HYSA

xiaodown

Yeah my concern isn’t the safety of the investment as a conceptual thing, it’s more that my money in my HYSA is fdic insured to $250k (or $500k for joint accounts), but to buy SGOV i would have to put the money into a brokerage where it (presumably) isn’t FDIC insured. It’s probably an academic distinction, but that’s what I was getting at.

MaddRamm

SGOV all day long. Same or higher rates as a HYSA and don’t have to worry about any crazy limitations or bank solvency/FDIC/etc. my CU only pays the HYSA up to $25k. So I’ve started putting excess into Happen (formerly Lending Club).

jb59913

HYSA

Hashtagworried

I’m curious as I’ve just started to look into SGOV. Why even bother with HYSA given that SGOV has better tax advantages.

Snahhhgurrrr

GIC, HYSA, [CASH.to](http://CASH.to)

Slight_Taro7300

SGOV is an ETF that invests in ultra-short 0-3mo US Bonds, which are exempt from paying state income taxes unlike HYSA interest.

Ant010101

How so? Wanting to save 2.5k a month for the year and a half and i already maxed out my 6mo emergency savings HYSA :/

theblindness

200K is enough where the net yield after taxes matters. US treasury bills, short term notes, and floating rate notes will have a better net yield than an HYSA, and more preferably tax treatment in states with income tax. For example, in California the difference between a 52W T-Bill and a Capital One HYSA could be up to 1.6%, which amounts to about $3K/year on $200K. Figure out how much of it would be needed for different durations, split the money into piles for each duration, and use that money to buy US treasuries matching the duration.

saltyhasp

Into a money market fund or HYSA. If the rates were better and I know when I needed it, I might buy a CD or Bond with a suitable maturity. I'd base the my decision on after tax interest rate, and credit quality I wanted. Hint Vanguard has pretty good mutual fund rates. They also have a bank sweep HYSA for FDIC insurance of larger balances, though you may be able to find better HYSA deals.

Slight_Taro7300

SGOV may be more tax efficient than HYSA depending on your state income tax.

smashmouthallstar420

Buy the new 5.5% i-bonds to your maximum and then HYSA the rest

Nelvalhil

2 yrs is HYSA, yes.

officialcrimsonchin

Slam dunk it into my HYSA

CoatAlternative1771

I meant a HYSA, I just did my election for health care lol.

WhichReception9597

Index funds long term, emergency fund in HYSA.

Prestigious_Way_738

Yall realize you can get 6% HYSA with X Money right now? You don't need to suffer with this market.

InvestigatorThat5062

Haha I love your ingredients comparison. Makes sense. I didn’t even really think about my brokerage having a “purpose” except for me using Fidelity for FDLXX / SGOV HYSA and my other brokerage is just built into this account as well. So maybe look at removing VGT, adding more SGOV or something else that’s stable? To me, 7-10 years seemed like a long time but yeah you’re right with how long the market can take to bounce back… 7-10 isn’t that much haha

DistributionBroad173

When I started investing I had to pay a $75 commission to buy and a $75 commission to sell. Right off the bat, I was down $150. If I bought a stock at $10, it needed to go to $12 for me to have a profit. You are buying stuff at zero expenses and zero commissions. The smartest thing you have done is you have started and you are in Fidelity Zero Expense funds. Most of us old farts dollar cost averaged into our 401k/403b/457 plans. We bought high, we bought low. I have invested through the crashes of 1987, 2002, 2008, and 2022. The worst being the 2008 crash. Bond funds are fallacies on their safety, Everyone who bought bond funds from 2018 - 2022 was buying funds paying 1% interest. They do not cushion the blow with income. We had three regional banks fail in 2023, because they owned a whole bunch of 1% bonds, and when rates started climbing, no one wanted their bonds. Then, bank customers wanted cash and the bank had to sell 1% bonds when people could buy a 3% bond from the US government, the banks failed. Charles Schwab owned $40,000,000,000 in unrealized losses on 1% bonds and was close to failing, but they had people constantly sending them money instead of asking for money, Charles Schwab weathered the storm. My advice, stay away from bond funds, but you can buy individual bonds. Buying a bond at 5% is a lot better than 1%. But, an HYSA is paying you 3.8% or so, and your cash is liquid and not locked up. I will buy one bond if yields get to 8%, I will buy more when yields get to 9%, I will back up the truck when yields get to 10% or higher. The last time bonds were at 10% was 1988, I think. In 1991, I came to the conclusion to never own any fund that owned bonds. Any fund that owned bonds in our 401ks or IRAs, was sold. The money all went into the S&P 500 Index. We retired in 2023, and that decision worked out very well for us.

Important-Swim3873

lol fucking orange pos literally everything is outperformign stocks this year. yugioh cards, gold, even fucking HYSA. who would of thought that reatrded ass people would pick a fuckingclown

Important-Swim3873

https://preview.redd.it/d7vyoo3rs8zh1.png?width=698&format=png&auto=webp&s=5c15dbb153568156bc08fbffa355170d96429e41 dang people imvested in HYSA outperformed us on a 6 month basis

good4y0u

Fidelity is generally the best. Also, take advantage of their high-yield money market (like a checking + HYSA) for everyday use, has a debit card.

ydw1988913

I have a Lambo on agreed value policy, and it's been appreciating, beating HYSA I'd say

nicolas_06

You should not invest whatever money you might need before 10-20 years. If it's for emergencies, stick it to HYSA. You don't want that when you need it because these say a crisis and a market crash and you lost your job that the money is gone. Having a shared pool for emergency or investment look cool but this can really create issues as if 2 persons have an emergency in a short timeframe or whatever the second one might get nothing and be resentful. The notion of emergency may vary from person to person. It might also be that some people end up always putting more while some other end up always withdrawing more. And for investment it's a bit of the same. When do you agree you can withdraw what was invested ? Who own what ? How does it works ? What if one withdraw early, get less growth and another one keep it longer and get more growth ? What if the investment strategy perform badly and was decided by somebody else ? All that is at a big risk. If really you want to do this, I think you'll want a professional to do the management and investment for the family as they will be able to do all the accounting and serve as a shield to defuse/reduce family drama around that money. So you need a CPA and financial advisor... And the best is most likely that each member has his own emergency fund + his own investments. On top you'll be able to better leverage your country laws to help you invest. Like if you put in a 401K by your name you get better taxes but it doesn't work well if it is not only your money.

Muted-Woodpecker-469

I have considerably less but just watching dividends and the HYSA payouts grow as I do nothing is something else. To be able to do it at a larger scale as some don’t even want to try makes me assume maybe op gambled a bit to get his riches. They know nothing else but to keep on going for the homeruns. No one wants singles or bunts. 

jarredknowledge

Yea probably gonna roll my emergency fund in these. Why not make an extra 2% vs a HYSA

GreedyPomegranate391

The penalty is also only for the first 5 years I think. I've put 1/3 of my emergency fund there, it was my entire emergency fund back then. The rest I keep in HYSA now.

Vlisa

most people should invest in VOO and chill. I would never tell my close friends to do the shit I do lol. I wish they would put their extra cash into SPY instead of leaving in in a HYSA.

Spacey_G

It sounds like I made an incorrect assumption that your after tax investments were intended to fund shorter term expenses in retirement during a bridge period before pre-tax money was accessible, with bonds meant to reduce SORR. This is a very common use-case for a taxable brokerage account, and an investor who plans for a situation like that would generally have a large enough balance in both account types to run the rebalancing scheme I described. If you're nowhere near retirement and instead saving after-tax money for some large expense like a house purchase, it makes a lot of sense to just stash the money in stable places like a HYSA or bonds with duration matched to your expected need for the cash and to do so in after-tax accounts.

Crayshack

Depends on your expected timeline for when you need the funds. If you are looking at long-term investments (20+ years), you're probably fine leaving it mostly in index funds to ride the waves of the market (the Boglehead approach). If you are looking at something more mid-term (~10 years), then diversify into things outside of the tech sector and less likely to drop with a general market crash (not mid caps, but certain commodities and long-term bonds/CDs, depending on the rates you find). If you are looking at something short-term (<5 years), you should be in HYSA or some other sort of guaranteed return that won't care at all what the market is doing. For me, my IRA and 401(k) are mostly in market index funds which will probably take a bit of a hit with a market correction, but it's not worth trying to time that correction and I get more out of just letting it ride. Meanwhile, my non-retirement investments (likely will be using much of it 5-10 years from now) are mostly in CDs and a Federal Bond index fund with just a little bit in stock index funds. My return on the latter account is much lower than my retirement accounts, but it's also more stable and should be able to weather a poorly timed market crash much better.

WAFL4242

Part of me is actually saying my 4% HYSA is good enough! Part of me is looking at it sitting there going 'what if I just double down'.........

SukhshantiOm

I would be chill parking that in a HYSA and getting $400k a year doing nothing, I say that now, but I've never had this kind of money

TheMallard1

*Laughs in HYSA*

GaylrdFocker

>grows above inflation but has close-to-zero chances to ***EVER*** be in the red No such thing. If your timeline is more than 5 years then Index funds. VT or VTI and chill. You gambled with individual stocks. If less than 5 years a HYSA or CD. They will be pretty even to inflation, but will lose no money.

Priority_Bright

Sounds like you're going to be putting your money in a HYSA or bonds. Best of luck.

rewgs

Stocks, bonds, HYSA/CDs, in that order.

aayush-goenka

Right. Good question. There is a theoretical answer and then there is a practical answer. Ally online says 3.2%, so you may want to check: [https://www.ally.com/bank/view-rates/](https://www.ally.com/bank/view-rates/) So, Ally gives you 3.2%. on a 10,000 savings amount that would be $320 per year in interest. This $320, is not yours. You would pay tax on it. Let say you are in 50-100k income bracket in California (Single filer). That $320, after taxes would net you \~$224. Now, if you were to do the same for SGOV, you would have received 3.99% in current rates i.e. $399. After taxes, that would be \~$310. Note: SGOV earnings dont get state taxed (\~95% of it). So net net, you end up coming out ahead with SGOV \~$86. May not seem like a large number for most people. Two things will change it even more: 1. Do you live in an state with income tax? 2. How much do you earn on your HYSA account. I built a free tool for this, so you can compare and figure out where to put your money. [https://sgovvshysa.com/](https://sgovvshysa.com/)

overitallofittoo

I hope it's not really in a bank. Unless it's a HYSA or something.

Swred1100

HYSA for simplicity

Playful-Glove8918

First, if you have an advisor why aren't they helping you with a plan? Second, when you say rainy day is this your emergency fund? If it is I would not out your emergency fund at risk. Put 6 months of expenses in a HYSA, then invest the remainder in a bond ladder rather than bond funds.

oravecz

I retired last year, and I have a short-, medium-, and long term bucket - roughly equal to 2, 8 and 8+ buckets of annual living expenses. My 2 year bucket is bond equities and HYSA. My long bucket is primarily VTI. My medium bucket is a medium-conservative mix of index funds. I currently moved about half of that to PFSO to hedge against an AI bubble pop event. I plan on evaluating this every year. I only expect to maintain it for one year.

Stonk_Trader69420

I love rate hikes, makes my HYSA and CDs more money, as well as my money market account

Money-Effective7189

I take it your TSP "thrift savings plan" is a pension? Is this guaranteed and is it a defined benefit? Will it cover your cost of living in retirement? If so your in a much better place because your retirement accounts may not need to be accessed right away. Do you get to chose investment options inside your TSP, if so look at 40% stocks / 60% bonds and government securities. This can be a target date fund or you can pick the funds to make this up. You can get help from your plan administrator on what funds oul meet that mix. Your 40 and all your money is in a brokerage account and two mini bonds managed by a Financial Advisor with 13% losses. I would ask why your taking losses and so conservative and your so young. Even if you plan to retire at 55, you have 15 years of potential growth years and you can invest in a mix moderetly conservative funds that would have positive gains and won't lose you 13%. You may want to consider a new advisor, or take your investments over yourself. It sounds like you have a significant chunk in a brokerage account alrrady. An option is to roll the bonds over to your brokerage and then rebalance them, chosing better investments options. Your brokerage account should offer advisor help, look into that as an option. Look to see what your emergency fund is making most HYSA should make between 3 and 4%. Consider money market funds and CDs if they offer better rates. Check k with your brokerage 1st. At your age look at holding the following portfolio % which are consistent for your age I based the example off a $100,000 portfolio. VTI Total U.S. stock market $35,000 / 35% VXUS International stocks $15,000/15% SGOV Short-term Treasury bills $35,000 /35% VGIT Intermediate-term Treasuries $10,000/10% Cash Liquidity reserve $5,000/5% Hold 6 months of income in your emergency fund. If that is to much do 6 months of expenses. Most of thier HYSA pay 3-3.5% which is a good positive yield. Remember this is not advice, do your research and due diligence before investing. Good luck

Celcius_87

HYSA

TScottW

My emergency fund is in a HYSA. I need to be able to get to it in an emergency. Currently 4.5% but will revert to 3.5%ish in 60 days. (My parents used my referral link and we both gained an extra 1% for 90 days)

TwitchyButtockCheeks

HYSA. SGOV. Recently my bank just offered a 10 month CD at 5% so I’m dumping some there too.

Longjumping-Nature70

I am SELLING the bond funds. Take the loss. Do not fall in the sunken cost fallacy trap.(look it up) You have learned that bond funds are terrible investments. Especially when rates were low low. No point in beating you up anymore than that. My rainy day funds have almost always been in stocks or stock mutual funds. Only within the past three years have I actually kept cash in an HYSA. If you can stomach a correction or a crash, equities win in the long term. I am SELLING the bond funds. Take the loss. Do not fall in the sunk cost fallacy. Obviously, since you have not touched this money in 7 years, this is money you do not need. You are nearing 50, you have a TSP, you probably have a pension. I hope the majority of your TSP is in the C Fund. You can take on risk. Open an account at Fidelity. Invest in FNILX, their Zero Expense Fund that is the S&P 500 or invest in SCHD which is the dividend equity fund. Both are safe, but if the market crashes they will crash. Both do pay dividends. If the market goes up, they go up. To make you feel bad, if you would have invested in the S&P 500 or SCHD seven years ago, your money in that account would have doubled.

BugHistorical1614

Wealthfront HYSA & MYGA 4yr ladder (5.15% ave yield, over 59.5yo and no tax penalty for closing out, taxes deferred until funds taken)

Flat_Cartoonist_5668

Bro you are cooked! With this sound critical thinking you will never make money even investing. Just buy bonds or easier HYSA You thought they are shipping the jobs to india when the buyout includes India too? "The software maker announced a new voluntary exit offer for certain workers in the U.S., Canada, India and the United Kingdom at its experience level of 70 or below"

theblindness

Yes, there are better options for your cash position. Please understand where the yield of HYSA or money market account comes from: ultra short government debt, including short term US Treasury bills and overnight repurchase agreements (aka repos). These are affected by the federal benchmark rates set by the Federal Reserve Bank of NY, aka the risk-free rate. When you put money into a HYSA, the bank is automatically buying T-bills and repos, which yield interest roughly equal to the risk-free rate, and the bank takes a small margin, usually about 0.5% off the top to cover overhead expenses, leaving you with a savings interest rate of about 0.50-0.75% below the Federal Reserve benchmark rates. Sometimes a smaller portion of the money that banks take in will be allocated towards other government debt with a slightly higher yield to increase the savings interest rate, but in order to achieve high liquidity, most of the money will be in T-bills and repos. This is a bit easier to see with money market funds, which are more transparent about which securities they invest in and they directly state what percent is taken out for expenses. All HYSA accounts at online banks work this way, whether it’s Ally, AmEx, Capital One, etc. Just to clarify some terms, a money market fund, money market account, and high yield savings account, are all different flavors for the same type of thing, with slightly different structures. A government money market fund is structured as a mutual fund bought through a brokerage, and is the most transparent since they publish a prospectus and quarterly reporting. A money market account functions like a savings account at a bank, and is less transparent, but is basically using the same engine under the hood. And a HYSA is basically equivalent to a money market account, completely opaque. Of the three, the money market *fund* version may be partially tax exempt, depending on what securities it holds and in what proportion. For example, the US T-Bills portion may be exempt from state income tax, and some types of municipal government bonds (aka muni’s) may be exempt from federal and/or state income tax. The money market *account* and HYSA do not disclose the underlying securities, so the interest is fully taxable income. So the first step up form an HYSA would be a money market fund. And depending on your income level, you might prefer a fund that has a higher portion of US Treasury bills or municipal bonds to optimize your net yield after taxes. But you can actually do one better by buying T-Bills or munis directly via a brokerage account. Bonds must be sold on the secondary market before cash can be withdrawn, so they are slightly less liquid than money market funds. Funds must be liquidated during trading days, making them less liquid than the options structured as accounts. There are websites you can use to find savings vehicles like HYSA, money market accounts, CDs, T-Bills, etc, check their effective net yield after taxes, and compare. To balance the need for liquidity in an emergency, with the desire for the highest possible yield on money that would otherwise be sitting idle, you can combine multiple accounts in a tiered strategy that matches need for liquidity to the portions of your emergency fund allocated for different objectives. For example of multiple tiers: \- current month of bills in checking (fully liquid) \- next month of bills in HYSA (a single bank transfer away) \- insurance deductibles also in HYSA \- annual insurance Out of Pocket Maximum in a money market fund (higher interest rate, T+1 day liquidity) \- a month or so of expenses, also in a money market fund. \- emergency reserves for more than a month or so out in short-term T-bills and/or a bond ladder or CD ladder. To make a more specific example, suppose someone has a monthly expenses burn rate of $2,000/month, has a HDHP with a $1750 deductible, $10,000 annual out of pocket maximum, no car, and they want to have a 12-month runway in case of loss of income. They might keep $28-38K of cash in the following allocation: \- $2,000-4,000 in checking earning zero interest, which is fine for the cash buffer of monthly cash flow since that cash doesn’t sit still for long \- $1750-$10,000 in HYSA or money market funds earning roughly the federal benchmark rate, just barely keeping up with inflation, and ready to deploy within 1-2 business days in case of emergency \- $24,000 in emergency reserves in the form of a T-Bill ladder with a different $2,000 rung maturing and auto rolling each month, able to protect against loss of monthly income with a 12 month runway, earning very slightly more than the rate of inflation

shaved_furcoat89

This is a great point ☝️ Check Nerd Wallet's October listing for best savings account bank bonuses and see if any are HYSA.

biophazer242

I use etrade. They give me 3.75 right now. I deposit funds directly into the checking account on etrade which I use for my regular bills and then I move the cash into the HYSA. If I choose to use the funds for a trade the money transfers instantly over to my brokerage and if I need them to pay a bill I just move it right back to checking.

reserved_seating

I personally like a money market account since you can pay from it where a HYSA you traditionally cannot. Earning interest on your debit account funds is a nice perk.

Negrom

Someone already mentioned it, but +1 SGOV. Likely having another rate increase here soon, and is already at or above most HYSA for returns. As a big added bonus, it’s not liable to state income tax like HYSA’s are (assuming you’re in a state with income tax). My wife and I maintain a small $5k liquid cash pool in our Amex HYSA, and then keep the entirety of our savings/emergency fund in SGOV.

Inevitable_Ad6868

I never liked the name HYSA when it’s paying less than the very safest government MM funds. High compared to zero but literally lower than any other actual investment.

DaemonTargaryen2024

CapitalOne, Marcus, Ally are all good. AMEX doesn't jump off the page as having competitive rates, but if it's good (and I have to assume FDIC insured) then go for it. A money market fund in a brokerage account might have slightly higher yields than a HYSA. It's virtually just as safe, but is maybe 1-2 days slower in accessing funds than a HYSA.

Fauked

If you invest 10k per year correctly let it compound annually via stocks, ETFs and HYSA etc you'll be good. But 15% is stupid high for long term unless the market just keeps going up forever without correction.

diu7nei

never heard of this. can you point to an example HYSA account (let's say with a major bank) that has this upper limit?

URMomPaysFirMyCalls

The market always rips up the last couple days of the month while HYSA guys are trying to get the entire month of interest gains. Don’t ask me how I know.

Nukemind

Same. Born in a mobile home. Now a lawyer. I keep about 20k in my HYSA and everything else gets shoveled into the market. Now I have seen three draw downs and my response is always the same- keep shoveling in. I actually got a second job (full time tutoring) while allows me to shovel even more in with the hope of retiring early. Of course if we have a Dot Com or a 2008... I will DCA down but that willl be pushed out lol.

Sensitive-Exam649

dividned investing doesn't require a lot of captial to get started. Everyone just makes regular monthly deposits into the funds they want to invest in. For growth investing 401K or Roth accounts are great for grwoth. with VOO and VXUS or you could gowth with just VT. You don't what to invest in growth and then sell the growth toff in a taxable account and then reinvest inn dividneds. Because you will pay a lot in taxes when you'll the growth that is why many use 401K or Roth because the is no tax from selling in these account. Butyou cannot withdrawal money until age 60. In addition to starting the above you Need to exablish 6 most emergency cash reserve HYSA will work fine. But a money market fund in a taxable brokerage account will also work. If you cash reserve exceeds 6 months you should invest excess money Anything more the 6 month will do better if it is invested. You can deposit that money in a Roth to avoid taxes or you could invest it in the taxable brokerage Now many use gowth index funds in the taxable as simply an asset you can sell if you need more than 6 moths of cash. I howeverI prefer investing the excess in dividned funds. The cas emergency fund is great but it is limited to 6 months. If you are unemployed for more than 6 months that is a problem. SPIQ or QQQI are good sdidivndd funds o add. invest the dividned and add more money whenever you can Both have a high yield and are tax efficient. Oryou can turn off dividned reinvestment so that the money goes into your money market cash emergency fund. So the dividends help maintain your cash emergency fund and you can reinvest excess cash into the dividned fund. One time you will gradually build up emergency dividend fund that can replace or supplement your cash emergency fund. Ther is no limit as to how much cash you can get from the cash emergency fund.

PassableForAWombat

I filtered in a little at 5.1, just a HYSA with backing there. Rest is waiting in TLT/cash now.

AnimaLepton

About 20% between HYSA and Ibonds. I'm technically leaving some money on the table, but I'm fine with it. I want the cash flexibility to be able to take a sabbatical, down payment for a house, replace a car, and support my parents in case I lose my job. Staying employed and investing consistently is going to be the most important thing, so the mental confidence and strength I get from having that cash position is worth it to me. No traditional bonds or bond index fund

GreedyPomegranate391

Best move I made so far is to sell 1/3 of my AMD at $615, save some of the proceeds in my HYSA for taxes and expenses in the upcoming year, and put the rest all in ELF, CELH, MCD, AXP this year lol those stocks are doing well. I also put some in TQQQ and that's down, but I can hold that. And I believe AMD still has a long way to go, so holding it until $800 at least.

summersalt99

It would certainly hurt my portfolio, but I keep around 1.5 years of cash in a HYSA. I would expect I would still have my job and wouldn't need to touch this, as my expenses are lower than my income and in my mid-30's I'm not currently using my portfolio to fund my lifestyle.

Syndicate_Corp

It's not 4% returns though, it's 4% interest yield to pace inflation. You must also factor in taxation, as HYSA is subject to standard income tax. So really, you're getting <0.1-0.2% "return" on the premium between yield and inflation after tax.

Apherious

HYSA all the way, no-risk on 4% returns. Can’t complain

KabverozzG007

Wanting to get a solid portfolio setup for my ROTH and personal brokerage. 21yr. US. I can comfortably max out my ROTH. No employer match. I can also put some into a brokerage account, however it's currently in a HYSA. Whatever I don't put into my ROTH will be for a house. No rush. Would like to downpayment on a starter townhouse in about 5 years. Looking for lowrisk. I have my fun investing money set aside from when I have lighter months ;) Have VOO, SPY, and NVDA in a personal brokerage. Nothing in the roth that is meaningful. 25% of my paycheck is to monthly expenses, about 50% to retirement and investing. No loans, no debt. Just looking for a place to park my money in my ROTH tbh. I don't mind having my money sit in a HYSA, but I do want my retirement to compound sooner than later.

Forsaken-Mark-1898

All of my money that is outside of the brokerage is in equities. I keep the CASH inside of SGOV because its safe and its primary purpose will be to hedge against SoRR with a secondary purpose of funding ROTH conversions. As of right now, it serves as my Emergency Fund instead of having a HYSA but I understand where you're coming from.

Newbiewhitekicks

r/Fidelityinvestments, Vanguard, and r/Schwab are all real brokerages, and excellent choices. If you choose Fidelity, then use FSKAX/FTIHX. Vanguard is VTI/VXUS and Schwab is SCHB/SCHE/SCHF. Dividends haven’t been a useful investing tool for over a decade and in general are not needed. Total return is all that matters. If you need cash; sell stock. Dividends are just a forced sale; a performance drag; and a tax drag. Essentially, you’ll have more money if you don’t invest in a dividends. You can keep your saving in your money market account in Fidelity, Schwab, or vanguard; most HYSA don’t actually return anything. Some other resources to explore: r/portfolios, r/bogleheads

bkkmatt

Basement dwelling idiots. He doesn’t hold any of the stock. If you like 2-4% gains on 500K, just park it in a HYSA.

0o0o0o0o0o0z

> I have a little under 2 yrs until I retire at 59.5 and my question is in regards to 401k contributions. My company matches 50% of the first 8% that I contribute. I currently contribute 17% but I'm thinking about dropping that to 8% and then using the 9% increase in my paycheck to build up my CASH reserve. TBH, I tell everyone to do this: put it toward the match, then put the rest into a HYSA/MM or your normal retirement investment portfolio. You should never rely solely on a 401 (k) or SS.

Samjabr

I asked claude to evaluate my portfolio, it suggested I close my account and move all my $ into a HYSA 😢

PassableForAWombat

That's not even that defensive now :/ HYSA only beats out inflation barely

Most_Atmosphere8365

If the market doesn’t eventually start trending upwards again we got bigger problems than worrying about retirement 😂 that would be when bread lines start forming, people need wheelbarrows of cash to buy a loaf, and riots start happening as our economy hypothetically crumbles into absolute oblivion. I would concur that I think the market ***may*** see a nasty downturn in the coming years since there was essentially a bailout during Covid that kicked the can down the road. If you truly feel that way then stick with a small recurring buy to at least start building a portfolio or maybe even a smaller one time buy then set recurring purchases, and save the big lump sum for when a downturn starts to flatten or reverse so you can really press the gas and utilize your large sum of capital for when it means the most. But keep in mind that a bubble can continue for years. Could be 2030 or even later when a true downturn happens. It could also start in December of this year. Idfk and anyone who tells you they “know when” is absolutely lying through their teeth. There’s a saying “*time in the market is better than timing the market*” which couples wonderfully with the saying “*the markets can remain irrational longer than you can stay solvent*.” Essentially we can’t see the future, so stop trying to see the future. Just recurring buys, and when you see the opportunity to be aggressive don’t hesitate to be aggressive. Someone did a backtest where if you bought ***only*** at the very top before every major downturn your portfolio would still have roughly tripled from the top before the dot com bubble to now if I recall properly. Idk if Fidelity does partial shares, some brokers do, which is great if you can only afford to siphon off like $100-$200 a paycheck if the ETF you’re accumulating costs like $700 per share. You wouldn’t have to wait months to get one whole share, you could just get 1/7th of a share every payday. Also, short-term T-bills are a good idea if you wanna save the lump sum for a downturn and have well over the 6 months of emergency funds that you don’t wanna keep in one place. Rates are really good right now for T-bills (one of the reasons people think a crash coming is because the market is pricing debt (bonds) as if a crash is near), I think a 1yr T-bill is *almost* 5% return currently which is comparable to any HYSA but the rates on bonds lock in and your HYSA can change rates. The other side of it is that your money is locked up too in a bond so there’s pros and cons to everything (you could of course sell the bonds early but bonds are their own animal with par values, yields, taxes, etc.. I learned all about those fuckers when studying for my Securities Industry Essentials exam)

Most_Atmosphere8365

If you’re long-term investing just choose a reputable broker instead of some shady offshore BS, Fidelity is fine. You only start needing more expansive/comprehensive broker platforms for more complicated forms of trading like scalping. Basically any S&P 500, NASDAQ, or broad market ETFs are good. Always have most of your portfolio in these types of vehicles; these are the retirement prep. If you wanna find the next NVDA use a small portion and be prepared to be wrong. Finding the next “big one” is called speculating. That’s a fancy word for guessing with your gut, which is unreliable. Dont try to pick single stocks, don’t try to time anything; just invest small amounts consistently (maybe with a small lump sum to get you started, ensuring you keep at ***least*** 6 months of emergency funds in that HYSA). In terms of saving for retirement, boring is better. Let compounding do the work for you. In the event of a big pullback during a recession or depression, don’t panic and sell; look at it as an opportunity to get more shares for less money. This is why as you get closer to retirement you diversify into fixed income assets because you won’t have the time to recover from drawdowns and protection of capital becomes the focus instead of growth. If you dump $10k into VOO and we get a 50% crash in two years, don’t think “I’m down $5k” but rather “I can triple my position for the same $10k and ride the next wave up.” Imagine this; VOO is @$700, you can get \~14 shares for $10k. Next year say it crashes to $350. You can now get 28 extra shares for the same $10k, and you have 42 shares total now. If it goes back to $700 your position is now worth $29,400. This is obviously a hypothetical scenario, just giving an example. That’s why I hate bailouts; it strips young investors of the opportunity to buy valuable assets for cheap because the old fucks want daddy to save them. Crashes are good; they bring ample opportunity for younger generations with less wealth accumulated to size up and build their portfolios for the next bull runs. Here’s some interesting comparisons from the bottom of ‘09 versus current valuations of well known companies: ***Apple (AAPL): \~$2.50 -> \~$340*** ***Microsoft (MSFT): \~$11 -> \~$530*** ***Amazon (AMZN): \~$3 -> \~$262*** ***Walmart (WMT): \~$13 -> \~$119*** ***Oracle (ORCL): \~$7 -> \~$129*** These crashes suck absolute ballsack for someone 3 years from retirement who didn’t shift to capital protection like my asshole of a grandpa (he truly is an asshole); but for those young guns out there these types of opportunities don’t just provide solid returns, they provide life changing opportunities. The ‘08 crash scares the shit out of my parents and they went fixed income for the last 18 years when really they should have doubled down given they both *still* work (and will for a few more years) so they had ample time to ride out a recovery in the event of a subsequent downturn. Now they both spend every other day going over their retirement numbers, pensions, etc. because they stuck themselves with 2-3% earnings for almost two decades and grew almost nothing. I wish I had the knowledge then that I have now because they’d be rolling in dough, but alas I was a little tyke back then worried about what pizza we were having on Friday. My mom had one pension that was stuck on the market and she couldn’t change it to fixed rate; that one pension has done 150% over the last \~20 years, meanwhile their fixed rates haven’t even really touched 1/3 of that. When you see and feel financial struggle firsthand it gives you a drive to learn like you wouldn’t believe. Just keep learning and keep diving. Asking questions means you’re in the right direction. Best of luck to you.

ChainmanAtHeart

Fidelity is fine but it’s hard to read for a beginner. Robinhood is criticized for complex reasons and is easy to use. It shows you better graphs and makes things easier than any other app. As long as you don’t mind it trying to sell you Robinhood gold. Dividends are good, but the rule of thumb is: dividends always underperform the market. If you’re going to put the money right back into the market, why use dividends? Generally dividend stocks are for people with a family or retired people who will spend the cash payouts on stuff they need, in lieu of watching number go up faster. Don’t invest money in stocks you might need in the next 5 years. If you invest and 2008 happens tomorrow, we’ll look like idiots for suggesting it. Step 1: max your 401k match if works offers it Step 2: keep six months of expenses in an emergency fund. HYSA is good. Bond funds are also good because they don’t go down in a crash. I keep mine in SGOV which pays 3.8% Step 3: put the money you’re saving into VOO or VT. The other funds you listed are fine. Step 4: Turn brain off. Seriously. The more you know, the more you think you know. The more you think you know, the more likely you are to make changes. Changes lose money. Patience makes money. Nobody knows what will happen next year. But I do know that the 7% average return will pan out by 2037

jquest303

Besides the 401k and HYSA, I keep about 10k in cash in my safe at home. I’ve got enough invested to create wealth long term. I like to have a physical buffer at home for emergencies, just in case.

Valvador

I'm assuming you meant HYSA, not HSA, right?

abeBroham-Linkin

SP500 index or an HYSA would be a safe bet, until he learns about investing.

interpreterdotcourt

I recommended a friend put his 50k into a HYSA with Marcus and I was even nervous about doing that.

Forded_Fiction24

Hysa Weathfront for emergency savings. Ally HYSA for more goals savings or incidental expenses that aren't true emergencies. SGOV holdings within our brokerage as a 3rd source of savings that would take 3-5 business days to get the money. Also have some very liquid assets that can be sold at any time otherwise but would be a contingency plan in a very large emergency 

Historical_Low4458

You should move your money to a HYSA where it is earning ~3.5%

AnselmoHatesFascists

A total 5% of their entire portfolio in theS&P? They could have the rest in other investments such as individual stocks, bonds, HYSA, international etfs, etc. We prob need more context to understand what they meant.

Hofnars

I've got 2 pensions that will take care of my retirement needs, my retirement wants are going to be taken care of by my 401k. 401k contribution (including match) is an average of 15% for the year, higher in winter, summer only upto company match and reduce automated contributions to other savings vehicles as well to free up money for recreational expenses and avoid dipping into savings for that. Roughly 10k in a HYSA, which will cover everything except a new roof in terms of emergencies. Everything else is going into after tax ETF's. Initially figured that if shit ever hit the fan I could sell those to cover, and if not it would grow faster than the HYSA. I've been doing this long enough to come out with a net positive, even if I were forced to do this during a downturn. After dialling in my expenses in terms of 'what things do I need to survive' I also don't maintain a budget. Everything that's left over at the end of the month goes into ETF, or replenish savings when neccesary. Pensions are nice, but they are not free. I imagine that without I'd be able to have make this work after increasing the 401k contrinutions, adding/maxing a Roth before going after tax ETF's. Sorry there's no math or ratio, I tried that and was never be able to stick since my expenses vary seasonally and either felt like shit sticking to it or lost the drive to save altogether when I didn't. It took me longer than it should have to realize that limiting expenses was more effective than forcing myself to save, but now that I've been there for a while it's done well for me.

Swred1100

Time horizon <3 years, generally HYSA, bonds, etc. Something with 0 risk. Time horizon 3-5 years, you can start taking some risk. Say you want a $50k downpayment saved in 4 years, you’d need to save $1,041/month. Maybe split that 50/50 broad ETFs and HYSA, bonds, etc. Time horizon 5+ years, equities.

steelnomad

HYSA bro here and beatin all yer asses 😂

throwawayawayayayay

If $110k is your 12-months of expenses and you're young with no house or car, then you spend way too much money. But the general answer to your question is that you should think of your positions as a scale of high risk to zero risk, with individual stocks being highest risk, then sector funds, then total market funds, then bonds, then CDs/MMF/HYSA, then physical cash. You determine your allocation strategy in terms of either percentages or fixed amounts. Figure out your range of tolerance for each. Then you adjust as needed - too much physical cash? - deposit it. Single stock rocketed to the moon? - sell some of it and buy some VT. But the key thing is that when you're young, you don't really have exposure to most emergencies. You're not going to need to call an emergency plumber in the middle of the night or have to stay out of work for a week with a sick kid. If you have no life obligations and you keep encountering emergency expenses, that's just bad planning and you should correct your expectations. And always have some cash on hand, including small denominations. You don't want to be in the aftermath of an earthquake or flood or power plant failure and be trying to buy drinking water with a credit card.

interpreterdotcourt

I have very little in CDs (just no penalty ones) and I think one locked in CD ladder set to open up every 3 months. yes I have the Tbills to avoid income tax in my state. quite a bit in some 4.5% HYSA (marcus but it's a hustle to get referrals only 3 months rn .. that was basically my question I only plan on doing this for a couple months , then diving into the market.

mightysockelf

Those are not all the same vehicle. If you invest into a traditional CD, you'll have early withdrawal penalties if you decide to get out before maturity. If you buy a short term secondary, you risk price fluctuation. T-Bills are fine, but the short term ones sometimes are no better than a brokerage money market or HYSA, and they'd only benefit you if you're in a state where you'd otherwise pay taxes on investment returns. If you're wanting to stay ahead of inflation on a higher amount of money, a 4%+ HYSA is fine for a year or two until taxes on interest pull it under. A higher interest Treasury will work for maybe a few years.

MaxDragonMan

If you're pessimistic, sell it all, put it in a HYSA or GIC, and hold until you feel better. These losses are pretty bad - best thing to do now is accept you're bad at it, and is to start saving, put that 42k in the S&P or a broader index fund of your choice, and start to just rebuild that pile and let compounding and time do the work.

Historical_Low4458

Money you need for short term expenses shouldn't be in the stock market. If you want to buy a car, etc, then that money should be in a HYSA (not the stock market).

GuidetoRealGrilling

Whatever I allocate for savings I split 75% HYSA savings 25% investing

Sea_Cry_3968

I sold everything early this year because that account was extra play money from an old 401k I cashed out about 8 years ago. Turned 8k into 50k. We had a savings account but it wasn't nearly substantial enough for our liking. I also realized that I became obsessed with checking stocks every single day waiting to see if I was making the right decision to hold or not. After selling, I deleted yahoo finance and stress I didn't even know I had disappeared. I have a very substantial retirement at work so making the decision to have a big goose egg emergency fund was the right decision for me and my family. It's now sitting in a HYSA and it's making about $120 a month which is good enough for me. Will I regret it long term when I probably could have turned it into a few hundred thousand, especially when half of it was in Nvidia, maybe. But my comfort and peace of mind today and for many years to come is priceless to me.

DontForgetTheDivy

There are a lot of options between these two. SGOV is basically HYSA and TLT is too much duration risk. SHY or IEI are options.

__redruM

The easiest thing is to time your planned big expenses such that they don’t occur with market crashes. You decide when you buy a house, you move the money to a HYSA when you start actively looking.

lasooch

And if it’s sitting in a HYSA, even if you withdraw 4% you keep getting inflated away. 4% is the SWR to withstand SORR but assuming higher average growth than HYSA. Not to mention if rates drop (whether tomorrow or in 10 years) you won’t be getting 5% there. u/Weekly_One8412 you may wanna research FIRE, we’ve got this stuff figured out, what you’ve got there is not it sadly.

drummer820

Smart plan under the circumstances man, take profits, throw a lot of it into a CD or HYSA and rest easy. If you are gonna retire in the next year or two it would be insanely risky to be deep into equities in this climate. If there’s a crash you can buy back in cheaper

TheSplines

Keep two years in HYSA as a buffer for downturns and put the rest in all equity index funds.

pk_12345

Assuming you’ll get 5% in HYSA for rest of your life?

TheAsianTroll

Retire and enjoy your life. 16 million in a HYSA will enable you to never work again and survive strictly off interest.