FNILX
FIDELITY ZERO LARGE CAP INDEX FUND
Mentions (24Hr)
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What’s the difference between FXAIX and FNILX?
36 years old - $1.35MM Net Worth - How would you optimize my wealth?
I just turned 17 and have made around 15000 dollars working as a server. This is mostly saved. Any recommendations investing?
How does my current Roth IRA portfolio look at 20 years old?
If you had, say, $5k to invest, and you had narrowed it down to three things: two index funds [Fidelity ZERO Large Cap Index Fund (FNILX) and Vanguard Total World Stock Index Fund ETF (VT)], as well as Series I Savings Bonds, would you:
Should I do anything with my Roth IRA or do I leave it untouched?
0% Expense Ratio Mutual Funds Vs Indexed ETFs
Is ARKK a good long term investment?
Using Fidelity Zero expense ratio mutual funds as a cash like position for trading
Index/ETF investing any tips on proposed allocations?
Im 18yo and ive been researching about stocks and investing
Mentions
For kids, I'd have my largest segment in the total market fund (FZROX). If you want to overweight large caps, add a smaller position in FNILX. The rest is just "how do you feel"? I'd probably include some international, but you don't have to. I don't think you need bonds at that age at all, but you might want some. Bottom line is, *"It don't bloody matter, within ±10%"*.
If you all your accounts are at Fidelity, then I would also reconsider holding FNILX, SPY, and VOO. Both SPY and VOO are essentially the same thing. FNILX being a large cap fund is going to be very close to them in performance. Holding all three of those doesn't really give you any extra diversification. I'd personally opt for just FNILX for a Fidelity holder. That doesn't mean selling SPY and VOO to move it to FNILX, if that would result in a tax bill. You could just contribute future contributions to FNILX.
Need advice (Fidelity Specific) Still have alot to learn about investing. I'm a new anesthesiologist with about 250K saved (150K in 401K from residency and 100K in personal stocks), no debt, high annual salary, no major expenses except rent. My personal stocks are all a mix of FNILX, FTIHX, FXAIX, FXROX, SPY, VOO. Also have about 15K in SPAXX instead of a high yield savings account. Currently set automatic 2.5K every 2 weeks to buy those stocks above. 1. Any advice on what funds I should in regularly? I want to be very aggressive 2. Is parking my money in SPAXX fine or should I get a high yield savings account? I like seeing everything in one place 3. Any other advice? I can afford to put more than 2.5K biweekly if I want to be even more aggressive
A Roth is a taxed advantaged account so yes - there you can move the positions around. All the funds you mentioned are Fidelity funds - I assume you have a Fidelity account. If so - if you plan to consolidate FXAIX and FSPGX - you may want to consolidate into FNILX which is basically a zero expense version of Fidelity's large cap index fund. FZIPX is Fidelity's zero expense version of FSKAK. See here for list of Fidelity ZERO funds - [https://www.fidelity.com/mutual-funds/investing-ideas/index-funds](https://www.fidelity.com/mutual-funds/investing-ideas/index-funds) As for allocation of holding a total US market index fund and a US large cap index fund. The reason why some people may choose to hold both is to have a heavier concentration of their portfolio in large cap funds even though the funds may be similar.
I'm with fidelity and currently in FBGRX, FZROX, FZILX, and FNILX. I know Financial planning is based on goals, i plan on retiring early, how early? That remains to be seen. I put about 65-70% of what I invest into FBGRX and the rest is distributed evenly. Is there a fund or other plan I should go with?
If you use Fidelity as a brokerage and plan to stick with them I can't think of any reason not to own their 4 zero ER mutual funds - FZROX, FNILX, FZIPX and FZILX. Sure there is some redundancy but you would have covered total US, Large Cap US, Mid and Small Cap US and the rest of the world in Developed and Emerging Markets. DCA'ing into those for the young is almost stealing compared to the options available say in the early 1970s.
I got into fselx maybe 18 months ago or so. I had left my job 4/2023 and consolidated the 401k and ira. I had 66k. I broke into 100k maybe June 2024. I was up to 119k as trump took office 3/2025, dropped to 83k in May and am at 163k as of today. It is volatile but it doesn't bother me at all. I am 29 and have 31 years to go. My portfolio is 68% FSELX. Personally I can stomach it and know I am already set for retirement even if I don't keep contributing to my IRA (I will anyway). Other holdings are FNILX 10%, FSPGX 11.2%, FXAIX 7.9%, SPG (1.4% real estate). Also have a separate brokerage account thats all blue chip individual stocks for about 30k that I draw from whenever it goes above 30k for real estate related investing. NGL I am considering re-allocating FSELX to more around 50% but the key here is your time horizon. I personally can't touch the money for 30 years so doesn't really matter in the short term. I would not recommend this kind of risk if you can't stomach watching "money" disappear and re-appear in your account though like I have just in the past 12 months lol.
To be clear, I don't think you need an advisor at all. I just don't get paying someone for their expertise and then farming it out to the Internet. Since you want the internet's opinion, I would put it in the lowest-cost indexes I could find, tracking 50% S&P 500 (FNILX), 25% International Stocks (FZILX), 15% US Bonds (FXNAX), 10% TIPs (FIPDX) and then I'd rebalance periodically. I noted Fidelity funds that track those but it can be any index.
FNILX is a good fund (not that you'll really notice the difference with VOO lol)
I'd say it matters who you invest with. If you are at Fidelity, then you would be better off with FXAIX or he'll, even FNILX. What investment firm are you using?
Those are perfect, I’m doing 70% FNILX and 30% FZILX. I just prefer the S&P 500, but we’ll all end up in the same place, or very close to it.
Hey everyone! I started up a brokerage account recently (21M). Along with a Roth IRA and HYSA. I’m still very new to investing, and specifically what to invest in. My goal is to use these investments for the long term, to just build wealth to my name for years to come. Some people I know invest in higher risk holdings to hit some home runs, but I want to shoot for singles and doubles. I have kind of a rough draft allocation setup based on my ideas. I really like the zero fee Fidelity funds. I’m going to use that as my core. I know overlapping isn’t necessarily bad? But I don’t know too much about it, or the specifics on how it could hurt/harm a portfolio. I know SPYG and FNILX, but I think it should be okay? Any advice or tips on my allocation or holdings would be greatly appreciated, thanks everyone! I’m thinking 55% FNILX 20% VXUS 15% SPYG 10% FSSNX
If you plan on holding it long term and dont plan on ever leaving Fidelity, FNILX would be fine in a roth and taxable
If one has a Roth IRA or a traditional IRA then FNILX or FZROX are AMAZING options. Zero fees, cheap shares and they essentially mimic the S&P 500 (in the case of FNILX) or a total US market fund (in the case of FZROX). They aren't portable, but if one is going the long haul with Fidelity, there is literally no reason to not make those two funds your workhorses.
My FNILX in ROTH IRA since September has gone up and down. So far the return is around 3%. I plan on buying Nvidia instead and see what happens. Yes this is a long investment.
> FNILX does not track the S&P 500, it tracks a proprietary Fidelity large cap index Which is not "automatically" a bad thing! Suppose that you determine, by statistical sampling, that you can get 98.6% of the performance/behaviour of the S&P 500 by buying only 350 companies? Such an index will be "Pretty Good", and probably cheaper than buying 150 extra companies that don't contribute to the overall performance. I secretly cling to the belief that just as much can be made from knowing which companies to AVOID, as which to SELECT.
FXAIX also pays quarterly dividends. FNILX doesn't. Mostly annual, so FXAIX might be better is held in a Roth and it also earns dividends. FNILX is only annual most years.
Fidelity has FNILX, Morgan Stanley has ETLGX
You are splitting hairs over a rounding error. FXAIX charges 0.015% (about $1.50 per $10,000 invested), while FNILX is free, and the performance difference is negligible because FNILX is essentially a “store brand” S&P 500 that saves Fidelity the licensing fee. The only actual downside is that FNILX is proprietary, meaning you cannot transfer it to another broker without selling it first. Since this is a Roth IRA, selling isn’t a taxable event, but it is still a hassle if you ever leave Fidelity, so just pick one and move on.
I use FNILX. Up 140 bucks since mid August. 2.4
The longest return period for FNILX on morningstar is 5 years. The 5 year return for FNILX is 14.58% The 5 year return for FXAIX is 14.91% They both consist of almost the same investments.
FNILX does not track the S&P 500, it tracks a proprietary Fidelity large cap index. I assume it's very close, but it's not actually SPX.
FXAIX and FNILX both track the S&P 500, so before fees their performance should be almost identical, and the tiny expense ratio differences only matter very slightly over long periods. Short-term return charts can look different depending on the exact date range and whether dividends are included, which is why you’re seeing conflicting claims.
Fidelity is top notch. You deserve to enjoy some zero expense ratio Fidelity funds like FZROX and FNILX after getting scammed by EJ for a decade .
META seems like a great long term investment at the moment. I would also consider buying FNILX so that you can diversify your tech stocks. YTD META grew 6.17% and FNILX grew YTD 15.52 which is better than S&P 500 and Dow Jones. I personally don’t expect META to do any better than its competitors so it might be great idea to diversify tech stocks through FNILX just in case. FNILX is not strictly tech fund but it is heavily invested in it. On the side note, if you are planning to buy high and sell low throughout the year it might be worth it to invest in META as you can make good penny from temporary highs. I do this with Amazon all the time. As always, do your own research and go with what you think might be best.
It doesn't make sense to me, but I'm the sort of person who gets ticked off if anyone suggests touching my money, let alone me paying them to mess with it. If I were in her/your shoes I would transfer the Roth IRA to Fidelity, replace GFFFX with GARP (better performance, lower expenses) and NFFFX with a combination of VYMI and either FXAIX, FNILX, or SPYM. Of course, I don't know what the current allocation is in your daughter's portfolio, but here's a quick backtest to show what it might look like when compared to GARP + VYMI + FXAIX -- and this doesn't even take into account the AUM fee being siphoned out of your daughter's money. [https://www.portfoliovisualizer.com/backtest-portfolio?s=y&sl=1NPb1B2eUs5EdCQZx0bwIm](https://www.portfoliovisualizer.com/backtest-portfolio?s=y&sl=1NPb1B2eUs5EdCQZx0bwIm)
If you dont plan on leaving Fidelity which I would imagine most wouldnt, FNILX would be perfectly fine in a taxable account. FNILX is a better choice because theres no fees.
For a 2–3 year goal, 100% in FNILX is a bad match; stocks can drop 30%+ and not recover by the time you need the car or down payment. What I’d do: park the next 12–18 months of the car money in a HYSA; put the house fund in a 3–24 month Treasury ladder at Fidelity with auto‑roll or a 12–36 month CD ladder. T‑bill interest is state‑tax free, which helps. If OP really wants some risk, cap equities at 10–20% and move that to cash 12–18 months before purchase; dividends won’t save you if the market tanks (S&P yields \~1–2%). This is what I used for my place: HYSA for near cash, then T‑bills and no‑penalty CDs so I could bail if closing came early. I’ve used Ally for HYSA and Fidelity for T‑bills; I’ve also mixed in no‑penalty CDs at Marcus, and a small MYGA via Gainbridge for a fixed 3‑year rate when I wanted to lock something in. Bottom line: for money you need in 2–3 years, use HYSA/T‑bills/CDs, not an S&P 500 fund
Well the FNILX has done nothing but go up in recent years (aside from a dip in April which rebounded by july/august), wouldn't it take a huge economic downturn to derail that steady and stable progress?
Roth, HSA, 529 are all good options. I'm currently going 50-50 in BTC and SPYM, but that's just me. Unless you want BTC exposure, then I'd recommend anything that tracks SP500 or Total Stock market or w/e. I was all in on FNILX before but wanted an ETF instead of a Fund, so I switched to SPYM. \----- If you think you'll need the money before retirement, you can invest it normally.
Drop seems inevitable and that was the part of reason why I sold off Amazon but I do not expect it to be 30%. Maybe it will go back down to upper 220s and lower 230s but at that point I might consider investing in FNILX to slightly diversify. Do you think I should stick with tech heavy funds like FNILX, maybe VOO, or look for the ones that are diversified across different industries and investment types?
I like VOO too but it is similar to FNILX so if I had to pick between two I would go with FNILX.
Lmao no way I gotta eat too. Another 10k to FNILX.
>If so, do not use FNILX. Not just because of the possible taxable gains I have FNILX for my Roth IRA and in a taxable brokerage I also have FNILX as well, but only about $140 so far. If I switch from FNILX to VOO or FXAIX in my Fidelity brokerage account (NOT MY ROTH IRA), how big of tax savings will that really make if I contribute let's say $500 a month in my brokerage?
I'm doing it now. Yesterday I sold out my dad's investments in the IRA I inherited from him, reinvested everything I could immediately, and was peeved that I had to wait for the mutual funds to trade at the end of the day to get the rest of the money. Now I'm mad that I have to wait until the markets open at 9:30 to place my dollar orders at market rate for ETFs and even more annoyed that I my largest order (FNILX -- the only mutual fund I'm buying) won't go through until tonight and I'm missing an entire day in the market with it. But maybe I'll be lucky and the market dips today and I get my FNILX at a discount tonight. Maybe I'll be unlucky and the market dips tomorrow. But this investment is for the long haul, so chances are good it will work out in the end.
I would stick with FSPGX over FNILX as it has performed a little better.
Why is the $8k in FXAIX but the $46k in VOO, which is the same index? This is inside a retirement account so the tax inefficiency of capital gains distribution of mutual funds is moot. Keep it simple. Since you want growth, skip SCHD and just stick with one growth index fund. And since you have Fidelity, consider their Zero funds instead, like FNILX or FZROX. The amount to convert depends on your taxable income. If you have plenty of room in the 12% bracket and you have time, then convert only up to the top of the bracket. If you're solidly in the 22% bracket then there's not much tax savings left so you might as well use up the 22% and 24%.
I give my friends stock tips, I do not invest any money for my friends. Tell your friend to open a brokerage account at Fidelity. They do all the work, their SSN, not yours. Invest the money in FNILX. this also sounds sort of fishy. is your friend from another country? is your friend's money made in funny ways?
I currently have a brokerage and Roth IRA open with fidelity. I’ve been investing in 4 Fund specifically in both . FNILX,FSMAX,FZILX,FZIPX. I’m doing a 80% domestic and 20% foreign split. For my domestic split in itself I put about 60% into FNILX and the rest split evenly into FSMAX and FZIPX. Is this a good split? I’ve also been thinking about putting 5% into crypto specifically bitcoin. Im 23 years old and just started a job with a salary of 54,000. I live at home and plan to go back to school again so this year is a savings year.
It's been a great performer for me. I have bought and sold some individual chip stocks along the way, but I chose the fund as my preferred method to own semis. I started in early 2022 and any time there's a significant dip, I throw a little in. The only ETF that some close is SMH, but I don't know that I can buy fractional shares in that. SMH fees are a little cheaper though. My basis in FSELX is 65% of what I have in FNILX (Which is really just an S&P fund.)
if taxable, pour money into FSPGX. Growth is better for taxable. If this is tax deferred, stick with FNILX and FZROX.
I'm going to propose a different kind of diversification, but hopefully one that will appeal to you. You have two very high expense, high turnover, actively managed funds. I would look for options that are low expense, low turnover, passively managed funds -- the kind that you can throw money at for the long term without stressing about whether one sector is doing better than another, the brilliant manager in charge of your fund has gone to a different company, etc. This is your buy and forget about it portion of your Roth. I am assuming you are a Fidelity customer or at least somewhere that you can buy Fidelity mutual funds without a fee. So, my proposals would be FNILX or FZROX -- depending on whether you want whole US market coverage or just large caps + either FSPSX or FZILX -- depending on whether you want your international holdings to be developed markets only or to include emerging markets.
Alternatively, if expense ratios bother you that much, then you could consider opening an account with Fidelity and invest in FNILX, rather than SPY or VOO. They offer a 0% expense ratio.
1. FNILX 65% 2. FZILX 25% (or substitute FSPSX if you aren't interested in emerging markets) 3. FZIPX 10%
You could split the difference and go with FNILX -- also a zero fee fund, but large cap only so it behaves more similarly to the S&P. [https://www.marketwatch.com/tools/fund-comparison?tickers=fnilx,%20fxaix&filter=returns](https://www.marketwatch.com/tools/fund-comparison?tickers=fnilx,%20fxaix&filter=returns)
Pick the one with the lowest ratio. I have SPLG in my brokerage and FXAIX/FNILX in my tax advantaged accounts.
Vanguard is fine, but for a Roth, Fidelity is a better choice. Why? Their Zero funds — NO expense ratio or other fees. You can put together a solid portfolio using FNILX, FZIPX, and FZILX, roughly 50/30/20. Yes, you have to sell positions before transferring out of Fidelity, but in a Roth there are no negative tax implications. Remember, the most important thing is not what you invest in, but that you earn, save or somehow otherwise find the money to invest. A great initial goal is to max out your Roth IRA. That’s $7K a year, just under $600 a month. Again, 95% of people spend 95% of their resources looking for the next hot stock or fund, and 5% of their efforts trying to max their contribution. Of course, it should be the other way around
Sounds like you're asking about a taxable account. If so, do not use FNILX. Not just because of the possible taxable gains, but if you ever leave Fidelity, you'd have to sell to move cash. Fidelity doesn't charge to purchase VOO so there is no worry about them not having their own S&P500 ETF Also, both of those are index funds. A mutual fund or an ETF that tracks an index is an index fund.
If you're at Fidelity, look at the four "Fidelity Zero" funds, see what their investment focus is. You might get rid of one or both of the Vanguard funds. (FZROX is Total Market. I don't remember the rest, but they're named along the same lines: FZIPX, FNILX, etc.)
Both are actually index funds. FNILX is an index mutual fund, VOO is an index exchange traded fund. VOO is the S&P 500. FNILX is technically not, but should generally behave very similar under normal circumstances (Tesla's delayed entry into the S&P 500 until it was worthy of a top 20 spot did result in a notable gap between them a few years ago though). >I put allllll my savings in a brokerage account Hopefully not your emergency fund or anything else you'd need in the next 5 years (at minimum). >I'm learning that index funds are "Less tax efficient...selling within the fund may trigger capital gains for all holders" an etfs are "More tax efficient uses “in-kind” creation/redemption to minimize capital gains." Mutual funds, not "index funds." However, FNILX is very tax efficient, to date they've only ever had a single capital gains distribution: in 2018. >Fidelity does not have an ETF like the VOO, but does have FXAIX and FNILX, zero cost, but they are index funds. Mutual funds, not ETFs. Fidelity is free to trade on ETFs, so there's no issue using VOO. >So how do I know if the tax efficiency is going to outweigh the expense ratio? You can't be certain. As shown above, the tax efficiency argument can be real some years (2018) and only theoretical in others (2019 through August 2025 so far). However, I'm personally more of a total market style person, and definitely be sure to have some international coverage as well.
Could just choose a Fidelity Zero mutual fund like FNILX. Or BKLC if you need an ETF.
Not sure if this is right place to put this. I'm finally starting out investing and using retirement accounts. I've done a bunch of research. I've got about a 32 year time horizon. I've never really asked for advice about this stuff. Here is my allocation: Roth IRA (represents 40% of my total portfolio): 35% FNILX (broad large cap) 30% XMMO (mid cap momentum, overweighted here because I can't get this in my other accounts) 15% AVUV (small cap value) 15% FZILX (broad international, developed and emerging) 5% AVDV (international small cap value) Roth 403b (represents 20% of my total portfolio): 65% VIIIX (S&P index) 15% DFFVX (small cap value) 20% VTSNX (broad international, developed and emerging) Roth 401k (represents 40% of my total portfolio): 65% SWPPX (S&P index) 15% DFFVX (small cap value) 10% SWISX (broad international, developed) 10% DCEFX (broad international, emerging)
My understanding is that if you are married filing separately, and either you or your husband has access to a workplace plan such as a 401(k) or 403(b), you cannot contribute directly to a Roth IRA if you make more than 10,000 per year. You should confirm that with a CPA or CFP though. However, you may be able to do a [backdoor Roth](https://www.fidelity.com/learning-center/personal-finance/backdoor-roth-ira). If it turns out you aren't actually allowed to contribute directly to a Roth, you will need to go through a process to retrieve the money and start over. Is your account at Fidelity (you mention buying a Fidelity mutual fund so that is my best guess). If so, you can make an appointment with an advisor at your local office who can walk you through anything you need to do with your account. And btw I think buying into FXAIX is a great plan :) With the rest of the 60,000, I would think about using some to pay down the car loans (depending on the interest rates), set aside more of an emergency fund, and use a bit of the leftover for a regular brokerage account. For regular brokerage accounts subject to capital gains taxes and so on, I believe it is best to have low expense, passively managed index funds. So FXAIX would be another good pick here. For my brokerage account, I have a mix of FTIHX, FNILX (only available to Fidelity customers), IUSG, and VOT. But whatever you pick, I encourage you to get in the habit of passively investing -- set up a regular direct deposit from each paycheck, or a regular fund transfer from your bank to your brokerage, for investing. I think you are doing really well to have bought a home, have significant equity, and cash savings! Don't be down on yourself, really.
S&P500 tracker, doing FNILX which doesn’t name S&P500 but should track close and zero expense, also buying FXAIX which does track it just to see how they compare QQQM- cheapest Nasdaq tracker FSPGX- large cap growth fund. Bought some when I was first deciding what to get, just leaving it and probably won’t buy more. Strategy now is to buy S&P500 when market is going up and QQQM when market is down. Idea is I think QQQM outperforms long term but downside risk is too much to be 100% in, I want more during recovery periods, less when markets are at ATHs (most of the time I know). Goal is to get historically avg S&P 500 returns and a little juice from QQQM when it’s recovering from low periods. Eventually when I’m ahead of target goals I’ll put excess $ into VTI and VXUS for more diversification.
No reason they should be different. Did you own either of those before you made those purchases, and did you buy any since? The overall % up/down on the main page of your account is an average across all your transactions. On MSFT I'm "only" up 45%, but if you look at the individual transactions, I'm up anywhere from 150% to 3%. Go to your individual account page, then clock on both VOO and FNILX, and look at the individual transactions and their dates.
So this sparks a question I've been trying to research for myself with little luck on the right answer. in mid January I bought some VOO ($315.93 a share) and some FNILX ($21.19 a share) from what I could see they both for the most part tracked the same stocks. Today VOO is at $585.58 a 13.47% increase FNILX is at $22.82 a 7.69% increase Using this site it says they are neck and neck with FNILX slightly in the lead. [https://portfolioslab.com/tools/stock-comparison/FNILX/VOO](https://portfolioslab.com/tools/stock-comparison/FNILX/VOO) I can't figure out how. It doesn't seem FNILX had a big run the 2 weeks prior to me buying but in my portfolio VOO is up substantial more. What am I missing? Is FNILX lagging because its only for Fidelity account holders???? Trying to decide which I want to hold long term and even with fees VOO seems to be better.
Yes. Dividend equally in FAGIX. FDGFX FGRTX. FMAGX. FNILX. FULVX I own all and have nice gains. You will too. Buy and forget
Mutual Funds it is for most busy people. FNILX, FZROX from Fidelity - 0% fee indexed stock funds. If you're absolutely in love with ETFs, BKLC from BNY, also 0% fee.
I’m not sure what 200SMA is but wonder if there is something to shifting between funds that track the same index. I dug into FNILX because it’s a zero fee fund but doesn’t actually name S&P500. I checked it against FXAIX and VOO and over various periods they do pretty much track each other. I notice day to day though there is a decent amount of variance. Considering history indicates they will finish within like less than .1%, theoretically you could shift back and forth buying up the underperformer and boost returns a bit. Guessing very small boost though and the transaction time leading to time out of market would more than offset the gains in the long run.
Fidelity SPAXX 1 yr return = 4.31%, current 7 day return 3.99%, expenses 0.42% Vanguard VMFXX, 1 yr return = 4.68%, 7 day yield 4.21%, expenses 0.11% I say use Fidelity for investing in FNILX the Fidelity Zero Expense Fund All my money is at Vanguard. I have quite a bit in VMFXX
I’m 16, U.S, part time employed part time student. Want to take advantage of compounding interest in Roth IRA, can max it every year. High risk tolerance and can rebalance later in life. Should I go higher risk like FTEC? Or just simple s&p 500 like FNILX (0 expense ratio w/fidelity).
All you need it FNILX and FZILX.
I'm late to investing. 40, USA. I finally paid off my high interest debt and have some income stability and I'm planning on retiring at 72. I was thinking of allocating my Roth IRA thusly: 65% FNILX (US large cap blend) 15% AVUV (US small cap value) 15% FZILX (International large cap blend) 5% AVDV (International mid/small cap value)
FNILX can only owned at Fidelity. If you want to move the funds, you must sell them creating a tax event. Honestly chasing less fees when they are almost free....
FNILX is not transferrable to other brokerages so you'd have to liquidate if you moved to Vanguard or another firm (not an issue in an IRA but could be a huge tax hit if in a taxable account). FXAIX is 0.015% fee, which is ridiculously cheap ($1.50 per $10k invested). I'd just go with that
There's barely any difference in the performance of SPY and VTI because tech moves the whole market, FNILX having a few differences from SPY isn't noticable.
FNILX typically outperforms FXAIX ever-so-slightly, and when I compare their holdings I see slightly heavier weight for FZILX in the top holdings like MSFT and NVDA. The 3 year sharpe ratio is also higher on FZILX. FZILX is not advertised as an S&P500 index, but it sure comes close and performs a little better. At zero expense, it sounds like a winner.
But FNILX seems like the same at zero. Ik it’s very small but if they are matching performance I’ll take the free money lol
FNILX is probably my favorite. Pretty much tracks S&P500 but in Fidelity account 0% expense ratio.
I ate a $10k loss on FNILX positions. Sold 2 days before the "good time to buy" tweet. So it goes.
Best is very subjective and, in many cases, negligable for most investors. It depends on what you need from the fund. There is no ticker that goes by SDPR for an S&P 500 fund. Are you asking about SPY? Or maybe SPLG? SPLG is 0.02% - SPY is 0.09. - VOO is 0.03 - IVV is 0.03 There are also lots of low expense mutual funds that track the S&P 500 index. SWPPX is 0.02% Fidelity has a fund that technically is not using the S&P 500 index but is a decent large cap index - FNILX has a 0.00% expense ratio.
No financial penalty from Fidelity, just that they would force you to sell FZROX (and any FZILX, FNILX, and FZIPX) before moving. This isn't an issue in tax advantaged accounts like IRAs, as you'd just move the cash and buy in at the new brokerage.
They are mutual funds. Like a stock symbol. Paste into your Stocks app or any finance website. I like FNILX for my extra cash.
**Looking for dividend funds/ETFS...** * 40 year old, currently living in Southeast Asia. * I do not currently have a paying job. * I want $2,500 in passive monthly income. * I receive my only income through rent \~$1,600 net monthly. I paid $370,000 in cash for a condo in 2022. It's probably only worth about $400-425,000 at this moment. The ROI is bad. * I have zero debt. I want to sell the condo and re-invest into dividend funds with a goal of getting $2,500 a month from dividends, after the sale of the property. Let's assume I will have $400,000 after the sale (I'm a realtor). I have $200,000 in other investments (50% between FTEC, FZROX, QQQ, FNILX, SCHG, FNCMX, ITOT) which I don't draw on for living expenses, but I don't mind reallocating. * What's the initial capital needed and selection of funds/etfs/stocks to get $2,500 in passive income after 2 months?
For \*starters\*, open an account with Fidelity or Schwab. Fidelity's SPAXX money market account is paying about 4% which is decent return for no-risk and has to be better than any bank it's currently in. And when people ask you for money you can say "Sorry, it's all tied up at my broker." Then open a Roth IRA and max it out every year; you'll thank me 40 years from now. After that you can research things like VOO or something like FNILX which is a large cap fund with zero expenses. Good luck.
Index providers are businesses - they generate revenue by creating, maintaining, and distribute the index as their product. So yes - if an investment manager decides to create a fund that is based on an index of an index provider, the fund would license the right to use that index. As part of the license subscription, the fund gets the rights to use the index name, data feeds on index constituents, etc. And yes - it is the fund's responsibility to manage the fund to the index - investors and portfolio managers that care about a fund's accuracy to it's stated index will look at a metric called the "tracking error". This is the metric that tracks the variations between the fund's NAV and the index provider's index value. An equivalent metric is called the R^(2), The R^(2) is intended to measure how well a fund's portfolio correlates with the performance of of the fund's primary index. All funds have some sort of tracking error. The cost of using an index is why some investment managers choose to use their own models and benchmarks instead of using indices from an index providers. For example - FMR the company that owns popular brokerage businesses like FBS (Fidelity Brokerage Services) also have an investment management business - Fidelity Investments. Some of Fidelity's popular fund families like their ZERO funds are based on their own indices and sub-advised by Geode Capital. Geode actually used to be part of FMR before Fidelity split them out as a separate fund manager. Because Fidelity uses their own models - they can reduce the expenses in the fund and offer the fund with no expense ratio - so a Fidelity US Large Cap mutual fund like FNILX would have no expense ratio compared to a comparable S&P 500 index fund. Fidelity will then distribute the fund exclusively through their own brokerages and adviser channels. These funds would be available only to Fidelity customers and advisers and it serves as a competitive product to acquire and retain customers.
Can someone help me understand the difference or benifits buying into a higher per share ETF vs a lower per share cost? From my perspective, buying the lower cost per share would increase long term growth of the investment. 20k investment I’m looking at VOO vs. a Fidelity Total Market ETF FNILX for $20 /share Thank you!
Fidelity is pretty awesome as a [one stop shop](https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Fidelity:_one_stop_shop) They have excellent 24 hr customer service. The app is good. Better than Vanguard. Website is very good. The Cash Management Account is great as combo high yield savings/checking/BillPay account with check writing and a debit card. All ATM fees are refunded. The auto liquidation feature allows you to use a treasury money market (FDLXX) as a defacto core position (no state tax). You can also buy CDs with a CMA. Allows auto buys of fractional ETFs. Offers 529s, HSAs, DAFs etc. Fidelity Crypto allows direct custody and transfers of crypto. Good fixed income tools. Fidelity credit card is unlimited 2% if deposited into core position Local branches Fee free mutual funds. (FZROX, FZIPX, FNILX, FZILX) r/fidelityinvestments & r/fidelitycrypto are staffed by actual Fidelity employees who provide customer support. Cons: They put **very** long holds (10 **business** days/2 weeks) when you pull funds from another bank. If you push, it’s availible immediately or within a day. No Zelle No Plaid for linking ACH
Both funds track large cap US stocks - I personally think that FNILX is great fund to use. And because this is in an IRA - even if you have to sell the fund to move to another broker - it's not a taxable event so it's not really an issue either.
In my IRA, I have about 100k in FXAIX at Fidelity. What is the downside to moving all of it to Fidelity's Zero Funds like FNILX? I know that I must sell the FNILX fund if I want to transfer it to another brokerage fund. Any other downsides I'm not aware of?
keep it at Fidelity Trustworthy company. Manages trillions. Low cost broker services. Invest in the Fidelity Zero Cost fund FNILX Hard to beat 0% Expense ratio, no minimums, and invested in the S&P 500 Index basically. Five year return of 18.54%.
I bought FNILX yesterday at $17.79. Should be up around 15% today, will know by 9pm est
If you think the market will bounce then QQQM. If you think we have more downside then safer stuff like FZROX or FNILX.
My Roth IRA is pretty risky. But with everything down I feel like buying safe stuff isn't going to pan out on the way back up. Topped up on QQQM during the bloodbath on Friday. Suggestions? IF things go down more what should I add? QQQM: 60% FZROX: 10% SMH: 10% FNILX: 9% SOXQ: 5% NLR: 5% NVDA: 1%
Let me settle this gold vs S&P 500 debate once and for all. If you do not know the complete history of gold vs market, then do not be surprised by this. No, it is not hard to believe gold outperforming the S&P 500 within the last 20 years since this is not the first time that gold has managed to beat the market within a 20 to 25 years period. From 1930 to 1950, gold also outperformed the S&P 500 due to the Great Depression, and it can also frequently beat the market within a 10-year time frame as well. But once you expand that investing time frame to very long time, at least 30 years, the winner is clear. From 1990 to 2020, from 1970 to 2010, from 1950 to 1980, (or chose whatever start-year and end-year you like): Gold NEVER beats the S&P 500 within at least a 30-year window. Once you expand that to 40 years or 50 years, the significant outperformance of S&P 500 over gold becomes more apparent, not to mention that it is also more liquid than gold, you will not paying making-charges associated with gold bullions, and the fact you can generate passive income out of it due to its dividends (gold does not come with dividends). Plus, gold is a collectable and subject to a higher capital gain tax (at least 30%), compared to the market (maximum capital gain tax of SPY or VOO in brokerage account is only 20%, but for most people it is either no tax whatsoever or only 15% if their combined taxable does not reach half a million. Do no also forget the storage costs associated with gold. With VOO ETF all you pay is 0.03% expense ratio. Do you also want to pay no taxes and no fees when investing in S&P 500? Then open a fidelity Roth IRA and buy FNILX, this fund has no fees whatsoever and all earnings out of it will come tax free. Now, compare this to GLD, the most commonly traded gold ETF with an expense ration of 0.49 which is eventually going to erode your return over a long period of time. If in 1940, your grandfather had invested $1000 in S&P 500 to be passed on to you the heir as his grandson, today that investment is worth $507,340 today (sufficient for you to buy a good house for yourself using cash with no need of mortgage). At that time the average price of buying a good house in USA was about $7,000. If he had retirement savings of $14,000, he could have used half of the fund to buy his own house, and then invest the the other half into S&P 500, insuring that his children and grandchildren will be able to buy seven more houses today in 2025. But what if he invested $1000 in gold? The return will be just sit at $55,714.65. So rather being enough money for you to buy a house, this will only cover some portion of your down payment. The example above shows that S&P 500 significantly outperforms gold over a very long timespan.
Fidelity would be a great choice for a Roth IRA- they have a handful of index funds with a 0% expense ratio including one that basically tracks the S&P500 (FNILX). A perfect brokerage and fund to start investing in IMO.
> I'd be curious as to what you were holding for too long. In hindsight, almost everything. ;p But the main things I regret not selling sooner (as in, I'd been thinking about it for months, and held because I was greedy and stupid) were FNILX and QQQ (no need to tell me they overlap, thanks, I'm aware). I did manage to get out of some of my FNILX at a small profit before it dropped all the way into the red. I don't expect a full recovery any time this year and certainly not a return to a bull market. Everything is set to sell if it bounces high enough to break even, just so I don't miss a chance to lunge for the exit, otherwise I'm sitting on it.
>Mutual funds and other money managers are a waste of your ask me. That's not entirely true. Mutual funds track major indices too. In fact, a corresponding mutual fund that tracks the same index as an ETF can sometimes have lower management fees because of how mutual funds are structured. And there is no premium/discount in a mutual fund. For example - Fidelity's FNILX and Schwab's SWPPX have lower expense ratios than an ETF VOO. There are also money managers that actively manage ETFs.
Mid 40s, retirement is unchanged and is 80% stock. The rest is about divided 3 ways between: * All stock (AMZ, FNILX) * CDs at 4.5% * Cash at 3.7%
FNILX is nearly the same composition as FXAIX but is free and has also slightly outperformed across all measured timeframes
FNILX 0% expense ratio, only available via Fidelity
My set and forget FNILX lost 1.6% and recovered all but 0.3% today. It was a blood bath.
Not an ETF but FNILX is a fidelity exclusive which is free. 0% expense ratio. If you're not day trading mutual funds are usually superior as they have a cost advantage. You can even swing trade with them if you want, though they are generally for buy and hold.
I buy mostly VUG or FNILX, $25-$50 per week.
1. Create a budget. *Personally, I use the [50/30/20](https://www.investopedia.com/ask/answers/022916/what-502030-budget-rule.asp#:~:text=Key%20Takeaways,but%20don't%20necessarily%20need.) method.* 2. Do you have a 3-6 month emergency fund? *If not, I'd suggest directing what you need from the $50k to establish that fund. That can be kept in a HYSA, Bonds, or CD's.* 3. Max out an IRA, Roth or Traditional. Whichever makes sense for your income. In 2024, that max contribution amount is $7,000. Broad market index fund. Examples of S&P 500 funds or ETFs include VFIAX, VOO, FXAIX, FNILX (tracks the S&P in all but name), or SWPPX. 4. If you're eligible for a company 401K program, and not maxed out, you might look at increasing your contribution rate. 5. Look into starting a Health Savings Account (HSA).
Same as anything else, basically: US total market and International total market. These specific funds are FZROX & FNILX. I'm due for a rebalance but the goal has been 70% US / 30% everyone else. Valuations being what they are in the US maybe 60/40 would be better. My "playing with stocks" money is in the taxable account. I'd save some money by doing that in the 401k, but I like the "mental accounting" aspect that retirement accounts are for retirement. In a few years I'll probably shift my retirement accounts away from equities, just a couple percentage points each year. In retirement I'm thinking it'll be more like 60% stocks with that same US/international split, 25% bonds, 10% managed futures, 5% commodities. At that point I don't need aggressive growth, I need protection against big drawdowns.