CD

Mung_Daddy

I don't know who old you are, so this advice might be moot, but still having 100k in assets put you far ahead of the majority of folks, put that into a safe CD or maybe just VOO/SPY and just let it ride, and you'll still be far ahead regardless of your mistakes, which hopefully you are learning from.

aesthetics4ever

The macro environment alone isn't necessarily positive for consumer discretionary stocks right now. In a K-shaped economy, Nike isn’t considered a premium brand, it's well below LULU, and you can see what’s happening there. Wait for the Fed to start cutting rates and consumer sentiment to improve before considering this sector. It's strange how retail traders focus on the CD sector while institutionals avoid it, except for niche names.

Leading_Economist279

Look at it this way. It wasn’t ever really your money. It was just paper in the wind. Easy come, easy go. You can cash out your $100k. Or, if you want to learn how to be an investor, cash out $80k and put in a CD, take some investment classes and study up and only play the market with the $20k. Or with only $10k with another $10k held aside for when the market crashes and you want to gamble on a quick recovery. That’s it. Thats your penance. Every additional penny you invest and play in the market should come from a small % of your earnings. That way you will move more slowly and deliberately. And if you lose, you still have $80k. If you win, it will take longer but you will have some great stories to tell. If you are a lucky bastard and make some good gains again, diversify! Keep in mind that you can lose your ass, all of us can, tomorrow. Nothing is promised in the market. It’s a metaphor for life. Don’t let the turkeys get you down either. Some losers enjoy kicking people when they are down. Stay kind - always, never stop learning, and keep your chin up. Love, mom.

Bravadette

I wonder how many CD's GTA 6 would require to install on console? I mean, having more and more CD's wouldnt be nearly as bad as having more and more storage servers... especially as next gen consoles come. wonder if there are alternatives

Pretend-Talk-9880

Wondered if I could get some friendly input on my Roth IRA. After about a week of looking, I opened a Fidelity account and set up a payment plan to automatically buy FRBVX (FID Freedom Index 2070 Investor CL) weekly. My job offers a 3% Simple IRA I can start January 2027 and I plan to do that also. For some backstory: I'm 22, freshly college graduated, and just started a corporate job. I plan to max out my Roth IRA and want to obviously have the most gains without the risk of losing everything. I have a CD with Raymond James and I dabbled a bit in stocks some years ago but truly don't really know anything about real investing. I just wondered if there was anyone who has experience in these Fidelity Freedom Funds or any other helpful input? Thank you so much!

NinjaTrader007

Thanks, I like this suggestion to have a rolling 2-3 year liquid fund that’s insulated from crashes and started integrating this into my plans by keeping a portion in bond ETFs like SGOV, VUSB and USFR while also keeping a 3, 5 and 7yr CD ladder. Most of the remaining stays invested long term in VT.

therealjerseytom

This is a no-brainer to sell the losers and TSLA for roughly zero net tax burden, *and put it into a 2-year CD* or similar. To take that sale and put it into a 100% US equity position, for a mere two-year time horizon, I say is absolutely reckless.

AcademicStandard3701

A CD account

fomoandyoloandnogrow

Op is CD Project Retarded

Sharp-Investment9580

You gotta remember over half of Reddit weren’t even adults in 2008. I have clients bringing up 2000 & 2008 weekly. I know ppl that sold out & never went back into the market. Those are the CD only people that would be better off with your local Edward jones A share advisor than doing nothing.

BarefootMarauder

Using the 4% rule as a general guideline (NOT a hard & fast rule), you could safely pull around $11,200/year from a portfolio of $280K without fear of running out over a ~30 year period. If you need to spend $1500/month, and you get $410/month from SSDI, you're still pulling more than that (~$13,080/yr). The 4% was recently updated to something like 4.6% now, which definitely gets you a little closer. The 4% rule is also based on the assumption that your portfolio is invested in the market at roughly a 60/40 split stocks to bonds. There are a lot of other variables and nuances to it, so I'm speaking generally. Putting all the money in CD's, HYSA's, or other cash-equivalent investments isn't going to cut it because you'd essentially just be keeping up with inflation. Growth comes with a certain amount of risk. If I was in your situation, I'd probably keep ~3 years worth of living expenses in cash-equivalents (a good MMF or a decent ETF like SGOV), and invest the rest in low-cost total market index funds such as VTI/VXUS or similar. Something like an 80/20 or 70/30 split -- that part is up to your comfort level with international investments. If the markets continue to do well, you can pull profits off the top for living expenses. If we go into a bear market, you can live off your cash bucket until things start to recover. But it gets a little dicey if we would go into an extended bear market that takes longer than 3 years to recover.

BarefootMarauder

>What I'm really stuck on is how to grow the remainder. It has to be stable because if I lose it I'm done. But also has to be more than CD or mutual fund interest so I can grow it and make this money last the rest of my life, (I'm 50). I also would like to reduce taxes draining any growth. Sounds like you're looking for a Unicorn. You left out a lot of important details such as how much the amount is that has to last the rest of your life, how much you *need* to spend annually just to survive, how much you'd *like* to spend annually, marital status, any other debts, etc. As for obtaining financial literacy quickly, that's a tall order. There are MANY aspects to it. For general personal finance stuff I usually recommend Clark Howard and Ramit Sethi. Both have books, podcasts, YouTube channels, and websites with tons of free content. For investing, I always recommend JL Collins and/or the Boglehead methodology. There's a Boglehead sub here on Reddit. For JL, search online for "JL Collins free stock series" and start reading on his website. He also has an excellent book I recommend, but it's totally optional. All the content is free for the asking on his website. JL has also been interviewed on several podcasts if you search for his name.

DA2710

And I’m telling you, you are wrong. And my trading will not wipe me out. The world has changed a bit. You have to as well. Yes you are correct I did over assume that your criticism means that you are a savings CD/index player.

FalcosLiteralyHitler

imagine if you had put this in a mutual fund or even a CD or savings acc instead of gambling it shit a 3% savings would have netted you like 25k in the same timespan and most banks offer higher rates than that with the balance you'd carry in it

PhotonicsIsFried

I got in like 3 months ago, serves it's purpose as something better than a CD

Doublee7300

The biggest rate-hike indicator was my Credit Union introducing a promo 50 month CD (locks your money at a higher fixed interest rate). Obviously my CU sees an opportunity to lock down members funds before rates go up

xxxMarilee

I've been occupied with other stuff and just looked at my port and my long watch list. WTF is going on with Sandisk and other memory stocks? Earlier they were popping. Maybe we both ought to just buy a 3.5% CD and forget about this shit.

First-Hotel4694

why does everybody seem to look at CD's and bonds when looking for steady returns and safe investments. Me I buy dividend stocks such as VZ paying 5.64% and ET paying 6.35% currently. Sure the price can do down but if it does your still getting the same dividend it just shows up as a higher yield. In my case I bought these stocks when they were down so I have capital gains as well as dividends. I have many others as well and live off of the dividends leaving the capital gains for the future. Unless your planning on spending your capital to me dividend stocks make much more sense as the yield is usually higher. Just be careful and do your research before investing as some are high yielders for a reason you won't like and make sure you know the tax consequences of some of the dividend stocks as they are different.

Life_Standard6209

CD Projekt Red. Bought ~2020 (?). Cyberpunk 2077. Crashed. Christmas release was a disaster. Sold. Lost a few k. Would NOW 6y later be break-even. GTA6? Value trap. Don't.

fred_cheese

Keep what you realistically would need to cough up immediately or within 4 days in a regular savings account. The rest in a HYSA, or short term CD/Money Market.

KweenieQ

The number 1 thing we had to figure out was how to set up operational cash flow out of our market investments into cash or high-yield near-cash. (We've been retired for 2 years.) How you do that depends on your living expenses, cash income you expect from non-market sources (pension, annuity, SS), and how effective you are at staging market assets to supplement. Whether your market assets are in tax-deferred accounts matters too, because tax is withheld on the way to cash. The more non-market income you have coming in, the more flexibility you have in equity allocation. But you haven't said you have any, at least not at first, so I'm going to assume that your initial retirement income will come from savings and investments. That implies something most like your option A, with your 30 being staged closest to cash. BTW, interest risk on a 10-year CD is high. Compress your ladder to at least 5 years. (I compress mine to 2 years, switching to bonds for maturities up to 5-7 years.)

babyd42

Average CD investor

Bravadette

Bring back CD's in cereal boxes

pokeverse-3645

I think Moderna is undervalued, and have chips on the table, but would caution building a thesis on the basis of Keyteuda. Keytruda costs a dozen dollars to produce per dose, and navigated a complex indication expansion that was simplified by the underlying biology. The neoadjuvant vaccines cost over 200k to produce today. They require whole expme sequencing of tumors, precise antigen selection, and synthesis of a personalized mRNA based vaccine with this information. As things stand, this is closer to CD19 autologous CAR-T than Keytruda. The big benefit over CAR-T is a clearer path to indication expansion, as there's already hopeful results in PDAC from BioNTech. However, it remains that cancer vaccines are sort of N-of-1 drugs. Moderna is also a generational bag fumbler in terms of how they handled the COVID Vax windfall. So there's definitely risk.

TearfulVestige

Emergency fund, we keep 12 months. Mid-40s, double income low 200s. About 2 months are cash, 2 months in money market, 4 months in T-bill ladder,, 4 months in CD ladder. The reason is liquidity - cash is immediate, money market takes one day to cash out, TBills roll iver every 4 weeks, CDs are maturity-fixed..it's a bit of work, once a week I check in on the T-Bills and schedule new purchases or repurchases, and also check in on CDs.

MagnesiumKitten

BBC Just how much trouble is Canada's economy in? 27 June 2026 Prime Minister Mark Carney has promised to reboot Canada's economy, building it into the "strongest in the G7". He has spent weeks travelling overseas in the last year seeking to drum up business interest in Canada as an investment destination. But there is no doubt the country's economy is struggling, and from tariffs on certain industries to younger Canadians struggling to find work or buy a home, some Canadians are feeling the pain more than others. 1. Technical recession - but it could be worse "Whether one chooses to divine the fact that we're in a recession or not really does miss the point," said Jeremy Kronick, president of the CD Howe Institute, a non-partisan economic think tank. **"I mean, it, the economy, is weak, right?"** 2. Rising inflation and pocket book pain **For many Canadians, the cost of living is a major worry.** **Some 61% of respondents told the non-profit Angus Reid Institute research firm in a recent poll that it was their top concern, ahead of housing affordability, crime and US tariffs.** 3. More equity for some, higher debt for others Kershaw called rising housing costs a "third kind of inflation" - one which has led to a boom in equity for current homeowners but has left many, mostly younger people, out of the market. 4. Many younger Canadians are struggling **Canada's unemployment ‌stood at 6.6% in May, while youth unemployment is at 13.4%** \- the first decline since January but still stubbornly higher than pre-pandemic averages of about 10%. Kershaw from Generation Squeeze said: "We are at a moment where the economy disproportionately isn't working for younger people, and some newcomers of any age." **5. Canada still depends on US trade - and Trump** US tariffs hit Canada slightly differently compared with other nations, as the country shares a border with the largest economy in the world. More than 70% of Canadian exports head to the US, and the economies are deeply integrated. .......... Yeah you're doing fine. Carney is just landing the Hindenburg on top of the Titantic And you say **"This is fine"**

Happy-n-Healthy

It will be kinda nice to walk into a bank and buy a 1 year CD and get 6% and a free soft side cooler like back in 2005, I've missed those days.

Skittler_On_The_Roof

I don't pretend to know a lot about high end knife making, other than the price of raw steel going from $1.50 to $3 per pound doesn't substantially increase the price of a 6oz $100+ knife. I'd wonder if tariffs and reciprocal tariffs are playing a part for your Fibrox knives.  Really don't know. Auto manufacturers have automated as much as possible and have a ton of leverage on their suppliers.  Also, with a more complex process there's more room for continuous improvement.  I.e., the button-less infotainment systems we all hate save hundreds or more compared to the mechanical/electrical knobs, CD players, mechanically driven speedometers, cables, tachs, etc.   They've really fought tooth and nail because a $50k base model Camry puts them out of business.  Victronix will hurt doubling prices but there's still a market, especially if the cheaper brands that have a higher % of costs in materials are also rising. 

Interesting_File_654

I recommend 4-6 months, depending on what job field you're in, God forbid you get laid off. I'm 26, and have never had an immediate emergency or can I think of one that would require anything over $3k at once. I'd say anything over 6 months, in a reasonably healthy economy, is plenty to provide a safety net. Anything over, your money/ buying power is eroding and should be invested into something like an S&P500 ETF or CD.

Rivannux

My husband and I know nothing about investing. I him not to put money in a 401k because he wouldn’t be able to take it out until he retired and it was better to put it in a CD instead…. His company would’ve matched 50% of everything he put in

animalinstinct10m

Buffer ETFs are a good supplement. A 100% buffer from Innovator gives you S&P upside (up to a cap) with 100% downside protection. That way, you earn more than SGOV or a MM mutual fund, have liquidity, and don't pay taxes on income (like you would with a HYSA, CD, MM mutual fund, or Treasury ETF). The tax impact is when you liquidate but it will be at the capital gains tax rate rather than the ordinary income tax rate. Didn't answer the question of amount as that depends on many of the risks that others have already addressed.

sumsimpleracer

I don’t think it needs to sit idle in a savings account. I think you can set aside 3 months of necessary expenses, and then the rest you can cycle through a CD ladder for slightly more yield. You could even open a taxable brokerage and open up opportunities at the more conservative end of the market. But remember, the goal for this money is preservation, not yield or growth.

snek-jazz

Fair points, I trend towards being risk averse, so 50k was almost certainly excessive. I could probably live for 2 years on that. > Look into treasury money market funds, CD ladders, ultrashort bond funds, etc. This stuff tends to be a pain in the ass in terms of taxation in my country unless it's in a pension wrapper. Ordinary people barely invest at all directly.

sqenchlift444

You answered one point of many. Does the rest of the scenario resonate? $50k feels like a lot. What’s your monthly “burn rate” (the money you need to spend to pay rent/mortgage, eat, support basic lifestyle, etc)? What’s that multiplied by 6? By 3? Also, there are ways to still make that money work for you. Look into treasury money market funds, CD ladders, ultrashort bond funds, etc. Personal finance is not about maximizing returns at any cost. It’s about making your money work for you in the best way possible. For some, that means risk aversion. For others, who typically don’t have dependents / less spend overall, it’s about being more risky.

mikeismug

My comfort level is: - 3 months normal living expenses immediately available in the bank "savings" earning potato interest - Another 3 months normal living expenses in a HYSA (Fidelity money market), can be transferred to bank if needed, or trickle into investments as it grows - One CD somewhere that I can sell for another 2 months living expenses if totally needed - Everything else invested per my goals

hammock62

I currently have $258k in CD’s and HYSA. It’s only 8% of my total investments. The reason why I have it so high is my wife’s employer went into chapter 11 so she was in danger of loosing her job but 3 months ago a better paying job fell into her lap.

christinathestorygrl

So how should I reallocate my 401k? I'm really spooked by the Japanese bonds stuff, insurance companies underwriting AI build out and all the other shenanigans that Patrick Boyle et al have been discussing for months. It sure feels like an economic catastrophe is coming. I know in my guts AI is going to hugely underdeliver and we're going into a bubble-burst ala 2008, [dot.com](http://dot.com), and so on. I don't see any reason to believe the US economy and/or market will recover quickly after a big correction or crash when we aren't actually making stuff people want to buy. I really feel like it's time to be fearful while the rest of the world is being greedy, to borrow from Buffet. My stats: 46 years old, single, USA Employed, $57,000-ish a year, contributing 5% to 401k to maximize employer match. Hoping to protect and grow my 401k until 66-ish. Current allocations: * Principal Fixed Income Guaranteed Option - 11.19% * Fidelity Advisor Capital & Income I Fund - 23.65% * Fidelity OTC Fund - 7.82% * Vanguard Explorer Admiral Fund - 10.70% * [American Funds New World R6 Fund](https://secure05.principal.com/RetirementServiceCenter/memberview?page_name=investmentdetail&cat_name=indv&MODE=QUOTE&ticker=RNWGX&SYMBOL=RNWGX&inv_name=American%20Funds%20New%20World%20R6%20Fund&InvestmentNumber=11212&rc=20&InvTypeQualifier=1&contract_num=527100&id_num=NFhkRGFlaCtWd2RWWWNFWGNFUW81UWZlSFVrYm1abGUyRW5OOFgyY3ZaQT0) \- 16.6% * [Invesco International Small-Mid Company R6 Fund](https://secure05.principal.com/RetirementServiceCenter/memberview?page_name=investmentdetail&cat_name=indv&MODE=QUOTE&ticker=OSCIX&SYMBOL=OSCIX&inv_name=Invesco%20International%20Small-Mid%20Company%20R6%20Fund&InvestmentNumber=14455&rc=20&InvTypeQualifier=1&contract_num=527100&id_num=NFhkRGFlaCtWd2RWWWNFWGNFUW81UWZlSFVrYm1abGUyRW5OOFgyY3ZaQT0) \- 13.47% * [Vanguard Developed Markets Index Admiral Fund](https://secure05.principal.com/RetirementServiceCenter/memberview?page_name=investmentdetail&cat_name=indv&MODE=QUOTE&ticker=VTMGX&SYMBOL=VTMGX&inv_name=Vanguard%20Developed%20Markets%20Index%20Admiral%20Fund&InvestmentNumber=12822&rc=20&InvTypeQualifier=1&contract_num=527100&id_num=NFhkRGFlaCtWd2RWWWNFWGNFUW81UWZlSFVrYm1abGUyRW5OOFgyY3ZaQT0) \- 16.57% I also have about $12k in a RothIRA, with VTI - 32% and then the rest were individual stocks that were probably pretty stupid (REITs, etc, recommended by SeekingAlpha). However, PM - 9% and PLTR - 7.17% are doing well! No consumer debt but about $85k left on a 3.8% condo mortgage, equity in condo is probably $80-90k. A 50k emergency fund in a 4% high-yield savings account, 7k in a one-year CD. My mother passed away last year and TECHNICALLY my brother and I have each inherited about 700k in rental properties, but I don't consider that "mine," per se; my mother's trust bypassed my dad to avoid a second wife stealing the properties from her kids, but with the understanding I would make sure he was comfortable for the rest of his life. He's in amazingly great health at 74; super active. It would be spiritually maddening to see my 401k drop 30-50% or more and take a decade or more to recover when so many signs were pointing to a crash. I'm willing to consider even really counterintuitive, somewhat crazy options, like withdrawing the $72k I'm allowed to cash out of the 401k, taking the penalties and tax hits, and, like, putting it towards my mortgage and/or physical gold and/or Bitcoin. Thanks so much!

Vast_Cricket

Some kind of anytime etf that pays a decent interest. There are plenty of these fixed income reits etc that pays higher than CD. Risk is small but does fluctuate slightly.

AllCapNoBrake

Now just imagine, if even for 1 second, how much you'd have if you weren't regarded and put that money into a 6mo CD.

ddscience

People like BTC because it can get you massive returns, but there’s a trade-off because it’s also highly volatile / risky. Now (for example) imagine you can get that same rate of return but from something without any risk at all like a bond or a CD- People would put their money into that instead of BTC. So there’s an inverse relationship between the interest rates you can get from risk-free investments (bonds) and the prices of high-risk investments (crypto).

AddisonsContracture

I have a wine membership in Napa where I put up a certain amount of money, get 4% guaranteed cash return, 3% value in wine shipped to me every year, and invitation to a yearly party where I eat incredible food and drink as much top end wine as I want. Probably not the strictly optimal investment but I think of it as a medium risk CD and have a lot of fun with it.

Elegant-Age-47

Youre a very smart person! Actually this money just cleared. I had him put it in a flexible CD for the 2 weeks it took to clear. It was from a lawsuit I worked hard for. Without other savings. Yes I cashed everything out and at least I made 110 from the 2 weeks lol. Right i agree with everything you said! Thanks for your time:))

Happy-n-Healthy

Looking at this thread makes the 4.5% Etrade CD look like 10 bagger

seven2one6

Investing might not be your thing. Cut your losses and sell now while you still have some. Put half into a yielding CD and the other half into precious metals. Get a job and pay your bills. Any leftover Pennies put into crypto.

Numerous_Top3641

He’s smart. Listen to him. Should be getting at least 4% in a CD or bond.

Alex32940

Drop him. We have excess funds in CD's . 90% in equities. Over One million

FeelsAmazingManGun

You bought a dying company with a shitty product, what did you expect. Should have put your $10 into a 3% CD instead

Callabria

Could potentially consider increasing exposure in JEPI and gpix and reducing the CD accordingly

DoinIt4DaShorteez

I don't see any problem with that mix as far as safety. The GPIX position won't cause much volatility and JEPI isn't very volatile. But I'm not sure why you're asking, you must have done the calculations already. SPAXX, JEPI and GPIX get you almost halfway there. I don't know what you can get in a CD and/or a treasury ladder with the other $100k, but you must.

Callabria

I suppose there is not much diffrence if the CD pays monthly to a checking or savings instead of compounding

Whole_Move7660

Yeah diverse I guess. 10 years 200 percent is better than 3% in CD

therealjerseytom

North of 5% yield I think is going to be tough. Personally I don't see much point in both a 5-year CD *and* a Treasury ladder. I'd just consolidate to Treasury between the two of those; you can at least get income with that whereas with a CD you're not collecting the interest until maturity. But I think you'd probably need to get into corporate bonds, of varying quality, to get the yield you're looking for.

bittercripple6969

Think of cheese like a CD...

Shoganai_Hito

Offspring Smash was the 1st CD i bought and it still hits hard

NecessaryEmployer488

I'm saying the market which includes stocks and Bond Funds. I'm saying cash and CDs you cannot get enough gains for compound interest. With 3% inflation, you really need 6% or more for compound interest. So buying bonds is a safe way, just make sure they are making above 6٪. The higher rates happen from time to time so that is time invest. I remember my teachers in highschool getting 10 to 12٪ on long term bonds and going full in. I am personally building a 2yr CD Ladder at above 4% as a money I can use in retirement. I need my equities to last so the worse thing you can do is to sell in a down market because you have to. I can take from my fixed income and then replinish by selling when when the markets are high.

RecordHigh

I don't totally agree. If you're looking at credit card debt with a rate over 20% then definitely pay that off ASAP, but I've averaged more than 8% in my investment accounts over the last 35 years. Having said that, I always put at least a token amount every month towards paying off loans that were more than I could get in a CD or HYSA. It felt good to pay them off a little early, and I looked at it as part of an overall diversification strategy.

old-fave

That’s not investing. It’s gambling. Get a job and a CD.

Valkorion335786

I bought a CD from some guy outside the dollar store labeled Celine Dion classic remix It goes so hard it could sink a ship

TestSubjuct

CD's, Bonds, and Saving.

No-Math-5868

My portfolio, not including 529 money or home equity is fairly large, to the point where it is over 60X my annual expenses and over 22X my annual income which is pretty high to begin with. So it's not difficult task to build out a 10 year TIPS ladder which would be about 16% of my current portfolio. However, I need to average 3.4% assuming no more contributions until the first date I would even consider retiring to get the so called number I was looking for, which would bring that TIPS ladder to about 12% of my portfolio. I know I didn't answer your question yet, but I figured I would provide some background. I've been investing since my mother introduced me to IRAs (before there were Roth IRAs) when I 16, had working papers and she matched what I put into a CD up to the then limit of 2K (I put in 1K and she put in 1K). I've been a disciplined investor for decades... never panicked or changing my investing strategy. Up until about 2-3 years ago, I as 98.5%+ in equities with the rest in short term cash. I've been slowly transitioning to some fixed income to where I'm at 10% of which 25% of that is my TIPS ladder. My goal is to ultimately get to 20% fixed income. My equity portion is probably around 90% VOO, with a little bit of QQQ, ACN stock since I used to work there, and few other play ETFs like VXUS. I invested in VOO for over 30 years before VOO even existed as and ETF and there was a just a mutual fund. I've been auto investing twice a week the entire time never stopping. When I got pay raises, or other things, I increased the amounts (this was in addition to retirement accounts and 529 accounts). I guess you can say, I was FIRE before the caveman and VOO and chill before VOO was born.

Minimum_Exchange_622

simple, buy CD Project for Witcher 4 and new Witcher 3 incoming DLCs, its like 250 still so its gonna do its ath at 400+ again like with Cyberpunk, so its like 65% easy gains in like year 2 tops. Ya welcome

polarWhite2024

But we all know that OP is not talking about these particular types of stocks. Have you heard of "No penalty CD" that many banks offer nowadays? You can break them at any time without paying any penalty and getting to keep all the interest earned up to that point. And you did not comment on "you cannot sell the kitchen of the house for cash". The bottom line is that you failed to consider the liquidity factor in comparison of typical investment vehicles to a house and you keep trying to goal post to try to validate your point. But it didn't work.

fallingdowndizzyvr

SGOV savings bonds? SGOV is not a savings bond. It's a ETF. Just an ETF. Sure, that ETF deals in short term bonds but don't confuse the ETF with it's underlying assets. With a 2 year CD, you are guaranteed that rate for 2 years. With a SGOV, you aren't guarantee that your principal will be intact. Sure, it trades stably but that's not a guarantee.

NecessaryEmployer488

I'm doing CD Ladders write now with 2 year CDs, but am thinking converting to SGOV savings bonds. I'm creating about 3 - 5 years of expenses with bonds to allow more stability for retirement, and keeping my taxes low for retirement.

pegasusCK

It is both similar and very different from a CD It's an actual commodity unlike a CD. So it's like a physical thing. It can be resold back into the market if you ever change your mind and you need the money immediately. The value of the actual bond is equal to the interest rate you were able to get locked in for 20 years So let's say I buy a 20-year Bond 3 months ago when the rates were low and you bought a 20-year Bond right now with the rates spiking really high If you were to resell your bond you would get a lot more than I would since your rate is much higher locked in for 20 years. The way that it is different is that a CD can't be resold. And it can also be canceled for a penalty The bond doesn't really have a penalty but rather than canceling it you would resell it into the market. Which is pretty automatic and easy to do. You wouldn't take any penalty reselling it but the amount you resell it for is going to be dependent on the rates at that time and since the rates are really high right now getting a bond means it is going to probably increase in relative value when rates end up going down eventually Like imagine we are at an all-time high right now so you lock in a 20-year Bond at this crazy 5% ish rate Then later 6 to 7 months from now the rates are down to under 4%. Your older Bond would be worth more because you are locked in at a much higher rate than someone now buying a new Bond at a lower rate and getting a much worse 20 year lock in. So buying bonds at such a high rate makes double sense. You can resell for higher if it drops PLUS it pays a heck more every 6 months if u just keep it as long as u can.

Longjumping_Quiet_20

When you are up Big just take 30 percent out.Put in a CD or something in case all fail you have a nest egg somewhere 

polarWhite2024

False. US Treasuries, CD do not go down as long as you hold them till maturity.

KweenieQ

My answer would depend on whether the 50-year-old will qualify for Social Security. That takes 40 quarters of employment paying into the system OR being married to someone for at least 10 years who is eligible. It also depends on her cost of living and tax bracket. She needs to save every penny. Get her into high-yield savings to start. If her tax bracket is already low, getting her into a retirement account at this point doesn't make as much sense as you might think. There's a school of thought that rushes such people into full-equity investing. I think that's wrong. Yeah, MIL has at least 10 years, but if she loses a bunch in year 9, she has fewer options for recovery than you or I, not to mention the emotional devastation that would come from busting a hump to save, only to lose it in a correction. MIL needs steady wins to keep going. I'd be more inclined to lock down guaranteed sources of income -> cash flow. SS is one. A pension is another. A good fixed annuity is another. One or more bond or CD ladders could also do it as long as interest is paid incrementally (as opposed to waiting until maturity) from sufficient principal. I might also start a small brokerage account in equities with the intent to gift it down the road if the account does well and my spouse can be depended on not to tell MIL ahead of time.

Fauked

Best I could find was 3% HYSA and 4% CD .. where do you find 5%?

ManhattanTime

Vanguard too. 3.35% and it's not tied up like a CD.

goomba1214

I agree with you. And that’s the vicious cycle of owning a struggling restaurant. The brand (like Wendy’s or TGI Fridays) falls out of favor, which means less revenue for the store. So the business owner may go from making 7% on their money (a pretty good investment) to 4% (would make as much if they just put their money in a CD account with no stress). Now his manager asks for a raise because their friend who manages a McDonalds is making more than them. The owner does the math and figures out that the raise would bring him to 3% return on his money, along with the risk that the manager talks to other employees and they get pissed that they’re not getting raises. So the manager doesn’t get the raise and gets pissed and leaves. The owner wasn’t trying to be mean, it just didn’t make financial sense for the business. Now think about how the guy who began this thread (and somehow got upvotes from fellow idiots) who said “the owners should’ve foregone AI and paid the employees more” If the owner did that, his 4% return becomes -2%, meaning he would have to shut down the business and everybody loses their jobs.

SokkaHaikuBot

^[Sokka-Haiku](https://www.reddit.com/r/SokkaHaikuBot/comments/15kyv9r/what_is_a_sokka_haiku/) ^by ^CD274: *Well they announced a* *Stock dilution so you should* *Have sold right that morning* --- ^Remember ^that ^one ^time ^Sokka ^accidentally ^used ^an ^extra ^syllable ^in ^that ^Haiku ^Battle ^in ^Ba ^Sing ^Se? ^That ^was ^a ^Sokka ^Haiku ^and ^you ^just ^made ^one.

Sea-Anything-3393

I would have access to $25,000, which would be enough to cover both an emergency fund ($15,000) and a used $10,000 car. I can also break the UIF 12-Month Time Deposit (CD) if I ever need to. I might be wrong, but Islamically, I don’t believe there’s actually a fee for breaking it. That’s part of why I’m comfortable putting $20,000 into it at the 3.74% profit rate / 3.79% APY. I’m just afraid to put more than $35,000 into the market because, honestly, what if I lose? I’d rather keep the remaining $45,000 in cash so I have that safety net.

Sea-Anything-3393

Thanks for commenting! Yes a Time Deposit is like a CD.

taplar

I'm assuming a Time Deposit is like a CD? If so that's over 50% in cash holdings. Personally, that's an extremely conservative holding. However, how you allocate is a very personal decision. How any of us on the subreddit would invest our money does not reflect on how you should, or if you are doing so "wrongly".

BDice42

Throw that shit in a high interest CD and watch it grow!

SpaceCephalopods

Healthcare. Bonds. CD ladders. Low cost ETFs. If real estate tanks like ‘07 buy some real estate. Diversification.

Majestic_Republic_45

You’re not an investor. Park it in a HYSA or a CD.

Haunting_Penalty1543

Music royalty income takes time to stabilize (generally 5 to 7 years post-release) but for evergreen material (and increasingly more middle of the road material, thanks to the stickiness of digital streaming audiences versus the old paradigm of one-off physical sales like vinyl and CD's), the royalty income is recurrent and uncorrelated to the broader market While the returns are rarely astronomical, if you value the acquisition right and properly diligence the underlying contracts and chain of title, music acquisitions are a very compelling and growing asset class whose drawn interest and participation from virtually all institutional investment firms as it has become easier to underwrite and the market continues to prove itself

Puzzleheaded_War6102

If you are 1 year from retirement and 100% equity portfolio. You are the greatest regard and belong here. At least 6-8 years out you should be 80:20. And move 5% from equities each year to blend of CD, TBills, and GLD until the ratio is 60:40. You should also have 2 expenses stored in HYSA or CD 1 year prior to retirement.

Long_Illustrator_988

Utter insanity to suggest a young person invest all of their money in a CD

Street-Pineapple-188

You'd make a good CD 💿

KweenieQ

Imagine you're within two years of retirement. Start planning noncallable IG bond and CD ladders now. Harvest any equity losses; take some partial profits until you have about two years' worth of living expenses covered. That's what your first ladders will be built from. While you're at it, turn off some of your reinvestment steam. Redirect that cash to high-yield savings. You'll eventually use that to replace maturing bonds or CDs down the road, along with whatever bond or CD principal you don't need to spend right away. You want to give yourself as much time to "sell high" as you possibly can before the bills come due.

DistributionFun9623

You're 22 and have a fat savings rate, but a house down payment isn't a retirement account. Even with the flexible timeline, one bad year at year 4 will wreck your plans. Keep it in Treasuries or a HYSA, maybe a CD ladder. If you want some upside, put a small slice in VTI and leave the rest safe.

PixelPhoenixForce

u/CD274 please continue

StandardObject91

Well guys. Seems like some folks misjudged CHTR prospects. The announced bond deal will wipe about a billion of debt off the books. |**Issuer(s)**|**Title of Security**|**Aggregate Principal****Amount Outstanding**|**CUSIP No./ ISIN****^((1))**|**Acceptance Priority****Level****^((2))**|**Sub-Cap****^((2))**|**Principal****Amount****Tendered**| |:-|:-|:-|:-|:-|:-|:-| |CCO Issuers|3.500% senior secured notes due 2042|$1,236,000,000|161175CE2 /US161175CE27|1|N/A|$323,348,000| |3.500% senior secured notes due 2041|$1,479,000,000|161175BZ6 /US161175BZ64|2|N/A|$450,822,000| | TWC Issuer|4.500% senior debentures due 2042|$1,250,000,000|88732JBD9 /US88732JBD90|3|$ 614,423,000|$614,423,000| |CCO Issuers|5.375% senior secured notes due 2047|$2,265,000,000|161175BL7 / US161175BL78 161175BD5 US161175BD52|4|N/A|$778,719,000| |2.300% senior secured notes due 2032|$1,000,000,000|161175BX1 /US161175BX17|5|N/A|$144,042,000| |2.800% senior secured notes due 2031|$1,590,000,000| 161175BU7 / US161175BU77|6|N/A|$260,060,000| |2.250% senior secured notes due 2029|$1,250,000,000|161175CD4 /US161175CD44|7|N/A|$93,326,000| ||||||||| |:-|:-|:-|:-|:-|:-|:-|:-| |(1)|No representation is made as to the correctness or accuracy of the CUSIP or ISIN numbers listed in the Offering Memorandum (as defined below). Such CUSIP and ISIN numbers are provided solely for the convenience of the holders of Pool 1 Notes.| |(2)|Subject to the New 2038 Notes Cap (as defined below) and, solely with respect to the 4.500% senior debentures due 2042 issued by the TWC Issuer (the "4.500% Notes"), the sub-cap with respect to the aggregate principal amount of such series set forth in this table and proration, the principal amount of each series of Pool 1 Notes that is accepted for exchange in the Pool 1 Offer will be determined in accordance with the applicable Acceptance Priority Level (in numerical priority order with 1 being the highest Acceptance Priority Level and 7 being the lowest) specified in this column.| *Pool 2 Notes* |**Issuer(s)**|**Title of Security**|**Aggregate Principal****Amount Outstanding**|**CUSIP No./ ISIN****^((1))**|**Acceptance****Priority Level****^((2))**|**Sub-Cap**|**Principal Amount****Tendered**| |:-|:-|:-|:-|:-|:-|:-| |CCO Issuers|3.700% senior secured notes due 2051|$2,050,000,000|161175BV5 /US161175BV50|1|N/A|$517,617,000| |3.900% senior secured notes due 2052|$2,400,000,000|161175CA0 /US161175CA05|2|N/A|$504,449,000| |4.800% senior secured notes due 2050|$2,473,000,000|161175BT0 /US161175BT05|3|N/A|$864,822,000| |5.125% senior secured notes due 2049|$1,244,000,000|161175BS2 /US161175BS22|4|N/A|$505,766,000| |5.250% senior secured notes due 2053|$1,500,000,000|161175CK8 /US161175CK86|5|N/A|$296,723,000|

BirdNose73

Unless rates skyrocket there’s really no reason to save that much of a downpayment. Having more than 100k in a HYSA or CD’s seems silly and would leave a lot of cash on the table

sirideletereddit

ETF in the stock market. The Roth you both max and the funds in your husbands TSP are already being invested in the market I would hope so you’re already exposed to the stock market. Taking the money from the CD to an ETF doesn’t put you into any new investment, it just reallocates your total to be more stock market and less Treasury.

Happy-n-Healthy

Breaking: Etrade has CD paying 4.5%!

MegaWeinerFarts

> would it be best to put this money in a generic brokerage account invested in the S&P, an HYSA, or somewhere else? Short answer, HYSA or better yet CD's or even Treasuries, making sure they mature before you're ready to buy. As to why people don't generally recommend brokerage: What if the economy is in a full on recession in 5 years? Stocks down 30%. Would you be willing to sell at such a loss in order to buy your home, even if home values might be down a bit too? Probably not. 5 years though, that's usually the cutoff time between investing needed money and saving it in fixed income (HYSA, CD's).

Vast_Cricket

That comes with experience. During [Dot.com](http://Dot.com) era the stock market tanked 3 years in a row. Each year lost at least 1/3 of previous total. That is index like Voo not just some stocks. There were many companies that just evaporated over night. One dot com was selling animal foods and shipped dry food by carrier. That went out of business! One just has so much patience for a recovery. The S&P index took 7 years to recover not 1 or 2 years as mentioned. If one bought INTEL at the peak in 2000 that took until this April 2026 to recover after a recent govt invest and offer $11.1b grant. 26 years to be exact! Microsoft took 16 years to break even and so on. There were 2010 Great Recession all investors took a big toll on all stocks. Covid (bailed out by govt) and Trump 1.0 came on board Wall Street saw a 3-month short bloody market also. The strategy is sometimes sitting on cash or CD if all opportunities do not present. During 2009 some banks had restriction not let customer to take out much cash. A few got so worried they slept with cash under their mattress while losing their home from subprime mortgage disaster. So they lost everything they had. What has worked for me is anticipate what is coming up and prepare for it. Rather than losing 1/3 total each year mentioned early people put into bond. On annuity people say it is a rip off I did quite well. Now I have tax free municipal bonds. I put small blocks of bonds some are even insured. This is not saying I do not invest in Ai stocks. Having predicted a correction moment was coming I took profit and put into safer bond. Rest I have some waiting for a recovery. I also knew Trump 2.0 was a big spender I got in early enough with govt contractor stocks. There are jail stocks (ICE) that prospered also. On precious metals, people said over and over they were worthless. Guess what? $4,293 a Troy oz is not the same as $350 from before. That goes with oil or energy stocks. Trump said the conflict was over . I have to pay $5.69 for 87 grade gas still? I have loaded crude oil stocks not imported from Middle East. Had I listened to our commander in chief I would have missed this opportunity bought more AI stock and lose them. In summery, a strategy like diversification having a little into mid cap, small cap, different industries, commodity and overseas equity and some bond and fixed income reduce "beta" appreciably. If one does not have time to research companies etf is the way to go.

Happy-n-Healthy

Most of you guys would be better off putting your money in a CD, turning the computer off and going outside and cutting laws for cash

Final-Designer-388

Which financial institution is handling your CD?

True_Succotash1563

Where else do you think people want to put their money? CD’s, Treasury’s, Gold, Silver, crypto, pokemon cards? Everyone here can yap and cry about the Ai bubble and over inflated stocks. At the end of the day the market is where people put their money. And until there’s a better option that won’t change. Doesn’t matter if it’s 401k’s or your casino gambling money. The market will go up.

MaximumCarnage88

CDs are fine but I don't like the lock in. Much more ergonomic to by a US treasuries ETF like sgov or VBIL. Or short term gov bond ETF like SCHO if you can stomach slightly longer duration. The ETFs continually have old bonds mature and new bonds rolling in, so the rate is always changing, you're riding the average of short term rates whatever they are. Overall rates should be in the same ballpark as a short term CD. But no early sell penalty.

glzpabon

Depends, you can get goverment bonds. T-Bills or T-Notes, they pay arpund the same as a CD. If you want more return then you need to get some Corporate Bonds, but they are risky.

True_Succotash1563

Where else are they gonna put their money? CD’s? Treasuries? Gold? BTC? Pokemon cards? Bruh 401ks will invest like normal. Until there’s a better place to put your money this shit ain’t gonna change.

learner_1748

SGOV , will be more flexible than a CD. You can liquidate anytime you want no strings attached like CD's

Effyew4t5

I’m 73 with maybe as much as 2% of my portfolio in CD/bonds. The other 98% is in stocks. Portfolio is doing very well

Fraubump

Here's a trade I'm currently in: on 6/5/26 I sold some MSFT 09/18/2026 380.00 Puts for $11.35. So that's 11.35/380 x 365/106 = 10.28% annualized ROI assuming it doesn't get put (looking good right now). I also bought a 3 month CD at 3.9%, giving the trade an overall annualized ROI of about 14%. Of course, I would probably have been better off just buying MSFT outright on that date: closing price on 6/5 was about $420, so as of yesterday ($487) it had gained \~16% since that date. I will also be perfectly happy if MSFT price goes below $380 and I am assigned the shares. Note, I do trades like this with a relatively small % of my investments. I am 95% longterm buy and hold equities.