Vanguard Total World Stock Index Fund ETF Shares
yea, a lot of people are too scared to invest in the market. IBonds have zero real return. I find it hard to imagine VT returning zero real in the next 5 years. Of course it has happened before, but the risk reward is pretty good if
It's the most cliche/recommended portfolio on the planet (besides maybe the 60/40 stock/bond portfolio), so asking to get it rated is both pointless to anyone already familiar with investing and also there is a 'rate my portfolio' thread. If you're a newbie, it's a perfectly valid question and the answer is it's fine, I just prefer internationally diversified portfolios like VT.
1. Find a brokerage (examples: Vanguard, Schwab, Fidelity; if you aren't in the US you might have to use a country-specific one). This is where you put money into and then can buy financial assets like stocks, bonds, mutual funds, ETFs, and so on. 2. Deposit the money you wish to invest into it 3. Research online a low cost, total global (or total US) index fund. An index fund contains all the different stocks in a market, so it is very diversified. For example, someone in the US would buy the fund called "VT" to own stocks from all over the world. You can look up whatever the equivalent of VT is. I would not recommend buying an individual stock (as in, buying stock in Microsoft as opposed to the S&P 500) unless you know what you are doing and realize how much riskier it can be.
You can trade about 500 stocks at the *exact* same time with SPY. You can trade about 10,000 stocks at the *exact* same time with VT. You can trade every meme stock at the exact same time too. And if you're too lazy to make your own basket of securities, ARKK is one of the most traded ETFs in the market.
My father in law knows nothing about stocks (cashed out his 401k at the bottom of 2009) and asked me last year where he should put 20k. I told him either VTI or VT. Well he sold for -15% loss the other day and thinks I don't know anything now. Honestly infuriating
First tracking difference (performance) and tracking error (variability) are technically different, but sometimes lumped together in one residual figure to cover anything from the unavoidable (unplanned transaction rebalancing cost, cash drag, currency hedging fees, execution timing market changes, thinly traded stock premiums, sampling, diversification rules), and in some cases improved excess return (security lending, tax buffer treatment, interest on dividend preparation pools) is usually just so small. Positive/Negative can be confusing, so lets just say ‘where costs you’ (bad type) more than the expense ratio or is significantly different from others who are also tracking the same benchmark index, then you need to ask questions. VT expense ratio .07 residual error .03 VTI .expense ratio .03 residual error .01 VXUS expense ratio .07 residual error .01 Now given that info, you still don’t know if ‘residual error’ was a good or bad thing for your bottom line - it just means a difference occurred.
I think you're on a good track. I'd keep it real simple and stick to a single broad market (market cap weighted) index fund like VT. Trying to split it all out into different market cap funds or dividend paying (your SCHD for instance) is just muddying the waters. One thing I'd point out also in regards to SCHD is I steer away from dividends as it's essentially a forced capital gains tax on an investment. I'd much rather have a stock not pay dividends and have the price appreciate so that I can claim that income when I want, not when dividends payout. Also, keep an eye on capital gains in the funds if it's in a taxable account. VT/VTI are well regarded for not having any capital gains and an extremely low churn rate. Compare it to, say a target date fund where they're constantly churning investments to stay on target. In a taxable account this can cause a catastrophe of taxes if you're not careful. Lots of ink has been spilled about the huge cap gains these funds spilled in 2020/2021 as the market went up and down so much. tl;dr - You're young. I'd stick to a single broad market equities fund like VT and skip the rest. Watch out for expense ratios and capital gains outlays in taxable account investments. Also get going on that 401k. Even with no match it's a tremendous tax advantage.
If you are going to use a robo, use one that provides services like financial planning included. Given your age, you dont really need that at this stage of your life, except maybe as a one off. Ellevest is a weird niche advisory firm, again probably geared more toward full services, Id not suggest to use them. Vanguard has a great robo and decent planning services depending on the dollar amount. That said, they just use Vanguard funds and dont tax loss harvest if it is a taxable account. Schwab sucks for robo, they use heavy cash allocations because they make money that way from interest margin, a clear conflict of interest. Betterment is decent. So is Personal Capital and Facet Wealth. Fees are a bit high for all 3 though. Honestly, if you are 90/10 overall at your age, using VT+BND is reasonable without a robo. If you have IRAs just use a target date fund
I used to have around 40-50 stocks at some point, and noticed my performance was in line with S&P, maybe with a slightly higher yield, but a lot more work from my part to maintain. I realized it was not worth it, and I was lacking complete diversification by missing smaller cap companies and internationals. So I decided to shift to a VT fund and boom!!! Problem solved and peace of mind.
I don’t use it but I think anyone looking to use a robo advisor Wealthfront is the best. Get rid of ellevest, never heard of them but can’t trust anyone that has 44% of your allocation in bonds when you are 25. If you absolutely want to have bonds go 90/10 but since you are young I would go with 100% stocks. Now, if you are going to go with 100% stocks just ditch the robo advisor, open an account with Fidelity/Schwab/TD Ameritrade and buy either VTI or VT and call it a day.
I believe this is what is usually suggested: 1) have money in checking/savings accounts to cover your weekly/monthly expenses and 3-6 month emergency fund in case you lose your job. 2) Max out your 401K or 403B ($20.5K this year, $21.5K for next year?), 3) max out Roth IRA ($6,000 this year, $6.5K next year), 4) max out HSA(if qualified, usually $3K-$3.6K), 5) then open up brokerage account. Brokerage account should just broad-index ETFs like SPY, VOO, VTI, or VT. But if you want to get riskier, maybe do 80% broad-index, 20% blue chip individuals stocks, swing trading, options trading, etc. To answer your question, I think most people on this sub and other investing sub have more money in their brokerage accounts than their checking/savings accounts. Though, most people here prob have higher risk tolerance too. /r/financialindepence will have better answers for you. They have a daily thread for questions.
It's not 50/50 though. There's a house edge. Because of the 0 and 00 spaces on the roulette wheel, the expected return is negative. So in the long run, you'll lose every penny you have. Meanwhile, stocks have a positive expected return in the long run. The house edge is in your favor. If you buy VT, VTI, SPY, etc. you are the house. You make money when other people gamble. You make about 7% a year after inflation in the long run by doing this. If you gamble on options and keep your fees/commissions low, your long term expected returns are still positive. You might make a moronic $1 bet with a 1% chance of success, but it pays $101 in stocks, $100 in an even bet, and $99 in casinos, sports, etc. At the end of the day, investing actually creates value for humanity that would not otherwise exist. Betting on a sports team doesn't make the players any better. It's just winners and losers in a zero sum game. But betting on a stock gives the management more capital for their business. They create new innovations that allow humans to get more economic value out of fewer natural resources. Then they make profits that they pay out to their shareholders. WSB turns some traders into winners and others into losers, but it's not a zero sum game. Everyone is getting slightly richer here, especially since we use low cost trading platforms like Vanguard, Robinhood, Fidelity, Schwab/TDA, etc. Casinos, crypto apps, sports betting apps, etc. are way more expensive from a cost/fee/commission perspective. Maybe it's worth buying stock in companies that sell those things, but it's dumb to use them yourself.
No such claims. VT did underperform by 3%. However, to make more than the stocks are actually making (4-5%) during that period really was cheating the system during that period, as (especially American) stockholders presumably will find out.
Yeah, but people learn pretty fast. I think most generations of investors start with Nifty 50s, dotcoms, meme stocks, crypto, options, etc. and eventually ends up HODLing VT and gambling a bit on the side. I wouldn’t be surprised if most idiots mature into real investors at some point. There’s risk, but it’s with small sums of money, especially compared to lifetime earnings. If you’re 25 and lose every penny of disposable income you have, it’s not a big deal because you still have 40 years of work ahead of you. Part of the issue is that it comes down to individual liberties. If I want to gamble, do you have any right to stop me? Maybe for a real gamble like on Blackjack, but it’s hard to make that argument if I want to invest in something risky. “Risky” is in the eye of the beholder. If I have conviction that X stock will boom because of some unique information that only I have, it might be less risky for me than a bond index fund. How much options knowledge is enough? For me the line is whether you’re risking so much that you’re going to be a burden on everyone else in society. I’m not a fan of moral hazard. But if you are willing to fully bear the risk, reward, and responsibility of your choices, then I don’t have any right to limit your constitutionally protected right to freedom of association. Caveat emptor, which is a big reason why the apes are so irritating. If you lose money, it’s because you made a mistake. If you blame someone else for your problems, you’re not following the spirit of the sub and market overall.
My performance since inception (I'm a newb, don't judge): [My custom visualizations](https://imgur.com/a/fJ2cgQ4) of performance [Allocations](https://trackyourdividends.com/dashboard/viewportfolio/sk0WmLUDmlMzkpwhNpAJxEHvOLthiD4V) across Roth IRA/Taxable Nowhere near as impressive as /u/_hiddenscout though, damn. To be fair to me, as much as I talk about oil and gas, I don't actually own that much of it. I just like to research oil and gas. I won't *really* know how good/trash my portfolio is until we hit the next bull run. So far I see that I'm lagging S&P 500 and VT slightly but definitely beating NASDAQ. My ATH investments are definitely dragging me down.
28 y/o engineer trying to manage my financials. Watched the videos & podcasts, read the papers and arguments against. I still like the idea of tilting slightly towards SCV. I'm thinking of doing the below myself, while I have my girlfriend do VT&Chill or 65/35 VTI/VXUS (assuming she agrees, she can do what she wants, but that fits her personality). Our lifestyle and risk tolerance leads me to having us at 0% bonds likely until we are closer to 40. 70% Domestic US, 30% International 60% Domestic US - VTI 10% US Small Cap Value - AVUV/DFSV 16% International Developed - VEA 8% Emerging Markets - VWO 6% International Small Cap Value - AVDV/DISV I don't really consider time spent rebalancing etc. as I am generally always pretty interested in working with numbers, being an engineer. Complexity of managing this isn't a big downside to me. Looking to retire around 60. Watcha think?
Your original post only mentioned “VTI, VT, QQQ, etc” nothing about your individual stocks, so it was misleading coming as as if you were mostly in ETFs. If you wanted to say that the past 52 weeks have been completely trash, then we’re all in agreement. Especially growth/tech individual stocks. I’m only green overall because 60% of my portfolio is in VOO; most of which I bought during Covid flash crash. I have fewer individual winners (AAPL, PFE, ABBV, CAT) than I do with losers (3M, INTC, BABA, T, etc).
I never said it was good. I said it’s impossible to be -40% if you’ve been buying any of those ETFs over the past 4 years when none of them are even -40% on their 52-week chart. I gave an example of the worst scenario with somebody spending 85% of your portfolio on QQQ at its all-time high on Nov 2021, and even then it wouldn’t be -40%. 1) You’re lying about your holdings. 2) Everybody has been hurting over the past 52 weeks but nobody is down 40% if they’ve mostly investing in VTI, VOO and VT over the past 4 years. 3) I’m up since 2018 overall but down 9% YTD.
Because nobody who have been buying VTI, VT, QQQ over the past 3-4 years is down 40%. It’s literally impossible because QQQ itself isn’t down 40% from a year ago. Even if you had $85K on QQQ at $400/share in Nov 2021, then $5K each year from 2018-2020 on QQQ, you’d be down ~20%.
I obviously don't know what the large stocks are but if you invested mainly in ETFs 3-4 years ago, there's just no way they're negative. It's literally not possible. ​ ||2017|2018|2019|Now| |:-|:-|:-|:-|:-| |QQQ|158.77|187.53|214.56|282.23| |VTI|138.72|151.84|164.68|197.57| |VT|74.70|79.74|81.41|87.67| ||||||
Sorry maybe between 2 and 3 years. I'm at a 13% loss with QQQ. 9.7% loss with VTI 9.7% loss with VT T. Rowe Price Blue Chip mutual fund down 30% Rez ETF, up 0.32% - my only etf in the green ​ Some individual stocks I purchased in that same time frame: JPM - down 17% Ford - down 30% BAC - down 1% And the big winner. A long shot stock I thought might payoff with forays being made into psychedelic use for medical treatment of depression, etc. A stock called Mind Medicine - down 93%
If you added $100/mo over the last 48 months to VTI at the peak price of each month, you'd have invested $6,100. At today's price, you'd have a market value of $6,926.29, before dividends. QQQ market value of $7,218.80 VT market value of $6,307.30. Every single one is a positive return, and that's before dividends. And that's DCAing when prices hit peaks. You said you bought 3-4 years ago and just held; no adding. So you're clearly lying or leaving out some important information.
Investing in crypto is not investing, it is speculating. To assume index funds (talking broad based passive diversified ones like VT, VTI, ITOT, IWV, etc) would go to zero, assumes that the economy will essentiall collapse and never recover, all businesses ceasing to exist altogether. Is that assumption valid? Probably not. The reason index funds arent speculating is that they own companies and companies generate cash flow and earnings. When you own an index fund, you are taking defacto ownership (to a small degree) in the companies that are owned by the index fund. As an owner, you are entitled to the benefits of profits generated.
Get a robo advisor, target date fund, or buy $VT and forget about it. Someone with no investment knowledge like you (or bad info like your husband apparently) should either take the time to learn or get advice. Robo advisors like Betterment are really affordable and do it all for you. Im an FA but you would need $500k to even sit with me. You could always talk to a Financial Consultant at Fidelity or Schwab, I think they’re $25k.
ETFs as similar as VTI, SPY, and VOO don't greatly diverge from one another. The S&P 500 is about 84% of US stock market value, so their returns have been and will continue to be similar. It's certainly fine to hold a single ETF, as long as it's highly diversified like VTI. VT, Vanguard's total world stock ETF, would be even more diversified.
If young and you got time. Just do VTI and forget it. Or if you wanna be a tad more involved just do VT and VXUS together. VTI: The whole world. Won’t fail unless life as we know it ends. VT: Whole USA VXUS: Whole world except the US
My wife and I drafted between similar ETFs to start building our portfolios. I wanted to create two portfolios that would be similar in expected outcome (based on historical returns), but also compliment each other for diversification sake. Here’s our draft choices: Husband- - VOO- S&P 500 (70%) - VOO- Mid Cap (10%) - QQQ- Tech (10%) - VWO- Emerging Markets (5%) - VT- Total World (5%) Wife- - VTI- Total US (70%) - VB- Small Cap (10%) - VUG - Growth (10%) - VEA- Developed Markets (5%) - VT- Total World (5%) Any recommendations for changes or additions?
Depends on the ETF. The common index based funds like VT, VTI, VOO, VXUS are all quite well diversified stock only funds. You can pair that with something like BND if you want to add some bonds/fixed income. Specialized ETF's like AVUV are not well diversified at all. Though that's their selling point, and great if you want to tilt into some more risk(for hopefully more reward). SPY isn't a great fund for individuals, a cheaper fund that holds the exact same thing would be VOO. Personally if you want US only stocks, then I'd recommend VTI instead. If you want 100% global equities, then VT is where it's at. If you aren't sure, I'd say stick to these 2 funds: * VT (100% global equities, roughly 60% is US specific) * BND (100% US bonds) If you are totally YOLO, then 100% VT is fine, but expect 50% cuts in your net worth on occasion, for up to a decade. This year it's only around 20% down, pretty mild so far :) If you want less volatility add some BND. Probably no more than 20-40%. Warren Buffet recommends 10% and that's where Target Date retirement funds generally start. I recommend reading this pdf [If You Can](http://flip4u.org/docs/If%20You%20Can%20Millenials-Bill%20Bernstein.pdf).
Depending on your financial situation, anything in a custodial or account she owns will be considered her asset and impact her FAFSA so take that into consideration. As far as investing it. Set and forget VT or VTI/VXUS (or equivalent ETF). I would put it in my own separate taxable account and earmark it to make a decision on what to do with when she gets closer to 18. For example, if she starts working at 16, you can start contributing to her Roth IRA up to the amount (to the contribution cap) she earns annually. Having that money in a taxable will allow you to sell and contribute to her Roth. There are tax implications to you but you at least have the choice.
In my opinion, the safest investment that isn't bonds would be a low cost index fund, like VT. These track a collection of stocks, VT being a market cap weighted approximation of >500 companies globally. SPY is similar and does only American companies (S&P 500). If history can be trusted this should appreciate nicely over 17 years. Hindsight will probably show something that was better, but the risk is among the lowest in the market
Not sure why you got downvoted for this. VT is far more diversified (holds over 9000 stocks vs 500 as with VOO or SPY). People see that US returns have recently dominated international markets. However, winners rotate. Just because U.S. has outperformed in recent years does not mean it is any more likely to beat international going forward. VT is the way
VT is total world index fund, which by definition includes VOO (S&P 500). If you're talking about a global / US split, it would be better to go with VTI (total US stock market index) and VXUS (total international stock market index). Or, if you're cool with Vanguard's US vs. international weighting, just go 100% VT (total world stock market index).
Why not VT (world market)? Maybe the US will do well, maybe not so well. With the USD very high at the moment and valuations also cheaper elsewhere it might be better to diversify more widely into VT. The main thing is to then LEAVE IT ALONE. So not try to time your way in and out of the market.
If you're going 100% stocks, I'd suggest you think about 70% VTI and 30% VXUS (Int'l Stocks). It's simple, solid, & captures "the market", with a tilt towards US stocks. My son is 70% in VT, 15% NTSX, 10% VB, 5% EM, overweighting small cap and emerging markets a bit. NTSX is a 90/60 fund that uses LT Bond futures, which as leverage goes is pretty safe. The Equity component helps overweight US stocks a bit. It's another way to do things, and I bring it up because the truth is that once you have a solid base, how you fill in around the edges is of lesser importance. I changed my AA many times when I was younger, but stayed invested and always owned a big chunk of the S&P 500. 25+ years and a 9.19% CAGR (excluding contributions ofc.) It's not Warren Buffet type returns, but it will get you to 7 figures over 2 to 3 decades. The most important two things though, are 1) to find or derive a mix of investments you believe in. If you believe in it, you'll be able to hold w/o selling during the market declines, until the market recovers. 2) hold mostly broad market index funds that are mostly or entirely stocks. This will not only be simple, but will probably be what makes your long term results successful. Diversification is protection against not knowing what you are doing, and please don't be insulted by this, but you clearly don't know what you are doing. I still don't know what I am doing in certain respects, and that's a key reason I invest in Index Funds. BTW, one reason most stock pickers fail to beat the market is because the odds are against them. Using the S&P 500 as an example, with average returns about 10% (which varies a lot YTY, obv) stock returns are highly skewed, with around 70% losing money in most years. Another 10% may make 0-10% on avg, and usually only 15-20% beat the S&P 500 total return. Remember, a single stock can gain 10,000%, but can't lose more than 100%. This dynamic makes finding those relatively rare outperformers difficult, and it's one reason that owning the entire market is a highly successful strategy. Hope that helps.
Stanford math, music, and CS student. I have a part-time at a lab doing CS research. When starting to trade, I dabbled a bit in options and bought GME at its peak but now, I just go the safe route of putting everything in VT because it's less work. Thus, I mostly browse this sub for entertainment. I use some of the extra money from my full-ride scholarship and job to invest in my Roth IRA and ETFs.
Pick one of: 1. 100% Target Retirement Date Fund (it would only be around 10% bonds if you choose the appropriate retirement date, and not increase for many years) 2. 100% VT [global stocks] 2. 100% VTI [US stocks] 3. 100% VOO [500 biggest US stocks] Don't buy individual stocks unless you know what you are doing. I think you can have more fun with individual stocks when you have more than $2500 to invest.
Ah got it, well I'm more of a Boglehead when it comes to investing so I'd say sell the stuff thats not working and dump that money into the ETFs tracking the S&P 500. Just my two cents as if you have an etf like VTI there isn't really a reason unless your doing FIRE to hold anything else ass all other US based companies are in VTI and if you wanted to add international go with VT or VXUS or VEA/VWO.
The rules are not really clear if that is a wash sale or not. Right now selling SPY for VOO/IVV is not a wash sale even though they all track the S&P500 index. So usually selling a mutual fund and buying an ETF would not be a wash sale. The issue is vangaurd structures their funds as duel share classes, the ETF/MF is one fund ; just different share classes So this is probably one of those things that is not exactly well defined and probably would only come up during an audit. I guess to avoid any headache I might just sell the VT and then buy something like VTI/VXUS to replicate the same allocation .
>So if you buy less than a share of VT, it would only disallow a small portion of your loss from VTWAX (I suppose you should convert the dollar amounts since they have different share prices, $50 = ~1.6 shares of VTWAX). Excellent. A bit part of it was because I didn't realize wash sales also I cluded share purchases 30 days *before* a sale. I purchased VT on the 3rd, and sold VTWAX on the 4th. I'll just let the cash sit in my settlement fund until December. Though this rally is irksome to watch.
Since VT and VTWAX are share classes of the same fund, I believe that would count as a wash sale (but the rules are not very clear). And because they are at different brokers, your 1099s won't reflect the wash sale for you. You have to record it yourself on your taxes, both for this sale and whenever you/she eventually sells the VT. Wash sales only apply to the number of shares you rebuy. So if you buy less than a share of VT, it would only disallow a small portion of your loss from VTWAX (I suppose you should convert the dollar amounts since they have different share prices, $50 = ~1.6 shares of VTWAX). If you reinvest the full amount within 30 days, that would disallow the whole loss.