DRIP
Direxion Daily S&P Oil & Gas Exp. & Prod. Bear 2X Shares
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What are the benefits to simplifying your holdings?
Vanguard Options automatically set DRIP and outrageous fees
Want to invest $500/month in dividend stocks using DRIP. Suggestions?
TIL that energy stocks are actually war stocks!
Any broker that you can set target allocations and direct all contributions to targets?
Have a fidelity account I don’t put money in but has some stocks….
Why are many (especially young people) investing in dividends?
Thoughts on my equity portfolio? Target is growth by lower down capture. Diversified through etf’s- all equal weighted and rebalanced quarterly. Dividends all DRIP.
Does DRIP artificially inflate the value of a stock? Are there any arbitrage opportunities?
Is now a good time to exit oil and invest in inverse oil ETFs?
How important is BRK-B not having a dividend in terms of capital appreciation without getting taxed?
Total Return ETFs listed in the US for capital growth over time with 0 dividend?
Moving to a new home - Does keeping the current home as a rental property/RE investment worth it?
Navigating the Turbulent Oil Market: Challenges with Diesel Prices, Shrinking Margins, and Evolving Trade Practices - The Case for DRIP
Navigating the Turbulent Oil Market: Challenges with Diesel Prices, Shrinking Margins, and Evolving Trade Practices - The Case for DRIP
Looking to do some DRIP investing Thoughts on REITs
I asked Google's Bard about an investing strategy I heard about. I'm curious to see what the humans here think about Bard's response.
After some deep TA, I'm gonna increase my position in DRIP.
Is now not a good time to invest in oil ETFs for a quick profit?
What is the deal with $ITE and $ITEEF? Am I really investing in the same company (I3 Energy)?
How best to reinvest cash from dividends earned in my Traditional and Roth IRA
I currently follow the Bogle wisdom. Is there a better way?
Does someone hold OILD for shorting oil and can explain what’s going on here?
Why does everyone hate on TQQQ long term investing?
$ZIM REGARD IS BACK WITH HIS YTD PERFORMANCE AND HIS PLAYS FOR Q1/Q2 2023 $VOO will become my new $ZIM
$ZIM REGARD IS BACK WITH HIS YTD PERFORMANCE AND HIS PLAYS FOR Q1/Q2 2023
General Roth IRA Question - Enrolling in DRIP when exceeding the income limit?
Seems Fidelity doesn't add to your cost basis when you DRIP.
If you had $40,000 to invest, where would you put it and why?
Is my logic sound for someone in their early/mid 20s?
Do fractional shares at Robinhood accumulate into whole shares?
Please explain like I'm five: dividends taxed twice.
Brokerage account not calculating accurately after HMMJ reverse split?
I am really liking the looks of DRIP, here are my thoughts.
Different Fill Prices for Reinvested Dividends at ETrade vs. TDameritrade?
Different fill prices for reinvested dividends at ETrade vs. TDAmeritrade?
Why not maximize Roth IRA with closed-end-funds at 7-12% yield with DRIP? (I already max 401k + 457b with SPY/VTI)
Is this a good start to passive income. Set and forget?
Lots of people talking about the Etrade SPY Drip bug but I think I win, $137,000,000 into my account
Why is owning the index (ie. S&P 500) recommend more so than REITs?
DRIP ETF'S one week return last week as of Friday evening after market close.
ETF distribution yield is way higher than what the official yield states???
Inverse stocks - Using the immediate premium from a PUT credit spread to fund a bullish call spread
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Just tell her you’re holding and will get it back. Any DRIP going on here? It will keep buying for you at the lower price.
Just holding FSKAX there already isn't the issue. Wash sale risk comes from a new buy or DRIP inside the window, not old shares just sitting there. I'd still turn off IRA auto-invest/DRIP if you want zero footguns.
This is the main reason for my concern. I know reinvested dividends and, of course, forgotten auto-buys can trigger a wash - and recently discovered that if you trigger wash from TLH an asset in a taxable account and buying it in an IRA too soon you lose the ability to ever realize the loss, big yikes. Aside from the known concerns - DRIP & auto-buys - is there anything else I might be missing in terms of the small execution details you mentioned? Thanks!
I'd just drip man. I do a very similar strategy as you, rebalancing as I inject capital every pay period. You're realistically just adding a lot of overhead and mental weight to the notion of more appropriately investing what amounts to cents in the long run. If you're getting dividends from things you don't believe in and wouldn't care to own more of, I think that might be a more pressing thing to think about. DRIP is what turns a handful of shares into several handfuls of shares.
I keep trying to time the bottom on oil and do a DRIP play, but chickening out. Today I said fuck it riding GUSH to valhalla, this retard has no idea what's going on and has no control over anything but bombing shit.
DRIP on makes things simpler and keeps your money working immediately. DRIP off gives you more control to buy underweight funds instead of automatically adding to whatever paid the dividend. Since you’re already putting new money toward underweights monthly, leaving DRIP off fits your current style and helps you rebalance without selling. One thing to keep in mind is that in a taxable account, turning DRIP off might create more small tax lots to track, but that’s manageable. Either way, it’s more about what keeps you consistent than a right or wrong answer.
Totally makes sense. I’m mostly on top of DRIP and auto-buys too. Just to confirm though, even if I accidentally trigger a wash sale by buying a share too early, I can wait 30+ days to sell that share and the original loss will then become allowable, correct?
Those swap pairs are the least scary part here. I'd worry more about stray DRIP / auto-buys in any taxable account, and about estimated-tax safe harbor, than about VTI -> FSKAX or VXUS -> FTIHX.
This is the "snowball" that everyone talks about, but the magic really is in the *automatic* nature of it. I think a lot of beginners (myself included) see a dividend as "free cash" to spend, not as fuel for the engine. When u turn on DRIP and just let it run for long time, u stop thinking of it as income and start seeing it as the accelerator pedal for your share count. Thanks for the reminder.
1. Then there’s no significant difference between them. I suppose you could argue DRIP is slightly more optimal since it will keep you fully invested pretty much all the time, but that’s a tiny difference. 2. Yes. Though you can (arguably should) be tax loss harvesting either way
Full time for a bit more than a year now---part time for about 15 years. Moatly selling spreads on SPX and NDX daily. Also have a good sized portfolio of didvidend paying stocks on DRIP currently as my safety net. Biggest challenge lately is Trump tweeting something......my three largest losses (by far) are all due to his truth social messages.
Hmm.. brought some DRIP shares. Gonna sell covered calls on them, pretty cheap decent return, should be low risk.
Honestly, your system already works DRIP off just gives you more flexibility when you rebalance each month.
Difficult to say... I think I'd wait for a decent timing, sell 50% of that and use the 50% to DRIP on ETFs
Is there any theoretical financial/economic/mathematical reason to keep buying the same amounts (not what I'm doing), do DRIP, and then every quarter sell and buy to rebalance? Forgetting for a moment convenience and conviction. Like allowing momentum to take its course for a bit? Or is it purely a convenience factor (allowing people to just automate and only check every few months)?
DRIP off is the smarter play here. You're already doing the work manually, so let the dividends pull double duty as your rebalancing lever.
I only do DRIP if it comes with a discount. Otherwise it goes in the same pot as all my other money and gets spent or invested as by budget dictates.
I’d probably keep DRIP off in your case. Since you’re already using new money + dividends to fix underweights, it gives you more control over your allocation. DRIP is great for simplicity, but it can push more money into already overweight positions. Your current monthly rebalance approach sounds solid and disciplined
How you're doing it is fine. DRIP is nice for convenience because it's all automated and you don't have to think about it. But if you're diligent about reinvesting it manually monthly, nothing wrong with that. It's also perfectly fine to maintain balance how you are doing it, buying what's underweighted each month and doing a yearly rebalance only if needed.
Yeah robinhood looks good and is really easy to use for beginners but it lacks several key features that make it hard to take seriously as a brokerage for investors or traders. No money market settlement fund and their high yield cash sweep program has only very recently started counting cash held as options collateral in your account. And the comission free trading isn't so free. Payment for order flow is a very real thing that impacts the options market the most. I've used Robinhood and Fidelity to trade options and I've noticed the fills I get on Fidelity are mostly better than Robinhood. Often more than enough to offset Fidelity's fees. And you still cant own mutual funds on Robinhood but they started advertising short selling to retail investors. Im glad Robinhood exists because it helped me and many others get into investing. But in my opinion, if you want to do anything besides DRIP VOO and chill you should get out of Robinhood
Sorry you’re dealing with that. In a situation like this, I’d usually try to work the paper trail from multiple directions: \- old tax returns / dividend statements \- unclaimed property databases in every state he may have lived in \- transfer agents / DRIP records \- old brokers or banks \- probate records if any were filed Sometimes the fastest progress comes from identifying even one old account number, statement, or dividend issuer and then working outward from there.
\- 50% VOO, 25% VXUS, 10% BND, and 15% individual stocks you research that you might like/believe in. \- Set up auto buy so you buy VOO, VXUS, BND, etc monthly to dollar cost average and build your porfolio. \- Make sure DRIP is on (dividend reinvestment plan) so when your ETFs pay you 4x a year, you buy more of the stock using the dividend. I recommend using Fidelity or Charles Schwab as your platform. \- Finally, leave it all alone and never sell until its time for retirement or to rebalance your porfolio. Profit. And one last tip, don't ever fuck with options, ever.
No more trading for you. This will suck ass, but you can still claw your way out: Work, invest 75% in $VOO & 25% in $VPU, set both to DRIP & don't look at it or jack with it (hopefully your name isn't Jack). Learn Lean methodologies & live Lean. Come back to r/WSB & post a screenshot when your account hits $100k. Long & tedious, but do-able.
As with all things in investing, that's only true sometimes. In particular, saying "high-yield dividend stocks with dividend reinvestment plans(DRIP) generate significantly superior compound returns compared to gold and silver" would be wildly inaccurate for the past 3 years. Just to pick a random ETF focused on high dividend income, HYBL is a quality fund and over the past 3 years, with dividends reinvested, you would have earned 25.3%. On the other hand, if you had bought GLDM, you would have earned 127%.
Tax efficient is spot-on. Many are missing how much time this gives you to reinvest the monthly dividends into a sizable, income generating machine before taxes are due. At that point, just setting aside a month of distribution per year will aid in paying those taxes. It has seriously been working for me for about a year and a half. The key is staying consistent with the monthly buys (for me is $2000 a month), DRIP, and dont look back. In 6 years or so, Ill begin owing taxes but could be generating 70k a year in income. Other covered call ETFs will have you paying taxes yearly.
I beat the S&P for 15 years. My portfolio was 50% VOO and 25% COST, 15% AAPL, and 10% AMZN. I held all of these positions with a DRIP with out selling for 15 years…
Within a 3-year investment horizoz, high-yield dividend stocks with dividend reinvestment plans(DRIP) generate significantly superior compound returns compared to gold and silver. Gold functions as a long-term inflation hedge, rather than a suitable asset for 3-year capital sppreciation. we recommend investin in high-quality Dividend Aristocrat stocks.
DRIP lets gooooooooo !!!!!!
No state or local taxes. Our taxable income is just below $300k, so we get 15% on the full amount (minus DRIP). This how I understand it.
DRIP - will it drip some more?
might trim some more UVIX and roll it into DRIP 🤔
Buy high, sell low. Ya, that's a great plan. You lost nothing till you sell. Just stop looking at it. Also you will get dividends and if you are DRIP you can lower your average cost basis. Check back the year you actually need the money.
what you think DRIP can go to after trump says its over?
I am in dilemma too and I have 50k(because of DRIP) shares bought longtime ago around 5.00 Been collecting dividends. If I need to raise cash to buy something that doubles my investment, then i will sell few but not all. I like that production increased which would increase revenues and dividends(even at 75.00 oil price).
buy DRIP and SCO and watch $$$
Have been buying F shares in a DRIP fund for my kids for 7 years.. the dividends are good.. about 4 percent.. yearly.. has grown shares count quite quickly… my kids each get about 600 bucks this year in dividends. But we reinvested it back in..
I have actively avoided dividend heavy strategies throughout my 20s and 30s and will continue to do so. Most dividend focused investments aren't beating the market even with a DRIP approach and non qualified dividends are taxed at ordinary income which erodes gains. Appreciation isn't taxed. Dividend investing at a young age might "feel" good, but doesn't seem like a mathematically sound choice if you are earning income and in the accumulation phase of your life.
I’ve started to DCA into DRIP
Just full ported to being bearish on oil with DRIP/SCO. How retarded is this play?
I'm going to try to help. After 25 years, and now gliding into retirement so needing to be conservative I finally have enough cash, mainly from not the markets, to be uber conservative. I now employ a slow and steady highly diversified multi-income approach with a goal of 15-25% annual returns. I wheel only non-tech blue chip stocks. Each target has an annualized ROI of 10%, closing early increases the return and is viewed as a gift from the Wall Street gods. The wheeling is backed by cash sitting in laddered 90 day UST's returning 3.6%. So right there I'm getting 13.6%! 30% of my funds are in JEPQ ad PEO using DRIP. That's giving me 10% compounding. Then for daily fun I have short term SPX Iron Condor strategies that are very conservative and work for me. I only swing at the easy pitches here. This is what I view as fun money and when added to the above it gets me to an annual return after taxes that gives me a consistent net after tax return of 15-20% each year. For me an annual return of 18.3% is 15% after taxes. Take $100K with 15% after tax return, that will double every five years and grow to $1m after 16.5 years. Now add to that other income generators like buying and fixing up real estate on the weekends and having a good 9-5 job with an employer match on the 401(k) and you to can retire in your early fifties. Added to the above is that I was raised to live like a peasant. This Sunday I'll be replacing the brakes on my truck for $175, it should take two hours. A garage would want $900 for the same work. Take this one act of peasantry and multiply it over the course of every day of your life and you'll save easily $1mil of your after tax dollars, and you know that when shit gets done it gets done correctly and not by some high school drop out.
Thesis: Internal combustion engine sales peaked in 2017, those vehicles are starting to age out of the fleet, so basically fewer ICE engines on the road every year from here to forever. There will be ups and downs, but overall the direction is all but certain. China vehicle sales are over 60% EV, Europe just passed 50%. Much of the developing world are buying cheap chinese EV's. The world will be at 50% EV market share soon, and current oil price spike will only accelerate that. Trucking is now electrifying. The real violence is what happens when financial markets really start to price in the stranded assets of oil producers that will never be produced. Yes, I know jet fuel, plastics and a thousand non-vehicular uses for oil exist. I'm just saying that global demand will decline, slowly at first and then faster. Strategy: I'm still working on the trade. Open to ideas. Recently started a tiny position in DRIP, might just DCA into more of that. Another approach would be Poor Man's Covered Put (diagonal buy long LEAPS put and sell weekly or monthly short puts to reduce cost basis of the long put. Ticker selection further complicated by the fact I am bullish on natgas due to insatiable electricity demand from datacenters and EV's. I like to have some short exposure generally speaking to hedge my overall long portfolio. Oil will go down if we have an economic collapse - which could ironically be caused by oil being high.
What did he say? Opened a short as soon as I gave someone here the DRIP ticker lol
Makes sense to switch strategies as your portfolio grows. I'm still in the DRIP phase since my regular contributions can handle most rebalancing, but I can see how manually directing dividends gives you way more control over allocation when the numbers get bigger.
I've held Couche Tard since early 2001 when I was 21 years old, only because my neighbor worked for the company and told me they were going to be expanding all over the globe etc. BTW Couche Tard in the USA is OTC ANCTF. They own all the Circle Ks globally. Anyways I used $3500 out of a good sized poker tournament I won back then and forgot about that stock I had bought back then, luckily she helped me setup the acct and manage it for me. It's now valued at 926k and the dividends are very large now. I just last month turned the DRIP off and had it moved to my other investment account. I've been buying and selling the company in my roth ira recently as well just because I know first hand what a compounding machine this company is. Id highly recommend this stock to anyone, especially going forward they have retired a huge amount of shares and keep raising the dividend. It's recession proof as people always need gas and beer, with an excellent management team. Best decision I ever made was to dump 3500 into the convience stores my neighbor was a director at.
DRIP is fine for set and forget. If you care about allocations, use dividends to buy whatever is underweight. In taxable, I usually only bother when the dividends are big enough to matter.
I vary drip vs rebalancing on each individual company. If I think a company is still a buy I DRIP.
I have beeen investing in HON since the mid 1990 via their DRIP program. Only sold once during Covid to redo kitchen. Still holding and waiting for the spin-offs.
Both are fine. DRIP keeps things simple and compounding, while using dividends to rebalance can help keep your allocation in check. Most people just DRIP and rebalance with new money. Either way the key is staying invested 😅📈
My idea that I suggested to Schwab: a feature that turns DRIP on/off for a particular equity or fund when the P/E goes above/below your set ratio.
Dividends, and especially DRIP, don’t pay for lifestyle.
DRIP just keeps you invested and not having money on the sidelines. Other than than, buying at the lower price isn't adding value. It's just a tax consideration.
I used DRIP when my investment amounts were small enough that I could rebalance with my regular contributions. The amounts are high enough now that rebalancing requires more than my contributions so I stopped DRIP and manually rebalance with every dividend.
Sure good point on the wash sale if buying it again within the 61-day wash sale window, but I’m thinking more of a sale outside of this window. It seems like you could take the dividend that offsets the capital loss and simultaneously tax harvest the loss, if outside the wash sale window. Unless I’m mistaken, this actually seems like the preferable exit if one had bought it high in the monthly cycle. DRIP would need to be disabled though.
I just bought 1k of DRIP when oil hit like 84 ish
Where I'm from that's called a DRIP
Remember that DRIP and GUSH are out to get you.
Overall, I like your thesis, but too many pieces to all fall in line together. I may buy some calls on GUSH to play this war drum beating, but if things do spike, I will pivot to DRIP
More PLTY. I'm at 925 shares and just got a WEEKLY dividend disbursement of $364. I made sure DRIP was still enabled and when NFLX pops again during market hours I'm setting a trailing stop order and using that $ to buy more PLTY. I'm getting laid off next Fri-yay so I'll turn off DRIP and use the dividend as income while I'm out of work.
Make sure you turn on DRIP to grow your earnings over time
Split coming. I got the same letter. Keep DRIP the free cash for free shares.
That’s what I’m doing and have been for years. I also set up DRIP so my dividends just get rolled back into it. A lot of financial advisors recommend this route. Also look into T-Bills and CD’s. Set them up in a ladder.
If it were me I'd sell everything in individual stocks and then split it between $VTI (20%), $VOO (55%), and $VXUS(25%) and then have them turn on. "DRIP" for those funds. Forget about it... Come back in 20 years. $VTI and $VOO are nearly identical but you get some limited small and medium cap exposure. If you don't believe in US stability (this administration is devaluing the dollar and seems questionable on a lot of their economic choices on the world stage). You could flip the sizing of $VOO with $VXUS and go 55% into VXUS... or some other allocation. $VOO has been a consistent performer though.
That alone is enough to retire wealthy on if you buy something like VTI and hide the password from yourself for 25 years. Make sure and turn on DRIP before you log out forever.
If you choose to sell the stocks and then go into any investment (like an ETF or stocks) that pay a dividend be sure to check ✅ DRIP, which is Dividend Reinvestment Plan. That way every time the dividend is paid out it just buys more of the ETF so you can compound the interest.
These should take you about 2 hours to complete: 1) Sell it all and open a Roth IRA and pay the taxes (20%?). It should have $0 management fees. 2) Buy FCT and keep it for 35 years until you need it for retirement. Be sure to set it to automatically reinvent dividends (called “DRIP”). 3) forget about it until you retire; do not sell any part of it, and do not change it. This should be worth roughly 32x the current value, so $100k * 32 -> $3.2M. If you manage to hold off on retiring for 7 more years, it’ll be worth $6.4M. There will be no taxes owed at that point. FCT does not make money by *growing* dividends; instead, it simply finds & buys stock of quality companies that are temporarily paying high dividends, and pays 8-12% yield a year *to you*. Its stock price also floats between $8/share and $12/share, and so you don’t really care about the stock price... just wait for it to reach $12 before selling. Look at its 20-year chart, if you want some reassurance. An “all world ETF” is subject to world events, which are in limbo right now with random tariffs and US debt worries. IOW, when other countries do well, the US will suffer, and those effects will balance out your gains to sub-par. Climate change is also going to take a huge chunk of money to fix, and no models factor that into price forecasts. Plus, you may have to pay foreign taxes, even in an IRA.
Sell Tesla and put in an S&P ETF like SPY or VOO. Could also go with a dividend etf like SCHD. Whatever ETF you go for, make sure you turn on DRIP. Its a Dividend ReInvestment Program. Helps your money compound faster. You will have capital gains taxes to pay, but its worth doing imo. You should also open a ROTH IRA. You can contribute $7k towards 2025 until 4/15/26, and you can also contribute for 2026 as well. So maybe sell $15k worth, move it to a ROTH IRA, and buy the ETFs there. Roth IRA let's your money grow tax free, but the downside is that you can really use the money until you are much older. However, being 21, you can slowly move these funds into a Roth IRA, and hit Coast FIRE by the time your 25-30.
Both VWRA and VWRD have relatively high expense ratios of 0.19%. If you can, you’re better off buying VT with its 0.06% expense ratio and turning on DRIP. At 120k, that would save you about 150 dollars in fees each year.
That's correct. You avoid tax drag in Roth. In Roth, dividends just have no effect on total return (assuming DRIP), rather than being a net negative.
Fractional shares were available before most people were born But the only way to get this for individual investors is through company sponsored DRIP programs. With the advent of computers and the web may companes stopped ther DRIP programsadd brokerages gave investors the option in the brokerage app. And then at least some brokerages allowed purchasing of fractional shares. All of this was available long ago to institutional investors but it was very hard for investors to to get until recently.
[https://www.google.com/search?q=Scotia+iTRADE+DRIP](https://www.google.com/search?q=Scotia+iTRADE+DRIP) >**How to Enroll in Scotia iTRADE DRIP:** >Log in to your Scotia iTRADE account. >Navigate to the **Account** section, then select the **Menu** (three bars). >Look for the **Manage DRIP/DPP** option within the security actions or account settings to toggle it on.
Compare the rate of return of the S&P over the last year which is approximately 11%. Compare that to the rate of return on a HYSA over a similar period. You’re lucky if you get 4.5%. 11% is more than double that of 4.5% and the 11% doesn’t include DRIP.
~21k in SGOV as my emergency fund same as always. Currently accounts for about 2.5% of my net worth. I let it DRIP to account for inflation.
Webull and Fidelity..do both !! Webull: Easy UI.. Easy debit card transfers (making jumping into trades and whole.lot faster) Great DRIP (dividend re-investment program) .... Fidelity: Legacy, large, powerful.. Their Fidelity cash account is AWSOME !!.. 10K per card swipe max on basic debit card. Global ATM transaction.. Allows you to be completely mobile financially.
For a 3-5 year horizon you can do much better than a measly 3.5% distribution rate. Consider putting the 100k in SPYI, QQQI, and IAUI at equal weights. QQQI has a distribution rate of over 14%, SPYI at 11.8% and IAUI at roughly 12%. Set it to DRIP, so every month, the dividends are automatically reinvested and you'll pay no taxes because they're return of capital(ROC). Just keep doing that until you need the money down the road.
Can you explain compound interest with everything in VOO? Is it just about DRIP where dividends goes back in?
I spent a life, working, loving, sharing , playing , crying and every other thing you could imagine. I always had a busy schedule that kept me active from sunrise til sunset and then some. Most of that time was amazingly happy and I lived paycheck to paycheck. As life went and I got old, I started spending more time in front of a computer, on a smart phone and watching TV. The enjoyment of life in this new realm is absolutely bleak. If you want to feel good, you have to go out and live. Go to church, go for walks, go to a gym, go to a resturaunt, go to a grociery store but GO. No delivery. get off the screen and get out and live. I know I am going to be doing it alot more after reading and responding to this post. Thank you for helping me and make sure you put the dividend on DRIP so it slowly but surely grows for you!!!!
i'll be real. trading options is gambling. if you are prone to being emotional, get upset with losing, be able to do nothing when the sky is falling.. maybe stick to a broad market ETF and just DCA/DRIP. i wish someone would have told me this a decade ago... i'd be retired instead of working two jobs. an etf will move 20%, a stock will move 50% or more. it will go against you, then reverse, then reverse again, then sit and do nothing for months... some people (like me) can tolerate such insanity. my account moves four figures almost daily. i still sip my coffee and read financial statements while the sky is falling. i am an empty shell. do something more fulfilling with your life. live beneath your means, invest in broad market etfs, and forget about that money until your are in your 60s.
I have been a longtime holder of HON since the late 1990 via their DRIP program. I initially was invest $100/month then switched to $500/quarter, added extra cash along the way. Sold ASIX, REZI and GTX spin-offs and purchased more HON. It is my largest individual position nearing 7 figures. I have only sold once (100 shares) to redo the kitchen during Covid. SOLS is not as slow growth as people think as they have unique positions with little competitions in many of their segments (like uranium purification)- it will do well in the long term as they will offload under performing segments. The more interesting thing to me is that HON did not take a hit with the spin-off. I am now eagerly awaiting aerospace and automation spin-offs.
401k/Roth - upped my contributions. Stocks - DRIP and weekly ETF contributions My strategy has worked well for me for the past 10 years or so.
Fidelity makes sense if you already have retirement accounts there. One place to see everything is underrated for long-term sanity. The fractional shares and DRIP work the same as RH. Schwab's fractional support is more limited which matters if you're doing regular small buys. Since you mentioned possibly moving abroad - double check their policies for non-resident accounts. Both Fidelity and Schwab handle this better than RH, but rules vary by country. One thing I started doing: using a separate portfolio tracker app to aggregate everything. Even with accounts consolidated at one broker, it's nice to see the full picture with performance over time in one place.
I mean, I would figure an auto invest would trigger market orders, which would leave you at the mercy of the brokerage + the market to determine your buy price on a given day. I stopped doing market orders a long time ago. But then I also don't have an auto invest feature turned on, either... except DRIP.
in chunks over time regardless of price. set up the DRIP too.
Sorry, folks who held speculative tech stocks that offer 0 dividend, seeing they're underwater over five (5) year span. I invested in stuffy, dividend stalwarts, while DRIP gained more equity, while earning more straight. What's the new entry point on ASTS , lol
I never got the hype tbh. RH has limited reach and has always been considered a "beginner's" platform. It initially lured in retail investors who had very little expendable income by offering a simple UI and commission free trading which was unheard of at the time. Eventually, all the big players got pissed RH was gaining market share so they started offering commission free trading as well. Problem for RH is that the big boys could also offer DRIP and as well as fractional shares which RH was very late to the game with. RH also charged a subscription fee for access to trade options (lol). This caused an exodus away from RH for more focused and longterm investors as well as the degens who wanted to gamble on options. With a clearly established user base of low income retail investors, RH bafflingly played a big part in the GME fiasco when they deactivated the buy and sell button on GME stock during the peak of the meme stock craze. So if RH has effectively burnt their bridge with experienced investors, retail investors, and degen gamblers all at once... who's left using this shitty platform? I don't know why it pumped in 2025 because I've avoided this company for years but I'm not at all surprised by it's fall in 2026. There's too many better options out there.
Thanks for reminding me to turn on DRIP
I’ve decreased my US large cap growth-heavy holdings to about 50% and am buying up more US small cap value, international, some reits and dividend and income stocks to DRIP for SOME yield. Maintaining my 10% gold allocation for now
I didn’t formally backtest but I think international substantially outperformed in 2025. For example, VXUS returned ~32% while QQQ yielded ~21% and SPY was ~18%. My strategy is a little more nuanced than those three but it’s a good illustration. I also leaned towards dividend plays with DRIP to make progress during periods of sideways chop and volatility
100K in boomer shit like SCHD. It’s energy heavy with a 3% divy. If rates go down people will move out of bonds. Plus energy needs making XOM come out of a generational breakout. Plus adds diversification if you have a tech heavy portfolio. Still leaves you with 400k to fuck around with 🤷 oh, and add DRIP
I hear you on that. That’s why I usually avoid DRIP to keep whole number shares. Btc is a different beast for me though. Not gonna wait for a certain 5 figure value of my liking to deploy on obvious buying opportunities. It’s like wanting to only buy full shares of brk.a
I have been a longtime holder of HON since the late 1990 via their DRIP program. I initially was invest $100/month then switched to $500/quarter, added extra cash along the way. Sold ASIX, REZI and GTX spin-offs and purchased more HON. It is my largest individual position nearing 7 figures. I have only sold (100 shares) once to redo the kitchen during Covid. SOLS is not as slow growth as people think as they have unique positions with little competitions in many of their segment - it will do well in the long term as they will offload under performing segments.
the accumulation from DRIP during lost decades is the impressive part it's the ultimate DCA
buy a few thousand worth of JEPQ, CGDG, ULTY, CHPY, whatever ultra high dividend motnhly/weekly paying ETFs with minimal NAV erasure or a record of increase you research and fancy to forget about with DRIP on the side. go back to playing with a little more than you originally invested. pay off any credit cards you may have, if they are small enough or worth separating any amount from here to pay
Dude. Do your future self a huge favour and stop holding - putting several million into dividends with DRIP and you will have many more millions 20 years from now.
Nothing is perfect. For me I like the way it tracks dividends and progress so this particular shortcoming is bearable. It is annoying that Schwab is blind to dividends. With snowball, DRIP (stocks in lieu of dividends) is considered part of your gains. Schwab doesn't care if you got dividends (doesn't track that as gains) and when DRIPed it only see the transaction as another purchase that changes your cost basis. Oh, and my favorite: you can see a holding clear progress within an account, or you can group accounts together and see the return of a stock that is spread across several accounts.
The majority of people’s goal with investing into the stock market, is to grow your money. QQQI won’t really grow your money. It will generate income for you. If your goal is to generate a passive stream of steady income then it hasn’t been too bad for me. I understand though it isn’t gonna grow a lot. IMO it isn’t ideal for most people because they just want to DRIP the dividends.