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What is a good tax cost ratio for a taxable account?
[News] A January "rout" in megacap tech stocks this month is now the Wall Street consensus, according to the BofA equity team.
[NEWS] A January "rout" in megacap tech stocks this month is now the Wall Street consensus, according to the BofA equity team.
Your Opinion: Capital Gains Avoidance (Low Income Year) + ROVR Blackstone Deal
What would be the most tax efficient way distributing my savings?
What would be the most tax efficient way distributing my savings?
What would be the most tax efficient way distributing my savings?
Is iShares Core S&P 500 ETF (IVV) a good Stock to buy?
Stick to U.S. stocks that offer experience over hope
Morgan Stanley bear Wilson sees a 2019-like rally this year
BlackRock to Expand Proxy Voting Choice to Its Largest ETF
Is my proposed portfolio more complex than it needs to be?
Same ETFs, does it matter regarding performance and fees?
Improving Stock Market Portfolio Allocation (50% IVV, 50% IWF)
How are your deposits and investments protected if your bank bankrupts?
How are your deposits and investments protected if your bank bankrupts?
Equal weight S&P 500 ETF has outperformed SPY, VOO, and IVV over the past 20 years
Sometimes its good not to miss the WAVE
Hey, I’m 69 and looking into asset allocation for my long term buy and hold portfolio.
Why are NASDAQ-100 index funds expensive compared to SP500 index funds or total market funds?
i primarily buy ETF but would like to add stocks to my portfolio
What are your cost averages for your top 3-5 stocks/etfs for the next decade?
Best ETF to invest as an European citizen via Interactive Brokers?
what are US rules on selling and then re-buying ETF shortly afterward?
Any reason to not sell off some of my winning individual stocks to dump money into a S&P 500 ETF?
Why is "does technical analysis/quantitive analysis beat buy and hold" a question surrounded in a ton of opinion instead of facts?
Difference in sector allocations in SPY/VOO/IVV
any free downloadable historical data source?
On risk tolerance. Some people may never invest in stocks again.
Rate My Portfolio (I'm a newb, don't be mean pls)
What's a semi-accurate best guess on what parties are responsible (and at what % of volume) for the roughly 1-2b shares of SPY traded monthly on average?
Success with Online Published Resource advice
Why Am I Not Receiving Dividend Yields?
0% Expense Ratio Mutual Funds Vs Indexed ETFs
U.S. Weekly FundFlows Insight Report: SPY sees strong demand, while Small-Cap/Tech experiences outflows
It's way better to buy at market close than at market open, most gains happen overnight for major ETFs
How to find similar index funds to consolidate in my account?
1st-time investor - need help
All my money is in IVV (S&P500). I would like to get into IVH (MidCap US) and IVR (SmallCap US) is it a good time?
All my money is in IVV (S&P500). I would like to get into IVH (MidCap US) and IVR(SmallCap US) is it a good time?
What are Some Key Things To Look for When Doing DD?
Helpful guide on researching & analyzing stocks [Things to consider looking at]
Helpful guide on researching, analyzing & performing DD on stocks [15 things to consider looking at]
Helpful guide on researching, analyzing & performing DD on stocks [15 things to consider looking at]
apes in order to find how far amc rocket can fly we gotta know how much gas we can fill it with these are citadel long stocks when amc gets that margin called these are the stocks that will be liquidized their top stock IVV position is worth 1.26 BILLION how far can we fly? comment yalls targets
HELPFUL GUIDE on researching, analyzing & performing DD [due diligence] on stocks [15 things to consider looking at]
How would a Citadel forced Liquidation to cover impact their largest holdings? Eg Would their 1% position in IVV or SQQ have any impact on the funds price?
Mentions
Holy shit hope you guys didn’t buy SPY puts 9m SPLG 1.5m IVV 1.2m SPY
The general advice with a passive strategy is to utilize ETF's. They handle the diversification for you, and index-tracking ones (EX: SPY, VOO, IVV) basically just follow the market. There's other types (large cap, small cap, international, broad, regional, emerging markets, etc) that you can explore, but the return on those is tied to specific sector performance rather than the general market.
SPY, VOO, SPLG, FXAIX, IVV are all the same thing. VOO is just the most popular. VTI is a total market index which is technically more diversified containing small amounts of small caps, REITs, etc. But practically speaking it performs the same as VOO. These funds are all highly diversified and market cap weighted. QQQ is not the same, it's a somewhat arbitrary selection of mostly big tech and growth stocks. Boglehead strategy or any strategy that seeks to capture average market returns says you shouldn't buy QQQ because it isn't market cap weighted and it's sort of actively managed in the sense that companies are listed based on a set of requirements. By buying QQQ you're trying to outperform the market and statistically when you do that you are much more likely to underperform the market.
Dollar Cost Average into an SP500 ETF like IVV, SPY, or VOO which holds 500 large capitalization stocks. It doesn't matter which SP500 ETF. When you get to $10,000 in your portfolio, start diversifying into international ETF like IXUS or other ETFs that focus on technology, financial, healthcare, and/or other sectors that are in a growth trend in the business cycle. When you turn 21 and live independently, start saving cash in a High Yield Savings Account or Money Market Fund. You should save 6 months or more worth of expenses. Keep this cash away from your investments. This is your emergency fund for the tough times that hopefully never happen. After that start researching individual stocks with growth potential and start buying those.
Ishare is owned by blackrock, IVV is ishare sp500 tracking etf.
Usually every brokerage house gives you access to some type of S&P 500 fund. It doesn't matter whether it's an ETF or mutual fund and doesn't matter the brand. Fidelity FXAIX will perform the same as VOO and as iShares IVV, all of which you can get at Fidelity for no transaction cost. 401ks are more limited, but there's usually a broad based index fund available. If they have a total market fund instead, that's just as good or even better. If you have a crappy 401k with no index funds, just find the lowest expense ratio large cap domestic fund they have.
Why not IVV if this is not a retirement account? You are also clearly missing out if you don't add some diversity to other sectors as well as the qqqs for return. You cannot completely set it and forget it. Initially I would go with an ETF over a mutual fund all day long
Size too small for any of those meaningful compete with just parking it in QQQ or IVV.
I like Fidelity but it doesn't super matter. You can put any amount of money at a time into mutual funds like FXAIX, FZROX, FZILX or buy fractional shares of ETFs (slightly more of a hassle) like IVV, ITOT, IXUS.
I was previously running a triple leveraged ETF portfolio for my HSA based on a back test from portfoliovisualizer. Deleveraged that portfolio in February and bought BRKB, IVV, and SGOV. It was a good call when things were extremely volatile in April and May. Now, it’s doing better than an only US portfolio but obviously underperforming if you hold ex US developed. I increased my gold allocation around the same time in February to 8-10% as a hedge against dollar devaluation and treasury market jitters. it’s been doing great.
1. I don't want to say the exact number but >100k 2. 15% 3. Thinking of taking Nvidia down to around 10% and replacing 5% with ASML 4. 50% IVV, and the rest split between GOOGL, CRM, ORCL, AMZN, UBER, UNH along with some other small ASX mining/resource stocks. 5. Long-term investor hence why I was conscious of having a relatively large portion of my portfolio in Nvidia. I have some small speculation plays but in a different account and I'm not touching that for now.
Buying individual stocks can be stressful, doing it correctly means research and babysitting. The only stock I still hold years later is AAPL, but everything else is ETFs which helps me sleep better. Stick with the advice of almost entirely ETFs, and a small allocation to stocks so you can learn with small bets. As for ETFs, keep it simple. Since you’re young I suggest 50% S&P index like IVV or VOO, 30% IDMO for international, 10% FBTC (if you don’t like crypto then make S&P 60%, 10% individual stocks.
Here is some information. There are ETFs and mutual funds that track the S&P 500. Popular S&P 500 Index Funds (including ETF equivalents): Vanguard S&P 500 ETF (VOO): A very popular ETF tracking the S&P 500 with a low expense ratio. iShares Core S&P 500 ETF (IVV): Another popular ETF tracking the S&P 500, also with a low expense ratio. SPDR S&P 500 ETF Trust (SPY): The oldest ETF in the U.S. and a widely traded fund that tracks the S&P 500. Schwab S&P 500 Index Fund (SWPPX): A mutual fund with no minimum investment and a very low expense ratio. Fidelity 500 Index Fund (FXAIX): A mutual fund with no minimum investment and a low expense ratio. ETFs vs Mutual Funds https://www.schwab.com/etfs/mutual-funds-vs-etfs
Target Dates do not have a great rate of return. I would liquidate some or all of it and get an S&P 500 Index ETF or mutual fund (IVV, VOO. A total market index fund could be a good idea as well, such as VTI.
Liquidate your target date fund immediately. It's a fundamentally flawed investment product, let alone one for retirement. You are better off with IVV or QQQ. Bonds have terrible risk/reward in current environment.
I also put some stable, hold forever items in my play account including IVV and SCHD so that the account really can't go to zero, and I could reconstitute some more play money from the dividends if needed. Again, majority of money is the safer, passive investing route which I recommend for the bulk of the dough for most.
>When I look at VXUS I see it is now at the same point it was in June 2021. There has been no real game. Take a look at the first decade of IVV: https://testfol.io/?s=eUCeS67D18P it was actually **negative**. What happened the 10 years after? https://testfol.io/?s=94HHBioOQGl excellent performance. What is IVV? The S&P 500, the exact same thing as VOO, just roughly a decade older. So you can't judge future returns off recent past. For additional fun, to those same time periods add an emerging market fund and you'll see it did excellent for the first test, but flattened out for the second. This adjusts the dates by a few months, but gives a good enough idea: * Part 1: https://www.portfoliovisualizer.com/backtest-asset-class-allocation?s=y&sl=5u9pYlidY1yuH7IrT5lTvQ Imagine it is early 2010 and you're looking at those as the returns over the past 10 years. Clearly you're going heavy on emerging with little to no US, right? But then we get to what followed: * Part 2: https://www.portfoliovisualizer.com/backtest-asset-class-allocation?s=y&sl=6wb3ByLL7vRwBKpJPHf6Gt >Between now and that point, there has been a loss. How so? Your own numbers (which will get to in a second) show a gain. >When looking at the chart going back to 2011, it's inception, it was released at $37. So in 14 years it's gained $31. If you're only at price returns, you're missing out. Total returns = price returns + distributions (including dividends). Using dividend reinvestment instead of share price appreciation shows a different story: * With dividend reinvestment: https://testfol.io/?s=eMdcm6Gfn38 * Price returns only: https://testfol.io/?s=2P65tTSDdBD >Can someone explain to me why you would invest in this? It would seem only wise if you were capable of timing the market correctly Looking only at the relatively short existence of these finds paints an incomplete picture. Using the asset classes they follow, we can see periods even 50+ years long where international would have come out ahead of the US. Going as far back as 1950, all excess returns the US enjoys today (read: the last time the lines crossed) come only from 2010 or so, a roughly 60 year period that you'd have seen the US end behind international. Every decade (xxx0-xxx9) between 1950 and 1989 ended with the US behind international. * PWL using Morningstar Data for decades back to 1950: https://pbs.twimg.com/media/GGJxJPsWsAAxy9c?format=png * https://twitter.com/mebfaber/status/1090662885573853184?lang=en with this reply: https://twitter.com/MorningstarES/status/1091081407504498688. Extended version: https://mebfaber.com/2019/02/06/episode-141-radio-show-34-of-40-countries-have-negative-52-week-momentumbig-tax-bills-for-mutual-fund-investorsand-listener-qa/ or here’s compared to EAFE 1970-2015, note that the black US line only jumps above the green ex-US line for the "final time" around 2011: https://donsnotes.com/financial/images/sp-msci-42yr.png (courtesy of https://www.reddit.com/r/Bogleheads/comments/143018v/comment/jn9yiub/) or here’s another back to 1970 view: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bogleheads/comments/199zs0s/us_exus_equity_and_bonds_dating_back_to_1970_not/ This longer term history would show that going global can be beneficial to both returns and volatility compared to a US only portfolio like VOO would be. You can see that here: * https://www.bogleheads.org/wiki/Domestic/International (figures 2 & 4 I believe) * https://www.fidelity.com/viewpoints/investing-ideas/international-investing-myths if that link doesn't work: https://web.archive.org/web/20201112032727/https://www.fidelity.com/viewpoints/investing-ideas/international-investing-myths (Archived copy from Archive.org's Wayback Machine) * 1970 to 2010 US vs ex-US vs Mix: https://testfol.io/?s=4YrLUqUhjWi Since 2010 we have seen the markets be especially kind to the US, possibly abnormally so (have you ever heard that the long term average of the market is about 10% CAGR? VOO is over 14% CAGR since inception), however, that doesn't necessarily mean the future will look like the past 15 years have. In fact, historically, the better the previous 10 years were, it seems the worse the next 10 years generally were: https://www.lazyportfolioetf.com/allocation/us-stocks-rolling-returns/ scroll down to “Previous vs subsequent Returns” (I do wish this had an r^2 measure) >This to me appears to be the more sound investment. Place yourself in 1989 or 2009. Would you be saying the same? Almost certainly not. Did that help make the case for why a global approach may be more sound? If not, feel free to ask for a followup.
My reason is: your gut is often wrong and you're going to lose a lot of money. Just put it in IVV and forget about it
I mean, from a market cap weight perspective, its not crazy to suggest a small single digit percent allocation to bitcoin, typically a retail investor interested in harvesting rebalancing alpha would use an ETF like IBIT for this. Return Stacked came out with RSSX recently in this vein, its a 2x leveraged fund with $1 of S&P500 and $1 of Gold+Btc strategy and they seek to rebalance regularly to try and generate excess returns from the low correlation of the three assets. Because of bitcoins insane volatility, its a small portion of RSSX. Target is 70% S&P500 via an ETF like IVV, 90% gold futures contracts, 20% cash (typical to hold cash when using futures), and then 10ish% bitcoin via ETFs or ETPs.
You see how China barely sold off? This is why I sold my IVV for IEMG and IXUS ASHR is you want to be spicy I’ve got lottery ticket calls for this one
Why VOO and not IVV?? Seriously. IVV has performed much better
It's great that you're investing into the SP500 and have recurring payments set up! This should be the foundation or bulk of your portfolio. You don't need VOO and IVV as they're both SP500 ETFs. VOO has a lower expense ratio, so that's the one I'd keep. It is better to keep just one because theyre essentially the same thing and putting all your money in one will allow it to grow faster/compound more over time. I don't know enough about BB to comment in whether it is a good investment, but cheap stocks aren't always the best picks just because they're inexpensive. There are tons of penny stocks out there, and most will fail. Learn how to read stock data (P/E ratio, EPS, revenue etc. and look up their earnings reports and guidance). This will be the best thing you do to better understand what makes a good stock investment.
I invested 20 with 20 dollars recurring payments in both VOO and IVV. I chose Blackberry because they're software is still being used in cars and stuff, and I was able to afford to buy whole stock as opposed to decimals.
First make sure it’s the right “QUAL” as a few other tickers in other countries use it as well. What I’m seeing is iShares QUAL just a tad below the market (iShares S&P 500 IVV) going back 5 years but performing better in the last year. Going over a decade the S&P proved superior, but that may have been the effect of the post 2008 Federal Reserve stimulus, U.S. fiscal stimulus, etc..
If you're long term investing, I'd go with ETFs. It's basically a group of stocks. The most popular are the S&P500. Its the 500 biggest companies in the US in one stock. Apple included. VOO, SPY, and IVV are some examples. VTI is the whole US stock market in 1 stock. VT is every stock in the world. You could pick any one of these and be good. This is probably the least painless option. Pick one, buy some every month, and wait 20+ years. Don't let the market being down scare you into selling everything. The market being down basically means everythings on sale. Its on the lower side now, so its a good time to invest. If you started investing when the market was good, it can really make you regret investing. If you just wait, it will go back up
Hey! ETFs that replicate indices are your best option if you're unsure about what to buy right now. IVV or VOO if you'd like exposure to the S&P 500, or QQQ if you prefer the Nasdaq, which has a heavier emphasis on tech stocks. Regarding trading, I strongly suggest avoiding vague concepts that lack clear evidence of profitability and thorough backtesting. These are generally methods for teachers to make money on courses, not for you to make money on trading. Good luck!
Best is very subjective and, in many cases, negligable for most investors. It depends on what you need from the fund. There is no ticker that goes by SDPR for an S&P 500 fund. Are you asking about SPY? Or maybe SPLG? SPLG is 0.02% - SPY is 0.09. - VOO is 0.03 - IVV is 0.03 There are also lots of low expense mutual funds that track the S&P 500 index. SWPPX is 0.02% Fidelity has a fund that technically is not using the S&P 500 index but is a decent large cap index - FNILX has a 0.00% expense ratio.
I'm just like you, I bought 3 shares of IVV the other day
I always recommend going 100% into 1 S&P 500 ETF if you’re nowhere near old enough to retire. Doesn’t matter if it’s VOO, SPY, IVV, or whatever else. Just pick one
I actually sold most of my S&P holdings, really close to the peak; looks like 188.533 IVV on 2-13 for 611.62, then bought 2632 shares of IBIT. Risky af, and it dropped like 10% there for a while, but I held and I'm up 11.83% today on that. So IVV was up 3.46% on the year when I sold it. That puts me at a very shaky 15.29% on the year.
I know. I just ran it vs. VOO, IVV, and FXAIX. Smashed all 3 in recent historical splits (YTD/1/3/5 yr.) That will be my next play if I rebalance my portfolio.
Go for broad market ETFs like VTI or IVV. For some extra flavor, toss in international ones like VXUS
You're still very young. Just start buying shares of VOO or VTI. Or IVV or SPY if you rather. Now is a great time to start. You can still retire a millionaire if you stick to it. Selling options is one thing, buying them is where it's gambling. Check out Bogleheads. Don't make a permanent decision on this temporary problem. You are loved.
FWIW I just started but my most consistent winner this year has been ICLN, a global clean energy ETF. Not huge wins, but it's not as tied to US markets as the big ETFs. So it gives my portfolio both an ethical basis for investing and diversification. It's actually mitigated some short term losses. I also dumped IVV at just the right time (mostly dumb luck but I did stick my thumb in the wind on Monday and I didn't like what I felt) and moved into FGDL (responsibly sourced gold) to get a commodities position, which I think will be important as USD slides over the next ~year.
I have found that investing in Exchange Traded Funds (ETFs) tied to the NASDAQ (ONEQ) and S&P500 (IVV) work very well as the market generally goes up over time, especially a 5-year period like you mentioned. Also, use a good brokerage like Charles Schwab. Good luck!
Buy index funds, VOO/IVV or QQQ/QQQM, till you learn more about the stock market. Don't touch options for now.
You clearly haven’t gone through 2008 and 2021 covid boom. Back then every single one of my coworkers were talking about stocks and putting their entire salary into crypto, meme GME AMC, then all kinds of heavily shorted stocks and hope for a squeeze and get rich quick. That mentality what if I put this much before that stock went up 10 times. Very dangerous mindset. It will either 1. You hold your money and waiting for years for a crash to happen, but stock keeps going up 1% 2% and toss you behind, you wasted all that time for growth. 2. You can’t wait and sees something drop 10%-20% or even 50% and thinks that’s it, bottom is up. All in with my cash and I will be rich. Then it keeps dipping dipping, reverse split and keeps crashing. Your 100K are left with few thousand. The correct strategy is every month buy a certain amount of IVV/VOO, don’t even think what if you bought too high or too low. If market happened to be crashing, buy a bit more than usual. Simple as that and you are set for life.
You should include futures products in there, too. You can get larger notionals like for SPX, but you could get better margin treatment and choose either physically-settled or effectively cash-settled positions. You can also choose American or European style. You can also expect 60/40 tax treatment if you're after that. If you want dividend exposure, it pretty much needs to be SPY/VOO/IVV. If you want section 1256 but in your securities account (maybe for cross-margining or lower trading costs), that would be SPX/XSP. If you want to trade early exercise premium, that needs to be either the ETF/stock options or futures options. You can trade interest rates in all of the products. If you want the most duration, that is probably SPX. So what structure or strategy were you thinking to "bet on the index"? That affects which products
Why active? There are many fantastic passive funds. If you have no other core buy VOO or VTI or IVV or SCHB. Great, cheap, solid, tried-and-true funds.
Being early is the same as being wrong. I am all in on a CD right now, one expires in 6 months the other in 13 months (1 month already down). If the SP500 is lower then than it is now, I will all in into my stable "money storage" port (40% IVV 40% FDVV 5% IHDG 5% JBBB 10% XDTE)
Most brokers have decent mutual funds which are low expense that you can just use. If you want to use ETFs - there are ETFs like IVV, VTI, VT, etc which can give you broad exposure to US and/or world markets. There are also lower risk bond funds if you want to have an allocation of debt assets since interest rates are quite high.
At age 18, your best bet is to focus on growth because you have a lot of years ahead. You already have a good set of stocks albeit heavily weighted in tech. I would definitely stay away from crypto as there is no inherent value there. I would hold a few stocks but have most money going forward in etfs. I recommend QQQ, SMH, XLK, SPMO, IVV. Good luck!
Check the fees and make sure it's ok with you. Unless you did it on purpose, I would not pick two similar type ETFs, such as SPY and IVV. If you do, fine but treat that as 56.66% allocation to S&P and determine if that's what you want or not. I think a target date fund is just noise and slower returns in an ETF portfolio but if you like it, keep it. Same with IBIT and BITX, if they are similar in tracking, just stick with the lowest fee. Those crypto ETFs have higher fees already so consider the lower fee. Those fees will eat your returns, run a calculation on it and see if you think it's worth it to own.
Same boring thing I do everyday. Check in at market open, mid-day, and again at close, though sometimes I only get around to check after close. I'll keep my well diversified positions untouched, and then I'll do the same thing tomorrow. Next payday, my 401K, IRA, and brokerage will automatically be funded, and the only thing I'll need to do is buy 90% IVV and 10% BND in my brokerage. My 401K and IRA automatically invest. Once in awhile I'll buy a single stock that I've researched well, and plan to keep for years, but I keep single stock purchases in total to under 10% of my portfolio. I don't mess around with gambling, err, options, I mean. I had very few single stocks that significantly beat the market, and never did anything exciting in the market, besides buy a third of a bitcoin a few years ago. I signed on to the get rich slowly plan, and it's working nicely. I came from nothing, and now have a 7 figure net worth. You'd never know I was a multimillionaire if you met me, because I live well below my means, and don't flash my money around. Yes, I know, boring post of the day award in wallstreetbets. 
Are you buying and holding? You can buy SPLG if you want cheaper shares that hold the same basket as IVV.
[https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/EWG/](https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/EWG/) (US stock mkt slightly down YTD) [https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/%5EHSI/](https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/%5EHSI/) (Germany stock market +27% YTD) [https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/VGK/](https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/VGK/) (EU up +17%) [https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/IVV/](https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/IVV/) (Hong Kong stock market +15% YTD) [Mainlaind China stock market +3.5% YTD](https://www.google.com/search?q=shanghai+index+ytd&sca_esv=e4784d011bb8751d&rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS810US810&sxsrf=AHTn8zrIB7kbqcrH8tfH9ClAgfUQtn9JdA%3A1747138973092&ei=nTkjaK6rBa-4wN4PgrXcgQU&ved=0ahUKEwju7fTut6CNAxUvHNAFHYIaN1AQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=shanghai+index+ytd&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiEnNoYW5naGFpIGluZGV4IHl0ZDIPECMYgAQYJxiKBRhGGPoBMgYQABgWGB4yBhAAGBYYHjIGEAAYFhgeMgsQABiABBiGAxiKBTILEAAYgAQYhgMYigUyCxAAGIAEGIYDGIoFMggQABiABBiiBDIIEAAYgAQYogQyGRAAGIAEGIoFGEYY-gEYlwUYjAUY3QTYAQFI7xNQggVYxxJwAXgBkAEAmAF2oAGQBaoBAzAuNrgBA8gBAPgBAZgCB6ACsAbCAgoQABiwAxjWBBhHwgINEAAYgAQYsAMYQxiKBcICChAjGIAEGCcYigXCAgUQABiABMICChAAGIAEGBQYhwLCAgsQABiABBiRAhiKBZgDAIgGAZAGCboGBggBEAEYE5IHAzEuNqAHsDuyBwMwLja4B5sG&sclient=gws-wiz-serp) I don't appreciate being call a liar by someone who can't be bothered to look up basic things like stock returns.
1) Pay off debt 2) Build emergency fund (3-6 months of cushion in case of disaster) 3) Do not skip #1 or #2 4) Open a Roth IRA through a broker (Fidelity or Vanguard) - max it out with $7k each year. You are NOT ALLOWED to skip your Roth. This is unacceptable. This is tax protected money. You will thank me in 40 years. 5) If you have money left, Open an investment account separate from Roth. 6) With your Roth and Investment accounts, choose how you want to invest those monies. At this point, this is where it gets fun. Research Index Funds. This is essentially “the market.” Most people start with something easy like the SP500 (those tickers are VOO, IVV, SPY, SPLG etc).
Put 50% in a high yield savings accounts. Doctor of Credit has a list of FDIC insured accounts. Pick 3 banks and equal split. Put 10% in Gold and Silver ETF's and Gold and Silver Miners with 2.5% each in (SLV, SIL, GLD, GDX) 30% in S&P 500 Index Fund with low expense ratio like IVV or VOO 5% in high dividend yield ETF's KBWY or XSHD with 2.5% in each 5% in MAG7 via an ETF like MGK
Nah, whole market ETF with a low cost. Many people recommend VOO (top 500 companies) or its whole market equivalent VTI. Both are owned by Vanguard. You could also buy their competitor equivalents like ITOT, SCHB, SPY or IVV.
Yo, honestly, your portfolio is like trying to win bingo with too many cards. 😂 You’ve got a ton of overlap, especially with the large-cap U.S. stocks (IVV, SPHQ, SPMO, SCHG) – they’re all just fancy ways of saying S&P 500.
VWO – Vanguard FTSE Emerging Markets ETF SPMO – Invesco S&P 500 Momentum ETF VEA – Vanguard FTSE Developed Markets ETF SPHQ – Invesco S&P 500 Quality ETF IVV – iShares Core S&P 500 ETF SCHG – Schwab U.S. Large-Cap Growth ETF BND – Vanguard Total Bond Market ETF VB – Vanguard Small-Cap ETF Is this a good portfolio for my Roth IRA ? I’m 21 , I just made it on robinhood and this is what they gave me , but chatgbt said I should consolidate all the ones that are similar / track large cap SMP ? So what do you guys think
DUDE why didnt you put the money into IVV or VOO, literally dumped it into sp500, and you would had been fine for years to come.
Hello I am 27M, make about 40k a year. I contribute about $200 into a Roth IRA and about 100 into crypto each week. My main question is the investments I’m making into my Roth IRA and my individual account. I’m currently just focusing on maxing out my Roth IRA and then back to my individual account once it is maxed, for my Roth IRA I’m investing into IVV and for my individual account I have SPY and VTI. Which ones should I drop and what should I replace it with? I’m pretty new to investing and any advice would be great. Thank you
i think thats not enough diversification. I'd say 25% VOO 25% IVV 25% SPY and 25% SPLG. gotta be diversified man
Hello, I am a nineteen year old, currently making my way through college while living at home, who's recently come to the decision to bump up the amount that I'm investing on a monthly basis. I'm also looking to further diversify my portfolio, and could use some advice on how I should go about doing so. Previously, I've been investing, roughly, $750.00/per month into two primary stocks. Nvidia, and the SPDR S&P 500 ETF. I've decided to bump up my investment amount by double, and am now going to be putting in $1,500.00 per month. This is my current idea for allocation at the end of each month: Per month/$1,500.00 General ETFs: $1,200.00 (80.00%) —(SPY) SPDR S&P 500 ETF; $600.00 (40.00%) —(IVV) ishares core S&P 500 ETF; $250.00 (16.66%) —(SOXX) Ishares Semiconductor ETF; $250.00 (16.66%) —(ITDI) ishares 2065 target date fund ETF; $100.00 (6.66%) Dividend Funds: $150.00 (10.00%) —(SCHD) Schwab US Dividend ETF; $100.00 (6.66%) —(PLD) Prologis Inc.; $50.00 (3.33%) REITs: $100.00 (6.66%) —(VNQ) Vanguard Real estate ETF; $100.00 (6.66%) High-risk; $50.00 (3.33%) (Crypto, individual stocks, emerging markets, etc.) —(IBIT) iShares Bitcoin Trust ETF; $25.00 (1.66%) —(BITX) 2× Bitcoin Strategy ETF; $25.00 (1.66%) Any advice is appreciated, and thank you for your time!
Hello, I am a nineteen year old, currently making my way through college while living at home, who's recently come to the decision to bump up the amount that I'm investing on a monthly basis. I'm also looking to further diversify my portfolio, and could use some advice on how I should go about doing so. Previously, I've been investing, roughly, $750.00/per month into two primary stocks. Nvidia, and the SPDR S&P 500 ETF. I've decided to bump up my investment amount by double, and am now going to be putting in $1,500.00 per month. This is my current idea for allocation at the end of each month: Per month/$1,500.00 General ETFs: $1,200.00 (80.00%) —(SPY) SPDR S&P 500 ETF; $600.00 (40.00%) —(IVV) ishares core S&P 500 ETF; $250.00 (16.66%) —(SOXX) Ishares Semiconductor ETF; $250.00 (16.66%) —(ITDI) ishares 2065 target date fund ETF; $100.00 (6.66%) Dividend Funds: $150.00 (10.00%) —(SCHD) Schwab US Dividend ETF; $100.00 (6.66%) —(PLD) Prologis Inc.; $50.00 (3.33%) REITs: $100.00 (6.66%) —(VNQ) Vanguard Real estate ETF; $100.00 (6.66%) High-risk; $50.00 (3.33%) (Crypto, individual stocks, emerging markets, etc.) —(IBIT) iShares Bitcoin Trust ETF; $25.00 (1.66%) —(BITX) 2× Bitcoin Strategy ETF; $25.00 (1.66%) Any advice is appreciated, and thank you for your time!
Someone sold 1.7 million shares of IVV at $533 immediately after market close. Here is hoping my puts work out tomorrow. Do you guys think this is an insider or a fat-fingered dufus that is going to be fired tomorrow? https://preview.redd.it/lrtv3f1j3nxe1.png?width=1206&format=png&auto=webp&s=42248712da8cff1e80e2615c9f0192b7632d327d
If homey can’t afford 1 share of IVV, he ain’t paying capital gains taxes on the minuscule distributions
The wash sale rule is just an accounting thing - you didn't actually lose any money here. The adjusted cost basis (that $10 higher price you're seeing) gets added to your new shares to prevent tax loss harvesting shenanigans. Since you're holding long-term, this literally won't matter at all. The market's been super volatile lately with all the trade war nonsense and Trump's tariff disasters tanking global growth forecasts, but IVV is a solid long-term hold. Just keep dollar cost averaging and ignore the wash sale adjustment - it'll all work out in your cost basis when you eventually sell decades from now.
>Investors pour $16B into S&P 500 ETFs VOO, SPY, and IVV since ‘Liberation Day’ Retail buying the dip LMAO
Trading the headline news and chaotic government policy is the worst possible strategy for most retail investors. Retail investors and savers need a long-term, all-weather investing discipline. Media finance advisor Dave Ramsey says, he is *always a buyer* of stocks, in calm or choppy markets. What he means, is he is always contributing to the index funds in his portfolio. Translation: establish a long-term multi-year dollar cost averaging strategy, always maintaining some dry powder for when markets collapse. (They seem to collapse every 5-10 years, these days, so you are never far from an opportunity to load up on the broad indices.) Priot to, and during this latest tariff-provoked market "correction", I was contributing (weekly) to an S&P 500 index fund like I have been for several years. I wasn't doing anything different than before and after the election last fall, or the year before. Because I had 20% of my assets in cash-like investments (short-term Treasury bills and money market funds), I was able to buy a substantial position the S&P 500 market ETFs (SPY, VOO, IVV) when the S&P 500 hit 5,000 (and below). This is a long-term trade on top of slowly building a position in the same asset (the S&P 500) in conventional index mutual funds (as opposed to ETFs). My strategy, therefore, is to liquidate the ETF purchased during the recent market correction opportunity when *gains become long-term* (and capital gains are eligible for a lower \[or zero\] tax rate, depending on the level of earned income). The profits from the broad tariff-induced correction in equities then go into *cash-like investments that fund my regular contributions to conventional open-end index mutual funds*. An all-weather strategy that reduces risk substantially.
>Why do people recommend international exposure? Long term it can be beneficial to both returns and volatility. It eliminates an uncompensated risk factor (single country). >If you look at VXUS it’s all time return over like 15 years is just 24% (with some STEEP drops in between). The ETF IVV would have spent the first decade or so of its life as actually negative. But then it went on to have an awesome run. What is IVV? The S&P 500. You cannot base future returns off recent past like that. Here's a perfect example of why you can't base future performance off of the recent past. Same regions used in each of the following links, both a 10 year time period. The 2nd picks up right where the first ends. * Part 1: https://www.portfoliovisualizer.com/backtest-asset-class-allocation?s=y&sl=5u9pYlidY1yuH7IrT5lTvQ Imagine it is early 2010 and you're looking at those as the returns over the past 10 years. Clearly you're going heavy on emerging with little to no US, right? But then we get to what followed: * Part 2: https://www.portfoliovisualizer.com/backtest-asset-class-allocation?s=y&sl=6wb3ByLL7vRwBKpJPHf6Gt In a properly diversified portfolio, there will always be some parts over performing and others under performing. The thing is, which parts those are will change from time to time. It is better to always have part of your portfolio under performing than to sometimes have your entire portfolio under performing. "All time returns" is basically the most useless piece of info that fund pages list. 2 identical funds with different inception dates can have different all time returns, making one look worse than the other, even if their future returns will be the same. The example I used above? VOO was released after the US's lost decade, so it will always show as better than IVV.
What’s the difference between IVV and VOO?
The settlement is likely there to make you whole+pain and suffering. Do the following with the remainder after paying off any medical/other expenses: 1) emergency fund in a high yield savings account. Generally, this fund should be the longer of six months of living expenses OR the time you think it'll take you to get a job. ( For example, I work in an industry that has stringent hiring requirements and once had to wait 14 months between jobs, so my emergency fund is my monthly living expenses x 14 months) 2) Pay off debt, student loans, credit cards, etc 3) Fund a ROTH IRA, don't have to invest it, but go to like Charles Schwab/Fidelity, etc, and put $7,000 in a Roth IRA (but you'll likely end up with something similar to what's in step 4. ) 4) What's left is what you invest. Lots of resources on reddit for it. Personally, I'd do some combination of VOO/IVV and SCHG. 5) Keep your mouth shut about any windfalls irl. People will see that you got what they perceive as "free money" and will try to take advantage.
Can you give an example how for example "iShares Core S&P 500 ETF IVV", their biggest etf, can fail? And how holding the underlying stocks yourself, would be any different?
They have a bias against Vanguard and Boglehead methodology (low cost broad coverage index investing) for some reason. Judging by their reply to this comment of yours, they also have a lack of understanding of long term market history which has shown plenty of times where SCHG and/or SCHD would have trailed VXUS. And they're unaware of how useless "all time" returns are: IVV and VOO are essentially identical (as they're S&P 500 funds), but IVV will always have a worse all time returns due to spending much of their first decade in the negative (US's "lost decade") which VOO was conveniently released just after meaning it avoided that period of poor returns, going forward though they should be expected to have the same returns.
The only problem might be if you own low-grade stocks that aren’t profitable. If you own the market through ETF’s or index funds (VOO, IVV, VTI, etc), just hang on and add to them. Blue chip stocks like MCD, WMT, MSFT, V, etc are likely safe to hold.
I think my losses were partly poor timing of the market on the part of my fiduciary. Significant investment into IVV in mid march. I know timing the market is never the right play, but I think that’s largely responsible for most of my “loss” I could probably dive into the specifics but I’m at work, not the time. Appreciate it though. I had the same qualms that you bring up with my FA but eventually realized that their strategy will work for me longer term, no matter what “timing” mistakes they may have made this year.
That’s just in case I want to close the option out right? Or will there be more premium since there is more liquidity. I am only picking IVV since I want to get assigned and it has a much lower expense ratio (.03% vs .0945%)
I like IVV due to the low expense ration(.03%) vs SPY (.0945%). This is for retirement, I’ll be holding for the next 25 years. So it does matter.
Why would you not use Spy, the options are the best . The bid/ask seems HUGH in IVV, a few pennies in Spy. Open interest is also way better in Spy, which is most traded Etf around.
I have been in the market for about 40 years, via 401K, then adding IRA Roth, and then a brokerage account. I never have used a real broker, mostly just low cost simple investment brokerages, like Fidelity, Schwab (and Scottrade and TD Ameritrade), and I just mostly used funds, now mostly index ETFs to invest my money, only after 20 years of saving did I start buying any single stocks or complex ETFs (REITS, dividend ETFs, etc). If you go 40-60% in VTI or IVV, IMH IJH, then about 10% in REITS, 20% in international, a small but gorwing amount in bonds/fixed income (10-20% and growing with your age, AGG, LQD, SGOV, etc). that will do fine and diversify you some. As you age, you can see if there are areas that you better want to add to, like Gold, Cryto (I mostly avoid it), and other alternatives. So far it was worked well for me, and got me near retirment early. Good luck. I have friends with fancy (expensive) brokers almost all of whom have done worse than I have, and I am not beating the S & P most years, but coming very close with much less volitility.
Random question from someone without a ton of knowledge. A bunch of my stocks are showing really high volume either right at or shortly after closing (NVDA,LULU,IVV). The volume is significantly higher then what was seen earlier today after the tariff news. Is that a clear indicator of something?
schd? no. these high dividend paying companies are gonna slash their dividends very soon. Go IVV and or BRKB
If you think you will or may need those funds within the next year or so, then the prudent thing to do is not buying anything. The market is very volatile now and it may go even lower. If you happen to need the cash then you may have to sell at a loss. It depends a lot on how much money you have as emergency funds (if any) and how much you would be willing to use AND ignore for a while. If you still want to invest, the safest options are index ETFs (SPY, VOO, IVV), they will rebound eventually. If they don’t the main will be huge across the board. The Nasdaq index is more volatile, but tends to have a sharper upswing (QQQ).
What do y’all think is a good reentry point for IVV? 485? 480? 475? Lower? Immature investor here
Yeah, at least on Bloomberg the head of equity trading at Morgan Stanley said the likely resistance for the S&P 500 is like 4700 which is like another 6-7% drop from current prices. I did buy today IVV and sold it immediately before it lost its gains and made $300. I am staying out after that.
I’m going to look into NDQ, IVV tomorrow. I’m in Australia.
Well you should probably always have some exposure to stocks outside of the US, that’s just a premise of diversification. I’d argue that your combo of IVV, GRNY, S&P 500 equal weight, and NASDAQ is probably duplicative. Most of those underlying holdings are going to be the same with some weighted differently and I don’t think that’s adding much value. I’d suggest looking into US small and mid cap stocks and international index funds.
invest into IVV or VOO put a little bit every month so you average the cost. If you plan to leave it there 40 years you'll get the 8% average every year.
THere's only one thing to do man... pay attention shit is reverting back to the mean. There's a reason why META is trading at a 20 PE ratio, GOOGL is at 18, and APPL is at 30. Will they every climb back to 5000 PE ratios? Maybe... but not likely. You have to be in the market to outpace inflation, or to keep up with it, so keep doing the Total Market Funds... it'll will correct eventually. But man, it's going to be hard. My $10k would be in cash right now. Always better to buy on the next upswing... But I feel something like IVV is heading to $475 before we see some pressure upwards.
Happened to me in late 2021. I basically had to just tune everything out for a while, but I also lump summed into things like IVV and QQQm
Those three companies are the three largest ETF and mutual fund issuers in the US. Their ownership is actually millions of individual investors who are invested in their funds, either directly or through their retirement plan. If you as a retail investor buy VOO, SPY or IVV, or many other funds, it's your investment that is increasing that. But it's millions, probably hundreds of millions, of individual investors who are the actual owners, not these companies in their own right.
IVV is at Sept ‘24 level and up 4.74% from April ‘24. Does that help? Oh, and my guess is we’ll see more dips and bounces. It’s investing not trading so HODL.
Topped up on everything in my Roth IRA with 1K. Index goes down 2% more will put another 1K to use. AMZN, TSM, GOOG, MSFT, ASML, AVUV, IVV Does anyone know any good Large cap Quality non-tech names at a discount?
I have 40K into IVV at 585 per share. Currently down
Hi u/Independent-Theory10, Your plan to diversify with 80% in index funds (like IVV) and 20% in high-risk stocks is a smart way to balance stability and learning. For the remaining cash, a high-interest savings account (4.65% p.a.) gives flexibility, while a fixed-term deposit locks in returns but reduces liquidity. If you might need quick access, go with savings or else, term deposits can offer better rates. Also, consider dollar-cost averaging instead of a lump sum to reduce timing risk. Hope this helps :)
I am selling most of my individual stocks (except Mgnfcnt 6). Piling up on SPLG, VT, IVV, VTI. But I am retired so securing the principle is more important than return.
"*insert mag 7* stock is a buy" = "I'm bag holding but IVV is on sale"
Nobody else did it and I don't want you to lose money: *Short answer:* get trading212 - they have new customer offers a lot and you might get free shares - and put money in a "pie" of Europe defense stocks. *Better answer:* Do research, look up finance advice on your favorite medium (be it reddit, /r/personalfinance or youtube, tiktok) and just learn from a variety of sources. Defense stocks are **inherently unstable** and you're better off having a rainy day fund before you start putting money into an [ETF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exchange-traded_fund). No human is better at picking stocks than an index fund. Look at ETFs that track the [S&P 500](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S%26P_500), the popular ones are VOO, IVV and SPY, I forget which has the lowest charge. Never pay a guy to manage this IMO.
FA just bought a shit ton of AVUS and IVV. How fucked am I?
IVV or VOO same thing really, almost the same exp ratio and covers the same index. If I were you I’d also diversify geographically, as USA is expensive compared to rest of world at the moment (relative to historical avg.). Perhaps Europe + some emerging markets.
Just buy ETFs and wait 30yrs. QQQ IVV BRK/B DIA etc.
9 mil IVV 5 mi SPY 3 mil VOO Dumped after hours they are emptying their retirement accounts before the real crash happens and rotating into gold and bonds
Seriously are you all literal regards? DOCU was the same exact price it is now in premarket Go look at the after house volume and see how much SPY IVV and VOO just got dumped Now look at how much bonds and gold ETFs being bought Think about it we might actually have a circuit breaker tomorrow