) Funds like JPST (JPMorgan Ultra-Short Income ETF) or VUSB (Vanguard Ultra-Short Bond ETF) offer higher yields than savings/CDs. More liquid than a multi-year private equity investment. 5. Short-Term Corporate Bond ETFs (5-7%) SPSB (SPDR Portfolio Short Term Corp. Bond) or VCSH (Vanguard Short-Term Corp. Bond) can provide a better yield than T-bills with some risk. Not FDIC-insured, but relatively stable. Best Strategy? If you need a mix of safety, liquidity, and decent returns: $50K in high-yield savings/MMF (for liquidity). $100K in T-Bills or Brokered CDs (safe, 5%+). $50K in short-term bond ETFs (slightly higher yield). This keeps you flexible while earning 5-6%+ without locking up your cash for years. If rates stay high, you can roll into new T-bills/CDs. Would you prefer more liquidity or are you willing to take some risk for higher returns?
Thank you! VUSB is interesting - I've always been quite aggresive with my investing and know quite little about bonds. For reference, I was looking at VBTLX - it looks like the distribution of bond type is quite the same, but I guess the devil is in the details. The differences in performance are stark! I know nothing about how one can in invest in private equity. I always assumed I'm not wealthy enough and I don't have the social circles to get word of mouth recommendations. What do you suggest to look at?
My bond strategy is a second tier emergency fun in I series Bonds. Then I have multiple bond Etfs: BND, VGIT, VGSH, VUSB. I switch those four around and have a duration I am comfortable with. Having multiple ETF's makes it easier to Tax loss harvest. My strategy is not the recommended strategy by many people, but it works for me.
I repeat. Why the fuck is VUSB so negative.
Can anyone explain to me why VUSB suddenly went super negative? I thought this POS was supposed to be basically a BOND style ETF
It will return dividends regardless of the face value of the fund. The SEC yield is 4.24%, so approximately 8 months. If you don't want the duration risk, buy VUSB instead.
Yeah, I don't have VUSXX available but it looks like VUSB is. I might start making use of that.
Yes. VUSB, BND,and TLT in the above post are all bond ETFs.
The last 5 years were an extremely rare situation- interest rates rose incredibly rapidly, which caused bond valuations to drop. The past 4 years were the worst 4 years for the bond market in US history. The last time that was comparable was the 70's/early 80's when interest rates climbed quickly. The reason the last 5 years were so bad was because since interest rates/yields were so low at the start(~1-1.5%), and as a result, the interest they earned was not enough to offset the price declines from rising rates. This is no longer true, with most bonds yielding more than 4% to maturity. It's worth noting that the duration of the bond dictates its sensitivity to interest rates. You can buy short term bonds like VUSB, and it pretty much won't go down much at all, but the downside is if interest rates go down, so will its future returns. If you buy a long term bond fund, like TLT, you have a huge amount of interest rate risk, but you lock in long term returns. Long term bonds are usually inversely correlated to stocks, so holding them helps balance out a portfolio. BND is a diversified bond fund that holds all durations. It's worth noting that past performance does not mean future returns. Given the fundamentals, it's actually quite likely that bonds can outperform stocks over the next 5 years.
Taxable(~$200k) which also doubles as emergency fund: ~10% domestic stock ~25% foreign stock(I hold most foreign stock in taxable for tax efficiency reasons, foreign tax credit) ~30% short term(money market/treasury bills) ~30% bonds/cds(<5 years so short term) 5% other- I think this is my preferred stock Retirement accounts(~$250k): 64% domestic stock 15.7% foreign stock 16.3% bonds 3.8% short term/other HSA(~$10k)- all VUSB(short term bond, basically money market), Now that its grown I might start putting a small portion of it into the market. I'm also 28. 100% stocks has worked well the past 10 years and if its for retirement its probably fine, but I'd argue at current valuations and bond yields, a 90:10 portfolio or even 80:20 portfolio would have less volatility and wouldn't impact returns much.
>Is there a way to take out money tax-free from the money you make from investing? Only if its used for a qualified medical expense. Paying a hospital bill, or a prescription? Sure. Paying for a new car? No, unless you have a really creative lawyer to justify that its medically necessary. >Are there penalties for taking money out of an investment too early or before a certain period of time? Only penalty is if you withdraw the funds for a non-medical purpose. It's a 20% penalty + taxes. If you are at least 65 years old, you can withdraw for non-medical purposes without a penalty, but there's still taxes. >I know it is there in case of an emergency but I would like to invest so of it to try and make some more money. Does anyone have any tips, suggestions advice for someone in my position? So consider that stocks have risks- so if you might need to pull the money out for a hospital bill, expensive test, etc, that could be risky if your investments are down 70% at the same time you have a bill you need to pay. Personally I invest my HSA in safe investments like VUSB. I get about 5.5-6% annual returns with very little risk. Yes, I'd probably make more in the long term with stocks. But I don't see the point. If I end up with a $5 Million HSA because I made huge gains in the stock market, what am I going to do with it? So I keep the stocks for my Retirement accounts.
Not to mention that there are ways to beat JEPQ doing on your own. One such approach is a combination of ultra-short-term bonds such as VUSB and writing PUT options.
I always have a small cash position in my IRA’s to take advantage of any downturns, but right now my cash is earning nothing. Does anyone have an opinion on keeping that cash in something like SGOV, VUSB, or CLIP?
You just answered your own question with stuff like BIL. If you want more yield you have to increase credit or duration risk. You can go with a "prime" money market fund or ultra short bond ETF like VUSB that invests in corporate debt. The premium for accepting that risk is basically nothing though. You can go longer duration and if rates go the way the market expects you will get higher yield in the short term from appreciation. Of course rates could go the other way so they aren't "very stable, no volatility," the best you can do is treasuries / money markets / very short term bonds and they don't pay much over 5%.
I don't know any short term AA-+, vanguard has VUSB/VCSH but they hold some A/BBB. Alternatively there are various treasury ETFs like VGSH, or SGOV/BIL for 1-3 month tbills.
You buy a bond fund that meets your duration (When do you need the income?). If you're retired, you consider VUSB, BSV, BND, and something long. That applies to normal times for fixed income. The federal bank, responding to inflation and its effect on the economy causes uncertainty.
Average duration of VUSB is 1 year. The fund has a pretty broad mandate of between 0 to 2 years which is probably why Vanguard calls it an ultra short. But you're right and I agreed - I like your description of "shorter than short" as a better description. Ultimately - I expect some of it is subjective and more a guideline than my use of the description "standard". It's like market cap - what's really nanocap and microcap? Some people just lump it all in as smaller than small cap.
> Ultra short is a standard investing term to mean that the duration of the debt is less than a year. VUSB is "Ultrashort" but has 1 to 2 years maturity.
Short Bonds are 2-years or so. "Ultra Short" is 1-year or less. I've seen 3-months, 6-months, and even 12-month "Ultrashort" funds. Like ICSH (6-months) or VUSB (1 to 2 years).
SGOV has a duration of 0.10 years. It has essentially zero interest rate sensitivity and essentially zero default risk. Hence, any price growth you see is coupon payments, which is paid out monthly via dividends. This forms the "sawtooth" you're referring to. SPTS has a duration of 1.85 years. It has interest rate sensitivity more than its coupon payments. Hence, you'll see price variation exceeding the coupon payments, resulting in a less consistent pattern. VUSB has a duration of 0.90 years. It has minimal, but non-zero interest rate sensitivity **and** has default risk, because it is comprised of corporate bonds. So beyond the interest rate sensitivity, the price will go up and down based on investor belief that the underlying bonds may default. That tends to be reasonably correlated to the stock market - companies that are less profitable and lose stock market value also tend to be the companies that might not pay their bonds.
VUSB and collect monthly. Ain’t much but it’s honest. Vanguard ultra short bond, ETF.
you should not. Stay short BIL or SHV or VUSB (if you want to mix corp too) people buying TLT bet that the long terme inflation will go back to 2% thus TLT will jump....this will not happen. Sorry....
I don't really know much about fixed income so bear in mind that some of the nuances are outside my knowledge and experience. ​ >I had come across this, my impression was that the risk was in line with junk bonds but perhaps slightly less. My understanding is that most junk bonds are unsecured notes. ​ >Also I'm a little confused on why duration matters with a bond fund. I saw that you posted similar question yesterday - did you understand the response. Funds are basically constant duration so it's like a perpetual bond ladder which ends up looking like an average duration and maturity. Bear in mind that there are target maturity funds as well. So with your 2 year horizon - you could use target maturity funds - like the ones from Invesco (Bulletshares) and Blackrock (iBonds). ​ >Why would someone invest in VUSB or VCIT vs VCLT for example? Or UTWO vs SGOV? The differences are in average duration and credit quality. ​ >would it make sense to dedicate a small portion of my 2 year investment strategy to equities? Like maybe 10-25%, while the rest is in fixed income? I don't like to provide an opinion on something like that. Because it's mostly down to your own personal financial situation and risk tolerance.
My HSA through my employer forces me to use TD Ameritrade so I don't have a choice(other than getting 0.01% from the HSA). I just invest my cash in VUSB. Only cash they rip me off on is the extra money that won't fit into shares.
VUSB is almost an equivalent to a high interest savings account except it’s money in a brokerage account instead. Its price varies almost not at all and it’s paying about 3.8% dividend yield. (Although the prospectus warns you there is technically a risk of loss). With zero transaction fees I park money there sometimes if I haven’t figured out what do with it yet or am waiting to dollar cost into an index.
If you put 100% of your investment into VOO or VTI that would be a fine investment strategy on its own. If you have money you really need in the short term (months) and can’t afford any losses; a high interest savings account (Ally bank is a good one), treasury bond (short term bonds paying almost 5%), or VUSB is a good place to put it.
what treasury give you more than 5%. Best i saw are short term <1Y with 4.5% like VUSB or SHV etfs ?
Personally I like VUSB. It's a short term bond fund of <52 weeks. There's a small amount of volatility due to interest rates but as long as the US doesn't default on its debt it shouldn't be too risky.
For those who receive a meager rate from their broker, there are other choices. I personally have VUSB which is a short-term bond fund. Its current yield is more than 4%, and it doesn't experience much in the way of price fluctuations due to the short duration of its holdings.
For TFLO, you can’t know ahead of time, it holds floating rate debt which means the interest rate changes as interest rates change. You could guess what short term interest rates will be over the next 3-6 months, and that would be close to your actual yield (before the expense ratio is subtracted off). VUSB has a duration of 1 year, which is too long of a duration for you to hold for only 3-6 months. Over such a short time frame relative to the duration, increases in interest rates can cause the NAV to drop enough to wipe out the interest you would’ve earned. For a 3-6 month timeframe, I would either use a HYSA, or buy individual bonds expiring when you need the money.
I see. I was looking at 30 day sec yield on BND. The money I’m using to buy the bond funds needs to be semi-liquid because I might need it within 10 years. VUSB still seems like the best choice for me.
BND has 4.5% yield to maturity minus 3bps expense ratio. VUSB has 5.3% yield to maturity minus 10bps, not double. And yes rates are expected to fall around a year from now.
VUSB is good if you're okay with very slight interest rate risk.
I would disagree slightly with VUSB as it carries too many corporate bonds for my liking if you want to be less correlated to the market. I think presently VUSB is holding 65% in corp bonds. Maybe something like SHV would be better but thats ultra short term like a few months duration.
If you want the money to sit for 5 years something like VGSH or SHY are pretty good, with durations a little less than 5 years. If you want something even shorter - less interest rate risk - ultrashort funds like VUSB or BIL are a good place to slightly beat out a money market fund by taking the slightest more risk. You won’t be able to beat a higher risk approach (if it even works) but you’re unlikely lose any money using short term just government bond funds.
> VUSB (30 day sec yield 4.57%) 5.4% yield to maturity. VUSB is 60% short-dated corporate paper. Its higher risk but should make more money (if rates stopped increasing).
Higher yield for one thing - both of those funds you listed look like 2.8% not 3, 4+. VUSB has also lost principal.
Given your uncertain timeline, you may just want to choose a money market mutual fund available at one of your brokers. You could also choose an ETF that holds short-term, high-quality debt like SGOV (virtually zero risk) or VUSB (very low risk).
That's not a good approach here. You're not buying a bond to hold to maturity - bond funds constantly cycle new bonds as old ones mature, so your interest rate will fluctuate, and with constant exposure to changes in principal value. You're not 'guaranteed' the SEC yield or anything like it. If you had bought VUSB around January, for example, the forward looking yield would have been under 1%. Not great, but still more than a lot of savings accounts were paying right then. But you'd have lost money YTD due to changes in the fund value. So you need to decide what kind of timeframe and risk level applies to this money. If you need it fully liquid and don't want risk, then a HYSA is still your best bet. If you want to bump the yield and think you can leave it alone for a period of time, you can look for a bond with a maturity date that matches your timeline. Maybe a T-bill, maybe a bullet fund, etc.
Question for /r/investing: How do you find reliable up-to-date info about ETF yields? With interest rates rapidly changing, I'm finding that the general aggregators (like Yahoo Finance) report very different information. Example: Vanguard's VUSB (ultra-short-term bond ETF) [shows 4.37%](https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/list/etfs?assetclass=fixed_income-maturity-short,fixed_income), while Yahoo finance [still shows 0.79%](https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/VUSB?p=VUSB&.tsrc=fin-srch). And Vanguard's fund info page for ETFs doesn't even list the yield on that page, only in the ETF comparison page I linked. And it doesn't give yields *at all* for international funds! So ... is there a reliable way to get this info accurately across all ETF? (Not sure if I should make a topic for this?)
Cash slowly turns into bonds as you go up the risk ladder. I'd say cash is best for 3-months and less. HYSA, Money Market, and BIL (US Treasury Bills fund) all are roughly the same in practice. FRN are also 3-month-like instruments. At 6-months of risk, you begin to open up to slightly higher interest rates. ICSH definitely makes more money than the short-term stuff. At 1-year of risk comes VUSB, 1-year Treasuries, and the like. Classic short-term bond funds, such as BSV, start at the 2.5 year duration or so. Then... > Mid term (4-7 years): bonds. Risk of loss, but with that timeline you should earn more than cash. This is a good way to describe typical bonds, such as the ETF BND. But keep in mind all the lower-duration funds that are available.
Easiest way is to buy an etf that hold these bonds. SGOV, VUSB, SHY, etc.
BSV, VUSB, ICSH, and my cash position is in SWVXX.
One month? MMF like VMFXX are probably your best bet. Maybe BIL, ICSH, and VUSB (least risky to most risky)
Yes. If 20% is too much for your risk tolerance, you might want a low risk ETF like VUSB.
VMFXX, ICSH, VUSB. Money Market funds, ultra-short duration bonds (6-months), and ultra-short duration bonds (1-year).
Low duration risk Higher yields Choose one. So two ways to get higher yields , one buy longer term bonds and expose yourself to more duration risk (will fall as rates rise) or two expose yourself to more credit risk (Non government bonds) For example VUSB is a vanguard fund with average maturity of around 1 year, and holds about 60% non government debt so its yield is just about 4% however as you can also see its lost about 1.2% for the year So its really about your holding time and how much risk you want to take, if you are going to only hold 1-2 months its very hard to beat SGOV If your holding time is maybe 1 year+ VUSB may return more but again you are exposed to more risk
> Planning on buying a house in 2023/2024 CDs and/or Treasury bonds. Ladder up so that you don't take too much interest rate risk, or buy a bond-fund since those are simpler. I'd suggest either VUSB or BSV.
VUSB gives you a bit higher interest rates because its pricing in future hikes, but has relatively low sensitivity to rate hikes due to its short duration.
Put your money in a competitive high-yield savings account / money market account. Definitely the "easiest", but you don't have much control. (The banks will be buying short-term treasuries behind the scenes). If you want to actually buy them, Treasury Direct will buy/sell bonds for you in the raw. This is difficult for various reasons, but I suggest you play with a few thousand bucks here. (Its safe, and personal experience with Treasury Direct is great, since it gives you insight into the raw bond market). In between are "bond funds", such as ICSH, VUSB, BND, etc. etc. Not as easy to use as a money-market/savings account, not as hard to use as the raw bonds.
I've been struggling to fully understand all "near cash" instruments, CDs and 1-years included. CDs are FDIC insured. Bonds, even 1-year bonds, **can** lose value. So CDs are "much much safer" (almost no way for you to "lose money"), while Bonds losing money is... well... take a look at this year. Each +.75 hike is a ~.75% loss on a 1-year bond. To reduce risk, people buy **ladders** of shorter bonds, ex: 6-month bonds. Except at this point, you're basically into "make your own CD" territory, which is nice (a bit higher rates), but still with the risk of losing a tiny bit of money on interest-rate hikes. ----------- It honestly sounds like you want either a money-market fund, high-yield savings account, or maybe a bond-fund. * High Yield Savings Accounts / Money Market -- Money Market loses the FDIC insurance, but otherwise acts almost identically to HYSA. You get ~2% from these today. * Money Market fund -- Almost the same, except from a brokerage. Sometimes come with a debit card but sometimes not. * Short term Bond Fund / ETF -- Ex: ICSH and VUSB focus on 1-year and shorter bonds. Though these are AAA-rated commercial paper instead of US Treasuries. ------------ IIRC, Savings accounts **must** invest into Treasuries, while Money Market is allowed to branch out into AAA-rated commercial paper. There's some minor differences like that. But these are all considered very safe instruments. Savings accounts are the safest, with FDIC insurance.
You really shouldn’t be investing in stocks with such a short time horizon. Best to stick with a high yield checking account, CDs, and maybe ultra-shirt bonds like VUSB.
30% gains don't do anything for me anymore. Has to be flat risk weeklys or long $VUSB. Nothing in-between.
It's only worthwhile doing this if you need access to your funds within the next few years to buy a house, car, or pay off a loan. Otherwise, you're trading fully liquid cash in a volatile market for an extra 1% gain. You're better off putting your money into $BSV or $VUSB.
* Series I bonds * JPST, VUSB, ICSH
There is a spectrum of risk. For bonds, here is a sampling of bond funds with ascending levels of risk: [SGOV](https://www.ishares.com/us/products/314116/ishares-0-3-month-treasury-bond-etf) < [VUSB](https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/etfs/profile/vusb) < [VGSH](https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/etfs/profile/vgsh) < [VGIT](https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/etfs/profile/vgit) < [BNDW](https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/etfs/profile/bndw)/[BIV](https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/etfs/profile/biv) < [BLV](https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/etfs/profile/blv)/[USHY](https://www.ishares.com/us/products/291299/ishares-broad-usd-high-yield-corporate-bond-etf) < [EDV](https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/etfs/profile/edv) < [TMF](https://www.direxion.com/product/daily-20-year-treasury-bull-bear-3x-etfs) SGOV is virtually risk-free because it invests in treasury bills with 3 months or less until maturity. It has neither interest rate risk nor credit risk. It has very little return now but when interest rates are higher, its returns will be higher. BLV has high interest rate risk, whereas USHY has high credit risk. TMF has *extremely* high interest rate risk, leveraged by derivatives. US Treasury savings bonds operate on a different plane because they're not marketable. When inflation is high right now, I-bonds are a great deal.
That only works for $10k/year though ($20k for couples). I think OP should go ahead and invest $10k in I bonds now, but it remains to be decided what to do with the remaining $90k. This is something I've been trying to figure out what to do as well. That mid term savings horizon is tough. Maybe some short/ultra short term bonds (VUSB)? They might get you 1.5% returns, a bit better than HYSAs.
Vanguard recently launch an ultra short bond fund, VUSB, I’ve considered for this exact purpose. As previously noted any yield with minimal risk is very rare. VUSB currently yields 0.67%, not great but better than their money market at 0.01%.
What do you consider cash? I’ve got about $3K in savings, $300 in checking, and about $25K in a combination of short and ultra short bond fund ETFs (BSV, VUSB) in my brokerage account that I can get my hands on in about two days. The credit cards have plenty of capacity to pay for whatever emergency. I think 6 months of living expenses in cash is overkill based on how credit cards can pay for about everything and I can easily cash out the bond funds to pay for the cards in full when the payment comes due and the bond funds are short term enough that, while they don’t make a lot of money, they don’t fluctuate so much that I worry that I’ll have to sell at a loss
Fair, but at least the underlying may appreciate with economic growth and pay dividends in SCHD, making up somewhat for the volatility. A bond ETF just sits there. Like my mom's money in VUSB (ultra-short bond, extremely risk-averse).