Reddit Posts
I freed up $80k because I will most likely need it in 12 months. I put it in FNSXX mutual fund. Is this a better option than a HYSA?
Just quit my corporate job at 31 with $140k saved.
60 VTI/ 30 VXUS/10 VMFXX. Should I (33) rebalance to include bonds?
Sitting on $250K in HYSA. Nervous about putting in the market right now.
About to get an inheritance. Don't wanna screw it up.
Short-Term Investment Options for $10K/under
3.5% a year seems more appealing than being in this market rn
After 200% gains - i’m out. (B-B-BUBBLE!)
Automated investing for retirement accounts (fidelity/schwab) vs picking your own distributions. The good vs the bad. Discuss
Am I On The Right Track For Retirement? 29yo Portfolio
I’m tired of watching the market. $200,000 in my HYSA - I’m ready to join the squad!!!
Is Wall Street Bets a legitimate strategy what should I buy besides VOO ?
Next years Roth contribution sitting in HYSA
What my "trading" habits have been reduced to. Roast me.
21M, $-22 in the bank but i will reach my goal by 30!
Where should I park emergency saving HYSA or SGOV
I am at a crossroad in my mid 20s of what I should do, I'd be very appreciative for some advice
HYSA account closing. Where should I invest USD 1.5m cash?
F30 with $100k in cash just rotting in savings accounts. Help me actually do something with it
Felt hopeless in life and turned it into a miracle.
Help me re-balance my portfolio: 31F, single, hoping to buy a home in VHCOL area in near future but also work as little as possible?
A $337K Bet on the Future: The AI Stack + Space Thesis
When buying a house, good idea to sell stocks to help with a larger down payment?
31 Sharing Investments - Need Advice on Balancing
Retiring in within 2 years. Short-term bucket strategies?
Have another $200K to invest in. Should I put another $100k all in VTI right now?
Different accounts under different brokerages and banks
Edelman vs ?? anything else for investing $300,000 sitting in a Wealthfront HYSA plus $240,000 in an old 401K at Vanguard (2045 fund)
What to do with $15k? CD? HYSA? Dividend Stock like KO?
What to do with 25k cash and 2-3 year time horizon?
What's the best investment allocation for monthly leftovers?
27, decent income. No clue how to invest properly, what would you do?
It's perfectly ok to feel lousy about losing money and it's also ok to still feel lousy after you've heard all the typical responses
Is there any safe way to escape dollar devaluation without gambling on crypto?
Would your capital allocation change if you had access to 8-9% risk free time deposits?
i posted earlier asking what % of funds you put into stocks. Now I want to put more in the market...thinking of going big into msft.
23F – Roth maxed, 6% to 401k, $200/month from HYSA… should I open a brokerage and invest in S&P?
Inherited half a million in stocks. What would you do with it?
Looking to move 95% of savings out of HYSA to market fund for long term hold. Which one do you suggest?
VTINX (Vanguard retirement fund) as a medium term investment in a taxable brokerage account
Savings During Capital Rotation and the War On Globalism
Schwab money market fund, what I am not understanding?
Can someone help me understand what the hell I’m doing with my cash
Hierarchy of Risk in Terms of Different Accounts such as Roth, IRA, HSA and Taxable
What percentage of your investments/savings do you keep in a HYSA compared to stocks/funds?
24 y/o trying to get off to the right start. Suggestions?
Moved HYSA funds to brokerage for investment towards a down payment, medium term length at about 7 years.
Asset allocation for continuous USD devaluation
I don't really know what to do with some of my money due to the current political climate where Should I put it?
I don't really know what to do with some of my money due to the current political climate where Should I put it?
Looking for feedback on overall investment strategy + Solo 401(k) allocation (high 1099 income, early retirement goal)
Mentions
0DTEs? Yeah don't spend money on stocks anymore. HYSA is probably more suitable for you.
Work on your old man port and just DCA into an index etf such as SCHX Timing is hard, frequent timing is harder. Plan on holding index ETF for ever. Have a line of credit available or HYSA account money to not be forced to sell. Slow and boring may make you happier Your degen pile should be fun and not bring you so much stress. (Well sometimes it should stress you out)
IBM yield is 3.10% now. Same as HYSA with potential upside. 😂
SGOV is such short term treasuries that it's basically a money market fund, and about 95%+ of the distribution amounts are state-tax free (depending on the state). He might be able to get a few basis points more in a HYSA, but there's nothing wrong with using SGOV for an emergency fund except that when you sell, it takes a business day to settle before you can take out the cash.
Dollarsavingsdirect is at 3.35%. Apple’s HYSA is at 3.4%. There’s no shortage of HYSA options over 3%.
" I will Teach you how to be rich" by Ramit Sethi. Excellent book. Brokers: Either Fidelity or Charles Schwab. Investing operations for those earning less than $153k per year (including bonuses): - Contribute to your 401k/403B plan pre-tax up to the employer match. Usually 3-6%. - Build up to 3 months worth of your routine monthly survival income in a high yield savings account (HYSA) or Treasury fund within a taxable brokerage account. Make sure it has 3% or higher interest. This will be emergency savings. - After building up emergency savings, then open a Roth Individual Retirement Account (Roth IRA). It offers tax free retirement gains. Invest 80% Total USA fund and 20% International. For Fidelity that would be FZROX and FZILX. For Schwab that would be SWTSX and SWISX.
SP500=if your retirement horizon is 10+ years Everything else: HYSA/SGOV/Money Market/CD=whichever has the better rates and most convenient for you.
You're trolling. FNSXX requires a minimum of $10 million. That's seven zeros. Two commas. For 12 months put it in a HYSA or SGOV if you live in a state with high taxes.
FNSXX has about a 3.67% to 3.88% interest rate. HYSA, you will be lucky to find anything much more than 3%.
If you know when you’ll need it, you can toss it in a CD so you have a guaranteed rate. HYSA or mutual fund can shift. So really breaks down to your risk tolerance.
HYSA can barely keep up with inflation now. Your personal risk tolerance should decide.
1-5 years : HYSA or MM (possibly state tax exempt) 5+ : index fund (maybe a little allocated to individual stocks if you want to put in the extra work)
2 to 10 years is very wide. Will you actually need the 20k in 10 years? I assume you would save so much more in 10 years to the point 20k won't make a difference for whatever expense you are going to have? Do you have any other savings? How much % is this for your total portfolio? Hard to answer without knowing anything. If you wanna stay safe go for VTV or BRK.B . HYSA or Bonds would be safer but thats just losing money to inflation at these rates.
2-10 years is a weird range. For 2 I’d definitely just keep it in HYSA, but for 10 the S&P no doubt
You can always do a portion in HYSA/short term bonds, etc and a portion into stocks. Generally I’d say biggest drawdown is like 40%. Given flexibility with time I’d say more like 25%. Find the max draw down you’re comfortable with keeping in mind the higher it is the more you can make. Ex if 12.5% is stomachable do 50% cash 50% stocks.
You're gonna have a tough time finding something really low risk with good returns. Stick with t bills or a HYSA
1+ years: HYSA 5+ years; bonds 10+ years: ETF
so strategy now holding 3 BILLION in cash, skipped buying BTC again you regards are buying an overpriced HYSA
1. Sell 70% 2. Set aside 20% of that to a HYSA for your capital gains you’ll pay 3. Take $1,000 out in cash, go to a really nice dinner or treat yourself and your family/friends over the weekend 4. Put the rest in $VOO and CHILLLLLLLLLLL to retirement
i agree i cant time the market, but i also went from 8k in my account and a 160k loan on a condo in 2020 to now owning a 715k house mortgage free, 1.1 million in my investment portfolio ready to slowly deploy back into the market, another 500k in a 4% HYSA just hanging out making a few bucks on the sidelines. no student debt. two paid off cars. 2nd kid on the way. no credit card debt. i mean right now i am just taking a breath to realize how far i've come. and pause the "fomo" cuz right now i dont have any.
SGOV is basically the same as a Money market fund or HYSA. I would rather deposit money into a high yeild fund like QQQI 13% yield. and turnoff dividend reinvestment and and led the dividned fill a money market account. build that up to 5 most of cash Anything more than 6 month would be reinvested for more dividend income Eventually the dividned income may be enough to allow you to start funding the Roth. So now you have dividends funding your Roth and keeping your emergency fund full. Eventually you could start using the dividned income to also start covering some of your monthly bills. Which would indirectly allow you to increase your 401K invsitment. Eventually I added other dividned funds like SPYI 11% yield. EMO 9%, UTF 7%, UTG 6% and PFFD 6%. All these funds are taxed at ta lower rate than your work income and they pay montly dividends. My taxable account now generates enough inome to cover all of my living expenses. it won't fix your problems overnight. It take time to build up the divine income . And the more income you have the easier it is to invest for retirment.
Congrats on getting sober - that's the hardest part and you did it. Your plan is basically the standard priority order (401k match > Roth > brokerage) so you're thinking about it right. Only thing I'd tweak: SGOV for an emergency fund is fine, but once it builds up consider a HYSA for quicker access. The rebuild is a slow grind but the framework is solid.
If I really need accessibility Chime/Bancorp has a savings account at 3.75% APY with no fees or access restrictions so it’s close enough to an HYSA for me
An emergency fund shouldn’t be in bonds, you want that as liquid as possible while earning some return like in a HYSA. Otherwise good on you and make sure to at least hit that 401k match. It’s a marathon. Do others disagree about the SGOV thing?
Anecdotally that's me for sure. They say "If you want to buy a house in the next year, keep your money in a HYSA." Well I've been wanting to buy a house "next year" for like five years but the prices rise faster than I can save, so the HYSA ain't cutting it. The only way I think I'll ever afford a house is to put most of my down payment on the market and throw my "timeline" out the window.
No affiliation, but e-trade doing a 4% deal for their HYSA, locks in your rate for a while & pays a bonus. 100k would be like $333 a month in interest, plus the cash bonus.
I'm going to provide extra context, which I think this conversation needs. I opened my brokerage account in 2015 with the goal to get better gains than my checking account which had accumulated too much cash. Lesson/question/change #1: Why didn't I figure out HYSA??? At the time, my father was my coach. He was fully retired, 75 years old, and living on dividends, social security, and pension. His guidance, which made sense to me, was towards dividend paying reliable stocks of companies that we're going to fail. For example MMM or ATT. He told tales of stocks he "couldn't afford to sell due to gains/tax" and the neat companies he had invested in (BGS) that had done so well. It seemed he clearly had it figured out. In time, Dad has passed, I have taken control of his old accounts to provide for my mother. There is clear evidence of emotional investing, and choices he made clearly haven't all panned out. For example, the BGS shares he gifted me are now nearly worthless. Lesson/question/change #2: Dad wasn't a genius and didn't always get it right. Lesson#3: Emotional decision making is frequently not the best. However, my mother remains well provided for, even as her costs skyrocket in assisted living. Dad was a proponent of picking individual stocks. Through time I have largely moved away from this. I continue to hold individual stocks, which has generally been OK, but hasn't "beat the market". However, since my objective was to do better than my checking account, I'm doing very well. Lesson/change #4: Instead of focusing on picking individual stocks, using broad index funds is easier and quite successful. Lesson #5: Understand and remember your objectives. At this point, VOO, VTI, and DIA account for about 30% of my brokerage portfolio. A few big winner individual stocks and a few more funds (including SGOV) round out my top 10 holdings. Going forward, I will almost certainly continue to focus on adding to my VOO, VTI, and SGOV positions. I have benefited from and enjoyed my dividends. However, some of my worst moves have been "dividend chasing". At one point, rather than benefitting from the modest monthly dividend from VOO or the declining % yield from CAT I chased dividends in a bond fund RA. I'm about 25% down on that, and while it continues to pay well above 5%, fees will eat into that. I'd have been ahead to purchase VOO, CAT, or KO. Buffet has benefitted from dividend stocks, but doesn't pay a dividend... Lesson/change #6: Don't chase the high dividends, benefit from strong stocks that pay a modest yield. Time in the market....
My HYSA keeps going down 0.1 every 2-3 months.
To the financial investor defense, maybe it's what the guy had asked and CD-1% is quite comparable to what an HYSA gives you. I hope at least that it was not the financial advisor advice.
I'd tell them to at least invest it in a CD or a HYSA (something that's FDIC insured). But beyond that you can't and and probably shouldn't try to convince them
Im saying an emergency fund is a boomer mindset. Just invest your money in the market it’ll outperform some crap yield HYSA any day of the week. I can access any amount of that money and have it in my bank account within like 3 days. Why do I need to have 6 months worth of cash earning 4% interest when I can just withdraw from my investments. Sure I’ll have to pay taxes on that income, but I don’t see how that’s a legitimate problem.
It’s genuinely true though. In most things learning will always improve your performance. In investing that’s really not the case. Any time spent learning is honestly waisted time. All you need until you retire to know is open a roth, fill up your 401k to match, 3-6 months of expenses in SGOV or a HYSA and the rest in VT. Literally all you need to know right there.
Won’t be long and we’re going to have to remove that H from HYSA
Having 6-12 months of income in a HYSA at the age of 31 is a massive loss in potential compounding interest. If I need the money, I’ll take it out, and then some, to pay the taxes. This is entirely a non-issue
HYSA is always going to be short term since interest is paid monthly, CDs are different of course. But yeah, you're right about always coming out ahead if there's a gain. I do think an efund is worth it still just to avoid selling in a downturn, but for some reason my brain was just looking for a reason to argue.
You don’t pay taxes on your principal investment just the return. You literally cannot come out behind if the stock increased in value. You have to pay short term gains on your HYSA/SGOV if you pull it early too. They protect your downside it’s a risk/reward issue more than a tax issue.
why do you assume cash doesn't earn interest? HYSA have existed for a long time now
Nice to be able to avoid a large tax hit in a time of unemployment. Even if you have a secure job, having 6-12 months of salary in HYSA is a good idea. Brokerage account settlement fund works too.
If you are focused on wanting to make as much return as possible on your investments, don’t try to learn. People deeply deeply underestimate how competitive markets are, and to generate extra return, you have to have extensive skill and knowledge beyond anything someone not pursuing finance as a life passion can have. Just invest in the VT - total market equities fund, and a HYSA or TBIL fund for short term needs. If you are genuinely passionate about finance and are fine knowing that learning won’t actually increase your return, then go for it.
Those are likely risk adverse people who will panic sell if there's a dip and blame you for their mistake Just make sure they're at least getting a competitive rate on their HYSA/MMA
Keeping cash in a HYSA is safe. No real risk. This I believe is what motivated them to keep it in the bank without investing
"$1 you left in cash since 2020 is now worth \~78 cents in real terms. $1 invested in $VOO grew to \~$2.55 today." Most people are not actually leaving their money in their mattress. Cash is a loose definition. HYSA at 3.5% is cash. I also consider any of the physical trust I hold as cash. I wait and then deploy that cash when I see value in the market. Your cherry picked 6 year window with a very specific investment vehicle will not age well in the coming years if you are not diversified. Chart the S&P/ interest rates over the last 100 years. You will notice the the S&P losses half of those years compared to bonds. I’m not saying invest in bonds. Now chart the S&P compared to Gold, Silver, Oil, Copper, and the S&P is a loser for half of those years. Considering we are on a historical long run for the S&P for 16 years straight, and we are coming off the lowest interest rates ever during those 6 years, and commodities have been underfunded for exploration for the last 15-30 years, do you think there is possibly going to be a shift in where money gets invested over the next few years? Keep in mind, most of those companies in the S&P are at least indirectly related to said commodities. All the energy that is required to run those data centers and make those chips and mine those materials, all the silver and plastics and silicone and lithium, and helium etc… Prices have to go up to incentivize the exploration in these commodities at some point. And it’s at that point that money rotates out of the S&P and goes into commodities. Plus when these commodities go up in price the cost of business for Tech goes up. The S&P will eventually go through a stagnation period as the supporting infrastructures need a rotation of capital. At this point the S&P will be equivalent to keeping cash under the mattress for a few years. It’s just hard to tell when those years will happen and for exactly how long they will happen. All you can do is diversify out of the S&P and take some profits now, reinvest in some good valued areas, then rinse and repeat back into the S&P along the way.
Depends on percentage of your net worth. I’ve got basically 1 year of mortgage and bills in HYSA. It’s also probably only 5% of my total net worth that’s in retirement so it’s really not that much in the grand scheme of things. Not a bad hedge when you work in an industry that’s constantly laying people off.
Show them average inflation vs. average HYSA gains vs. average VOO gains. If they still don’t get it, don’t talk to them about money 🤷🏻♂️
SCHD seems about on par with HYSA rates to me
3-6 months expenses in tbills or an HYSA invest the rest
Everyone has different risk tolerance. They might be very risk averse and okay with HYSA or MM funds
On the r/retirement thread there are people proud that they have 2+ years of living expenses in cash or HYSA. I don’t know how old these folks are, but it seems like they’ve missed out on quite a bit. There’s being careful, and then there’s being too careful.
I honestly just keep DCAing index funds every paycheck and have 12 months of savings in a HYSA. No one can predict what the future holds and I don’t care what anyone’s take is on that subject.
Only if interest is not charged while she is in school, which is the case with some federal loans but if you do that you would want to make sure its a very safe investment like HYSA.
It’s all individual stocks, over 200+ stocks so that way there’s no expense ratio (since I’m obvs paying them, lol) I’m pretty impressed with their choices but have to admit I would NEVER have picked what they have.. They obvs have strong positions in the Mag7 stocks, but also BP, Amex, Lilly, ASML, CAT, Coca Cola, Citi, I mean I could go on.. Stocks from S&P, Dow, Nasdaq and spread fairly evenly across recognizable names, but they change their positions based on the market and trends… My portfolio isn’t heavy in any one sector, which I actually like, but I can’t deny the performance is astounding. Surprisingly I have no positions in RKLB or SpaceX as of now, but I did start my own brokerage account that only has like $115k in it where I try to “beat Fisher” but have never been able to come close. I basically follow the standard playbook that most people use: 50% VTI, 30% VXUS, 20% VOO, but I recently opened a $40k position in FSELX at the beginning of the year that has been performing amazingly, especially since I opened it in the middle of March, lol. I try to always have $100k in liquid cash in my HYSA so I can jump into a position during a market downturn. Trump made a pattern in his first term that I have been able to benefit greatly from, last year when he announced the tariffs I threw all of my $100k over to Fisher, and then this year when I saw he was getting ready to do the same thing in late January with the Iraq war I asked Fisher to exit my positions, gave them $60k and asked them to wait until March to reinvest, and that’s when I used the other $40k to open my own holding in FSELX.. But I’m not ballsy enough to do what you did!! And I gotta say, it will most def pay off, bc we have never had a President that has manipulated the market more, and I absolutely love it, lol
If you have any high interest debt (i.e. credit card debt), put it towards that first. If you don't have any savings at all, put it in an HYSA that you will try to build up to at least a months of expenses. If that's all taken care of, only then start to invest. Put it in VTI or VOO or something. Don't pick individual stocks.
First I want to congratulate you and your father for starting on this pathway. Too many people are scared to invest. Nowadays it is a lot easier to do so, and the way to grow wealth long-term (5+ years) has been well refined. 2 good books to read that helped me a lot are: - Millionaire Next Door by Thomas J Stanley. - I will teach you to be rich by Ramit Sethi. Lean about different retirement accounts (company sponsored and individual ones), active vs index funds, and ETFs vs mutual funds. Accept that investing into most individual stocks is far worse than a collection of stocks (index ETF or index mutual fund). The only exceptions are high growth stocks that are literally effecting an economy (Tesla, Google, or Nvidia). Also, the most popular funds are not always the best to apply in all situations. Mindlessly following VOO and VTI isn't the best thing to invest into in every account type. Some other investments have lower expense ratios, better automation, can be less difficult with brokers that don't offer fractional share investing, or better suited when turning on the breaks in retirement. Zero expense ratio funds with good performance are around. The only things I would have done differently, would have setup a HYSA sooner and invested into a Roth IRA sooner with my tax returns. However, the 2000s was a bad decade to start with far more limitations and fees. This generation has it far too easy, which I am happy for them. Just take full advantage of it. Avoid brokers with bad customer service (Robinhood and E*Trade). Fidelity, Charles Schwab, Vanguard, or SoFi are the best choices for long-term investing with good to decent customer service. At your age and using a custodial Taxable brokerage account, just get started with ETF SPYM. Lowest expense ratio for a good ETF and it follows the S&P 500 index. The S&P 500 index requires all the stocks in it to have 4 straight quarters of profits, so only winners.
Enjoy life. Stop worrying so much. People would chop their left nut to be where you are. I’m sacrificing now bi weekly to live free by 55 hopefully (I’ll lie to myself if I need to). HYSA, Roth IRA, personal trade account, 457b, city pension, private retirement acct. Next step is real estate but as a millennial… it’s hard to buy a house once you have your shit together unless your parents put the down payment. Not mad at it. But there’s always someone doing worse. Sit down, crack a beer and listen to the birds. It’s allllll gooooood
Sold my car, got 8k for it, threw it in a HYSA. cash pile secured ready for market death
Could use a bit more details to really providing meaningful advice, but to start: * 100k cash is probably a lot (depending on your expenses). At a minimum make sure this is in a HYSA. * What is the 200k managed account invested in, and who is it managed with? * What is your 401k invested in? * Your mortgage is no problem. I would not worry about what other people may or may not be doing. * Do you have an IRA yet? If not, you'll want to open that and specifically plan to perform a "backdoor Roth IRA)" * Any excess funds that are not going to 401k and IRA should be invested in a brokerage account. Feel free to reach out if you want to discuss more of this in further detail.
first off sorry for your loss, and smart of you to not just blow it. keeping some in the HYSA as your emergency fund is actually the right call, dont invest all of it. for the rest, open a Roth IRA (Fidelity or Schwab are both easy) and put money into a total market index fund like VTI or a target date fund, then just leave it alone. you dont need to pick stocks or time anything at 20, time is your biggest advantage. set up auto investing monthly with whatever you can comfortably spare and let it ride. one more thing, if the inheritance is a bigger sum, it might be worth a one time chat with a fee-only fiduciary advisor (flat fee, not someone selling you stuff) just to get a plan that fits your situation.
Hey everyone, I am a 20 year old college student seeking help as to where I should start investing. Recently a family member passed and left me a good sum of money in inheritance. Currently, I have it sitting in a HYSA, but want more. I know nothing about investing. I’ve listened to some podcasts, watched some videos, but none of it makes much sense. Does anyone have any advice for what I should invest in, where I should do it (brokerage), and how much (weekly/monthly)?
Pull it all out, put 30k back into the account. Live off the rest sitting in MFF, T Bills, HYSA, (whatever floats your boat where you can gain interest) play with the 30k like you did in the first place.
Please sir, put your money in a HYSA and leave it there sir
Hey, incase so of you newer guys didn't know, you can use SGOV ticker like a HYSA. Check your tax implications but if your money is in your brokerage, might want to just park it there.
Wealthfront offers 3.35% on HYSA. 90 days at 3.95 to start. If you invest even $1 in their individual market accounts, i think they incentivize up to 4.2% for the HYSA.
CD, HYSA and any other ones are meant for short term foreseeable future type purchases; within 3-5 years tops. If it's to stay there longer than that, it's better to put in a taxable brokerage account. Leave it in SP500 index and just leave it. It's up by near 10% this year, better than that 3%. I've split 50k(70/30) into brokerage/SGOV. Loooong way to go until retirement
Yeah that makes sense! Our current emergency fund is in a HYSA.
CDs don’t really make sense unless unless you have an expense coming up on an exact date in a year or so. Then they maybe make sense if you are afraid of the stock market. I’d always put my money in a taxable brokerage because I know I can pull it out if something were to come up. If you want to keep it out of the markets, honestly just do a HYSA the percentage difference is only like .5 and it’s all liquid
Thank You. So buy and hold SGOV to avoid capital gains and the monthly divvy is state income tax free. Versus paying taxes on the 3.3% I’m getting in my HYSA. Now it makes sense. Thanks for clarifying!
Not sure what your asking exactly. SGOV is about 3.8% currently. My state has income tax. You dont have to pay state income tax on SGOV, only federal. Pays monthly. Best ive found for the purpose of a liquidity. Most CDs and HYSA are in that % area without the tax benefit.
You will note also that the same person who is conjuring up the “all in at 2008” scenario also claims to have accumulated 300 pay checks and spent years saving in a HYSA. They put themselves into this position.
Effectively yes. I've spent many years saving in HYSA.
I sell when I no longer believe in the value of the investment. I also sell when something has massively outperformed and then drops a given percent (trailing stop loss). I'm also considering a change in strategy for long term losers. I've never sold at a loss which means sitting on losers for years sometimes. That creates substantial lost opportunity cost with those funds. I haven't decided on this strategy though. I don't sell to create cash. I keep a 6 month emergency fund in a HYSA and otherwise keep everything else invested. Most of my money is in a few index funds, with some in stock picks that rotate out based on the above strategies that I outlined.
I can't recall the exact numbers that I read about, but apparently money invested into Xbox by MSFT for the past number of years has been getting outperformed by a HYSA. Not exactly a big surprise that they're going to start cutting that type of thing after a few years of such performance.
In Amazon's case, it'd be like getting 6.5% return on a HYSA and you have a CC with a 3% interest rate. You'd be dumb to pay it off. Or paying down principle on a mortgage with a 3% interest rate when your HYSA pays your 6.5%. Something like that.
SCHD tracks the Dow Jones U.S. Dividend 100 Index. The dividend payouts are similar to what you'd get with a HYSA. Paired with the stock price appreciation, it just barely lags behind the S&P 500 in the long run. Generally, it doesn't suffer as much in bad markets but it doesn't go up as much in good markets. Though if you need some money now, it's a nice option to get some funds without needing to sell off anything. If it's in a taxable brokerage, you will pay taxes on the dividends for the year you get them.
Robinhood, Schwab, Fidelity, etc are functionally free for normal buying and selling. They do technically charge a fee for every transaction, but it's like not even 0.1% of the size of the transaction. There are some things that cost money. Robinhood for example has Robinhood Gold which is a $5 that unlocks higher interest on cash for HYSA, among other things. More advanced forms of trading might have fees on various platforms, margin trading also has an interest rate tied to it because you're borrowing money to invest (Robinhood Gold for example lowers this interest by like 15%). So free brokerages make money off users with these methods, and of course they can do stuff with your money to make more money like a bank does. This is basically how they can afford to let people trade on margin, for instance. Stock lending is also a thing they can do if you have it enabled, they'll essentially rent out your stocks (though whole shares only I believe) to people who want to bet against them, and both you and the brokerage get a cut of the fees. They're making very thin margins on every user but when the volume is very high, it makes lots of money.
What am I doing? I'm investing based on my risk tolerance, as everyone should be doing. A 10-30% pullback in stocks can occur at any time and may take 3-4 years to get back to even. Act your age (and circumstances). I'm a lot more risk averse now that I'm retired than I was 30 years ago. Capital preservation is achieved with a HYSA or BIL and other short duration bonds. Period. Have enough in those vehicles to get you through any rough patch. Emergency fund. For me, it's two years of expenses, but I'm retired with no other income. If you are a nervous or anxious person, then sell stocks down to your sleeping point. If you are concerned then lighten up on risk. The second worse thing you can do is be underinvested in a raging bull market, but it happens and you'll survive. The absolute worst thing you can do is sell into a crash. If you are going to puke at the bottom then you are too aggressively invested. The problem is that many (especially younger) investors don't know if they will panic until we are actually in the depths of a stock market meltdown. Investing is an adventure in self-discovery. Haha. It's all fun, good luck! Sleep well.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, STOP NOW, so you don’t off yourself when you lose 2 to 2.3 million dollars. I’ve literally seen that happen 2+ times on this sub. 2 MILL IS ENOUGH, GO BUY YOUR DREAM HOUSE IN CASH, AND PUT 100k IN A HYSA AND THE REST IN THE MARKET IN WHATEVER SHARES YOU WOULD LIKE
What is that? Explain like I’m low IQ and had my savings in a HYSA for the past forever years.
Don’t invest unless you have income. 1 year is not a long enough time frame to invest in equities. Money market or HYSA
>I handed in my notice last week after 6 years at a job that was genuinely making me miserable. What's your plan now? >I also have no idea what to do with it. With what, your savings? Did your company not offer a 401k? No retirement account to rollover? >I've been reading this sub for a month and the consistent advice is index funds, but I don't know how much to keep accessible vs. invest, whether to do it all at once or spread it out, whether I should open a Roth IRA first, or whether $140k sitting in a HYSA for a few months while I figure things out is a terrible idea. I'm planning to take 3-4 months off before my next job. The best time to open a Roth IRA is 6 years ago, the second best time is now. Start making your max annual contributions, but it's a long journey unless you can do a backdoor rollover from a 401k. >I don't need this money for living expenses for at least a year. So you have more saved beyond the savings you mentioned? >The only thing I'm pretty sure about is that I don't want to mix all my "money decisions" into one bucket. Generally you want a mix of HYSA, 401k, Roth IRA. >I've used small prediction market position on moomoo before, they made me more aware of sizing and purpose. A tiny event view is one kind of money decision. Funding a career break and buildin long-term investments is a completely different one. I'm really not sure what this means. >What would you do in this situation? Genuinely asking! I would start applying for jobs. I would put all the money you need access to into an HYSA, and then everything else into an international index fund and start contributing to your Roth IRA annually. When you get a new job, contribute to the 401k and take advantage of any company matching.
I’d keep a year of living expenses in an HYSA, open and max out the Roth, and park the rest in a low cost broad market index.
I have a HYSA with 4 months of expenses. I also have my 401k as a roth rn as well through my employer.
You can contribute for this year till April 15th of next year. If you think you can hit the $7500 by then just leave the brokerage. Once it's in the Roth you'll be penalized for accessing it early if you need it. Seeing as it's your first year you should be mindful of building an emergency fund in something like a HYSA before tying up money in long term investments. You may have an option to find a happy medium and change your 401k to Roth. This is available at some employers and some won't match Roth contributions but some will. Obligatory not a financial advisor
Some app I downloaded for the 5.5% APY HYSA at the time. Then I got curious about investing but it's a terrible platform, you can't just buy/sell normally like other platforms they actually choose when to execute and claim it's for your benefit. They went public late last year ($WLTH) but aside from the HYSA they're awful, can't even buy options lmao
I keep a paycheck in cash at home in case it’s a disaster and banks dont work or are closed etc. the rest I keep in a HYSA. I used to keep in bonds or CDs and just have them roll over on a cycle but that takes time to manage up front and with HYSA there is a lot less work involved. The HYSA is also not tied to any other account, or credit card.
SGOV as well. It’s exempt from state taxes and HYSA are taxed by state and feds.
So, after I've tried quite a few things, this is the easiest and more effective thing to do: 30k in a HYSA, 270K in an index fund and just ride the market. That's literally all you have to do. Some years will be down, most years will be up. In the down years, you still have your savings account for security.
Devote 3 months to build up some emergency savings in a high yield savings account (HYSA). The easiest way to do this is to open a Capital One savings account with 3% interest. They also have a $250 checking account bonus if you make their 360 checking your main checking account. After building up 3 months of your routine monthly spending, open an account with Fidelity. Invest into a Roth Individual retirement account (Roth IRA) and start investing into FZROX and FTEC. You will need growth to make up for lost time, so the FTEC ETF will cover that until you turn 57. Setup automatic investing, so you don't have to remember to invest every bi-week or month. Focus on staying employed and don't stop investing until your late 50s. \- 70% FZROX (Total USA index mutual fund). This fund has a zero-expense ratio; which is extremely rare and great for consumers. \- 30% FTEC (Information technology Sector). This is an ETF.
I keep about 3 months of bills in a HYSA and the rest in my ROTH IRA. I always know exactly how much I have contributed over the years which can be withdrawn tax free at any time.
1/3 in a HYSA and 2/3 in a brokerage account (50% BND and 50% SGOV).
IBonds, HYSA, and Vanguard money market
One year liquid in a HYSA @ I think 3.15% right now. I'm the definition of risk averse.
Safe, easy to access, and earns a bit of interest? HYSA- rates I found right now are like 3.44% If you want safe, earns a little more interest, but slightly less accessible? I’d through it in SGOV. Just know it could take a day or two to transfer from your brokerage account to your checking. Personally, for emergency fund, I choose high yield savings account. The money generally keeps pace with inflation so at least that way it’s not rotting away.
6 months of expenses in a HYSA. I use Wealthfront for the savings rate but invest with Fidelity.
For an emergency fund where I can have instant access to the money I use a local bank in a boring bank account (like a HYSA). The funds are available to me right now, and there's the bonus of being able to walk into the bank and talk to a real person. (Gettin' real tired of talking to AI agents on phone calls.) The interest rates are awful, but that's the cost of having the funds immediately available I guess? For slightly-less-emergency funds I have it in a cash management account (cma) with Fidelity. The CMA kind of acts like a bank account, but with the bonus of investing it in whatever you want, as well as just leaving it in a money market fund. Depending on the current rates I'll have it in a treasury-only fund (exempt from state taxes where I live), or a regular money market fund, or a floating rate treasury etf (TFLO or USFR for example, also largely state tax exempt). These are pretty stable funds that don't fluctuate a lot, so I really don't have to worry about selling at a loss, and they pay a little higher over money market funds. The CMA will take a few days for the funds to be available to me if I need it for an emergency, but that's what the local bank is for, so I'll still have something I can use immediately while waiting for the CMA funds to free up.
Where's your IRA? You've got plenty of emergency savings in that HYSA already, so start an IRA and max that next. Then it depends on your goals; if you aren't planning on any large purchases soon, start bumping up your 401(k) contribution rate.
Okay, so lower what I put in to the HYSA and more into actual investing portfolios? What app or investing website do you reccomend?
The first requirement of an emergency fund is it’s used for something that you didn’t plan but desperately need it. So by that definition it needs to be accessible and I can liquidate at anytime without paying a penalty (selling it at a loss also count as a penalty). \- savings account \- high yield savings account \- money market \- CDs I have them mixed in HYSA and CDs. For tiered funds. CDs locks in rate but minor interest penalty if withdrawn early. HYSA for primary emergency.
Wait so you are saying to not do any Ibond or HYSA? Is there something negative or unhelpful with them?