USFR
WisdomTree Floating Rate Treasury Fund
Mentions (24Hr)
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Reddit Posts
Seeking Suggestions for Parents After Disappointing Financial Advisor Experience
Offsetting Previous Losses While Continuing to Invest for the Future
Why does USFR have such a higher yield than all other money market funds?
Should I invest in treasury funds if no state income tax?
Are SGOV or USFR still viable short term investing options for growing down payment?
5K Daily Gain on AMD, IWM, META, PLTR, and QQQ
What are today's sentiments towards the market? How are we feeling
How to use T Bill ETFs as cash alternative inflation hedges? (SGOV, TFLO, USFR, etc.)
Moving 200K from HYSA to treasury ETF. Confusion regarding USFR vs BIL
Parking Cash (Money Markets, Treasury Bills, Bond Funds, ETFs, etc.)
Short term US Treasuries: T-Bills vs ETFs vs Floating Rates (USFR)?
Can buying/selling SGOV and USFR trigger a wash sale?
USFR vs TFLO for treasury floating rate note exposure?
House downpayment is sitting in Robinhood cash sweep (4.65%), is USFR a better option?
How will floating-rate treasury funds (USFR, TFLO) fare when interest rates start to fall?
How dumb is this strategy: say you own 100% in USFR, use ~15% margin to sell mildly OTM puts?
VMSXX has now temporarily surpassed all MMFs for higher federal tax brackets.
Will Treasury ETFs Crash in Case of a Default? - Specifically Floating Rate Notes?
How to best manage income taxes on realized gains (post tax account)?
Are returns from treasury ETFs like SGOV and USFR state tax exempt just like regular treasuries ?
Which yield definition should you use when comparing floating rate treasury funds?
What are some safe overnight bonds / ETFs that I can exit any day easily?
5 Great Fixed-Income Funds to Buy for 2023.What do you think?
Dividends with floating rate bond ETFs (too good to be true?)
Consider a Floating Rate Treasury ETF for your Cash - Almost Zero Duration Risk - Pays More Than Savings
Mentions
That's a poor decision and will cost you far more than 6k long term. If you really want to be risk averse, put like 30% into a bond ETF like USFR, that way you'll get a higher yield than any hysa and you don't have to pay state/local taxes on that yield. Then the rest into low cost index etf like VOO. Seriously having the stability of a US military job for presumably a couple years and the maturity to actually put money into savings are two huge advantages, not having the intelligence to do it right would be tragic.
This .SGOV and USFR gains are almost state tax exempt.
sorry to add one more on you list . USFR. Please do check before making a decision. https://www.reddit.com/r/Bogleheads/s/eabNqI99Mz
You're over thinking it. A Treasury ETF like VBIL, SGOV, USFR or Treasury Money Market like VUSXX are functionally equivalent. Just pick whatever is most convenient for you.
If I wasn’t barred from cash rebates due to pattern day trader flag I’d do that but alas I guess USFR/sgov/bil has same interest rate payment AND you can use those as safe collateral for margin loans or margin spending. Pretty handy
you don't lose growth due to a conservative tilt. you lose growth with elevated risk. you want the best risk-adjusted return, not the most growth. use your cash to buy ultrashort government bonds, e.g., USFR or VGUS, or just hold it in a MMF or HYSA. this essentially cuts your maximum drawdown in half, and gives you dry powder to bring your account back into balance when stocks are cheap. when the market recovers, you end up with a bigger balance than before the drawdown started. [https://portfoliocharts.com/2022/04/12/unexpected-returns-shannons-demon-the-rebalancing-bonus/](https://portfoliocharts.com/2022/04/12/unexpected-returns-shannons-demon-the-rebalancing-bonus/)
Yeah, waiting would be the prudent thing to do. My guess is we go down 10-15% or so, either now or within a few months. I have some SQQQ and some QQQ put options, but mainly because some longs I don't want to sell for tax reasons. That keeps my port from moving much either direction until I get a better sense of the market direction. Being in cash is fine also (SGOV or USFR)
Yeah, keep my head down, and be quiet :( AKA: stick with VOO and USFR
33% short term treasuries USFR. Got a nice lil cash flow each month, and I can rebalance if we dip, or if we continue to rip for some reason, well, I guess I still win just not as much
Short-term Treasuries. Their price doesn't change with the interest rate. But they pay interest based on the interest rate, so he'll be receiving less interest when the rate goes down. Same as holding BIL or USFR ETFs, or having money in a high-yield savings account.
I see it as a way to pay for the gold membership. I have emergency funds in USFR to qualify for the margin so why not?
I’m 33% USFR. Sleeping like a baby and will rebalance if we dip
Only buy puts in the context of a straddle. True bears buy TLT GLD and USFR
cash is actually a good strategy if you're bearish. I recently adjusted strategy to basically rebalance using USFR. So if it dips, I reallocate to the assets that are going down and when it rips I restock cash position to bring the ratio into balance. ONLY adjusting the USFR to avoid taxes.
55 year old here. Feel nervous about a crash in the next year, so this week I moved out of QQQ and into USFR (treasury bond fund paying around 4%). I’m hoping to retire in the next five years so I just can’t risk a crash. So now I’m 50% in bonds. Maybe I’ll miss out on some gains, but I’ll sleep better knowing I’m not in danger of losing a big chunk of my retirement savings. The world is just way too volatile and weird right now. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever experience in my lifetime.
From the category of extremely safe bond funds (USFR, SPAXX, SGOV, AND ICSH), ICSH has the highest total yearly returns. With the grand total sum being 21.71%, and the average being 1.97%, and it's the only one who has never been at a loss. I wouldn't fully rely on the 30 day yields shown by these funds. Many of these bond funds are showing an irregular pattern of higher returns from 2023-2024 and it's starting to slow down this year. It seems temporary.
Throw a portion of all profits into a etf that generates dividends. I normally do like 25-50% of all profit straight into USFR so I can never lose it all.
you are right, 5.4% was last year. Total annual return year to date is 3.26% source [https://totalrealreturns.com/n/USFR?normalize=off](https://totalrealreturns.com/n/USFR?normalize=off)
Where are you seeing USFR is 5.4%? I'm seeing the 30-day SEC yield at 3.97%, [per their website](https://www.wisdomtree.com/investments/etfs/fixed-income/usfr).
USFR is 5.4%, has lower fees, and should be available in fidelity
I’ll take the 7%—and presumably the tax beating that comes with it—for my weekly savings going forward. Would have settled for whatever USFR is yielding, since that’s what I’m doing now. I’m happy with my positions in growth, value, and Treaurys. I don’t see anything remotely tempting. I’ll be an opportunistic buyer at better prices.
piggybacking to add USFR too -- US T-bill ETF that basically gets laddered for you (and has the liquidity of a stock/etf), what i hold the majority of my EF in.
USFR, it yields 4.34% currently and is buying short term treasuries so as safe as what you have
Do you reinvest your USFR dividends? Or do you keep your earned dividends as Spaxx?
Unless you want capital gains instead of a cash dividend, in which case you could choose from the following, depending on the time of month: TBLL SGOV USFR
You could just put that money in USFR and make 4% on it without the risk of the deal falling through.
It's okay. You're referencing the devaluation of the dollar relative to other currencies with the 10% which matters but doesn't matter to individuals at the same time unless it's extreme and long-term. At that point it would matter to businesses who purchase abroad as it potentially compresses margins and individuals who purchase a lot of goods abroad, who travel, or plan to live abroad. I'd suggest your mom put her money in a short-term treasury floating rate fund like USFR. It should at least maintain with inflation and she won't experienc3 fluctuations aside from the zig zag movement of the monthly payouts. I think anything else comes with some risk that she would need to be comfortable with understanding.
Yeah man PLEASE put 250k into like USFR or something and get paid from dividends. Don't gamble it away
Know anything in terms of SGOV vs USFR?
Move 20-40% into T-bills via USFR or TreasuryDirect.gov.
Congratulations on starting so early. I'd recommend going 100% VT (Vanguard Total World Market) in your Roth. By far the most set it and forget it ETF available, it handles your US and International diversification. Make sure you have a reported income of at least how much you contribute to the Roth in a year. If you have rent and/or other expenses to worry about, I'd wait to start investing in another brokerage and first open a high yield savings account where you keep at least 6 months worth of your expenses. Or put it in a brokerage in a fund like SGOV or USFR, which will give you a similar yield to a HYSA. If you manage to fill that or don't need it, the S&P 500 is fine in your brokerage if you don't mind the risk.
I’m retired now, so I’ve got about five years of spending in short term Treasury ETF (USFR). Prior to retirement I had everything in stocks.
If you’re considering SGOV look into USFR it yields slightly more
Agreed. If interested in a few tickers which track Treasuries, have a look at these: SGOV TBLL USFR
Currently have a recurring plan with SGOV and USFR but ty I’ll add VT into the allocation…
For a 15-year horizon, I’d lean toward an intermediate-term treasury ETF (like VGIT) — it gives you better yield than short-term funds but less rate risk than long bonds. GOVT & VTG do have more long-duration exposure, so they’ll swing more if rates move. Floating-rate (TFLO, USFR) is great in rising-rate environments, but if rates drop, you’ll wish you locked in longer yields. A simple ladder or a mix of short + intermediate could give you flexibility without overcomplicating it.
When you park money in Treasuries you’re balancing two main risks: interest‑rate risk and reinvestment risk. Short‑maturity or floating‑rate ETFs like TFLO or SGOV have almost no duration, so they’re very stable and will track the Fed funds rate. That makes them useful as cash equivalents or a place to store "dry powder" because price volatility is minimal. The trade‑off is that if rates fall, the yield on those funds will reset lower almost immediately. At the other end are broad Treasury bond ETFs that hold intermediate or long maturities. They will fluctuate more as yields move, but they lock in today’s yields for longer and historically have provided higher total returns over multi‑year periods. A fund like GOVT holds a mix of maturities; VGIT is intermediate‑term; VGIT or a ladder of maturities can be a good match if you have a 10‑ to 15‑year horizon and want a smoother ride than long bonds. Very long‑duration funds are more sensitive to rates and may not be ideal if you plan to shift the money back into equities on a downturn. Floating‑rate Treasury funds (USFR, TFLO) own short‑term securities whose coupons reset with the 13‑week bill rate. They protect against rising rates but don’t give you the term premium you get from holding longer bonds. TIPS (Treasury inflation‑protected securities) are another option if you’re concerned about inflation, though they come with their own quirks. Rather than trying to predict interest rates, many investors choose a core bond fund that matches their time horizon and complements their equity allocation. In a Roth IRA, you also don’t face taxes on bond interest, so holding a taxable bond fund there can make sense. Ultimately the right choice depends on whether you prioritise stability (short duration), income (intermediate duration), or inflation protection. Talking through your broader asset allocation with a financial planner can help you decide which combination of these instruments fits your goals.
I’m storing my emergency fund in USFR through vanguard. Is there a feature that lets me automatically reinvest the dividends?
I have Schwab and keep some cash in SWVXX but have recently moved most of it to USFR since it pays slightly more dividend but mostly since it is available immediately unlike SWVXX, which you have to wait until the next day to access funds. A friend has Fidelity and he says all his cash is automatically rolled up into their version of SWVXX, but is also available immediately.
There are several that are good. USFR - SGOV I like BOXX - it gets you 4.29% and you don't pay taxes till you sell. Share price goes up 1 or 2 cents - every day. Never goes down. Make 50cents per month per share. $6 per year. That's 4.29% like clock work. Simple and efficient. Some folks wonder if the strategy will last forever? I don't know but I keep buying 1 share every week until I retire - or until the share price stops going up 1 or 2 cents everyday.
I’m doing the same thing, just in USFR
SGOV and USFR are both paying around 4.6% right now. That’s about $525 more over the course of a year compared to a HYSA paying 4.1%. Assuming those interest rate differences stay the same, of course.
The key is not to \*use\* the credit. So for example, if you have 10k in available credit, but you're putting things on the cards for say rewards points, that may not cover the whole of your emergency fund if something really big happened that you needed to pay for immediately (like the upfront cost of a doctor visit where you broke your foot or a tow bill at 2 am in the middle of nowhere). So it sounds to me like you could do some kind of split safely (like maybe 6-7k in a HYSA and float the other 3-4k in SGOV). Some emergency items (like furnace repairs, ER visits, or sewer repairs) offer SUBSTANTIAL savings for paying on the spot, so that's the key there for an emergency fund (or a sufficiently large credit card). Has any of your money come from a job? If so you can put that money in an IRA. I would say that your thinking is incorrect about an IRA - you should have one now if you have \*any\* earned income in 2025 and here's why: 1.) You can put 10k towards a first time home purchase. 2.) You can withdraw contributions at any time - so for example, if you put 7k in today, you can take out 7k even 5 years from now, and since it's matched to a contribution you wont pay a penalty. You can even put the money back in, in 60 days and not have it count against you. So say you withdraw 15k in contributions to buy a car, but talk the dealership down to 12.5k you can put the rest of the money back without any hassle. 3.) You wont pay taxes on the earnings and should you ever want to sell it doesn't create a taxable event. Also dividends are tax free (unless they're foreign companies). The advantages are too large to simply ignore them for no good reason. For my personal set up: 10% of all of my paychecks go into a ROTH IRA, and once that's maxed out for the year, I switch to my HSA through work. I don't make enough money to max both with just 10% lol. 10% of my paycheck goes towards "goals" - cars, house renovations, etc. I have a 401k at work that I put 6% into and they match me 4% to get me an additional 10% - so I'm actually saving 16% of my income in tax advantaged accounts and my company matches me to get to 20% so that 10% saved for "me" items is guilt free lol. In summary: I would put some money in a ROTH \*today\* as long as you have earnings to cover it. I would buy stocks with that money as you've outlined in your post. The rest, outside of a decent cash retainer for emergencies, would be in a taxable brokerage account in VBIL or SGOV (honestly for me the main use case for USFR, SGOV, or VBIL is how much money I have since they're different denominations). Any money you anticipate needing in the next 5 years I absolutely would not put into the stock market.
1. Make sure this "long term" money is in a tax protected vehicle like an IRA, which I assume it is? 2. There's a lot of advice about what to do with emergency savings. Mine is pretty different: a.) The ideal amount of money you need in an emergency fund is the full replacement value of your car (if you're American and don't live in a select few cities). Most people only really fall into big financial trouble if they can't handle credit cards, or their vehicle dies/has big problems, and they have to take out a usurious auto-loan. If you become wealthy enough to where that amount of money no longer \*also\* represents 6 months of spending, then proceed to save more. b.) Have your emergency fund in a high yield savings account like Capital One, Ally, Sofi, or the many other online banks that offer better interest rates. You never know when you will need that cash instantly \*until\* you have a credit card that you don't use that has a higher credit limit than your emergency fund. Say, for example, 12k represents 6 months of living expenses and you paid 10k for your car. You have a credit card that \*always\* has 12k available credit. You can then move your emergency savings out of a high yield savings account/or a taxable brokerage that is \*only\* in money market funds, and into a taxable brokerage account. c.) Once you have sufficient credit, you can move your emergency savings into things like SGOV, VBIL, or USFR. These will have a settlement period of 3 days or so - that's why I don't like using them in a scenario where you don't have sufficient credit.
No worries. What broker are you using? Use an easy central place like Fidelity. The default money market is more than most HYSA, if you want a step further out it in SGOV. If you want to automate, have auto buy of SGOV, then sell the SGOV to do the nondeductible contribution for the conversion (backdoor). The money should be like no other: short term money = SGOV. Long term money sp500 or NASDAQ on an auto weekly (or biweekly paycheck) basis. You just have a funny “reason” for short term, it is still just short term. You can even use a different ETF like USFR or BIL just to segregate. DM me if you have other questions. Best of luck
USFR, TFLO, and SHV might be worth a look
I guess this depends on your definition of what “cash” is and what you’d like your access to it to be. Like can you wait 24 hours after the next trading day for access for example. I would consider any money market fund to be functionally equivalent to cash and certain ETFs to be near enough as well. Yes theoretically the dollar could break but if that happens with a MMF made of treasuries well worse things are happening. The laziest way would be to set your “core position” at fidelity to SPAXX since it is the default place any cash transferred in goes and it auto-liquidates were you to say withdraw money from an ATM or pay a bill and requires no planning. Slightly more effort is to allocate money to a money market fund of your choice to either get better tax treatment or yield. Most treasury only MMFs are hovering just under 4.0% these days. These will auto-liquidate too but and cash you deposit will need to be used to buy these funds manually. The method that yields the most is to buy a short term treasury ETF like SGOV or USFR (which yield just under 4.5% today and is state tax exempt if that matters to you) and simply sell a certain amount when cash is needed. It just won’t be available to withdraw for a business day after the next market day. Is the last method literal cash? No, but I feel like it functionally is for how I keep my emergency fund. I never need tens of thousands of dollars in cash in less than 1 business day. And bottom line I’m not gonna pay some fintech company money to get a worse yield and pay state taxes. I never need literal cash on a moments notice (and most people don’t either).
I just put 33% of my networth in $USFR. I am gonna be so rich.
got any to recommend? Got some gold, but for my fixed income basket, I'm trying to match the yield of USFR but also don't want to hold anything denominated in dollars.
Consider not automatically reinvesting the dividends. The NAV is a little weird on SGOV and USFR and such. The average price is basically constant, but it fluctuates up and down due to the current value of the expected dividend. Depending on when you buy the original shares, sometimes your cost basis will be positive, other times negative. Anyways, if you need to sell the fund mid month, sometimes you can have a very slight loss. If you automatically reinvest dividends the next month it'll trigger a wash sale rule violation. This isn't the end of the world, but it'll cost you another five minutes on your taxes and a momentary freak out when you see the warning banner pop up on your account. This can be avoided by only selling shares with that have a positive cost basis, but I prefer to just manually place buy orders when I'm confident I won't need the cash in the near future.
Yep, all of my emergency fund is in USFR which is similar to SGOV
If rates change you will notice more of a drop in USFR than with SGOV. SPAXX is fine. I haven't lost any money yet. Lol
Also, compare SGOV and USFR , I will not be surprised if you end with USFR.
How far in the future? If within five years, maybe USFR, VBIL, or SGOV. If beyond that, VOO or VTI. But you should think of your portfolio as a whole, and have an asset allocation plan for all of it.
USFR outperforms SGOV over the long run.
SGOV and USFR are the two popular ones I know of
I would personally use USFR if you're comparing to a savings account, it functions more similarly than 3 month treasuries like SGOV. USFR will give you a higher return than your HYSA and have no state income tax. It's perfectly safe unless the US government defaults, in which case your money wasn't safe anywhere.
I recommend getting RH Gold and buying USFR with the $1,000 of margin. The free margin will nearly pay for the price of RH Gold. I also live in CA and USFR is exempt from state taxes. If I were to get 4%-4.5% using a HYSA or Robinhood Gold I would have to pay state taxes on the interest.
I’ll agree that this was an unusually scary unknown, in that one person seemed like he could do anything. Did not sell them, actually bought some, but I’m selling some % off the top now since I’m retired. Time to buy more dividend payers and USFR for income
I have my "allowance" for the rest of the year already teed up, and holding in either SGOV or USFR. It may turn out that creating that much cash in Feb-March will not have been necessary after all, but at the time it seemed "prudent". (But: I'm retired, and now living off my previous investments.)
Not straight cash but I have a 12 month emergency fund which is about 10% of my portfolio in USFR.
Keep it in the brokerage account, buy a short duration treasury ETF like SGOV or USFR or CLIP. The yield is exempt from state and local taxes. If you have low state and local taxes, then consider BOXX, which uses a box spread on SPY to replicate the risk free rate and tries to minimize the amount inside thats taxed at STCG, so if you hold for 1 yr + you get a fair amount taxed at LTCG instead.
If the money is still earmarked as a downpayment, then yes - get it out of the market. Not because of market timing, but because it shouldn't be invested in stock in the first place. Instead of moving it to a bank account, just put it into SGOV, USFR, or even VUSXX at Vanguard.
If you like treasuries (I do, too, but also live in a state with high income tax), VBIL is a newer option from Vanguard that undercuts SGOV, BIL, and the others on expense ratio and thus is normally going to produce the highest yield. TFLO and USFR come into conversation as well. They invest in floating rate notes, which are a thing the Treasury introduced about a decade ago and in fund form are essentially the same thing as the ultra short term bonds funds, but capture a small premium that allows them to produce higher yields despite higher expense ratios. A lot of people like these; personally I'm not quite sure what their liquidity will look like in times of financial stress. The difference between all of these is going to be pretty minimal though, so it doesn't really matter. This is just if you like to be an optimizer.
Because you don’t want your emergency fund in stocks then have an emergency come along at the same time as an event like liberation day or just end up needing it while in the middle of an extended bear market. You may not need as much as someone else in emergency funds but it’s a good idea to have some. You can also find savings accounts with more than 3%. In fact I put savings in USFR shares which is a bond ETF and stays stable but return more than most savings accounts I’ve seen. There are high yield savings accounts you can find that are better than 3% though
Choose between HYSA or MMF for quick liquidation , same day. Since you would need the money soon , wouldn't recomend to put in stocks or ETF . If you are fine with the 2-day wait period to get to your money, then SGOV or USFR is another safe option ( state tax benefit too if you live in a high state tax area )
For the tax-advantaged account: whatever prime money market has the highest yield. For the taxable account: either a fund holding treasuries to be free from state tax or a fund holding your state's munis to be free from all tax. The muni rates [change frequently](https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/municipal-money-market-yield-volatility/) so you'll have to try and get an estimate of the average and plug it into [a calculator](https://digital.fidelity.com/prgw/digital/taxyieldcalc/) to see which is better. As far as the treasury funds, the etfs have lower expense ratios than any mutual funds I'm aware of, and thus higher yields. VBIL is probably going to be the highest of treasuries due to having the lowest ER. Then there are TFLO and USFR, which invest in floating rate notes instead and are able to capture a spread premium above t-bills; those have the same tax liability but are a slightly different thing in terms of liquidity. Here's a handy tool from another redditor that tracks the highest yielding funds: https://yieldfinder.app/money_markets Be aware that not all the ones in this list are invested in tax-exempt assets, so you'll need to check that.
60/40, SCHG/SCHD, unless you’re over 55. If over 55 then 70/30 SCHG/USFR. I am not a financial advisor and this is not financial advise.
60/40, SCHG/SCHD, unless you’re over 55. If over 55 then 70/30 SCHG/USFR. I am not a financial advisor and this is not financial advise.
USFR or SGOV ( no state tax)
Robinhood gets a lot of hate but I personally have had a positive experience with them. I pay $50 a year and max out my Roth $7,000 a year resulting in a 3% match ($210). I will gladly pay $50 a year to get an extra $210 into my Roth account. I also use Robinhood as my emergency fund. I buy USFR in my Robinhood brokerage account which currently earns 4.27%. Robinhood gold also gives me $1,000 worth of margin that I use to buy more USFR to help offset the fee of Robinhood Gold. I’m 29 years old and I only buy SPLG in my Roth.
SGOV is perfectly fine. There are a few other options that give slightly better yields (VBIL is the same thing but lower expense, TFLO and USFR invest in floating rate notes which are a different type of investment, and then if you don't care about the state income tax exemption prime money market funds can return a little higher), but it's up to you if you care.
SGOV is perfectly fine. There are a few other options that give slightly better yields (VBIL is the same thing but lower expense, TFLO and USFR invest in floating rate notes which are a different type of investment, and then if you don't care about the state income tax exemption prime money market funds can return a little higher), but it's up to you if you care.
Sell it and put it to USFR or VLT. Safe long term payers.
You can read the "breaking the buck" section here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Money_market_fund We normally have low six figures in VBIL or similar funds in case that helps. I'm just some person, and I can't provide any guarantees, but as I've looked into it I am satisfied with the risk of the treasury funds. I'm _not_ quite as sure about the floating rate notes (TFLO and USFR) because we haven't seen how their liquidity holds up in weird market conditions, so I don't use those even though they're broadly considered extremely safe as well; that gives you an idea how conservative I am with risk. In my opinion: they're essentially the same in risk. Really it comes down to whether you're ok with the hassle of dealing with a brokerage versus a bank account.
I use USFR as a HYSA. If I need the money I can sell and have the money in checking the next day. Short term bond ETFs are the best of all worlds and have been for a while now. Worst that will happen is that it will go ex dividend and you won’t have the accrued interest for the past month for a few days.
USFR might be marginally better. But yes VUSXX is very good
Less tax how? I'm a fan of USFR over SGOV but the taxes should be the same, both treasuries.
VBIL is the same stuff but even cheaper. You can also get into floating rate notes with USFR and TFLO and grab a small spread premium, but FRNs are a newer thing and it's not totally sure how liquidity will work in the event of major market movements, so I'm personally fine giving up that premium.