MINT
PIMCO Enhanced Short Maturity Active Exchange-Traded Fund
Mentions (24Hr)
-100.00% Today
Reddit Posts
MedMen Exits Arizona Market, Completing Sale of Local Operations to MINT Cannabis
MedMen Enters into Definitive Agreements to Exit Arizona and Nevada per Announced Strategic Review, Selling Non-Core Assets to MINT Cannabis
Opinions on using PIMCO’s MINT ETF to weather the coming down trend in the market?
GO MINT YOURS 1inch Secures $100M in ICO for New Trading Platform, Starts Free ΝFT ΜINT; Holders Enjoy 0% fees, Plus $25,000 Deposit
MrF was here (and Vitalik Buterin knows that)
I took out a $40,000 Line of Credit and have bought Vinyl records YOLO
I took out a $40,000 Line of Credit and have bought beanie babies YOLO
Mentions
Sydney Sweeney's Sweeties are PSA 10 Gem MINT
MINT’s solid, but with 12+ months in mind, I’d look at treasuries via BIL, SGOV, or even laddering 1-year T-bills. Higher yield, still liquid, and ultra low risk
Do MINT its way cheaper. I was on Verizon before and that shit was not worth it (in a big city too)
Are you disregarding the spread?. Maybe you're talking about MINT for instance. Yes it trades within a 1 cent band for hours but you can't profit from that because you're just seeing the effect of the bid/ask spread. Today for example, you'd have been buying at 100.29 and selling at 100.28. Sorry that people are being rude. You're not asking a dumb question; you just seem unaware of the concept of bid/ask.
BOXX 4.47% APR (based on last 30 days) • WMPXX 4.43% APR (available at Wells for $50+ purchases) NEAR/MINT/JPST might be better • List of MMMF ranked by 7-day-yield. Yahoo Finance gives APR numbers (slightly higher). WMPXX 4.35% (4.43% APR) https://moneymarket.fun
Depending on where you live and the type of account that you are using - you have to factor in taxes. The ultra short duration bond products are taxed differently based on the US state that you live in. I hold some ultrashort duration funds like MINT for example in IRA accounts.
The good thing about income investing is i get money every few weeks from one , so you always have cash building up and have to just deploy it somewhere. I do keep 20-30% in HYSA or cash treasuries like MINT SGOV FTABX etc.
Don't see what the big ado about the debt ceiling is when they can just MINT. THE. COIN.
What’s google at in the overnight market on Robinhood, LET EM MINT
park your funds in ETF MINT for safe high yield returns
I have reduced my exposure to equities and invested the proceeds in short term fixed income ETFs: GSY, PULS, MINT, GSST.
I knew a hairdresser in Silicon Valley. She talked to her clients. Where do you work? Do you like it there? How are they doing? Since these were people she saw every couple of months, she got a good feel for good companies, size, expansion rates, etc. She told me about Avago in 2005. She later learned about Arista from a friend of mine. She had other picks as well. Both of them made her a freaking MINT. She retired during Covid after surviving cancer - an occupational risk of hairdressers only now getting some attention. But those investments set her up. I never acted on any of her tips. I wish I had. She made more off those stocks than I did off stock options at my then employer.
Well I guess you need to be more particular. Lots of banks are very financially sound. They don't really need FDIC and moreover it wouldn't matter much. For example I'd be comfortable with a HYSA at Amex, EverBank, Barclays, E*Trade, PNC... Funds like Pimco's MINT out to say Vanguard VCSH while not offering 100% security are pretty close. These diversify you, though a general banking collapse would still be bad for Mint and VCSH might be too volatile. That being said, if you want to avoid banks and treasuries and want 100% security of principal, setting up a high cash value permanent life insurance policy works. These held up wonderfully during the depression when we lost 1/2 the banking system because insurance companies invest much more conservatively then banks. That's not going to secure you on a dollar collapse however since you are denominated in dollars. For that you'll need something like a short term foreign bond fund. You want that hedged since the whole point I'm assuming is maintaining currency value. So something like DFA 5 year fixed. But ultimately if you are worried about financial stability the funds have to be held outside USA financial institutions.
>🚨 KOREA MINT OFFICIALLY HALTS GOLD BAR SALES TO BANKS AND RETAIL DUE TO SURGING DEMAND. You only have a short time to get more physical gold
This is fucking satanic bullshit. No doubt that Soylent chugging fuck elon is behind this. NO TAX MONEY GETS USED TO MINT THE PENNY, THE MINT IS ENTIRELY SELF FUNDED FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK at least I didn't get rid of the pennies I had processed out of my change already. I will try to get my hands on as many as possible, hopefully they don't start taking them out of circulation. They won't make money on the melting business but those soys probably still think they can. I WISH I HAD ACTED SOONER, I SHOULD HAVE SEEN THIS COMING FUCK This is just like in 1933 when the government started confiscating gold. this is tyrannical
Long: U.S. TIPs ladder of individual bonds, held to maturity (retirement), to augment Social Security. No other long term bond holdings. BND, FBND, IEF All with duration under 9 years. VEMBX for some emerging market. MINT for very short term.
The funny thing is, many of these car makers can likely make a MINT by bringing back classic designs with updated interior electronics. However... it'll never happen.
Dump it in something like MINT and just collect disbursements. That's what I do with all the money I might need again. I have a RH account that I fund 10% of my allocation to. That's just for gambling. Then I have a 50% allocation to roth retirement. The other 40% goes into MINT, which I then sell as needed to buy other positions or put money in my spending account. It's basically a liquidity HSA and the SP has been flat, even through covid. It's a pretty safe play for money you can't technically afford to lose
If I would be keeping the money invested for 6 years and can also afford to re-invest the dividends into the fund for that time, GOVT. (For more yield, and more risk, I like FBND, also a 6 year duration.) If I need the money for any reason in next two years, SGOV. (JPIE or MINT for more yield and risk.)
Any amount works in terms of making you money. But the funds will typically have a minimum investment. An example is MINT which has a $100 minimum. So, basically, meant for anyone (with money :) ). Most likely you declare any gains as ordinary income if held less then 60 day before dividend issued and qualified dividend after that. Google something like: MINT etf dividends taxed To get money out: The fund share values increase as the dividend accumulates so you can sell any time. Shortly after the dividend is paid out, the funds share price drops by that amount. So you can sell at anytime and get the unrealized dividend up to that pint in time in the price of the shares. Typically, you'd set it up so dividends are re-invested in new shares so it "marches" forward (your price per share will drop after a dividend payment but if the dividend is re-invested then the number of shares you have goes up keeping everything even). I'm just using MINT as an example and not a recommendation. There are lots of short duration fixed income funds out there. Some are all U.S. Treasuries and others cast a wider net, etc. Some will not have state taxes on any dividends and others will.
A single 17January MSTR $550 call if MSTR reaches just below $350 is going to be MINT.
All fixed income funds, even BOXX have theorical interest rate risks. It depends on average duration/maturity of the fund. GBIL is a 0-12 month short duration fund with currently an average maturity of 3.5 months. So if you want to reduce interest rate risk - you would use an ultra-short duration equivalent fund like BIL or SGOV which are 0-3 month funds and currently has an average maturity of 1.2 months. So - it really depends on where you think the yield will be and how long you plan to hold the fund. Depending on the amount and your tax situation - you can also look at muni funds. You can also look at ultra-short duration investment grade paper like MINT and SCUS which may have higher yields than treasuries but higher credit risk. Alternatively - you can just roll treasuries yourself or roll your own box spreads if you want to manage your cash actively based on whatever cash management problem you are actually trying to solve.
The current yields are not quite as good as your CD but what I love about these ETFs (and why I use them instead of a CD) is that they distribute divis monthly so you can park your cash there between trades. Current divi rate: MINT: 5.32; USFR: 5.30; SGOV (forgot to mention this one) : 5.24
IMO we are in the middle of a meltup. If you are not familiar with the term: "A melt-up is a sustained and often unexpected improvement in the investment performance of an asset or [asset class](https://www.investopedia.com/terms/a/assetclasses.asp), driven partly by a stampede of investors who don’t want to miss out on its rise, rather than by fundamental improvements in the economy. Gains that a melt-up creates are considered to be unreliable indications of the direction the market is ultimately headed. Melt-ups often precede meltdowns" This is a great time to trade as a daytrader/swingtrader, but not a good environment for the casual buy and hold investor. If you want to want to move your CD to the market, you can go 80% with safe bond-type ETFs like USFR or MINT which has similar returns and safety of a CD, and trade with the other 20%.
I like and hold MINT for ultra-short. For a bit more duration, return and risk I also like JPIE.
As far as active ultra-short bond funds go - I like MINT and I do use it. Recently Schwab released a bunch of new funds - and one of them is an ultra-short active bond fund that has a much lower expense drag than most ultra short bond funds. So I've been using SCUS instead of MINT.
Look at MINT, NEAR, and JPST. Ultra-short bond funds. Better overall return lately, but not as stable as Treasuries. Some better months and some poor months. SGOV
The 5% yield is not going to last forever for that fund or pretty much any short term bond fund imo. Another option for a ultra short term corporate bond fund would be flot, its not actively managed like MINT is. For me personally I wouldn't want a short term bond or cash like fund hogging up my roth IRA space, and trying to time the market you may win you may lose nobody will know for sure.
I assume you realize that both are bank savings accounts. A money market account is not the same thing as a money market fund. Since this is an investing subreddit and not a bank savings subreddit - I normally would suggest keeping the funds in a brokerage account to generate yield on cash. I personally do not ever see any value in using a high yield savings account - but I recognize that some people like the idea of keeping money in a depository institution (ie bank, credit union, S&L, etc.). In general - if you just want to generate yield on cash - there are more flexible ways to do that in a brokerage account than a bank account. Assuming that your broker provides access to fixed income products - if you simply want to generate yield on cash - you first have to decide on your personal risk tolerance and liquidity requirements. Liquidity refers to whether you think you need access to funds for something else in some estimated time-frame horizon. For example - if all you simply want the current risk-free rate with liquid access (similar to holding cash in an interest-bearing bank account like a hysa) - you can simply park your cash in a money market fund. Depending on your tax situation and state of residency - you could consider using either prime, treasury, or muni money market funds. A money market fund is also be more tax efficient than a bank hysa or money market account. You don't have put all 15k into a single investment either - and you can adjust it based on your potential liquidity needs. For example - if you think that you will need that 15k in 24 hours - then you use a highly liquid production like a money market mutual fund. But most people don't usually need their emer fund all at once - especially if they can draw on credit lines - So from a risk, liquidity, time-frame perspective - there are lots of different investing and yield generating options beyond using risk-free to low-risk cash-equivalents. For example - you can ladder your emergency fund or use longer duration cash-equivalent products like SGOV, ICSH, etc. Or you can increase credit risk slightly using ultra-short duration investment grade products like MINT. It really depends on how much effort you want to put into managing your cash and other factors like risk, liquidity, convenience, etc. etc.
Years ago I was on a JBLU flight and Shatner was on the plane. This was before they offered their MINT business class seating, it was all economy seating. So Shatner sat in the first row and had booked out the entire row for himself, no one sat next him. Since he was in the front everyone who walked by said hello and he refused to acknowledge anyone
# IF YOU CANNOT ADMIT TO BEING WRONG AT THIS POINT YOU WILL LITERALLY SPEND THE REST OF YOUR LIFE POOR IF NOT MORE POOR SOMEHOW it's one thing to be wrong. it's another to lose more money than you have to by holding out of desperation. it's an entirely different thing to have every hole in your body plugged by a bool's cock and still somehow be claiming you are right, but the entire world is subject to manipulation such that it specifically harms you. I used to think these people were stupid. theyre not only stupid, theyre narcissistic. just admit you were wrong, close the position, and then go on about your day. youre fucking your brain up and your life up by constantly lying to yourselves about how easy this is supposed to be and how "manipulated it actually is." when there are COUNTLESS FUCKING IDIOTS HERE PRINTING SO MUCH MONEY YOU WOULD THINK THEY WERE THE FEDERAL MINT.
I am a bit risk averse, trying to build a portfolio with low but steady returns. Any feedback? VETY 35% HYG 25% DHS 15% MINT 5% PAVE 7% VRP 3% ARKK 5% EEM 5%
You could be my brother. Out fathers are even the same age and mine also lost a lot of money in options as his mental acuity declined over the past few years. (Although my father is a widower.) (I'm now also worried about myself should this happen to me -- declining acuity can be a big threat to future financial security.) My Father's main account is with Schwab and he had a lot of cash in the default bank fund that pays 0.145% interest (or something like that). So, make sure any cash is in a Money Market if in Schwab as they don't have a decent "sweep" account. My Fathers has an IRA and Brokerage account. Because he was trading options and was a frequent trader the brokerage has minimal account balance requirements ($25K). You might need to check for that. I recently had to do an IRA distribution to keep it over $25K (an RMD, though). If in an IRA, you often need permission to trade options so look at having that removed from the account. That would probably take his agreement unless you get power of attorney, etc. I have yet to do this. My father also had an account at Interactive Brokers he had forgotten about. Look out for lost accounts. In this case, leaving it alone from 2019 to 2023 made it the best performing account. Taxes were a bit of a mess. 50+ pages in the end of year tax docs with all those option transactions in the (taxable) brokerage account. He was also only doing RMDs from the account he remembered and was under-withholding for fed taxes owed. My basic approach was find missing accounts and consolidate them (for one, that makes the RMD easier to figure out as well as taxes) then moved his cash into duration appropriate bond funds (max 5 year duration) and money market funds. Stocks were in the Interactive Brokers account which was closed and moved to Schwab and re-invested in bond funds. I left his small gold position and since he also is still interested in call options we put some in JEPI (let the pro's handle the details on options). Others include JPIE, MINT, SCHO, and SCHR. He also needed a lot of help making sure property taxes are paid on time, taxes are filed, bills paid and he is not defrauded (really, SunRun at Costco exit path, he does not need a leased solar system at age 83), etc. I've had to understand his cash flow to get an idea of how long until he runs out of money and make sure that is kept in mind for investment decisions.
GSY and MINT tend to do a little better than the risk-free rate, but not by very much. BOXX offers a box spread strategy that can defer taxes you'd otherwise pay on dividends in favor of the long-term CG rate. Ultra-short corporates and commercial paper proxies like SRLN, BKLN, JAAA, AAA, CLOA, etc. can boost your cash-like returns with very minimal risk. They've been excellent over the past couple of years.
Squeezing out 200 bps is gonna be tough. You could look at maybe long box spreads. I am able to usually get about 50 to 100 bps higher than a t-bill of similar maturity. But you may need to take on a little credit risk - maybe some short duration investment grade bond funds? Like the products from Invesco Bulletshares or Blackrock iBonds. Or maybe one of those short maturity active funds - like the PIMCO MINT product.
My Father (83) uses: JEPI JPIE MINT SCHO: Short term treasury SCHR: Intermediate treasury Money Market fund If she is 70, I'd add more equities then the above as JEPI is really the only equity exposure and has limited upside. To keep it simple, could select one of these: [https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/mutual-funds/life-strategy-funds](https://investor.vanguard.com/investment-products/mutual-funds/life-strategy-funds)
My thought is that these assets were known to be underperforming (just as hunch) so the top operators in the state didn't need to increase exposure to anything that isn't going to be inherently strategic to the existing footprint. If you look at where Trulieve is adding stores it seems to be in very strategic locations. I wish the best to all companies but I have a feeling that MINT/Shango will have a hard time competing. My understanding is that we don't know who bought the grow though, correct? Sounds like it's an MSO?
This brokerage is my playground, 8ish%. 1.2m in ICSH, MINT, SHV. I need pointed towards things to play with. The above loss was IBRX, a biotech that looked like it had cleared all the hurdles. I.E. FDA Approval, manufacturing, strong pipeline, drug with efficacy, etc. But dumped from 8 to 4 over the last several months.
No idea. What I do is just put it in Google and whoever issues it (eg Vanguard) has all that SEC stuff updated daily on the funds official homepage. So like Google fund issuer MINT and that'll tell you MINTs total return, market return, and 30 day sex yield on their official page.
you disqualified yourself from the convo. Now I'm only talkin to gramma even though she's gone now. > "Grl.... you done good. You made some great plays and went out extra MINT. Great work and never worry about what happened to it. Assume some idiot blew it on on something blue. Just focus on the fact that you won at life!!! 🎉"
Similar situation. Moving Money Market funds to Intermediate bond funds IEF, SCHR (Treasuries), MINT for future cash, JEPI for income with some appreciation. FBND if you want more yield with corporate. IEF and SHR have 6 to 7 year duration but I expect some capital gains over next two years. I also like VEMBX for emerging market bonds. I try to keep most bonds in Treasuries and use stocks for more risk/appreciation as opposed to corporate bonds (which are going to be more correlated to stocks then Treasuries).
Yeah! I bet everyone will switch to MINT!
It really doesn't matter too much. 1. If you like banks my quick recommendation is a savings broker to jump between HYSA without lots of hassles: https://www.raisin.com/en-us/?preferred_locale=en-us 2. You can use something like MINT (an ETF) which is fine for savings, very little volatility and a bit extra yield. You can go a bit further if you are willing to give back potentially the year's interest in exchange for higher yield with something like VCSH. Right now duration risk is paying nothing, but that is not the norm. That being said if you are able to put away $20k/yr for an emergency fund and plan to keep this up you'll quickly start experiencing a lot of tax drag. If the goal is to say get this to $50k and stop not a big deal. If more then are you in a higher tax bracket or likely to be in one soon? If so you may want to consider tax advantaged (high cash value permanent life). It is less valuable since you don't plan to have children but you are at an amount that it is worth it in terms of taxes.
If you want to run around and chase savings accounts for the highest yield I'd recommend a savings broker. Which banks / brokerage is most desperate for cash at any time will change. https://www.raisin.com/en-us/?preferred_locale=en-us is probably a better choice. I just use MINT for idle cash when I have it, which isn't 100% safety but very close.
> No order flow based shenanigans This one eliminates almost all the brokers out there. Interactive pro (but not Lite) does not use payment for order flow. Fidelity does not as well. Schwab does. > Modern UI Interactive has a ton of UIs. I would definitely look at their paper trade account and try the various ones and see if you like any of them. That being said Interactive (and many other brokers) offers a full API so you can use 3rd party paid UIs which are really outstanding In terms of simple UI I personally like Merrill Edge the best. In terms of best information and simple, Fidelity. In terms of UI I'd also consider Tasty. They do sell orderflow however. > Decent HYSA rates FWIW again both Interactive and Fidelity have this. I think Fidelity has the best cash management features around, though again Merrill Edge is pretty outstanding because of the partnership with BofA's products. That being said I don't think this criteria matters much. You can just use a cash like ETF (I use MINT) and get good rates regardless of brokerage.
You likely are going to need multiple institutions. Your brokerage has savings type vehicles. I used MINT (etf) for cash like savings. Wells FWIW has a brokerage. It wouldn't be my first choice but it creates a way to sweep. You can do MINT at any broker. Excluding this... Schwab is an excellent choice. Especially since their robo is so good so you can invest well without knowing much. You choose well. That's where I put family. Fidelity has terrific cash management as well. Interactive has great savings rates but I would not recommend as a first broker. Vanguard's money market funds used to be top notch. They have lowered the offerings to just very good.
You can always ask questions on the weekly Safe Haven thread without having to appease the automod bot. > On paper trading I have been successful due to my balance being high. You don't have to accept that high balance. If you are not allowed to customize your starting cash balance, there are two ways people usually reduce their balance to a more reasonable level: * Use the excess cash to buy shares of a stable equity, like MINT or BIL. That way, your portoflio gain/loss won't change very much, but your available cash to trade will be limited to what you didn't spend on the shares. * Just lose the amount you don't want to use. You can buy an expiring OTM call by bidding all your cash. However, this loss shows up on your portfolio gain/loss. > I’m only allowed to use 1% then most of the contracts I would have to buy would be out of the money. Only if you trade expensive tickers, like NFLX. Not that I'm recommending you trade penny stocks, far from it. However, when your cash is limited, you do have to be more picky about the share price of stocks you trade options on. Stick to shares with a share price between $20 and $100. There are other ways you can save money. Like you can trade $5 wide vertical spreads on just about any ticker, even expensive ones like SPY or META, and never spend more than $500 per spread, and usually closer to half that. > Today I bought one NFLX $575 puts for 0.18 expiring on 6/7. Since the time I bought this put, the stock went down roughly 5 dollars yet my put contract has lost money now trading around 0.17. Why didn’t my contract go up in value and what can I do better next time to not make this mistake. So (1) NFLX is too high a share price for you to be trading, (2) you bought a put that is too far from the money, which means the delta value is very low, (3) you bought too close to expiration, which means theta decay is a large percentage of your total premium. When you combine low delta with high theta and only a few days to expiration, your call is fighting an uphill battle to gain value.
There is absolutely not enough competition in the wireless market. Companies like MINT are not competitors, they are MVNOs, meaning they operate on the network on of the one of the big 3 carriers (Verizon, T-Mobile or AT&T). Mint operates on the T-Mobile network. They are not a competitor.
Cause there is more than enough competition in the wireless phone market. New ones are popping up all the time, like MINT mobile.
VTWNX also holds stocks so it is also designed for some capital gains. Of course, that means risk is higher. So, you should look past the yield unless you are mostly interested in income. (VTWNX was up 12% in 2023 and 10 year average return is around 6%/year). My 83 year old father uses the following for an income stream in a Schwab account (listed least to most risk): 55% SNVXX Money market currently paying 5.04% [https://www.schwabassetmanagement.com/products/snvxx](https://www.schwabassetmanagement.com/products/snvxx) 15% SCHO Schwab Short-Term US Treasury ETF currently paying 4.94% [https://www.morningstar.com/etfs/arcx/scho/quote](https://www.morningstar.com/etfs/arcx/scho/quote) 15% MINT PIMCO Enhanced Short Maturity Active ETF paying 5.34% [https://www.morningstar.com/etfs/arcx/mint/quote](https://www.morningstar.com/etfs/arcx/mint/quote) 15% JEPI JPMorgan Equity Premium Income ETF paying 6.82% [https://www.morningstar.com/etfs/arcx/jepi/quote](https://www.morningstar.com/etfs/arcx/jepi/quote) Some of the funds in SNVXX and SCHO are possibly moving to longer duration bonds (SCHR) in near future. This article has some good info on withdrawal rates for a poprtfolio in retirement: [https://www.morningstar.com/retirement/good-news-safe-withdrawal-rates](https://www.morningstar.com/retirement/good-news-safe-withdrawal-rates) See the chart in that article titled: 30-Year Starting Safe Withdrawal Rate %, by Asset Allocation From that chart, a 0% equities portfolio (all bonds) can safely withdraw 6.7% of the portfolio, per year, for 15 years. So with 220K starting, that is about $14.5K per year. You adjust the 14.5K up by inflation each year. So if inflation is 10% in year two you would be 14.5 + 1.45 = 15.95K (in year two). I use 10% inflation to make the math easy -- hopefully we never see that. But basically it is 14.5K per year keeping the same purchasing power over time. So, that is what they have to work with using 'conventional' strategies as outlined in that article where you want a 90% probability it lasts 15 years. You can also see columns for 10 years and 20 years, etc. if you want to plan for a shorter or longer life spans. Mix in some equities and you can (historically) take out more. But, bonds are doing pretty well now so equities don't add as much as you might think (at least according to that article). Back to VTWNX as an example: It is 40% stock and 60% bonds. According to the chart, for 15 year life, your starting number is 6.8% of the portfolio. Not a big jump (0.1%) over an all bond portfolio yet with more risk. A 10% equities and 90 bonds actually has a higher withdraw rate at 6.9%. (Bonds returns are pretty nice right now.)
I think I will get back into sports memorabilia. That was a lucrative racket for a while, member that? GEM MINT TEN!!! I miss that guy
As u/Squezeplay mentionend - you have to increase credit and duration risk if you want better yields. So that means that the ETF must have longer duration and credit grades. There are ultra-short duration active bond funds that you could consider - but you must understand that's not the same as a money market fund or ultra-short duration treasury fund. For cash management other than money market funds - I primarily loan via SPX box spreads but there is an ETF called BOXX if you prefer an ETF. I also use MINT and ICSH for ETF based cash management.
If you are familiar with using ETFs - there are ETFs which are effectively invested in short duration US treasuries. Look at those ETFs - for example - TBIL, SGOV, BIL, etc. There are also short duration bond ETFs that hold investment grade paper and treasuries - for example - MINT. Dividends are usually distributed monthly. And there would be the 30% tax holding. For this type of use-case - you would also enable dividend reinvestment. If you have a large account with margin - you can consider SPX box spreads - but that assumes you understand how to construct such spreads and you have adequate options experience. The advantage is that the tax treatment may be different.
First off for a long hold period I'd risk up. Over time underrisking converts the possibility of loss into the certainty of loss. I'd consider something like VCSH or MINT. You'll have 97% safety and better average return within 2 or 3 years you'll be doing better. If you can go further out but still need a lot of safety then a high draw portfolio can work. This will sound riskier than it is but something like: * 70% VCSH * 15% EM value * 15% Small cap USA value produces returns a bit more than 1% below 80/20 with a lot less volatility. There are all sort of variants of "risk parity", "butterfly"... Now assuming you do need 100% safety if you are taxable consider MYGA. That gets you tax deferral, better returns than a money market and very strong guarantees. Downside is if you need to start pulling lots of money out fast you will pay some penalties. Again the extra return, and advantage of deferral will exceed the penalties soon enough.
Yes, because it increased my buying power by 50% of the value of the MINT position.
>Or did you mean buying calls? I No I did mean buying calls - I actually want to create credit spread - You said buying power comes from marginable equity+cash - so one of such security is MINT, which other instrument can give marginable equity for spread or strangle or ICs ? It does not matter what type of security ...it can be either Tbill or SGOV or BIL - **In nutshell, we want to buy any security that can give us interest and can also be used for option buying power - (cash only will not give any interest(fixed income)**
>marginable equity from MINT So you use this marginable equity from MINT for option trading(shorting?)
Did you ask about T-bills or did you ask about BIL, which is an equity ETF? And "use for option trading" is not the right question. It's whether or not it is a marginable equity. I've gotten marginable equity from MINT, which is similar to SGOV.
I used to buy shares of MINT, but SHV and BIL are good also.
Realize it’s not automatic, but you can always park extra cash in MINT or USFR. Auto SPAXXing your cash in CSPs is wicked, tho.
It should be a simple math problem. The rate of return highest tolerable risk you/she is willing to take minus the rate of the debt you hold, if this is a positive number, invest the money; if it’s negative, pay extra on the debt. Now, you guys are sitting in a great position with a mortgage of 2.625%! You don’t even need to get into that risky of asset classes to be netting nearly an extra 2.5% on your money. As others have said, HYSA are probably the least risk however, most pay a full percentage point less than the next, baby step up in risk using CDs or T-Bills. The key for HYSA’s or CDs is to make sure you are utilizing a reputable bank as a bank failure would be about your only way to lose and even then, only if you had more than $250k total at that institution. The other thing to consider with CDs or T-Bills is that they typically require investing in $1k increments. Not necessarily a problem but, maybe not the friendliest way to invest excess income. With that said, I’d recommend looking at the next baby step up in risk which a ETFs that trade in these short-term assets. Personally, I use SGOV and MINT. SGOV focuses on short-term T-Bills and MINT focuses on short-term bonds in general, a blend of T-Bills and corporate bonds. SGOV has yielded me probably, around 5.2-5.3% since the final rate hike while MINT has yielded between 5.4-5.6%. They are ETFs which places them at risk to being subjected to market dynamics such as if the market were to be hit by flash selloffs or if the bonds they held were to suddenly lose value which is highly unlikely. Even with that said, either funds would at most, see a $1-$2 drop in share price (both ETFs sit at a share price of just about $100). The benefit with these funds is a much higher rate of return as compared to HYSAs from reputable banks while also keeping your money liquid (T+2) to get your money back in your hand with no penalty. Beyond that, show your wife the difference in yield between say 5.5% (which is very doable with relatively minimal risk) and your mortgage. Show her the maximum opportunity cost (5.5%-2.625% compounded on the max extra money she would put into paying off your house over the life of your mortgage) you two would miss out on. Let her know that investing like this actually leads you guys to being able to pay the house off much quicker because, once your ROI drops below 2.625%, you just dump all of that into the mortgage which, will pay off much more than her income would have done alone. (Disclaimer: This isn’t financial advice, I’m just a random redditor letting you know how I approach a similar situation)
$MINT gives you a risk free 5% as well
Alot of people will tell you to pick value stocks to balance out the growth. However, from looking at value stocks during big market wide crashes ( 2008 & 2022 ), value took big -30% hits when tech was taking -60-70% hits. My picks now for defense/hedging are in “Anti-Market” ETFs, short term US treasuries/debt securities, stable currencies, HYSA’s, and Gold: BTAL, SHY, MINT, FXF, UUP, & GLD. These performed significantly better than Value stocks - Check the stats yourself on Yahoo Finance etc. to fact check me.
MET $73c are going to fucking PRINT AND MINT
My guess is they were intentionally slow rolling their financials until they could get a cash infusion with the sale of their AZ stores to MINT. Maybe now that the sale closed they will release their financials shortly. I’m still anticipating that their financials will be terrible.
BKLN is floating rate high yield debt. It is extremely exposed to credit markets and negligibly exposed to government rates because of the floating rates (income is variable due to Treasury curve shifts, but price is variable almost exclusively due to credit spreads). It is not "very safe." Funds that I generally like are VNLA, FLOT, MINT, and JAAA. JAAA is the riskiest of the group and comes with the highest yield, but it should still be safer than BKLN because it is made up of AAA CLO tranches instead of the underlying bank loans.
Fidelity SPAXX 4.99% (7 day yield). [https://fundresearch.fidelity.com/mutual-funds/summary/31617H102](https://fundresearch.fidelity.com/mutual-funds/summary/31617H102) Fidelity FDRXX 5.0% (7 day yield) [https://fundresearch.fidelity.com/mutual-funds/summary/316067107](https://fundresearch.fidelity.com/mutual-funds/summary/316067107) I would expect those yields to start to drop over the next 6 months (but with higher for longer, you never know). I also like MINT 5.5% (short term corporate). More risk, but not a lot of risk. https://www.pimco.com/en-us/investments/etf/enhanced-short-maturity-active-exchange-traded-fund
They sold Vegas stores with Arizona: MedMen Enters into Definitive Agreements to Exit Arizona and Nevada per Announced Strategic Review, Selling Non-Core Assets to MINT Cannabis Press Release | 12/20/2023 https://www.businesswire.com/news/home/20231220173504/en/MedMen-Enters-into-Definitive-Agreements-to-Exit-Arizona-and-Nevada-per-Announced-Strategic-Review-Selling-Non-Core-Assets-to-MINT-Cannabis
Since you have a short time-frame and low risk, the safest types of investment are short duration fixed income investments. This would include things like treasuries, brokered CDs, and investment grade bonds that mature in 1 year or less. Because interest rates are still high, the simplest would be a money market fund. You can also invest in t-bills that mature next year. If you don't access to brokered CDs and treasuries from your broker, you can use ETFs as a fixed income proxy. There are ETFs that comprise short duration treasuries such as SGOV, BIL, etc. If you want slightly longer duration with commercial paper which can offer better yield, there are ETFs like MINT. Because you have a December need, you could also explore target maturity bond ETFs. These ETFs mature like a bond and liquidate usually in December. Blackrock and Invesco offer these fixed income products - and they have variants for treasuries, TIPs, corporate grade bonds, and even high-yield junk bonds. A target maturity bond ETF could be convenient if you are contributing on a regular basis and reinvesting dividends until maturity.
MINT is 5.60% JPST is 5.62% NEAR is 5.57% Don't know what you're talking about.
>MINT is 4.57% Where did you get that? Commercial paper can have higher yield than money market funds. And prime money market funds hold ultra short duration commercial paper to boost their yield. As of 11/29 - the estimated ytm for MINT is 6.07% with a 30day SEC yield of 5.6%. The difference in a fund like MINT vs a money market fund is that MINT holds primarily commercial paper instead of govt obligations and has a longer duration and effective maturity.
MINT is 4.57% JPST is 4.41% NEAR is 4.06% None of those yield better than a money market at 5%
Commercial paper - NEAR, JPST, MINT
I use MINT for my brokerage cash option. In a hard bond selloff it could drop like 2%. So not only do I like the option I use it myself. But I should mention that sell everything when you get worried and buy back in later is generally a terrible idea. By and large investors who do this, and do buy in reduce their returns by 2% annually over buy and hold vs. the same asset allocation they held on average. And that allocation tends to be lower returning cashish allocation than is appropriate. You get paid to take risk for someone who doesn't want risk.
If you're looking for low risk with 5% to 10% returns, here's how I keep my money safe after a lot of learning the hard way: \- Short-term - cash sweep = 5% interest (>6 months) - pays monthly \- Medium-term - MINT = short term bonds (>9-12 months) - pays monthly \- Long-term - diversified ETFs (SPY) and maybe 15% in MINT (>1yr+) - these pay dividends monthly too although its like $4 per thousand give or take. My "low vol, high dividend" ETF hasn't done well this year. I'm not sure dividend stocks are the best place to be right now. I saw your dividend comment. You might consider buying a big chunk of SPY (100 x $430 = $43,000) and selling short term options against them. Just make sure to sell calls at a higher strike price than your cost. That way if you end up getting your option exercised, you've made some money. If that's too rich for your blood you can always sell options against your stock holdings, as long as you have 100 or more of them. If you sell monthlies you get paid monthly as long as the stock doesn't go up as far as your option strike price. For several years now I've kept a little chunk of money to the side to invest in individual stocks. I've learned through that account that there's no "get rich quick" trade, unless you've got an edge or a long term thesis that you truly believe in that ends up working.
I don't think anyone trading options would have truly "Cash secured" puts... I mean, most likely the trader would have a collection of stocks / ETFS / money markets / purchased calls or puts and sell puts on margin, if shares are assigned or cover a loss he then sells to cover. I keep money in Berkshire, SGOV and MINT and sell weeklies. Every Friday I close positions and reopen (roll but I prefer close and then reopen).
>MINT This is the first time hearing this keyword, please elaborate if possible.
I use MINT as a cash alternative for say 1 - 18 mo money.
I have an IBKR account with margin and a balance of about $20,000. I hate IBKR and only use it to short stock because RH doesn't let me short. I also have an old vanguard account with margin, IDK why you mention 250k. The only way I see the overleverage scenario is of MINT drops at which case I would get an email asking me to deposit more money. ​ I need to use MINT because it is the safest ETF I can use to keep a balance (and keep the margin). I will give this a shot and hopefully in two years I remember to update this post... I strongly believe it will work.
you wouldnt even get portfolio margin. minimum is 250k read up about PM and you'll see why it's easy to overleverage also i'm not sure what your obsession with MINT is. just buy t-bills, higher yields and safer
Could you please tell me how I would overleverage? lets say I open and fund a tastytrade account with 20,000, apply for margin and buy MINT, then I sell a SPX 12/2025 far ITM put and buy a 12/2025 ATM put. At expiration I would just sell MINT and cover whatever money is left between the price of SPX at the time and the strike of the put I sold... If SPX appreciates in 2.5 years then I need to pay less my risk is only the cost of the put I bought (the "interest") correct? what else is at risk? what other risks do you forsee?
Worst case scenario would be $4000 and pay the full $16,000. But MINT would still yield some interest of about $1,800 so I would say $2,200 plus paying the full $16,000… and obviously I would have the car
Of course I haven’t thought about everything. That is why I am asking here. Why 16%? I am paying about $4000 of interest in 2.5 years (option expires on Dec 2025, I would be paying $1600 per year which is 10% of 16000…. Also, MINT would give me about 4% per year. If QQQ doesn’t go up any the rate is about 6% then. Now imagine that QQQ goes to 400 or 450? If it is 450 I would have to pay only 13000 at the end…. It looks to me a pretty good idea… but I am checking with you guys just to make sure I am not missing anything
Why not? You deposit 20k into an account, with that money you buy 200 shares of MINT. Then you sell the 580 (20,000 credit) put and buy the 380 (3,600 debit), you receive 16400 credit because you had to pay 3,600 for the 380 put. SPX is a great idea, no risk of early assignment. I would need to open a tasty trade account but maybe it is time… Robinhood has met almost all my needs until now but I see how I need to get a better broker.
Is your math even right? You can't buy $20k of MINT because you will be -$20k +$16.7k leaving you with a negative balance. You could just do the put spread giving you $16.7k to play with but the max loss will be $20k. If max loss occurs, your interest rate will be 7.5% ($20k/$16.7k)^(1/2.5 years). If you really want to borrow cheap, you should only do box spread on SPX using European type options.
I thought about that. My fear is early assigments which has never happened to me in the past with QQQ or SPY but if it happens it is as easy as sell MINT and cover... I also thought about a combination of MINT and SJNK but that is a bit more risk...even TLT and sell 80 delta weeklies puts for a tiny bit of income. So many things that can be done instead of just paying cash.... I love options... it is like an art don't you think?
First, early exercise isn't really a risk, it wouldn't hurt your P&L. I think there are better trades than your position in QQQ, but I like that you're long vol instead of short vol, which would be a sign of an often-fallacious income-generation mindset. I let credit card debt trickle up while in the market earlier this year, but as of this weekend I'm >50% cash. Why not buy 2-year treasuries yourself instead of MINT?
Milli Bank: 5.25%, Customer's Bank 5.20%, Optimum 5.17%... The ETF I use for short term savings is MINT: 5.43%. Really depends on which you like better.
The moment I saw COVID make it's first jump out of China and seeing how it was spreading, I unloaded my entire portfolio. I bought it all back 2 months later a made a MINT. There was definitely an advanced notice while we all waited to see if this would be contained (like other infectious diseases had been) or if it was going to really spread.
> i was wondering there is an ETF or something that like where i could put excess cash in daily that i could withdraw immediately if needed. By definition, there is no such thing. ETF shares have 1 day settlement. So you can get cash out of settled shares the *next* day, but not "immediately". FWIW, people have used BIL, SHV, SHY and MINT for this purpose, but without the "immediate cash out" part. > if i put it in something like SGOV would i get any payout if it was in there for just a day or two or would i have to hold through the ex-div date You don't have to wait. The shares appreciate daily to account for accumulating interest, then the shares reset in value, just like any share that pays distributions. You can see this in the price chart. It looks like the distributions are monthly, so you get a sawtooth pattern with a drop every month.
I have QQQ and SPY. They're intended for long-term growth rather than income. I know it's a different asset sub-class I'll call it (long-term assets vs short-term assets) than MINT but where they differ is how they get taxed. From my research, HYA accounts get taxed based on your income bracket which could be higher or lower than the fixed long-term capital gains tax rate of 15%. In my case, I would get taxed 22% on my income and the HYS as well.
Income ETFs (like MINT which I use) are the same tax rate as HYSA. Stock ETFs or stocks is long term capital gains if you hold more than a year, but that's risk capital not merely saving.
If PSA could grade this bullflag on apple it would be PSA GEM MINT 10 
>MCCARTHY SAYS HE'S DEBATING BETWEEN HAVING A VENTI CHAI LATTE AND A GRANDE HONEY CITRUS MINT TEA. SAYS TOUGH DECISIONS NEED TO BE MADE AND HE WILL LIKELY DECIDE BEFORE JUNE 1. ^First ^Squawk ^[@FirstSquawk](http://twitter.com/FirstSquawk) ^at ^2023-05-24 ^09:20:51 ^EDT-0400