IVV

hxrris23

You can’t buy back into the same or nearly identical security for 30 days. Ex. If you sell VOO at a loss, you can’t buy back IVV during that window. It doesn’t make sense to lose money on purpose but there is such a thing as “tax alpha” which is essentially the whole idea behind direct indexing. You can earn “alpha” while matching the index exposures by tax loss harvesting positions that are at a loss.

Sea_End_1893

I was 33 when I figured out "my portfolio" and yeah it's pretty much 90% S&P 500 plus some dividend earners I figure, any company worth it will ether become part of the S&P 500 or be devoured and bought out by a company in the S&P 500, so in the end, it doesn't matter. Whether you choose VOO, IVV, FXAIX, whatever your benchmark is, the 500 is where it's at.

grannylovesstocks

—> Advice for Roth IRA portfolio for an 18 year old I just turned 18 a few days ago. Right away I opened an account with Robinhood. Right now, my work situation is kinda rocky so I'm barely making over $600 a month. I'm planning to put $200 right now for my Roth IRA. Since I have little to none investing experience, I tried asking RB for help. I selected medium risk and medium return, as well as keeping cash stable plus growing it over time. Right below is the list of the EFTs they recommended. Is it a good recommendation, or should I wait and do more research? IVV • US large cap stocks 36% BND - US bonds 23% VEA • Developed markets 14% VWO • Emerging market stocks 6% SPMO • Momentum stocks 6% VB • US small cap stocks 5% VONG • US growth stocks 5% QUAL • US quality stocks 5% p.s. I know that I shouldn't let anyone make any investment choice for me, but I have no idea where to start for learning which stocks or index to pick out.

Big-Grip

I've been looking at S&P 500 index funds such as FNILX, VOO, SPY, IVV, SWPPX, VFIAX, and FXAIX. I've also been looking at world stock ETFs like VT. At the core of my misunderstanding is what is the difference between individual S&P 500 indexes? Aside from different brokers and slightly different expense ratios. For example: As I write this, FNILX is $17.77 (0 exp ratio), and VOO is $462.20 (.03 exp ratio). They both have similar, if not identical, holdings yet are drastically different prices. Expense ratios aside, is FNILX a better buy because it has a much lower cost "per share" or do the prices here not matter because we're only looking for % increase as a goal?Is it even logical to think "I should buy FNILX because it's roughly $17 and may grow to $500 versus buying VOO because it's already almost $500 and is probably near its ceiling for growth?" Also, why the dramatic price differences for the same holdings?

Fancy-Fish-3050

No. If you got audited it would also be pretty obvious you were trying to be sneaky too so it seems like that might result in another fine. You could sell something and buy another thing that was similar but not substantially identical. For example if you had a loss on the S&P 500 you would probably be okay selling the S&P 500 and immediately buying VV the Vanguard Large Cap Index since it does not track the S&P 500. I do not think you would be okay selling VOO and buying IVV though since those both track the S&P 500. Disclaimer: I am not a tax guy but have done my taxes for decades.

VegasBjorne1

After putting aside enough for 6 months of expenses, load-up the maximum allowable every year in a Roth IRA in ETF’s VOO or IVV which have expense fees of only 0.03%. You’ll be a millionaire by the time you’re 65 with all the years you have ahead with the compounding interest.

Putrid_Cry19

Loved your explanation - most people i know just sell the option and take profits, I rarely know anyone who buys the underlying. Lets take the other way round. Lets say I bought a Call on IVV. 520C 04/19. The market is dipping and might dip further. When my Call reaches a negative of the price I paid (Calls+Premium), I lose it all and the position will be auto closed. I am already negative - why would anyone purchase the underlying in this scenario? Would it make any sense to do so?

peterinjapan

SPY was the first index fund and is the most liquid, I believe it’s the most “expensive” but only by a little. VOO is by Vanguard, IVV is by iShares, and Schwab has one too, I forgot what it is. One approach would be to do half one of these S&P funds and 25% in QQQ (or another tech ETF), and 25% in some other strategy that you can stick with. Do NOT try to start buying individual stocks or you will underperform like me.

Big-Today6819

Fund (ticker) 5-year annual returns Expense ratio iShares Core S&P 500 ETF (IVV) 14.5% 0.03% Schwab S&P 500 Index (SWPPX) 14.5% 0.02% Vanguard 500 Index Fund (VFIAX) 14.5% 0.04% Those are the normal 3 for sp500, i don't know if they are available in your country or what one is cheapest for you. Also remember to consider how it's taxed as that also can be weird to each country. Most have a Germany/UK version if you are from EU

fairlyaveragetrader

Too much going on, just by the s&p 500, as cheap as TLT is you might consider 10 or 20% in that. Monthly chart is back to financial crisis levels so you have this generational buying opportunity. Individual stocks pick one or two of your favorites around 5% each so something like 20% TLT, 70% IVV 5% stock one and 5% stock two

Used_Towel8820

Don’t buy SPY. Buy VOO or IVV. They’re the same with much lower fees.

mskamelot

It's matter of time. There's 8T of the money at the money market yielding 5%. and when that goes to 2\~3% or less, they will need to go somewhere & will cause buying stampede on both stonk & T's Position: 2400 shares of TLT @ $90. and 100% of my retirement account in IVV

NativeTxn7

VUAA is an accumulating ETF. The ETFs that the OP is asking about (IVV, VOO, SPY, SPLG) are not. Therefore, any of the ones in question would be a brokerage level decision as to whether the dividends are reinvested automatically or paid as cash into OP's brokerage account.

NativeTxn7

I use SPLG but it's basically the same as VOO, IVV, SPY, or any other low cost ETF that tracks the S&P 500. They all pay distributions out during the year and the expense difference between any of them is non-material. The price is irrelevant, *as long as you're at a broker (like Fidelity, for example) where you can buy partial shares.* Let's say, for example, you have 21 shares of VOO worth approximately $10,000 or you have 165 shares of SPLG worth approximately $10,000, you still have $10,000 worth of an S&P 500 ETF. The number of shares is effectively irrelevant and the key is the amount you have invested. That said, if you're at a broker that only allows whole share purchases, then you can definitely go with the one that has the lowest price to be able to have a little bit less cash drag (though that difference is honestly probably going to be fairly minimal over a 20-30+ year period). Bottom line, SPLG, IVV, VOO, SPY, etc. are all going to be extremely similar and you'll be fine no matter which one you go with.

animositisomina35

Mods asleep, time to pump index funds. FNILX IVV SWPPX VTI DIA

Puzzleheaded-Sense55

Just as an FYI, IVV does better than VOO.

Andrew_Higginbottom

IVV for an example as a low risk investment has had a CAGR of 14.6% per year

Putrid_Cry19

IVV 520c April 5th

Olivia512

>you may assume .027 but markets can crash or markets can rocket up That's why I look at the average return, that's the expected return that should be close to the actual return in the long term. >Swap Yes I agree that swapping is safer and cheaper than waiting 1 day. You meant selling the VOO and buying IVV immediately right? Not Swap as in the derivative contract used by synthetic ETFs.

Olivia512

That's not the assumption I'm making. I'm assuming I will lose 1 day of gain, which averages to 10/365=0.027% at the average SP500 return of 10% annually historically. >Edit: you may be better off swapping a similar instrument at the same sub-second as long as the dividend dates are not the same Hmm yeah that could be even better. I could swap VOO for IVV and vice versa accordingly since they have different ex-dividend dates.

Orbidorpdorp

Did you know that SPY and IVV are correlated tho??111

fungbro2

85% Sp500 etf (VOO or IVV) 15% growth stocks (from sp500)

NativeTxn7

The only reason, IMO, to start a position in SPY over IVV, VOO, or SPLG is if you plan to trade it or use options with it. If you're going to just buy and hold, there is no reason to pay the higher expense ratio of SPY when it's tracking the same index as those other three. If you already have an established position in SPY and it is in a *taxable* account with a decently sized unrealized loss, there would be no reason, IMO, to sell it. Rather I would just leave it there but start adding new money to one of the other S&P 500 ETFs.

Jdornigan

Other than the market being closed today, it is always a good time to buy SPY, or VOO, SPLG, IVV or any S&P 500 fund. In the long run it will go up and you will make money. The indexes prune out companies that no longer are eligible for whatever reason. It may be because a company moves to a different index or because of a merger, so it isn't always a bad sign that a company moves out of an index.

Jdornigan

Other than the market being closed today, it is always a good time to buy SPY, or VOO, SPLG, IVV or any S&P 500 fund. In the long run it will go up and you will make money. The indexes prune out companies that no longer are eligible for whatever reason. It may be because a company moves to a different index or because of a merger, so it isn't always a bad sign that a company moves out of an index.

Andrew_Higginbottom

I just google the ticker with cagr after it and usually get what I need. Here's "IVV CAGR" result https://www.financecharts.com/etfs/IVV/summary/price-cagr

Awkward-Painter-2024

I pulled a few k from IVV when it hit $500... Cause no way its going to keep rising. And now it's $520+... ETFS almost never drop more than 10%... But let's say I get a 10% drop when it hits $550... Ooh great!! I get to buy back in at $500! 🤡

papakong88

What you have observed is “tracking error”. On 3/28/24, SPX closed up 0.11% and this is how the major ETFs closed. The value inside the parenthesis is the after-market value. SPY: -0.02%(-0.02%) IVV: +0.01%(+0.19%) VOO: -0.06%(+0.07%) SPLG: +0.01%(+0.67%) Read the following article for an explanation of tracking error. https://www.fidelity.com/learning-center/investment-products/etf/tracking-error-and-tracking-difference

NutellaHotChocolates

Simple question but I am looking to invest in ASX EFTs on commsec and wondering if anyone has any specific indices they would recommend in particular as well as if I should DCA into one or two of these indexes or diversify into like five or more etc Current EFTs I am considering are - NDQ, IOZ, IOO, IETHI, SYI, IVV, VAS.

Key-Mark4536

Especially with big index funds. The expense ratios for FXAIX (0.015%) and SWPXX (0.02%) are comparable to SPLG (0.02%) and VOO (0.03), and they all track the same thing.  I would say though that some fund *companies* seem to rely on client inertia or perhaps a captive audience. BSPAX is an iShares S&P index fund and they charge 0.35%. The same company’s exchange traded equivalent (IVV) charges only 0.03%.

McKoijion

> you are on copium if you think buying and transferring DRS shares is “easy” No, I'm talking about gifting shares at a regular brokerage. It's extremely common and simple. People die and leave their shares for their kids and for charities all the time. As for selling shares, it's much simpler to just sell the normal way. But you can do it if you want. It's no more difficult than it is for any large financial institution. > also if you think that a singular hand to hand transaction carries the same weight as an underground marketplace for only billionaire elites to operate in. A million people trading $1 has the same net impact as 1 person trading $1 million. And when you say "billionaire elites" look up the owners of all the stocks in America. It's mostly Vanguard, BlackRock, and State Street. That's us. VOO, IVV, and SPY are S&P 500 index funds with billions of owners around the world. Those are the big financial institutions trading billions of shares in dark pools. I want them to get the cheapest prices possible because that's passed onto us. The whole payment for order flow system directly benefits retail traders like WSB, passive index fund investors like Bogleheads, index fund companies like Vanguard, market makers like Citadel, and fintech companies like Robinhood. It hurts traditional hedge funds like Bridgewater, institutions like the Yale Endowment, pension funds like CalPERS, etc. It also hurts outdated brokerages like Schwab and Fidelity. The most hurt group are the many financial advisors, money managers, and other scam artists who used to get paid to gamble on behalf of regular people.

Inevitable_Ad6868

BlackRock is a massive INDEX fund manager. The vast majority of their assets track indices. Their S&P 500 index ETF (IVV) alone is $439 billion. Where did you get the idea that they are a “hedge fund”?

CollarTrue8919

Diversification is best! Hold some SPY, some VOO, IVV, SPLG, SSO and definitely UPRO. Not financial advice!

desquibnt

Sure. By VOO, VFIAX, FXAIX, IVV, and SPY

GlobalInternet7098

I retired at 59 and mainly invested in IVV and other S&P type funds over the years. Didn't invest in any individual stocks until I retired and already had a mil+ in funds.

ManicCentral

SPY/IVV/VOO is pretty much flat (if not slightly down) today, yet the Canadian ETFs holding the same (ZSP/XUS/VFV) are up .50%. They don’t always move exactly the same; but I’m curious if this is mostly a result of value of the Canadian dollar or something else (it’s down around .6% as of posting this, which I thought would have dropped the etf not increased it).

MattieShoes

No capital gains in retirement accounts, so you could switch any time if you want. Over 30 years, the difference amounts to 1-2% which isn't that significant... But 1-2% of a million plus dollars is still a hefty chunk of change. For brokerage accounts, you can just do something else with future funds. Like I said, not a *huge* deal, but that option is always there. I own IVV and VOO for instance -- same index, same expense ratio, I just happened to pick the other one at some point.

Awkward-Painter-2024

I sold off some IVV at $502 cause, no fucking way it keeps climbing... It's $525 right now. Luckily it was only 5% of my position, but damn... The $475 I imagined myself buying back in at would signal a 10% drop. (Which has happened in ten of the past twenty years.) But uffff, the wait. And what happens if the pullback (of 10%) happens when IVV hits $550? Ooooooh, I get to purchase at $495! You can't time the market...

SirGlass

I do not think this has to do with the mutual fund structure vs the ETF structure I think it has to do with active vs passive management Plenty of MF have lower expense ratios then the lowest ETFs , not that a few basis points matter Schwab/fidelity offer S&P500 index funds at 0.02% or 0.015% or even 0.00% where as VOO/IVV expenses are 0.03%. Again a few basis points will not matter That being said there are also active ETFs that have higher expense rations (ark funds for example) So you cannot just make a broad statement like ETFs have lower expense ratios then Mutual funds, it really depends on the funds

MaryJayWanna

Hello everyone, would like some thoughts on my portfolio! I think maybe I'm too heavy in mutual funds and/or the S&P. (65 shares of IVV ~ 34k) (20 shares of IWM ~ 4k) (130 shares of IWR ~ 11k) (55 shares of VEA ~ 3k) (376 shares of TRPIX ~ 17k) (183 shares of PRUFX ~ 18k) (45 shares of DODFX ~ 2k) (Cash ~ 6k) (Physical gold ~ 2k) (BTC/ETH ~ 10K) Total net worth is in the ballpark of 115k. Thanks in advance!

Exuberant-greed-18

You should put it all into IVV. If you are concerned the market is too hot you can put a portion into various maturity dated US T Bills and DCA into IVV as the T-Bills mature. I think that in 3-5-10years you will look back and wish it was all in IVV. The T Bills will likely beat any HYSA (and you can sell them at any time without penalty.)

MattieShoes

Yeah. You lose ~0.09% a year to overhead with SPY, vs 0.03% with VOO or IVV. That's trivial over the course of a few years, but over decades, it stacks up. Over 30 years, you might be looking at a 20% difference.

PalindromeHannah1771

My wife and I are fortunate in that we chose not to have children which enabled us to save a lot more than we would have otherwise. And although I did not start investing in a 401(k) until I was about 35 (I'm now nearly 75 and quite healthy), I did start studying investing before I ever had two nickels to rub together. I always stuck with broad-market ETFs (or their predecessors, mutual funds), and relied on time and compound interesting to do the rest. (If you don't know the Rule of 72, you should.) Even though our combined income never exceeded 100,000/year, today we are quite comfortable with assets around 1.4 million and growing every year. It takes a bit of discipline, a lot of steady hard work (employment), and putting your faith and trust in the American economy which is still the powerhouse of global growth. And it really helps not to do anything too stupid, like concentrating all your investments in your own company's stock or blowing a huge wad on a wedding or an over-the-top vacation or car you can't afford. And you can't live on credit. Although I have a Fidelity Visa card that I use for daily expenses (and inventory for my home business), I pay it off every month in full--sometimes 2 or 3 times a month. I get cash back every month, not stupid points or store credits. We paid our house off more than 20 years ago and keep it up. My major investments long-term have been Fidelity Contrafund FCNTX, IVV (S&P 500 ETF), Vanguard Dividend Growth VDIGX mutual fund, and FSMAX Fidelity Extended Market Index Fund. I spend about an hour a day learning about and studying investing, and I exercise regularly, eat healthy, don't drink or smoke (any more), and run several times a month (300+ miles a year). I stay active mentally as well by reading, language learning (I'm up to seven), and still singing as a soloist. My mother lived to be 100 so I am playing the long game here.

SirGlass

VOO/SPY/IVV/SPLG are all S&P500 index funds Their is no reason or benefit to hold multiple funds, I guess there is no real drawback either However holding a bunch of funds is not diversity , it really depends on the underlying holdings. Adding more funds could potentially make you less diversified For example if you held Portfolio 1- 100% VTI Portfolio 2 - 25% VTI, 25% QQQ, 25% VOO, 25% VUG What is the more diversified portfolio 1 is, QQQ/VOO/VUG are holdings are all ready inside VTI , you are actually just concentrating your holding to large cap and tech by adding those funds, you are less diversified

Select_Screen_285

Sold the IVV at 518.50 (yes ivv not spy... i pull up to the scene with my ceiling missing, sold the OXY at 63. Not bragging, just in awe that Somehow for the first time in my life I exited around what I thought would be the top for the day and was correct. Just gonna let the NVDA 3/22 1100c die in its sleep since I'm a crackhead and didn't sell on That Friday when it was touching God. Holding the 10 shares until the split if it happens. NVO 6/21 145c might be about to pay off. But I don't know what to do next. Suggestions and criticism welcome if presented in a flirty and sexual manner.

helpwithsong2024

Why not 100% IVV? You're 18, you got nothing but time.

vimomancer

Looks a bit complicated but if it's automated I guess it's fine. Here are some points I want to make: * All of the stocks in SPMO are already in IVV, and SPMO has a higher expense ratio; I'd just turn SPMO into IVV. * IVV and VONG are 61% similar for the top holdings. The few differences have such little money invested that it is insignificant in your overall portfolio. I would turn VONG into a dedicated small cap or international ETF (VB, VEA, VWO) if you want more risk. * Similar thing with QUAL, but since I am biased towards simplicity, I would turn this into more IVV. * Not sure if BMD is a typo, but I'm assuming it's BND. You are you and have a long term investing horizon so I don't think bonds make sense right now. I would turn that into more IVV. Those changes would make your portfolio look something like: IVV 63%, VB 14%, VEA 16%, VWO 7% -- 77% U.S. and 23% International stock

MattieShoes

IVV or VOO. No reason to use SPY unless you want to sell covered calls.

httmper

I see that logic IVV = .03% IJK = .17% IJR = .06 IWC = .60 While ITOT is .03% Do you think ITOT is to heavily weighted to large cap and not enough mid/small cap?

Sir_Toadington

>Fidelity, Vanguard, or Schwab The gist of it is don't overthink it. Presumably, whichever brokerage you go with is one who is going to be in charge of holding your assets for a long period of time (yes, you can transfer brokerages but it can be somewhat of a pain), presumably until you die. Generally, whoever you trust to hold your money you want to be as boring as possible. That's the three I listed. Robinhood is not boring, in fact it's the opposite (I've never even heard of the other two). Robinhood is designed to make investing look visually appealing, almost like a gam(e/bling). It's not a coincidence RH is the most commonly featured screenshot over in WSB. RH also offers fewer services than any of the three I mentioned. >Buy VOO There a tonne of low-cost indices that track the 500. VOO, SPY, IVV are the big three. You can really pick any of them and it not be a bad choice. VOO is known to have the lowest (or tied for lowest) expense ratio (how much you pay per year to the fund to keep it running) of all of them. It is 0.03% I believe. SPY is 0.09%. IVV is 0.03%

BoonSchlapp

IVV!

_blk_swn_

Advisor here, but one that specializes in portfolio management: the dude is running a very risky strategy. Sure it’s great now, but there needs to be more situational awareness taken into context here. Like what are her needs/goals? It doesn’t make sense to solve a problem with a bazooka when a knife is just as effective with less collateral damage. My recommendation would be to sit down with the guy and ask him if he would be willing to cut a check and compensate you for the difference if he is refusing to de-risk the portfolio and there is a decline. A lot of these advisor think their geniuses, but a good advisor understands that the market has entered into ponzi dynamics. He should atleast be open to removing profits/initial investment and putting funds into something more in her risk profile. Note: type of account does matter here. If gains are short term and it’s in a taxable account, that could be a reason for hesitation around selling. In that case, a plan for tax harvesting should be made. I’d also be hesitant of putting money into any index funds, unfortunately they have become more and more concentrated in these large market cap companies. SPY/IVV for example has roughly a 35-40% weighting between 5 companies. And they are also looking like they are running out of steam. A lot of advisors have also been sold on the index fund pitch, but when you are in a situation where 5 companies can wreck an entire market if there is a sell off, you have to move into the market more precariously. If I were you, I’d start interviewing advisors and getting other opinions, run a portfolio analysis, see which advisors are not saying the same thing as the rest of the echo chamber. Currently the big pitches I’ve been seeing is: -index funds are good, just throw in that and you’ll be fine. (Over-concentration risk becomes an inadvertent issue here though) -tax free income in retirement through Roth annuities. (Great idea, however the fees go northward of 8% in the first year, and 2.5% in following years. So ultimately depends if your mom has longevity risk). -inflation is slowing so stocks and bonds should be good. (There’s a thing called the base effect in statistics. You can google it. Advisors are mainly sales folk and not really portfolio managers and either aren’t aware of it or just echo whatever their firm tells them. Inflation is kicking back up, so further diversification in physical commodities is necessary).

Fit-Cartographer9634

Generally I recommend paying down credit card debt or anything else that has really high (10%+) interest rates. After that invest in shares via mutual or exchange traded funds. I generally recommend investing in individual stocks only if you really enjoy investing and like spending time researching companies. Buying a fund that passively follows an index like the US S&P 500 (a listing of the 500 largest US stocks by market capitalization) usually does at least as well as most people can manage buying individual stocks. IVV and SPY are two funds that can be purchased in a (US) brokerage account, and I would assume you could buy them from European accounts as well.

JordyNelson87

The Reddit consensus is always broad market ETF's (VTI, ITOT) or S&P 500 focused (VOO, SPY/SPLG, IVV). Growth oriented would have been the right call going back a ways, but it may be overheated. >maximize my chances of making a significant profit More risk = higher chance of significant profit, more chance of it blowing up in your face My vote is just throw it in SPLG, set and forget.

ArgyleTheChauffeur

*but is it possible to start investing with 100$?* Only if purchasing fractional shares and holding long term. You can open an account at Fidelity and buy based on how much money you want to invest. Look at IVV for long term - the Fidelity site shows that it one of the fractional share options - there may be others). Just pick that (or similar S&P 500 ETF) and keep putting money into that. [https://www.fidelity.com/trading/fractional-shares](https://www.fidelity.com/trading/fractional-shares) Here is IVV performance [https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/IVV/performance](https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/IVV/performance)

EvergreenLiveOak

I think this is the correct answer, and I like that way of thinking. I would shift the money to an index ETF, such as VOO, SPLG, or IVV (S&P500). You should see good growth in your Roth with that in place. But keep learning. There may be another idea you want to try. And if you're anything like me, you'll keep learning that the S&P500 Index fund is the most consistent way to grow wealth long term. Also, don't forget to DCA, DRIP, and compound your way forward.

EvergreenLiveOak

Yep, if there is no discount for your ESPP, I would not invest in that. Rather, setup your direct deposit to go to two places, your personal checking and your brokerage account. Start sending to your brokerage the amount that you would send to the ESPP. Then setup auto-investing into an Index based ETF, like VOO, SPLG, or IVV (S&P500). There will be more variability than your HYSA, but that will set you up for long term growth. Every time you get a pay raise, bump that direct deposit up by 1%. DCA, DRIP, and time with compounding interest will create some wealth for you.

nick_nasty_nice

IVV QQQ IJR IJH EZU VTV SCHF BND more heavily weighted towards IVV and QQQ with everything else just about even.

Key-Mark4536

Definitely second the recommendation to read as much as you can. In the meantime our typical recommendation would be an index fund like IVV, FSKAX, or VT. That way you’re not hitching your fortunes to any one hastily-chosen company, but to the overall growth of US or global businesses. Plus the fees are super low, like 0.03% of your balance per year. Some people start there and end there; it’s a really low maintenance approach, which is nice if you don’t like digging through financial data. Also you’ll do [better than most people](https://www.cnbc.com/2024/01/09/why-picking-stocks-is-a-terrible-idea-for-young-investors.html) who try to pick their own stocks.

MattieShoes

Honestly it mostly just *looks* messy. If you're saving and investing money, you're so far ahead of the game it kind of doesn't matter what it looks like. I've got IVV (S&P 500) dating back to the days of trade fees, when IVV was free to trade but VOO cost money, VTI (total market, which is mostly S&P 500), QQQ (something like 85 of the 100 stocks are in the S&P 500), VUG (large cap growth, so half the S&P 500 plus a bit), VTV (large cap value, so the other half of the S&P 500 plus a bit)... Huge overlap, but it's fine... It's just unsightly but I like my mess :-) So if you just started, you probably have not that much money there, and not for very long, so will be pretty trivial to clean up. Or hell, even leaving it messy is probably fine in the end :-)

RandomAcc332311

Just buy a heavily diversified index fund with a low cost. VOO, VFV, SPY, IVV, VTIAX, VTMGX, etc. etc. With this, you own a small portion spread across tons of different companies. Diversification is good. Your post maybe implies you're trying to actively trade stocks and just don't. You don't know what you're doing. Hedge funds hire dozens (if not 100s) of some of the smartest minds on the planet, with institutional trading advantages you don't have, and the large majority still don't beat just buying an index fund. Spend your time increasing your earnings and in self-improvement, not trying to be smart in the stock market.

SnS2500

You've got it completely backwards. Besides SPY, there is VOO and IVV and many other S&P 500 funds. On top of that SMCI will be added at about a .55% level to XLK, plus other tech funds based on the S&P500 tech stocks. It will be a huge boon to SMCI to get out of its midcap ghetto and get into the S&P 500... which by the way it will join March 18th, and on the news of that it went up 12% after hours on Friday.

Encode_MVP

You also have to factor in the other SP 500 ETFs. IVV, VOO, and SPLG have almost $1 trillion under management. Then you have numerous Index mutual funds. FXAIX has $373 billion SWPPX has $60 billion. VFIAX has $792 billion. And it’s worth noting that IWM has $67 billion and VTWO has just $8.3 billion.

wanderingmemory

Why don't you just DCA in ~~SPY~~ VOO, IVV, or other S&P 500 funds with lower expense ratios from the very start

Key-Mark4536

You’re coming in at a good time, lots of brokers have cut the basic commissions and fees to zero or close to it. In addition to newer entrants like Robinhood and Webull, established houses like Fidelity and Ameritrade/Schwab (recently merged) charge next to nothing for basic buy & hold investments.  In terms of what to invest in, if you don’t have much to invest and/or don’t have a really good reason to hold a specific company, the best bet is typically an index fund. That more or less means a fund that doesn’t try to hand-pick companies, just buys everything within a certain basic criterion:  - The stocks on the S&P 500, which are more or less the 500 biggest US companies - funds include VOO, IVV, or SPLG - Basically all US stocks - funds include VTI, ITOT, or FSKAX - Basically every stock worldwide - only one comes to mind, VT, but you could accomplish the same by splitting the money across two funds, one US and one not, like SWTSX & SWISX.  (Side note, the reason for multiple funds using the same approach is basically different companies. It shouldn’t matter a ton who you pick.) The benefits to this approach are:   1. You’re not attaching your fortunes to any one company, but to the overall idea that companies will keep inventing and selling things.  2. As a result you don’t have to monitor things that closely; the fund adjusts as companies grow and shrink, appear and disappear.  3. These funds charge very low fees. Of the funds I listed, I believe SWISX has the highest fees at 0.06% per year of your balance. 

Internal-Homework

I went from 0-50k in about 3 years when I got my first tech job (age 30) while living in a cheap apartment with my girlfriend (now wife), making decent money and basically not spending much. I think I had a lot of GE at the time. That went into a down payment on a house, which is worth a LOT more 10 years later. I probably didn't have 100k in liquid assets until 10 years later after putting $ into S&P index funds in my IRA and 401k - I maxed out my contributions for the past 8 years (so \~18k/yr). I did get some $ from my parents for renovations on the house. I mostly bought BRK.B and IVV (S&P ETF, equivalent to VOO or SPY), those always did better than whatever clever investment strategies I came up with over the years.

Internal-Homework

But more seriously? As someone 10+ years older than you, IVV, VOO, or more aggressive - QQQ. Check back in 10 years, DO NOT TOUCH. I re-learn this lesson every 10 years or so.

GlobalInternet7098

Winning. Long MSFT since 2022. Bought NVDA at $670 recently. Also have IVV SP 500 fund, IETC fund, IWY, a little cash and bonds. All are on fire somehow at the same time. Good luck.

GlobalInternet7098

IVV IShares Core S&P 500 ETF

ddaanniieellee

I think I will just stick to my ETFs for now haha. I just have FOMO over everyone’s gains. I have IVV, SPTM, SPYG, and VOO.

newsjunkee

That's what I'm doing for the most part. Not VTSAX, but SCHB, SCHV, SCHD, IVV. Most of my money is in those. I have a few individual stox like JPM and SO (which I have owned for maybe 30 years). Also VEA to give me some international exposure, but the bulk of my money is in broad based ETFs. And yes, over time I have cleaned up

multiple4

I think you're being a little dismissive of people seeking better returns. "The market" is a vague term that means different things to different people. Are we talking about VTSAX? VT? VTI? VOO? Because those are very different funds that people refer to as "the market" Just the obvious example, VTSAX has 10 year returns of 12%. That's really good. IVV has 10 years returns of 12.5%. If you invest $50k and give it 30 years, that 0.5% is the difference between $1.8M and $2.1M Now compare VTSAX to VT, which is an actual total market fund which includes international. It has 10 year annualized returns of 8.5% You don't have to go 50/50 semiconductors and biotech to beat the total market. There are a ton of ways to invest in "the market" which are proven to do slightly better than the total market

Zyoneatslyons

IVV baby.

bbmak0

I just DCA into ETFs, VOO or IVV because I don't have a crystal ball to tell when is the very top. S&P500 could run to 6000, and nobody really knows.

spaceheat1154

If you want to see how options trading can go incredibly wrong, google “GUH guy” and read his story. For my first purchases at your age, I would split it 40% QQQ, 30% IVV, 20% IYY, 10% IWM, 5% Cash. Then read some books about investing before you start picking stocks. A pretty easy one is “One up on Wall Street” by Peter Lynch

EvergreenLiveOak

I'm with Fidelity and enjoy their interface. I'd pick a fund that tracks the S&P500. If you can't beat it, join it. You can do VOO, IVV, SPY, SPLG or others. All should be available to purchase on Fidelity. I personally do SPLG. One quick warning though. You mention that you are 30 and I'm assuming you will retire at 65 giving you a 35 year window. The S&P500 WILL go down during that period, and that downtime may happen right at the start. That said, the best asset you have right now is time to take advantage of compounding. And don't forget to DCA into the account as you can. I've not seen any hidden fees with Fidelity. And the funds expense is calculated in when they calculate the NAV, so it it's relatively transparent to you. Happy investing.

time-BW-product

An s&p500 index fund. SPY, IVV, or VOO. They are all about the same. I would pick SPY. Everything in there. Don’t play sectors, market cap, or international. You are already getting all that exposure in the S&P 500. One of the biggest mistakes people make is over diversifying.

RomanosAK

IVV is the shit

11SeVeN11

Stop trading. If you ever get itchy fingers, only buy a broad-based low-cost index fund and NEVER sell it, e.g. QQQ or SPY/IVV. ​ Warren Buffett's two rules of investing: \#1 Never lose money \#2 Never forget rule one ​ Be glad you learned this lesson when you only had $20k to lose. This would be a tough lesson if you only learnt it when you had $100k or even $1m. It's almost effortless to get $20k back. Go find a job and start earning some money.

NativeTxn7

It's an interesting question I'm dealing with myself at the moment on MSFT. I have an individual position in MSFT that by itself represents about 7.3% of my total portfolio. When account for MSFT in the various ETFs and MFs I hold across the portfolio that number is right about 10%. I've been grappling with decreasing the individual holding some (so that it represents about 5% of the portfolio rather than 7.3%), particularly since I am adding at least some every paycheck by way of mutual fund in my portfolio. If I do, I would likely move it over to one of my other ETF holdings. It's not that I don't believe MSFT will continue to grow, it's boiling down to whether I think MSFT alone will grow more than IVV, IJH and/or AVUV (the three main US ETFs I have in the account) moving forward. At this point, I am not sure what I am going to do, but for the most part, I would say that 10% is probably a cap for me on any one holding's representation.

False_Profit_of_WSB

Me too,I didn't want to be all VOO like a fucking rubics cube, so I went 50/50 VOO/IVV for that there safe diversifications. 

SultecGold

If you're using Stake, I imagine you're Australian. Avoid the US domiciled ETFs like VOO or VTS because it's a nightmare in terms of doing your Australian taxes as it is foreign income. Blackrock's IVV (listed on the ASX) is the exact same as VOO in that they both track the S&P 500.

RubiksPoint

Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on your expenses! Unfortunately, I'm definitely not qualified to give any specific advice. I can you give a few things to consider though. ​ \- 9.5% is a really high interest rate. It's around the average historical market returns. \- Knowing that you might need cash in 3-4 years might change your risk tolerance. You might want to consider how much you could potentially lose in the market and whether or not that's acceptable to you. \- S&P 500 ETFs (VOO, IVV, SPLG) are a basket of 500 stocks, so the diversification is built in. \- Picking individual stocks can be lucrative, but you really need to know what you're doing to have consistent returns. I mostly pick individuals for fun with a very small portion of my portfolio.

AffectionateBat8262

Well, that's great you're mature enough to think about these things at your age. You have a several-years head start compared to my younger self. AMD can be a little cyclical. It's down some today, so you could start nibbling. But I'm your position, I recommend looking at index funds, like IVV, s&p 500 index fund, or iwm, the Russell 2000 small cap index fund. Or bigger companies like msft or Meta. Meta is relatively cheap in terms of p/e.

jeopardy_loser

VOO has a lower expense ratio than SPY. IVV is the same as VOO (.03) so they are interchangeable

isaltbox

I'm curious why VOO and not SPY / IVV?

RubiksPoint

For the most part, it doesn't matter. Since they're all holding the same things, their expense ratio (ER) is the only thing I look at. I usually see VOO recommended. VOO has an ER of 0.03%. IVV has an ER of 0.03%. SPLG has an ER of 0.02% but is slightly newer and smaller (in AUM) than the others.

Betterin2024

I dont know your age but it sounds like you arent risk adverse. You probably arent the type to throw it all on one high flying stock and ‘hope’ it doubles either. Here is what I would do: Over the next 6 or 12 months, purchase 3 or 4 ETF’s. I recommend IVV which is the S&P 500 index, QQQ which is the too 100 stocks of the nasdaq and will give you diversified exposure to msft, aapl, nvda, amzn, meta and all the other high flyers, and them maybe an etf that invests in large cap stocks that pay dividends like Schwab US Dividend equity ETF (schd). This invests in large cap stocks that pay dividends and has an average yield around 3.5pcnt. For your 4th bucket, you could look at a mid cap etf, small cap etf or even an international etf. Or, pick an individual stock that you think will be around 20 years from now and make that your 4th bucket. Apple, Microsoft, Nike, Disney, etc. By investing into these 4 buckets over the next 6 to 12 months, you arent timing the market. If a pullback comes in the next 6 month (and it will), you would be buying more shares during those months. Also, w a high yield savings account that you currently have, the money that isnt invested will be earning some interest before you put it to work in the market. Lastly, I hate taxes w a passion. If there is a legal way to not pay taxes, I choose that route. Use the Roth! if you put 6500 in a roth for 2023 (you have until april 15) and put 7000 in it for 2024 (I am assuming you are under age 50), That is 13,500 you have already paid taxes on. Let’s assume that you get a return of 10 pcnt for approximately 22 years. That 13,500 will be worth approximately 108,000 THAT YOU WILL NOT HAVE TO PAY TAXES ON. If that 13,500 is in a regular, taxable account, you will pay tax on it.

shelbytattoos

I’m 26 and just opened a roth IRA which i maxed out for 2023 with 6500. I was previously advised to invest some of that in IVV, so I was going to do 70%, however shares for that are $500 a piece, whereas shares for other S&P500 tracking ETFs are lower- Is it ever advisable to wait buying into something like this or is it more like the sooner the better? Would it be advisable to buy a cheaper index tracking ETF, or should i go with one like IVV that tends to outperform others over the long term, and disregard the high price?

RubiksPoint

SPY, VOO, and IVV are all ETFs tracking the returns of the S&P 500 index. Depending on whether you're in a tax-advantaged account and whether or not you have unrealized gains on these positions, it might be worth combining those allocations into a single, low-cost S&P 500 ETF. VOO and IVV both have expense ratios (ER) of 0.03% and might be a better choice than SPY (ER of 0.09%). SPLG is also an S&P 500 fund with an ER of 0.02%.

KripspyKracka

I've been a fan of IVV (S&P ETF) and have had 30% of my portfolio for the past 10 years

Talimebannana

Any advice to a financial illiterate. I’ve made a two small option trades. One worked $35 up. All I have is IVV about 1,700. Why I stay away from options. All I do is $150 a week into IVV

Talimebannana

I don’t see IVV or VOO

SophisticatedFarmer

Maybe invest 9k in one of these VOO/IVV/QQQ. Then take 1k and start learning how to pick individual stocks for yourself. Or, take that 1k and play a little riskier ETF like the XBI. Just a thought. Good luck👍🏼

Phuffu

VOO and IVV are essentially identical. Flip a coin.

TheQuilledCoon

Hold - IYK, IYF, IVV Buy - RUM (down 6% today should bump up 10% over weekend)

1UpUrBum

That is the entire basis for price. Money flowing in or out drives the price. But it's not just paycheck money, it's everything. It includes things like Japanese selling US equity and buying JGBs (Japan bonds), everything. So it's kind of hard to calculate. https://etfdb.com/etf/IVV/#fund-flows There are also ETF end of month portfolio adjustments. That one is a little fuzzy because they finally smarted up and spread it out a bit. So others wouldn't front run their adjustments and skin them for few cents per share.

bdh2067

Not to quibble, but I’ve owned GnTX for a decade and it’s consistent lagged the index. I’ve made money but would have made more just putting the money in SPY or IVV. It’s a solid, stable, growing company - I’ve never understood why Wall Street doesn’t give it more respect or attention

guyreddit_hello

Hello Community, need suggestion, I think I am late in investing but currently I am 45 yrs old and have 50K cash which I want to invest in my taxable account for next 10 to 20 yrs. I have Fidelity Roth IRA and HSA which I opened recently, holding some FXAIX, FSKAX and some SCHD.. I have some tolerance built in Any suggestion on ETFs for my taxable account investing? Since I have Fidelity, I was thinking IVV/ ITOT (over Vanguard) and/or SCHD/DGRO/SCHG ...may be QQQ or even JEPI Thank you in advance.

Public_Perspective42

Fidelity is better than Schwab. I’d open a Roth IRA. Hopefully you have a 401k through employer that you’ve been contributing to. Max out the Roth and if you want to invest beyond that do it in a 401k (if you don’t already). You have a long time before retirement so you should have a higher risk tolerance. $IVV is a good S&P 500 fund (the S&P is the easiest and best option for a novice to invest in). I promise you, no one here is going to recommend crypto, this isn’t that reddit. Look up and do research on DCA vs lump sum investing and decide what’s for you. I recommend DCA as market is at an all time high right now. Good luck