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What is a good tax cost ratio for a taxable account?
[News] A January "rout" in megacap tech stocks this month is now the Wall Street consensus, according to the BofA equity team.
[NEWS] A January "rout" in megacap tech stocks this month is now the Wall Street consensus, according to the BofA equity team.
Your Opinion: Capital Gains Avoidance (Low Income Year) + ROVR Blackstone Deal
What would be the most tax efficient way distributing my savings?
What would be the most tax efficient way distributing my savings?
What would be the most tax efficient way distributing my savings?
Is iShares Core S&P 500 ETF (IVV) a good Stock to buy?
Stick to U.S. stocks that offer experience over hope
Morgan Stanley bear Wilson sees a 2019-like rally this year
BlackRock to Expand Proxy Voting Choice to Its Largest ETF
Is my proposed portfolio more complex than it needs to be?
Same ETFs, does it matter regarding performance and fees?
Improving Stock Market Portfolio Allocation (50% IVV, 50% IWF)
How are your deposits and investments protected if your bank bankrupts?
How are your deposits and investments protected if your bank bankrupts?
Equal weight S&P 500 ETF has outperformed SPY, VOO, and IVV over the past 20 years
Sometimes its good not to miss the WAVE
Hey, I’m 69 and looking into asset allocation for my long term buy and hold portfolio.
Why are NASDAQ-100 index funds expensive compared to SP500 index funds or total market funds?
i primarily buy ETF but would like to add stocks to my portfolio
What are your cost averages for your top 3-5 stocks/etfs for the next decade?
Best ETF to invest as an European citizen via Interactive Brokers?
what are US rules on selling and then re-buying ETF shortly afterward?
Any reason to not sell off some of my winning individual stocks to dump money into a S&P 500 ETF?
Why is "does technical analysis/quantitive analysis beat buy and hold" a question surrounded in a ton of opinion instead of facts?
Difference in sector allocations in SPY/VOO/IVV
any free downloadable historical data source?
On risk tolerance. Some people may never invest in stocks again.
Rate My Portfolio (I'm a newb, don't be mean pls)
What's a semi-accurate best guess on what parties are responsible (and at what % of volume) for the roughly 1-2b shares of SPY traded monthly on average?
Success with Online Published Resource advice
Why Am I Not Receiving Dividend Yields?
0% Expense Ratio Mutual Funds Vs Indexed ETFs
U.S. Weekly FundFlows Insight Report: SPY sees strong demand, while Small-Cap/Tech experiences outflows
It's way better to buy at market close than at market open, most gains happen overnight for major ETFs
How to find similar index funds to consolidate in my account?
1st-time investor - need help
All my money is in IVV (S&P500). I would like to get into IVH (MidCap US) and IVR (SmallCap US) is it a good time?
All my money is in IVV (S&P500). I would like to get into IVH (MidCap US) and IVR(SmallCap US) is it a good time?
What are Some Key Things To Look for When Doing DD?
Helpful guide on researching & analyzing stocks [Things to consider looking at]
Helpful guide on researching, analyzing & performing DD on stocks [15 things to consider looking at]
Helpful guide on researching, analyzing & performing DD on stocks [15 things to consider looking at]
apes in order to find how far amc rocket can fly we gotta know how much gas we can fill it with these are citadel long stocks when amc gets that margin called these are the stocks that will be liquidized their top stock IVV position is worth 1.26 BILLION how far can we fly? comment yalls targets
HELPFUL GUIDE on researching, analyzing & performing DD [due diligence] on stocks [15 things to consider looking at]
How would a Citadel forced Liquidation to cover impact their largest holdings? Eg Would their 1% position in IVV or SQQ have any impact on the funds price?
Mentions
VOO and SPY are the same thing so just VOO. QQQ is "inside" of SPY thus inside of VOO so don't do that either. IVV is just SPY therefore just VOO so don't do that either. Actually, just go back to the drawing board and try again.
=STOCKHISTORY("IVV", Settings!$D$2-7, Settings!$D$2) This returns a table of the closing prices of IVV between the dates in cells Settings!$D$2-7 and Settings!$D$2. Output is two columns and looks roughly like this: Date Close 10/23/2025 $ 674.97 10/24/2025 $ 680.52 10/27/2025 $ 688.60 10/28/2025 $ 690.34 10/29/2025 $ 690.71 10/30/2025 $ 683.23 I use =LOOKUP(Settings!$D$2+1, STOCKHISTORY(B2, Settings!$D$2-7, Settings!$D$2+1)) Cell B2 contains the stock ticker (like IVV). Settings!$D$2-7 and Settings!$D$2+1 give the last week or so of closing prices available. The LOOKUP function pulls just the numerical close price out of the table so that cell has only the last price. So for IVV in cell B2 the output is just $683.23. And =IFERROR(AVERAGE(STOCKHISTORY(B2, EDATE(Settings!$D$2, -9), Settings!$D$2, 0, 0, 1)), "Invalid Ticker or No Data") returns the 9-month moving average for the ticker in cell B2 with the 9-month lookback period starting with the date in Settings!$D$2, -9. For IVV the output shows 612.209.
=STOCKHISTORY("IVV", Settings!$D$2-7, Settings!$D$2) This returns a table of the closing prices of IVV between the dates in cells Settings!$D$2-7 and Settings!$D$2. Output looks like this: || || |Date|Close| |10/23/2025| $ 674.97| |10/24/2025| $ 680.52| |10/27/2025| $ 688.60| |10/28/2025| $ 690.34| |10/29/2025| $ 690.71| |10/30/2025| $ 683.23| I use =LOOKUP(Settings!$D$2+1, STOCKHISTORY(B2, Settings!$D$2-7, Settings!$D$2+1)) Cell B2 contains the stock ticker (like IVV). Settings!$D$2-7 and Settings!$D$2+1 give the last week or so of closing prices available. The LOOKUP function pulls just the numerical close price out of the table so that cell has only the last price. So for IVV in cell B2 the output is just $683.23. And =IFERROR(AVERAGE(STOCKHISTORY(B2, EDATE(Settings!$D$2, -9), Settings!$D$2, 0, 0, 1)), "Invalid Ticker or No Data") returns the 9-month moving average for the ticker in cell B2 with the 9-month lookback period starting with the date in Settings!$D$2, -9. For IVV the output shows 612.209.
If you don't mind capping your upside, consider buying a deep ITM covered call. Using IVV as an example, you can buy a covered call expiring in 14 months at a $335 strike for about $322. You would earn about $9 in dividends over the coming year as qualified dividends. So $13 in profit, $9 in dividends would be just under a 7% rate of return. And, you would have about 50% downside protection from a stock market drop. If the market crashed in the next year you would own IVV at half its value and your capital would still be preserved. The only challenge that you have to manage is the dividend distributions. If the upcoming dividend is larger than the remaining intrinsic call value remaining then your shares will be called away before you get the dividend. This is easily managed by rolling the call value out further in time.
People keep talking about perpetual bubbles and the market being irrational and all but... Is this just normal and expected given the rise of passive index investing? IVV and VOO and the like are some of the biggest funds now. And because of it, normal market mechanics like "price discovery" aren't as impactful as they used to be because so many people "buy the whole index" no matter what. Sure, there might be big short term movements like on Liberation Day.or during COVID, but both were relatively short and neither were catastrophic. Extended duration down markets might not be feasible anymore. What I'm saying is Bears might be going extinct. Jack Bogle killed them.
Given your limited time and long runway, I’d simplify by capping any single stock to <5% and gradually moving those into broad, low-cost funds (either a target-date fund in the plan or a 2–3 ETF core: total US, total international, and bonds), cut overlap (IVV/VOO, QQQ/QQQM), watch the heavy tech/SMH tilt, and set auto-rebalancing; you can find more info at mr-profit com.
People own stocks as part of a portfolio right? So what’s the difference between $100K in IVV/QQQ and $100K spread around as you choose w $6K in PLTR? Voting rights.
Got it. So if it’s in a fund you’re absolved of responsibility? You know that the SPY500 is the 6th largest institutional holder of PLTR holding 27M shares right? You’re ok being complicit in little bites (say unknowingly) but it’s wrong if you do it willfully? But let’s say now you know - are you going to get out? It’s even heavier in VTSAX, QQQ, IVV, etc. Broad market funds are trying to make $$ we’re just our own fund managers. Anyone claiming any moral high ground is either A. Correct or B. Not making anything. It’s just too muddy.
Congrats! You have 500k to park in VTI/VOO/IVV and chill. You also have free tax on gains for life or 3MM, whichever is the lesser. Enjoy!
Many investors have started to rotate out of large cap funds and into small and mid cap funds, because the large caps have gotten so highly valued. Also, the prospect of lower interest rates is brightening the outlook for smaller companies that rely more on debt financing than equity financing. FMDE is a solid mid cap fund. I recently bought its small cap sister fund, FESM. I like that these funds are actively managed, not just tracking an index, because I think you need to be choosy when investing in smaller companies. IVV and SPY track the S&P 500, which is an index of large cap stocks. So many people buy shares in those stocks that their share prices have gotten expensive relative to the companies' profitability and growth. Many investors are broadening their portfolios to smaller companies and non-US stocks.
\> What’s appealing about FMDE vs IVV or SPY? It's a different group of stocks, midcaps versus large caps. If the advisor thinks midcaps will outperform going forward, that is their job, to decide stuff for you. However, while picking midcaps for some of your holdings is a reasonable idea, you could ask why FMDE versus FRTY. FRTY has done +27% the past year to FMDE's +9%. XMMO is another option.
# Portfolio Considerations[](http://localhost:8501/chat#portfolio-considerations) **Given your concern about position count, consider consolidating around your highest-conviction ideas.** $RIG (offshore drilling) faces structural headwinds from energy transition policies and volatile oil prices—this position appears speculative rather than strategic. **Selling $RIG could fund additional $IVV accumulation**, restoring your core allocation while maintaining exposure to energy through the S&P 500's diversified holdings. **Your planned $XPEL position deserves scrutiny before initiation.** At a P/E near 37 and P/S around 5.8, you're paying a significant premium for a company with 11% net margins in a specialized but competitive automotive aftermarket. While $XPEL demonstrates strong fundamentals (ROE of 21%, minimal debt), the valuation leaves little room for execution missteps. Consider whether this capital might better serve you in $FOA or $ABL—existing positions where you've already done the diligence. **Rebuilding $IVV should be your priority.** Your admission of feeling "bad" about the sale signals psychological discomfort with your current risk profile. Dollar-cost averaging back into the S&P 500 over 60-90 days provides downside protection while maintaining exposure to any year-end rally. \- Open Fieldbook Intelligence Team
Buy S&P 500 ETFs and forget about them. Seriously at least half of your money should go there and \~$7k (max it out) going into a Roth IRA, if you don't have one, open one now. Don't chase the high you will not achieve this again, keep gambling to 15% of your position at most. Uranium ETFs probably aren't going to pay as well/consistently as IVV, VOO, SPY so you should limit your position. Keep stacking, don't rush, don't get greedy or overconfident.
In 15 years. That's just barely higher than high yield savings. Still a pretty bad ETF. Over that same time period, SPY, VTI, VT, IVV, & QQQ have significantly outperformed VXUS.
"S&P 500" isn't a stock; it's a collection of 500 different companies. Rather than you investing in each of them individually, there are companies out there that bundle them together for you. SPY, VOO, IVV, FXAIX, etc all track that index of companies. There are also variations on the theme, but SPMO and SPYI are not tracking the index itself.
I don't know what an "equity curve" is, but you can reduce volatility to almost nothing by combining a broad ETF like IVV with a t-bill fund - try 10% IVV and 90% t-bills. Its long-term CAGR will be more than 1%.
Hold and $695 IVV call(Highly Unlikely.)
Chat disagrees Short answer: the S&P 500 has outperformed the rest of the world over the last 5 years. • S&P 500 (IVV) 5-yr average annual total return: ~16.6% (USD, dividends reinvested, to Aug 31, 2025).  • Rest of world (ACWI ex-U.S., ACWX) 5-yr average annual total return: ~10.1% (USD, dividends reinvested, to Aug 31, 2025).  • Cumulatively, that’s roughly ~111% for the S&P 500 vs ~62% for ACWI ex-U.S. over 5 years. 
I'm a few years older than you. Started saving for retirement around 42. I'll start by saying anything you put away is better than nothing, and it doesn't have to be complicated. I would suggest reading, ***"The Psychology of Money"***, by Morgan Housel. Not an investing book perse, but a good primer on how to be a rational investor. I believe you should absolutely start with an IRA. Whether you go Traditional or Roth would depend entirely on your marginal tax rate. You can open an IRA account with Schwab, Fidelity, etc fairly quickly. As of 2025, you can contribute up to $7,000 per year. **Important** - self managing an IRA is pretty simple, but you have to transfer the money into the account and *invest the money*. You may wish to explore a a Self-Employed 401K plan too. However, the IRA is the simplest starting point, in my opinion. Low-cost, broad index funds/ETFs have been demonstrated over time to be the easiest way to invest. This involves buying funds that track things like the S&P 500, the total US market, international markets, etc. Examples of tickers for the S&P 500 are VOO, IVV, or SWPPX. I would suggest reading, ***"The Little Book of Common Sense Investing"***, by John Bogle. Whole Life Insurance is not a way I would personally go. High cost/fees. Traditionally, lower returns on investment. Really more suitable for very high income earners, in my opinion. Cryptocurrency is not a way I would go personally with retirement savings. Extremely speculative. Highly volatile. Difficult to understand. Basically, how many people do you know who gamble at casinos and get rich? That is investing in crypto for novice investors. You do need to get some idea of how much money you *need* in retirement, then how much money you *want* in retirement. You can set up a log in with the SSA to find out what your estimated Social Security benefits would be at retirement. There are calculators online that will help you estimate your needs. I personally like this one: [Financial Mentor - Retirement Calc](https://www.financialmentor.com/calculator/best-retirement-calculator). Fair warning, it can be a little titchy on a smart phone browser.
My understanding is that the S&P500 is denominated in dollars, while IVVB11 is in reais (BRL). IVVB11 specifically buys and holds IVV Blackrock's equivalent of VOO in the NYSE). This means that IVVB11 will follow the S&P500's movements, but also follow the changes in the dollar-BRL exchange rate. In this case, the S&P500 climbed 14.5% YTD, but the dollar also fell in value by close to that amount (vs the BRL) at the same time. So the end result of those opposing effects is that IVVB11 is near 0% YTD in BRL.
I posted this previously [Imgur: The magic of the Internet](https://imgur.com/a/UaPMVAo) Only changes since then are I got small positions in JXN, ROOT, RIG, and DLO and bought more FOA, CAAP, HTLD. Also sold a bunch of my IVV (S&P 500) which I feel bad about but gambling on more short term gains on more exciting stocks. May be starting a position in XPEL soon, stocks I am open to buying more of are FOA, ABL, CAAP, DLO, HTLD and ROOT, and I want to build back up my IVV.
More annoying they won’t offer more options for ETFs in retirement and automated investing accounts. No VOO, no IVV, limited factor options, basically no momentum ETFs etc… extremely limited.
Someone doublecheck this for me: 1. Monthly and quarterly options contracts expire today. https://www.investopedia.com/terms/t/triplewitchinghour.asp https://cdn.cboe.com/resources/options/Cboe2025OPTIONSCalendar.pdf 2. Robinhood and AppLovin will be in the S&P 500 before trading starts on Monday. https://www.investopedia.com/robinhood-applovin-and-emcor-stocks-trade-higher-on-news-of-s-and-p-500-inclusion-11805185 3. Vanguard, BlackRock, and StateStreet need to make massive institutional purchases of HOOD and APP for VOO, IVV, and SPY after options contracts expire this afternoon, regardless of price.
RSP is the simplest equal weighted ETF, it would have much less of ther tech stocks compared to the IVV or such.
>but others say "Holding too much of your portfolio in one investment, even a diversified one, can leave you overexposed to risk. This does not really make sense , most target date funds do not hold "One investment" they hold usually some mix of USA stocks , foreign stocks , bonds This is not "One investment" it may be one mutual fund but it holds all sorts of different investments Its perfectly fine to invest in one fund as long as the fund is diversified like a target date fund is. Fore example take two portfolios 1 . VT 2. Split between VTI , VOO, QQQ, SCHG, SCHD , SPLG, IVV, VYM what one is more diversified , 1 2. holds a bunch of overlapping funds that concentrate on USA large cap stocks, just holding a bunch of funds is not diversification , you have to look at what the underlying funds hold VT is a world index fund that holds almost every public company on earth, 2 is a bunch of funds that only hold USA companies and concentrated on large cap companies. 2 is actually less diversified despite holding a bunch of funds
When I started investing in the late 90's I made some poor choices as well. Fortunately I didn't have much money to lose. Started working and did pretty well in the early 2000's till the 2009 crash where my portfolio crashed as well and was down 60-70%. I think the market hit its low in March 2009. I was working ridiculous hours and wasn't devoting enough time to research the individual stocks that I was investing in. Had an "Oh shit!" moment and buckled down. Found some winners in the dustpan and brought my portfolio back to its high within a few months (there was definitely some luck involved there). I was still working 80+ hours a week and set a bunch of stop losses because the market was still frothy and I was scared something was going to happen and I wouldn't be able to attend to it. Then the flash crash in 2010 hurt me again. Everything in my portfolio sold when I was at work and I was instantly 10-15% down. I realized I didn't have the time nor energy to work and play stock picker and watcher and I was a bit disgruntled. I also had some other non stock investments go south during that time as well. I picked a few stocks- Starbucks, Apple, and Bank of America and some IVV S&P500 etf with what was left in my portfolio, but also left a whole bunch of cash on the table. I just let cash grow at some low percentage rate and slaved away at work. I was a bad and apathetic investor at that point. I basically avoided my trading platforms for a few years. Luckily I had picked an S&P 500 etf and APL. Around 2013-14 I started investing that cash back into the S&P. I realized trying to hit a home run with every stock pick was foolish. I hadn't heard of John Bogle at that time, but realized for myself that S&P ETFs were a great resource for the self-investor and they didn't have the fees of mutual funds. I put maybe 10% into a few tech companies and haven't looked back. Now I have a core of 70% S&P ETF and 30% individual stocks. I now have a lot more time for stock and investing research. The internet is such a great resource to meet other like minded people and discuss experiences, thoughts and issues around investing. It doesn't hurt that the market keeps chugging along. I try to invest with purpose and not emotion. It's hard to do, but I make much better decisions if I have a plan.
IVV. S&P 500 ETF low risk average 10% return. QQQ higher risk. Individual stocks - pick your poison. What might still be doing well in 5 years and will like have a great return without changing your position - maybe GOOGL or AMZN. If you think AI train will still be chugging along TSM, AVGO, maybe NVDA.
I’m planning on buying SPTM, IDEV and FRDM for my IRA, but the market hasn’t dropped enough to buy much. My only substantial funds are IVV and CSXAX in taxable accounts. SPTM: S&P 1500. IDEV: Developed Markets ex USA. FRDM: Emerging markets ex China-like countries. IVV: S&P 500. CSXAX: S&P 500 ESG.
Buy FTEC and IVV Hedge? GLD
\> In my ideal world the US taxcode would allow ETFs to issue zero dividends and just reinvest any dividends I haven't really looked into it (buying and selling VOO for SPY for IVV before ex-div days?), but this ETF launched yesterday: [https://lionsharesetf.com/tot](https://lionsharesetf.com/tot) "The LionShares U.S. Equity Total Return ETF seeks to track the total return of the broad U.S. equity market. The fund is actively managed and aims to pay no dividends." "Where TOT looks to stand out from the competition is through the fund’s approach to dividends and taxes.... TOT’s portfolio philosophy focuses on not paying dividends in order to minimize overall tax drag. By doing so, the fund can mitigate the long-term tax impact that investors often see from dividend-paying equity strategies. "
They can do it, but the entire value of the S&P stocks in the US is way more than any one company can afford to buy, so no one company could buy enough to make a big difference. Even Bershire only has about 300 Billion in "cash" equivalents available, that would not even buy 1% of the entire S&P. Even IVV (one of many S & P 500 ETfs) contains over 600 Billion in assets. So companies can and some do buy stocks as part of their assets, but most only buy small amounts of ETFs, as they are harder to manage than indivual stocks (voting rights, taxes, etc).
Take 80% of whatever your discretionary and throw it into something like VOO, IVV, SPY... Take the rest and bet it on black.
Yeah, I totally agree in general. BRK just doesn’t look fair for the specific constraints, where you can’t have things like IVV.
Doesn’t it get ownership every-time in DCA into IVV?
Yr looking for what’s called an ESG screen ETF. Besides weapons, “ESG” will include no to low fossil fuels, tobacco, and likely nuclear activity too. SPDR has a version called EFIV which is a total ESG screened version of their S&P 500 ETFs (their SPLG having a 0.02% er), .. along with iShares XVV which is an ESG version (at 0.08% er) of their IVV S&P 500 etf at 0.03% er. What remain tends to have more tech, healthcare, etc..
Lol. Again. Diversifying is for safety and prudence. As an advisor I can tell you: we diversify to cover our asses. When a client wants to sue us for mismanaging their money, we will tell the judge: we used modern portfolio theory to cover our bases and have diversified portfolio with exposure to large mid small international bonds yada yada yada. Tried and true investing strategies and portfolio management techniques. Rebalancing on XYZ schedule, and here are the timestamps proving we did exactly what was promised. Does any of that sound like it will make you more money? Because it sounds like added effort and cost to me. It is for stability and predictability. The reality is you could achieve all of this with VOO and chill. Buy weekly. Tax loss harvest with the ITOT IVV SPLG, emergency cash with SGOV. It would just be indefensible in court for not being diversified enough. And clients won’t have the stones in a downturn to not panic sell as the sheer quantity gets huge.
Oh dear...!!! **From Google Finance: Expense ratio 1.14%, Front load 5.75%, YTD return 7.35%, 5 yr returns 11.88%, Yield 2.46%** They took a big chunk of your money from the beginning with that Front load fee, then the high ER, and low yields created low returns over a 5 year period vs. 85-90% for the S&P 500 Index fund such as: SPLG, IVV, VOO. I would sell your Russell fund so it's cash in the account, then I would open the Fidelity Roth IRA account and work with Fidelity reps to have them get Russell to xfer the cash over to the new Fidelity Roth. Then invest in a basic broad based ETF like: SPLG, SPYG, IVV, VOO, SCHG, VUG, VOOG, VONG, etc...or VTI for all US total market. Good Luck........;+)
Keep cash in a HYSA to cover 6-12 months of expense, then invest what you can inside a Roth IRA for growth. Most can add $7k per year to $8k for those 50 and over. Growth ETFs: SPLG, SPYG, IVV, TCHP, VUG, VOOG, VONG, SCHG, (VOO for Boogleheads).
Correct. And you can repeat with ETFs. There’s only one AMZN that any investor can buy. But there’s VOO, SPY, IVV. Hell, Invesco offers QQQ and QQQM identical funds where the only difference is liquidity and 5 basis points between expense ratios
They are officially partnered with Blackrock, which has many ETFs. IVV is identical to VOO but there's no particular reason to prefer it.
Geez, I keep hearing peeps complaining about not being able to buy fractional shares on Schwab. so why not just use another brokerage? It's so easy to setup and you can request of your assets "In Kind' to be transferred to the new account. SWPPX is fine, FXAIX. You want something more aggressive, you'll need to look at a large cap growth fund. There's actually more ETF options than mutual funds I think. SPLG, IVV, VOO, SPY, SPYG, SCHG, TCHP to name a few large cap growth. VOT for mid cap growth, etc.
if you're younger under 50, invest in an ETF such as SPLG, IVV or SPYG, VONG for growth. 12%-15% annualized over the long term.
In 5-6 years, if you have an Index fund like SPLG, IVV, VOO, you'll double your money. Keep plugging a way and put money in it. 5-10 is mid-long term. Short term would be a year or less.
I actually wouldn't use either, as I personally believe better exists in the form of US total market style funds (which of be sure to pair with international as well). Sticking with S&P 500 though: for long term buy and hold, yes, VOO or IVV are better than SPY (lower expense ratio mostly). For now hands on or advanced stuff, SPY would be better.
What are your goals? Short, medium, or long term investing? If you are employed and have earned income, you can open a Roth IRA account and contribute the maximum amount to it and invest in SYPG, SCHG, or TCHP for growth. Then also open a general brokerage account and invest in SPLG or IVV that tracks the S&P 500. This last two payout a small amount of dividends. You may also want to save 3-6 months of cash in a HYSA for emergencies. Good luck.
Is this for your retirement, then open a Roth IRA and invest in an ETF like SPYG or SCHG for growth, 70-80%, or S&P 500 Index fund like SPLG or IVV which pay 1.2% yield. At 37 dividends aren't going to help unless it pays out 7-12% yields. Go crazy with some spec stocks like (BULL, NBIS, PLTR, RKLB, PONY, RZLV, HIMS), all related to Fintech, AI, Aerospace, and Healthcare. Good Luck.
In terms of where to put money, I agree with others that you should start with index funds, generally ones that track the S&P 500 (e.g. VOO or IVV). If you don't mind some swinging but still want the relative safety of a broad index fund, you could put some in QQQ, which tracks the Nasdaq (more tech heavy, generally faster gains but MUCH more ups and downs).In terms of how MUCH money to put in, no one can answer that without knowing how much you have saved, but in general, I'd suggest a relatively large purchase of a broad index fund to create a base of growth, and then just add regularly. Like, say you had $50k saved up. You might buy $10k of VOO, and then do $1k a month (or $500, or $2k, this depends more on how much money you have coming in than how much you have saved). You want to keep enough back that you are safe if a catastrophe struck - a lot of people recommend building up enough savings to keep yourself afloat for 6 months before you start putting money into the stock market. Even in terms of the money you end up intending to put to work, it's good to hold some back in case there's a major pullback in prices. If something happens and the market drops 15-20%, you'll be glad you have $X held back to pick things up on the cheap. So, lump sum up front, steady additions over time, keep some in your back pocket so you have the means to strike when there's a sharp downturn.
XSP option pricing (midpoints) I'm surprised by how the options that are further out for the same strike (say 680) have a higher price per period (month/day). I would have expected the opposite, I also found this to be true on IVV options. Am I missing something? On a stock or even another index ETF (VUG), the opposite is true. The further out you go, for the same strike, you get less per period.
>100@ FXAIX 15 @ FSSNX 10 @ FSPSX Its fine. Also holding overlapping funds is not bad , as long as you realize they are overlapping. Some people think diversifying is just holding lots of funds so they sort of just start buying random tickers thinking they are diversifying But buying IVV, SPY, SPLG, VOO does not diversify you as they all hold the same underlying basket , its not going to really hurt you in any way though
What are our thoughts on Tilray as they expand their business as well as the possibility of the reclassification of marijuana? I have a few stocks of Tilray with hopes for growth. I currently only have about $1000 in my account that I have spread out over a few different stocks to stay diversified. I have been thinking that making larger, smart penny trades that I could build my portfolio. It seems that this sort of stuff "clicks" for me in my brain so I'm seeing the patterns and understanding the lingo. I also have long term investments such as Google, Intel (I think they will make a comeback), Waste Management, and ETFs: IVV and QQQM. I've also noticed that carnival just started it's uptick so I bought into them to hold for a while before selling at the next drop. I've only really been getting into this for the last month so any advice for a noob would be nice.
Can someone help me out and let me know if I'm on the right track? VOO - 200 USD so far IVV - 500 USD so far (I plan to max out VOO instead, I was stupid and didn't realise I shouldn't invest in 2 S&P 500 indexes - I will keep this and do not plan on selling it) SCHD - USD 50 Bitcoin - USD 40 Solana - USD 15 Let me know what you think I can improve and what I should continue to do? I plan to add QQQ and VYMI next month. This has been 2 months of investing so far, and I'm 26
S&P 500 ETF like IVV or VOO, or growth with SPYG, TCHP. Then if you want to take more risk, tech stocks llike (INOD, NBIS, PLTR, RKLB) Good luck.
I just started investing at the age of 26 as well. I'm a bit late, but I put some funds into IVV, VOO, and SCHD. I'm considering adding QQQ and VTI to the portfolio soon. I've also put some funds into crypto like Bitcoin and XRP.
It depends what you mean by low risk tolerance In general broad basted index funds like Total USA market or Total World market are risky in the short term but low risk in the very long term , by long term I mean 30 years "Safer" investments like short term bonds are safe short term, but long term have inflation risk, meaning you could keep $100 in a bank and get what ever the rate is, you won't lose money in a crash but over 30 years that money may not keep up with inflatoin Were some broad market index fund may crash 30-40-50% in the short term, but long term will most likely have the best returns out pacing inflatoin SPY is an S&P500 index fund, if you want to do that I would choose another fund like IVV or VOO as it has a slightly lower expense ratio Personally I do this [https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Three-fund\_portfolio](https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Three-fund_portfolio) As you are young you can skip bonds or only hold a small amount is the general consensus
When is poor Blackrock gonna catch a break and IVV catch up to VOO 😭
IVV has a 46% return in my IRA. METC 32% return SPMO 67% SMFG 65% My whole IRA is earning 22% lately.
You on the right track. Max out the tax advantaged accounts then open a brokerage. You don’t have to know that much, just buy a broad based etf like VOO, VTI, SCHB, SPY or IVV. Dollar cost average what you can every month.
“All my money” it’s hardly 5% of my portfolio? I never said they were set and forget either lmao weird assumptions to make when they conveniently prove your bias. My largest positions are IVV and VGT. What basic concepts am i not understanding? You haven’t mentioned one, besides your no free lunch comment you said twice. LOL like you’re so confused and making things up that I’ve never said. ETFs like ULTY and MSTY are for income genius, that’s why i called them income funds.. they’re for income! 🤣
IVV and A200 already give you strong US and Australian exposure, but adding an international ETF covering Europe and Asia would diversify your portfolio and reduce home bias. Broad global ETFs smooth out volatility compared to relying heavily on single stocks like NVDA or PLTR. Focus on building a long-term structure, mostly global ETFs with a smaller slice in individual stocks you believe in and keep adding consistently.
This is hypothetical I assume? I guess IVV and Apple, Microsoft, or Nvidia.
Some people mistakenly think diversification is buying different ETFs, however if those ETFs holds all the same things, it does not add diversification So for example buying IVV, VOO, SPLG does not add any diversification at all as they all follow the same index. Holding all three adds nothing , and there is no benefit, there is no real downside besides it just being confusing and overly complicated
1. Don’t ask for advice from these retards. They don’t know what they’re doing either. (Neither do I, but I’m a degenerate) 2. As soon as your puts go green sell them. 3. Put your money into VOO, IVV, SPY, or QQQ and set it to just automatically invest whatever you can afford each day/week/month/whatever 4. Delete any app that shows your account balance 5. Get yourself banned from this subreddit 6. Wait about 20 years, and be happy as shit when you realize you’re a millionaire and not broke like most of the fuckers here. 7. If I’m still alive, shoot me a message and I’ll give you my Venmo. Just pay me whatever you think this advice was worth.
There are tons of sp500. SPY VOO SPLG ITOT IVV. Fidelity is great because you can just setup weekly buys for dollar amount. Supports fractionals. No reason to use mutual funds. ETF more tax efficient. You should open “some” 529 money. Maybe a smaller amount of the auto. It is a good place for friends and family to put birthday and Christmas gifts. Make it easy for them to deposit. Make sure it is not custodial 529 so you have options with other kids in case the times comes. Best of luck!!
0.4 is pretty cheap if you dont like messing with things. you could do that and see how it does compared to IVV - s/p 500 low cost indexed etf. another option is put you bucks into IVV and purchase fee for service financial planning and then move money as needed... good luck
I would split your money between the S&P and NASDAQ. If they are available in your 401K, use VOO or IVV for the S&P and QQQM for the NASDAQ. VOO and IVV are both at .03% and .15% for QQQM
Generally speaking, you’re better off investing in a market /S&P 500 index fund (VTI, VOO, ITOT, IVV). Sector-based ETFs have historically had lower risk-adjusted returns. If you’re “certain” about the growth of these companies then they would end up being a larger portion of your portfolio as their market caps increase and losers are removed/downweighted by the index.
Look at the 20 year plot for ITA compared to IVV. That's will answer your question.
Ye see this guy gets it. But there are plenty of decent ways to trade without a degree in economics, and trading style is important. ETFs arent a bad place to set and forget for higher than average yields, like what you would get from a CD or high yield savings. Voo, SCHD, IVV, are all good ETFs. I invest in these personally, I do swing trade also a bit. Personally, i only trade big names, future growth, good tangible, trustworthy news around and about the company, good metrics and future potential, also a history of returning capital to investors. theres absolutely degenerates and gamblers amongst us, not to say im not one, some times. I really enjoy IPOs, and tech stocks. Just do your due dilligence, dont fall for FOMO and be very wary of internet investors.
Simplest way to beat the SP500. Invest in IVV and SPMO. The SPMO will get you ever the top.
S&P does some due diligence on these stocks .. vs the Russell. Stocks do pop up on their “completion index” of 3500 stocks (example: the iShares ITOT etf had Applovin’ but not the IVV or IJH .. while their Russell ETFs already did), but they take at least some time when adding the stocks to the large cap 500, mid cap 400, etc..
Honestly, I’d argue the S&P 500 ETF is still the king for long-term, low-maintenance investing. I just broke it down in a video: how it turned everyday people into millionaires with $100/month over time. No hype, just the math. Curious—do you guys prefer VOO, SPY, or IVV for this kind of strategy?
Your 100% Diversified in US Equities with VOO/SPY/IVV, etc.. No need any further. Maybe some Gold tho.
Some people want exposure to different sectors or market caps. Many people also don't trust one single ETF or company with all their money. Also it might be more tax advantageous to buy a new ETF and still keep the old one to avoid paying taxes. When it gets really pointless is buying multiple ETFs that track the same thing. Ex.: VOO/IVV and SPY basically all track the same thing, but eliminates single party risk.
Do you think you can beat people that do this for a living? If not, dump it all in now. If you do, also dump it all in now because you are wrong. VT/VTI/IVV, pick one. Profit. (For the 7k you can't put in now, I would keep it in a high yield savings and then put the 7k into the Roth next year and pocket the interest.
VOO or IVV or SPDR (note that it has only recently tracked the sp500). Something like DFAU can also work. Don’t touch it for decades. Also $700 is nothing. What has your two investments been before? If you want higher risk higher rewards just leverage the sp500 although I wouldn’t exactly recommend that in this market.
Index funds seem smart. Buy them in small increments over a six month period. Then don’t look back. In ten years, you’ll be very happy! Put money (somewhat evenly) into: 1) S&P 500 Fund (SPY, VOO, VUG, IVV) 2) QQQ (nasdaq 100 fund) 3) BRK-B (Berkshire Hathaway) 4) Blackstone (if more risk seeking) Then pick a couple individual stocks if you must (but understand, the funds above own a ton of AAPL, NVDA, MSFT etc). You’ll own them by default without the daily risk of something hitting any one company. That said, a lot of people have made a ton of money just staying in the Mag 7, lol. Who knows!
QQQ, SPY, VOO, VUG, IVV are all good. You could also consider BRK-B. Berkshire Hathaway has some nice diversification with some stability (lots of Apple stock, oil stocks, AMEX, B of A, Geico, and dozens of other things. They’re also sitting on a ton of cash.
I was referring to IVV, BlackRock's S&P 500 ETF (what the IBIT revenue is being compared against in the article). It's the 3rd most popular S&P 500 ETF behind SPY and VOO.
Just some terminology what may be a moot point Most of Vanguard funds have 2 share classes , they have an ETF version VOO and a Mutual fund version VFIAX . Note they are the "same" fund just one share class is organized as an ETF VOO and one is a mutual Fund VFIAX For long term investing it really does not matter what one you buy, however VFIAX may not be offered at all brokerages . Or you may get charged a fee if you try to buy VFIAX at schwab or fidelity . However at schwab or fidelity you can buy VOO , and holding VOO at schwab or fidelity or RH is the same as holding VOO directly at vangaurd So really for longer term investing it really makes no difference if you open a vangaurd account and buy their MF VFIAX through the vangaurd brokerage , or simply buy VOO through RH (or any other brokerage) Also vangaurd funds are well known and lots of people know their popular funds or tickers, so sometimes when people say "Buy VTI/VOO" they really mean just buy some total market fund or S&P500 fund Fidelity and schwab will offer very similar funds like SCHB or SWPPX that are essentially equivalents to VTI or VOO and the returns will be near identical Now some people hate the vangaurd brokerage website or app , its designed to be simple and boring . Its great for people who just want to contribute $XXX a month/quarter/year and buy index funds. Its not really designed for "trading" or doing research into companies (although they do have some tools) and they will restrict some funds that do not fit the vangaurd style of investing (think some 3x leveraged long or short fund) However some people miss the point, being simple and boring is the entire point. Brokerages like RH want you to trade , buy/sell as often as possible. It will give you all sorts of alerts and breaking news , you can sign up for their news letters the snack that will give daily market updates, my cynical view is all this is to encourage you to trade more, and its been shown on average the less you trade , the better you do. So in the end there is really little difference if you buy VOO on Robinhood or setup a brokerage with vangaurd and buy VOO, or if you buy a different S&P500 fund like IVV or SWPPX, however the vangaurd site does have an advantage of being very simple and extremely boring what may or may not fit your style
Time to sell some Treasuries and pivot into either IVV or FFLG. If it is red, time to trade. Stocks only go up it seems.
Look at IVV, IBIT, IAU, IETC and see if anything looks like what you're looking for.
Bro, please just set up an auto buy for VOO, IVV, QQQ or SPY. Delete every app you have, get yourself banned from this sub and wait 20 years. You’ll be a millionaire way before you recover from losing all your money in options.
SPY has the highest expense ratio of all the major S&P500 ETFs. VOO, IVV, and even State Street’s own SPLG are generally superior options for anyone not buying/selling options (no pun intended).
IVV - everyone is VOO heavy, but I use a lot of Blackrock funds, so I opted for IVV. PG - World ends, you all still buy toilet paper as you saw in 2020. JNJ - Same deal as PG. Still buy medicine. MMM - 3M makes everything around your life. From the tape you used to wrap the gifts you are in credit card debt over to special soaps in hospitals SGOV - Bonds. As risk free I can get without just putting it in high yield savings Honorable mention to SOFI, HOOD, and IBIT, whose growth has grown to near large position level.
Holy shit hope you guys didn’t buy SPY puts 9m SPLG 1.5m IVV 1.2m SPY
The general advice with a passive strategy is to utilize ETF's. They handle the diversification for you, and index-tracking ones (EX: SPY, VOO, IVV) basically just follow the market. There's other types (large cap, small cap, international, broad, regional, emerging markets, etc) that you can explore, but the return on those is tied to specific sector performance rather than the general market.
SPY, VOO, SPLG, FXAIX, IVV are all the same thing. VOO is just the most popular. VTI is a total market index which is technically more diversified containing small amounts of small caps, REITs, etc. But practically speaking it performs the same as VOO. These funds are all highly diversified and market cap weighted. QQQ is not the same, it's a somewhat arbitrary selection of mostly big tech and growth stocks. Boglehead strategy or any strategy that seeks to capture average market returns says you shouldn't buy QQQ because it isn't market cap weighted and it's sort of actively managed in the sense that companies are listed based on a set of requirements. By buying QQQ you're trying to outperform the market and statistically when you do that you are much more likely to underperform the market.
Dollar Cost Average into an SP500 ETF like IVV, SPY, or VOO which holds 500 large capitalization stocks. It doesn't matter which SP500 ETF. When you get to $10,000 in your portfolio, start diversifying into international ETF like IXUS or other ETFs that focus on technology, financial, healthcare, and/or other sectors that are in a growth trend in the business cycle. When you turn 21 and live independently, start saving cash in a High Yield Savings Account or Money Market Fund. You should save 6 months or more worth of expenses. Keep this cash away from your investments. This is your emergency fund for the tough times that hopefully never happen. After that start researching individual stocks with growth potential and start buying those.
Ishare is owned by blackrock, IVV is ishare sp500 tracking etf.
Usually every brokerage house gives you access to some type of S&P 500 fund. It doesn't matter whether it's an ETF or mutual fund and doesn't matter the brand. Fidelity FXAIX will perform the same as VOO and as iShares IVV, all of which you can get at Fidelity for no transaction cost. 401ks are more limited, but there's usually a broad based index fund available. If they have a total market fund instead, that's just as good or even better. If you have a crappy 401k with no index funds, just find the lowest expense ratio large cap domestic fund they have.
Why not IVV if this is not a retirement account? You are also clearly missing out if you don't add some diversity to other sectors as well as the qqqs for return. You cannot completely set it and forget it. Initially I would go with an ETF over a mutual fund all day long
Size too small for any of those meaningful compete with just parking it in QQQ or IVV.
I like Fidelity but it doesn't super matter. You can put any amount of money at a time into mutual funds like FXAIX, FZROX, FZILX or buy fractional shares of ETFs (slightly more of a hassle) like IVV, ITOT, IXUS.